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After pulling the plow and disc, the 520H works in the horse manure.

That's some fun stuff! I plan on making a garden this year. I'll be honest, I don't have all that much of an idea on what I am doing I'd just say don't take any pointers or examples from me! , but hey, we all have to start some where! I got some video and some pictures. I'll upload some pics here at a later date, but here's the video(s) that my dad shot of me! Hope you all enjoy!

keeping the motor and inside of the guards clean will do more for you than cutting holes in the belt guard

I bet the mid grader blade has only been used a couple times! The tiller has hardly seen any use either!

One of the best videos I came across in a long time..... fascinating Click here: New Tab

I had a few of the kids out today to play

A while back I posted an old blurry pic of my grandpa's horse hoping someone could identify the model. I was able to find a better pic, but I still don't know enough about them to recognize the model. Hopefully one of you will know what it is. The first pic is the original one I posted, the other pics were taken in the early 70's.

Ya gotta watch those guys with the whiskers! You never know what's hiding in the hedge rows!

Paint the wheels, have the tires mounted, leaving the air out. By leaving out air, masking will be much easier for touch up. When finished add air.

nice vid, maybe next time you go plowing sand the mouldboard first so it nice and shiny bare metal, the soil will roll better that way, and maybe go a bit slower oh and next time start in the middle and work round. Koen

I don't know what rules/laws are different on your side of the pond.......... I just found out yesterday that if I am a member ($10 fee) to one of the area clubs, I am automatically covered at their shows....Otherwise, you have to have $500.000 liability insurance......For $10, I am now a card carrying member!

1985 417A with 48" SD

What we are dealing with is trying to get is Efficient Heat Transfer as Ed and Kyle mentioned Dirt and Blocked Fins grass clippings or whatever is the NO #1 thing that causes heat build up. You can do all the Lover cutting fabrication or whatever you want and that stuff is miniscule and secondary if you cant get the air across these metal parts. After your engine is clean Yes by all means vent the Belt Guard with a louver. I have delt with Heat Transfer for 36 Years now as an HVAC contractor And the main thing we stress is Equipment being Clean whether it being a Condenser Coil, Evaporator Coil, A Blower, Or heat exchanger. Any part that comes in contact with heat that needs to be transferred away internally or externally needs to be clean these same principals apply to our engines. All the Engine tins that direct airflow over the heads need to be secure and in place along with the Gasket around the oil filter. ~Duke

At the end of my formation as an industrial mechanic, I had to plan and build a ball sorting machine. seen here is my solution. Specifications were: max 3 kg, max 250x250x250 mm and at a turn a ball should be sorted by a lift.The diameter of the balls are 4, 5 and 6mm. The graduation project I have already passed, unfortunately I do not know yet my points.

I am on a quest for an enclosed trailer. I started looking for a 6x14 but was told 5 tractors would be too much weight. So next was a 7x14 tandem axle, I figure I can get 5 in, for a couple hundred more I could go 7x16 and get 6 plus attachments. Main use will be for storage, also going to shows with a place to sleep. Most used trailers here are overpriced or pretty rusty. Confusion is starting to set in, want to do it right the first time. Show me what you are using. Thanks Tom

This is my hauler/storage trailer that I fixed up last year. I added the loft style bed and it works nice. I am able to get a few tractors in under it when hauling and then I can drop it down for sleeping. It originally had barn doors but I fabricated the fold down. I am able to haul 4 round hoods in it with no problem.

Isn't manure is it?

Looks good Ed! Earnin its keep for sure. We are still way to wet in my part of the State.

that B-80 looks at home there

It is a 1962 machine with that front axle. and has Tecumseh elect. start engine so only thing it can be is a 552 minor correction being a 62 it would be a Lauson engine but same thing as a Tecumseh for the most part 62 was the last year for the Lauson name, and the head lights are not factory

I will be there! This will be my first time to the WHCC. cantwaitcantwaitcantwait! Now, to decide what to bring......

Looks like it spring break at the frat house.

Hey Guys, Finally got started on "freshening" up my 1045 pulling tractor that my Grandpa built for me close to 10 years ago! I stopped pulling with it several years ago and have no plans to pull for awhile, but it is still very special to me and I have decided I am going to make it into a show/parade tractor. With that being said, I am going to take the next month or 2 getting it all fixed up and into it's "show clothes" as it has been in storage for awhile and is showing some age. My goal is to have it ready for a cancer fundraiser tractor parade on June 14th. I want to sand blast and powder coat it, get new decals, new (and bigger) tires, change out the pulleys to get a little more speed, new exhaust stack, beef up the front end a bit (mostly steering), and some other things. The engine will need new gasket's and it is making a knocking noise so we are trying to figure out what is causing that (That is why there is a pic of the torn apart engine). I am also not going to tell grandpa about it now so I can surprise him and he can see it when it is all done! Here are some pics of my progress so far:

You gotta crack an egg to make an omlette. You got out there and did it, that's what matters. Good luck with your garden and thanks for posting the video.

Here is a picture, I had a few of my kids out today

I sandblasted mine , primed , then painted . Granted my tires were off .

That is a great picture...I know a few guys that look like that... For one...Lane's brother Dave...dead ringer. Same mother...different fathers.

At least...it is not an all SEC final...this should be a good game Monday night. and Michigan was over-rated.

My disguise didn't work - you found me !! I was hanging back - you guys were doing great with the discovery process. Measuring AC between the two AC terminals on the regulator will tell you the health of the stator. Anything above 32 volts at full throttle will charge a battery Two of the terminals are shorted together INTERNALLY inside the regulator. B+ and one of the AC terminals are physically connected inside the reg. It may be important to know which two are connected just for the sake of clarity for future troubleshooting. In the Kohler regs, it's the two terminals stacked on each other. I'm not sure about which two on the Onan style regs. Ed, if you know which two are connected, post it here. Let's say we use an orientation of "lookibg down on the reg, terminals pointing toward the person making the measurement". The image below is what we confirmed as proper wiring of the charge and tach circuits some time ago. The question of why DC and AC exist together on the B+ relates to what the tachometer uses as a reference to make its measurement. The Tach will block any DC signal due at its input as it only senses variation in AC voltages, not DC voltage levels. The DC voltage drop you measure thru the tach is most likely from protection diodes inside the tach housing. The clipper circuit acts as a signal limiter for the incoming 30 + AC signal and cuts the 30 VAC signal "off at the knees" when it exceeds 5 volts + or - . The clipped signal is then fed to the circuitry for the RPM measurement. . http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/6.html The tach uses 12 volts DC for powering the internal circuits and uses the FREQUENCY of the stator AC output as it's "signal" to be measured. Remember , the FREQUENCY of the AC signal, not the VOLTAGE level of the AC. In your particular case, if the tins of the engine are grounded properly and the reg grounded properly to the tins, replace the regulator. They do seem to suffer frequent failures than the Kohler style regs.

You got the job done! All in all the garden looks good! I plowed for the 1st time last year, and I learned that tire chains really make a difference for traction. You may need additional weight too. Free up the plow adjustments and that may help keep the plow down in the ground. I have been looking for a disc....lucky you!

Come on Kelly, your snow is gone ( for now)

Havn't mowed with it yet but I built a round hood from parts, basicly a 753 but has a NEW 8hp in it, it plows and blows snow good, pulls the roller with ease, hope this year to get the 36" deck finished up took about 5 decks to find good parts. Here it is in winter gear

I bought one of these wagons about 7 years ago, well made and versatile. http://www.ohiosteel.com/farmers.html

Thanks Scott. I appreciate the update. As all have said you are doing a great job with these kids and seeing the girls in there getting there hands dirty makes it extra special.... Keep up the GREAT work!

Hi Neil thanks for the info most shows ask for it now as you know. I am just filling a form out now for the Great dorset steam fair and they are asking for my insurance docs . I have will some insurance by mid week as this is my dream place to show at. Thanks once again.

Thanks Martin I probably won't be catching up with the powder coater for some time yet, but will pass on his thoughts when I do. I think it would definitely help to weather the galv for some time, years even. I am not fussed about the look of this deck, it is for work. I have a really good one that will be powder coated and restored, but probably not used. I had some small parts zinc plated a few years back and was disappointed with how quickly they faded. It was also expensive. I am lucky with my current 520 rebuild that most of the original zinc plating is still in good condition. Bolts are all new zinc. I was hoping to fit the decal for the choke / throttle panel this weekend, but ran out of time. Terry made up the new decal and I got it last week. Will update the thread on that one when I get a bit more done.

The ROTARY mower will only work up to 15mph. Just put a sharp straight blade on that thing and it will cut grass probably BETTER than the rotary at 100mph!

Unfortunately I don't use my horse for grass cutting duties. I only have .5 acre and the mower I use is way overkill anyways. I got this thing (hydro 36" walk behind) for a SERIOUS deal and its not a looker but mechanically perfect. It just is not fun trying to pull-start a 14hp Kawasaki when its below 50 F outside. The horse will get sweeping, dethatching, aerating, and cart duty in the summer.

To play in the dirt and work the new Horse.

same thing I have been using for a few years a 246H with 42" deck, but I may put the 48" I picked up on it this year, don't look this nice any more but still does the job, not bad for $150

I put a metal fender pan off I think a 300 series on my 81 C-145. Straight bolt up!

Always hangin' tough here... regardless of which way the weather decides it wants to go.

At the height of my collecting I had 17 tractors at one time and they were all in either my workshop or garage. I probably have had over 50 in total. I refused to let them sit outside in the weather. It got to a point that I could no longer do any work in my shop or get anything in or out of the garage without moving tractors around. That's when I knew I would have to solve my addiction problem. It killed me do it but I started to sell off my prize tractors. As time went by, it got easier and I realized that because of my property (house is built into a hillside and a very small yard) I could no longer have a collection. I'm kind of an all or nothing guy so I decided that collecting for me was over. It sucks because I really enjoyed it especially the hunt! I even sold off my beloved Senior (but that's a whole other story I don't care to think about!). I'm down to just 2 now. My first RJ which I put 6 months or restoration into and a lot of money I'll never get back and my diesel Lawn Ranger which I have a ton of hours into and just love! I won't ever sell these as I bring them to the local shows and tractor parades. I sometimes give some guys (especially SteveBo) a hard time when they buy another tractor but in reality I'm just depressed and jealous that I can't do the same. I could but I think it was worse for me when I did have more. I think for now I have found the best balance. Just my $.02

i think just by looking at your pic you have narrow rims on there. the tire you say is 6.50 wide and they look like they are on a narrow rim by the way the bead/sidewall is pulled in. you can also measure them to know for sure. heres two of my tractors, both with 16 x 6.5-8 front tires. the first one is on the wider rims..... the second is on the narrower ones.

Paint looks pretty good now...maybe just reshoot the hood and fender for now.

To compliment what Glen said: Depends on what kind of winter weather you deal with: If you get really slippery slush and ice, you need the metal and low contact patch on the chain to bite through to hard surface. If its mostly powdery then ags work great, you just might need to use a little wheel spin and momentum when things get slick. Chains you use low speed because you have high traction (and it DOES scratch up whatever surface you drive on, and will tear up the grass if you spin even a little) In the spring/summer on the grass Ag's in the rear will do well on all but the most mushy of surfaces where the chains can act a little like paddles adding to the ags to help get you through. I vote tri ribs (or 5 rib, like I like, search "V61") in the front. Ags were designed to help pull (4wd) therefore you dont get as great of turning traction because of the angle of the lugs. Think of the tri-ribs as rudders. They will dig in and turn you any way you want to go. Thats not to say the ags dont work, some guys on here run them and love them, but since its a 2WD tractor, I would vote for the tall ribs.

Use different tires for Winter and for Summer work: • It's smart to have two complete sets of metal wheels & rubber tires if the same tractor works in both seasons. • Winter: IMO, Ag tires with a lot of weight do an excellent job, and with weighted tri-ribs on the front you will have the best for steering & control. With Ags, chains are not really needed, but the extra weight on both the front and rear are essential. • I think the tri-rib rubber would wear a little faster than turf tire, but then you're not using the tri-ribs nearly as much as you would turf tires (less rubber in contact with the ground on tri-ribs equals more wear). • I also agree that 16" would give just a little better control, and your spindles should be OK, but the HD (heavy duty) spindles are much stronger and better, but can cost a lot as you'll need mew metal wheels also. Turf tires work best if they have Chains, 2-link, in the Winter, and in moist turf, - - but avoid soggy mud with any tire, is bad on grass (looks like you have a gravel drive, better for chains). Weight greatly improves traction with any tire style. • Both Ag and Turf would be the same 23"OD original size for the rear, but going to 16" on the front adds 1/2" radius and may be a minor factor on tight turns when mowing. • Smart to up your PSI on all for tires; for Winter 20PSI and Summer 10PSI, (as the cold weather decreases the actual PSI by 2-4#). Lots of older posts and opinions on this subject . . . about 50% pro Ag, and 50% pro-Turf/Chains.

2 Carlisle 23x8.5-12 tru power ag tires with new valve stems. Cost $199.00

search for the duro ag tires for the rear..... i bought these for my son Kents 875. they are duro 23 x 10.50-12 will fit nice on the standard 12 x 7 rims.

Wow what a blast we had tonight during our first field trip. The club loaded up in vehicles and headed northwest to the powder coater. The singing and conversations in the vehicle was very entertaining! Once we arrived we were greeted by Gene Hochstetler and the kids were able to see some of their parts already completed. They were then moved over to another rack that had freshly sandblasted parts hanging from their tractor. Gene was able to explain how the powder is made, what it is composed of, how it is applied, and how the gun magnetizes the powder so it sticks to the parts. After he did a quick demonstration it was then time for each kid to apply the powder themselves. I told them to keep track of which parts they sprayed so that I know who applied it correctly! Once all the parts were covered off they went to the oven for just over 15 minutes. We looked and learned more about the process before our new shiny parts came out of the oven. This is when the kids were able to admire their work. The time flew by and they all seemed to enjoy the experience. I overheard kids saying on the trip back that this was the best field trip ever! It definitely put a smile on my face. The kids looking at some of the parts as soon as we arrived. Looking and learning about the process and which parts they will be spraying. Admiring the parts that were previously done. Applying the powder....... In the oven they go...... Pulling out the finished product...... Checking for quality control...... One final picture with Gene before we said our thank you and good byes. What a great time for the kids and adults. Great memories were made and now to get things back to the club barn and some reassembly will begin. They are definitely excited!