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hey guys, as you know i work for a wheelhorse dealership. i recently transfered to another one of our stores, and in doing so found a huge shelf in the upstairs portion of this place that houses a ton of used wheelhorse parts. i want to get this stuff sold to make room for other things here at this dealership. just curious to see what everyone was interested in seeing me throw up in the classifieds section. or rather what parts are popular among all of you that i can sell on here. im sorry in advance if this post is in the wrong place. i wasnt sure of where to put it all. pm me or let me know here what you guys wanna see sold in the classifieds section. oh yeah i forgot to mention, there is no part numbers on anything so bear with me on this stuff

After 5 months of fighting this. surgery to remove 2 tumors, 7 weeks of radiation . After 6 weeks of chemo that almost killed me. I have been cleared of cancer. I want to thank my friends on here for the support. God bless you

Last week I picked this '96 520-H up for $300 at my local Toro dealer. It had been owned by an electrician and the wiring was a mess! We had to replace the fuse block and sections of the wiring harness. It runs good but it has an exhaust leak. Do you guys think I scored a good deal?

In the past several weeks I've been reading, researching and educating myself on three dimensional printing. This is some crazy stuff. You can literally create objects/parts from a 3D CAD file. Essentially, the printer uses liquified plastic (ABS, polycarbonate and/or various blends) vs. ink as we're used to in conventional printers. So, having a need to re-create some parts I decided to give this a whirl with a company I found and researched online. My first attempt was to re-create a Hiller script emblem for YardHand tractors. I did a good deal of work scanning, photgraphing and taking every concievable measurment known to man to generate a 3D CAD rendering of the original emblem. I then had them professionally printed in a ABS/poly blend and here's the resulting product. The original was cast and chrome plated. I can have these plastic chrome plated if I want - for additional cost of course - or just paint them. But the bigger take-away here is the fact that it can be produced...with a printer! I'm in the process now of gathering specs on a strength poly offered to see if I can build drive gears and pawls for these tractors too. But certainly, this can apply to Horses as well!! Get thinking boys! What else can we make? Let me know.

I think he forgot to tell you the tractor had some trans work done at one time both keys are factory I think a axle was changed out at one time

dennis you live in maine where everything is high.

Last fall I Acquired a 1955 RS-83. It is in terrible shape and has been sitting in a WH Dealership Storage Building for 30 years. After getting her Home and giving it a bath I discovered that the rims are in exceptionally bad shape as is the tires and there seems to be a lot of gaskets that need replacing as the tractor has been leaking and seeping oil all over, and the whole tractor looks like it pretty much needs some attention. After thinking it over for a couple months I have decided to give it the once over and give it a facelift. By the time I get the Tractor Mechanically in shape much of the Patina will be jacked with and how is the tractor going to look with new rubber and fixed up rims? With all things considered the best thing for this one in my opinion would be a Resto. More to come. ~Duke

I started this back in Nov. And just finished it last weekend. I completely disassembled and sandblasted painted and reassembled waiting on deck decals and it will be 100% done.

Looks like a 603 to me...Can anyone tell if there are any incorrect parts on it?

Long awaited, much anticipated...go Duke!

I am not a big fan of restoration on these old girls but I know that you will do it right!! Looking forward to watching the progress.

There is no doubt in my mind that this will be a sharp looking machine when yer done Duke! Mike.............

I'm on the look out for one!

looks good Ken steering wheel is on wrong is all I see

Little hotrod...nice score Wayne.

Looks pretty complete to me...when is that one coming home Ken?

Nice ride Wayne! Perhaps Rich will find an old one soon.

If you could please try to keep all of your related questions and pictures in one topic, it would be easier for the rest of us to follow - and for you to keep track of what you have already posted. I went looking for the picture of your tractor and it looks to have a short lift lever - which means the lever assembly - and possibly even the hoodstand & rear toolbox are all pieces from a Lawn Ranger. Not that it matters much in this case, but I had a 1962 32E Lawn Ranger with the serial number of 62-17303

Just looked up the blades for 1986 model 310-8 and 1988 model 211-5 and both use the 109079 2-blade kit for the same year's 37" decks. Garry

What a great restore!!!!

SHeesh I got all happy...I thought there was a new Wheel Horse dating site with only girls that have Wheel Horses.....disappointed is an understatement....

Still cold and windy here, so I stayed inside and did some more clean up. Got some of the rust off the moonies. All this duff was in the hydro. Put on a better seat.

My local Toro dealer would not even consider selling that cheap, he asks top dollar and usually gets it.

To compliment what Glen said: Depends on what kind of winter weather you deal with: If you get really slippery slush and ice, you need the metal and low contact patch on the chain to bite through to hard surface. If its mostly powdery then ags work great, you just might need to use a little wheel spin and momentum when things get slick. Chains you use low speed because you have high traction (and it DOES scratch up whatever surface you drive on, and will tear up the grass if you spin even a little) In the spring/summer on the grass Ag's in the rear will do well on all but the most mushy of surfaces where the chains can act a little like paddles adding to the ags to help get you through. I vote tri ribs (or 5 rib, like I like, search "V61") in the front. Ags were designed to help pull (4wd) therefore you dont get as great of turning traction because of the angle of the lugs. Think of the tri-ribs as rudders. They will dig in and turn you any way you want to go. Thats not to say the ags dont work, some guys on here run them and love them, but since its a 2WD tractor, I would vote for the tall ribs.

Use different tires for Winter and for Summer work: • It's smart to have two complete sets of metal wheels & rubber tires if the same tractor works in both seasons. • Winter: IMO, Ag tires with a lot of weight do an excellent job, and with weighted tri-ribs on the front you will have the best for steering & control. With Ags, chains are not really needed, but the extra weight on both the front and rear are essential. • I think the tri-rib rubber would wear a little faster than turf tire, but then you're not using the tri-ribs nearly as much as you would turf tires (less rubber in contact with the ground on tri-ribs equals more wear). • I also agree that 16" would give just a little better control, and your spindles should be OK, but the HD (heavy duty) spindles are much stronger and better, but can cost a lot as you'll need mew metal wheels also. Turf tires work best if they have Chains, 2-link, in the Winter, and in moist turf, - - but avoid soggy mud with any tire, is bad on grass (looks like you have a gravel drive, better for chains). Weight greatly improves traction with any tire style. • Both Ag and Turf would be the same 23"OD original size for the rear, but going to 16" on the front adds 1/2" radius and may be a minor factor on tight turns when mowing. • Smart to up your PSI on all for tires; for Winter 20PSI and Summer 10PSI, (as the cold weather decreases the actual PSI by 2-4#). Lots of older posts and opinions on this subject . . . about 50% pro Ag, and 50% pro-Turf/Chains.

I am lucky my dad was a nut on maintenance. And all his parts at the time were WH Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

Awesome job on the refurb Matt! The tires really set it off. Back about 10 yrs. ago I had a Case 444 so I know what they are all about. Watching your video really makes me wish I kept mine. I can remember pushing 18 inches of snow with it like it was nothing, and it was a 54 inch blade. I'd love to see a video of it turning soil or the tiller in action...

Thought I was going to have to put the snow blower and chains back on..... We got 2" of white stuff yesterday....< Really? We are supposed to be getting more on Saturday...... I am sure eventually it will warm up enough to keep the white stuff away for a while....

Its got a manual lift, if it had a hydro lift I wouldn't even consider this swap. My favorite thing about hydro tractors is the hydraulic lift

Remember that when you time an engine using the static timing method, you need to turn the flywheel in a clockwise direction when looking at the flywheel. Doing so rotates the engine in a counter-clockwise direction when viewing the engine from the PTO side. If you are rotating it backwards, the static method won't work. Here is a link to the static timing procedure: http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/static_timing.pdf

You can check your timing by using the static timing method terry Denis had a PDF that you can read

Because the points are spring loaded it is possible to get a bigger gauge in there than what the gap actually is. You will develop a feel for it with experience. Try this - if you are aiming for .020" then a .019" will fall in the gap, and a .021" will not fit (without pushing the points open further against the spring pressure).

The best way to confirm exactly when the points are opening is to use a multimeter or continuity tester to check when the contacts actually stop contacting. On most engines the points gap and the ignition timing can be adjusted independently. On a K series engine, the only way to change ignition timing is via the points gap. You don't say what you have set the points gap to, if I understand your above post right, it sounds that you need to close the points gap a little. This will cause the points to open a little before they are presently opening (advance the timing). I usually end up at around .018" gap on my Kohlers.

you are not off a tooth to fix your problem you need to change the point gap if you are using a timing light you can adjust the points while the motor is running

Yep ! , I'm watching too .........I homed straight in on that Motor & Flywheel, Motor look's the same as in my Ryobi Brushcutter, and the Flywheel look's just like the one in my 1971 Poulan Chainsaw !!.

Did you try kicking it? haha don't do that... I have no idea but I would try asking AMC he has helped me with a lot...

very very nice Matt and thank you for the photos On my want list but rare over here, only one I have seen for sale went for big $$$ (not sure of model but was a twin with the hydraulic tiller

Wow that is a heck of a deal! There are two up for sale around here, one for $1600 with mower deck and snow plow only, and one for $900 with brinley plow only.

One way or another, you will have to separate this stuff. Here is how I would handle it (and usually do for my fathers electrical company): Print up a whole load of tags or labels (or use masking tape) with your arbitrary numbering system on them (pro tip: start at 1) Take each part off the shelf and take a high res photo (or 4) of it with the tag (use bright lights and light background) Stick or tie the tag on the part and put it back on the self in the order in which you removed it. Upload all pictures to a dedicated photobucket account with the price of each, delete pictures when sold. Just my thoughts. Its a decent amount of work, but will get most of that stuff gone while still getting as much money as you could for them online. Otherwise pack in truck and take road trips to tractor shows.

Bring it all to the big show in June. Lots of hungry buyers there with cash. No shipping problems or "will it fit" questions. Just sayin'....

just watch out for "hot foot" if you install foot controls

Nice little B80. How much?

I am having trouble posting pics but here is the story of how I got the 875. In 1970 my parents moved out to a semi-rural area and our new neighbor had a Wheel Horse tractor that he used too mow and plow snow and I thought it was the coolest thing. He passed away and the family that moved in got the tractor with the house. The daughter got married and took the tractor with her when she left. Last week I was talking to the son, who still lives there, and he was telling me his sister was moving out of state and she was leaving everything behind and he had to get it out before the new owner took over and he mentioned she still had the Wheel Horse and he was going to scrap it with all the other stuff she left. I told him I would help load stuff up if I could have the tractor and that was fine by him, so for a sore back and a tank of gas I have the tractor I first saw when I was 12 years old.

Id be interested to see how this does ... Keep us posted on it please

For me it was the large variety of attachments available. I have these and am always on the lookout for more.

thanks for the picture. that makes sense. I will see what the oil looks like after I drive it around a little more I am swapping in an 8spd this winter, so I will probably top it off and let it sit.

Heres my girl. When I bought her in 2011 she was a basket case as you can see. They hydro pump and motor was run out of oil and burned up, car tires on the back, front ones didn't hold air, a seat that a beaver had attacked at some point, no 3 point hitch and a wiring harness that looked like a 4 year old made it, the plow frame was bent and so was the moldboard like it hit something solid at about 10 MPH. But I didn't give up....I tore it pretty much down to the frame, purchased 3 hydro pumps and a motor and Made 1 good of each out of a bunch of parts. Cleaned the tranny completely after finding silicone clogging the intake screen, stripped everything to bare metal and rewelded all the broken parts, fixed all the dents and dings this poor thing got in its previously rough life and started from scratch rebuilding things the way I would have done it if I was Wheel Horse 1973. I added LED lights on both front and rear of the fenders and the headlights. I bought a 520 60 inch deck and adapted it to fit under the tractor and work like it should. I did a bunch of work for a member on here and scored me a bent up and rusted 3 point which I straightened and redid after soaking it for 2 weeks in tranny fluid and acetone. Repainted everything and got a seat that was close to what was offered in 73 on it. I made turning brakes from a bunch of pieces that I got along with some ingenuity and custom fab work from my Dad and myself, 29-9.50x15 Titan R-3 sneakers in the back and a set of 18-9.50x8 turf tires up front. I remade the entire wiring harness and added a multi-fuse block. It was a labor of love from the start because I have wanted an 18 auto from the time I was old enough to read the 1973 sales brochure my Dad got with his 12 Auto. I decided at that point I was going to have an "Estate Tractor" someday. Now she's mine and what a workhorse she is even with a very tired engine she still plows snow like a beast.

Sweet I would like to see them for the D series also please pretty please