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Here is a higher resolution picture. The RM-425 deck came with the double belt idler.

I was up to the family camp this weekend following a 20" dumping. The guy who plows for us said he needs a backhoe to come in and push the mounds back. Our driveway is about 1000' with a large circle by the house. When I came in my truck barely fit down the driveway. Once I got my son to bed I fired up the 314h 2-stage combo. Seat time from 10:30pm to about 12:30. By now this should be old news. But once again I'm blown away with the performance of my equipment. I probably saved a few hundred $$$ by doing it myself. Not to mention it was a good time. There was a 5' high pile in front of the garage which disappeared in no time. Plow banks up to 8' high. The road coming in was 6'-8' wide and is now 10'-12'. The Magnum 14 did plenty of grunting but got it done. Dollar for dollar you just cant beat a Wheel Horse!

Despite the colder than normal winter weather, I have finally finished the freshen-up of the 1045 I bought last December. It still has a small leak where the two transmission halves meet at the hitch pin. Does anyone have the part number of this seal and/or know where I can get one? Thanks!

Ed, In re-reading your original post I noticed you had mentioned "surging" at lower RPM and felt led to respond further. I have had considerable experience with these Onan engines and have found surging to be created by one of or a combo of three things. Onan carbs have a small expansion plug on the face side (same side as adjustment screw) that has tendancy to loosen up or worse to come clear out, and although this can happen it generally creates extreme surging. Second, is as mentioned in an earlier response a dirty carb. This can generally be taken care of by removing the top of the carb and servicing it from there. One particulaer area to look for in doing this is to remove the Idle Jet that is screwed into the lower body and be sure all of the side holes and the bottom hole in it are clear. I use a set of gas welding tip cleaning wires to do this task. Third and lastly, the carb manifolds are cast in two (2) pieces and glued together with a sealant from the factory. With age and continual heating up of the engine this sealant deteriorates resulting in the manifold sucking air. Since you are taking this manifold off anyway to adjust the valves I would pry the manifold apart and reseal it. This isn't that hard to do. One half of the manifold has guide pins cast into it and if you are careful these can be maintained. However I have had them break off separating the two halves. This isn't a big deal as they can be drilled out and replaced by some small #10-24 screws and nuts. Carefully clean the old gasket material off, trying to be very careful not to mar the gasket sealing surface. After cleaning it and washing it down with brake cleaner, laquer thinner or some similar type cleaning agent, apply an ample but conservative application of "Permatex MotoSeal 1 Ultimate Gasket Maker Gray" . This material is impervious to gasolene and ethonal infested gasolene and will hold up. You can use bolts through the end holes used to mount the manifold to hold location and to aid in clamping until the new sealant dries. Let it dry 24 hours before the manifold is bolted back into place.......................Hope all this helps in youe endeavors......................Gary

A member PM'd me and asked for a pic of my rear winch mount. Couldn't see how to PM a picture, so here they are. I built on to the hitch mount the PO made. His has Unistrut (I think. It's open on one side) bolted on top of rear axle, using longer bolts, that also attach the rear axle plow mounts. If redoing that part, I would use 1 1/2" sq. tubing. I've been using the GT and she sure needs a wash! 2 pins attach the winch. Only 1 is being used in pic, which is why it isn't vertical. I have the same mount on the front of the tractor. Also have a attachment for front or rear, which has a 1' barbell bar, sticking out to add weights to. The 2, taps on the rear are for attaching my back blade, lifting boom, etc Not sure if pics will work. .

Gotchya..... made Ya look.

Putting St Vince and the picture of a Bear on the same page?????? BLASPHEME!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm packing up stuff to bring as we speak- maybe I should come in disguise...just so you know- this is what I will look like- You know- just another Illini ***** cat!...Al

I found this old picture of my original collection.This picture was taken just before the 2002 WHCC show. Since this picture was taken I have figured out I have bought and sold 23 WH tractors ....but Im happy to report these original six are still in the garage plus two more ...a RJ59 and a 633. These kids are little "bigger" too .... Bob T

I will make a prediction........ A Team from Michigan will win the tournament!

Hello Everyone It's been a while since I've been on the forum I thought I'd get back into things with this post, As most of you know I've been waiting for the nicer weather to be here to allow me to crack on with the restoration of my cub cadet, there's not really a lot more that needs doing, only for me to add a few more coats to the wheels then add the decals, and all should look grand again! Here's some pictures for you, Here's the cub whilst removing the engine, The cub once engine was removed and had a petrol wipe, Prepping the rims Getting everything ready Wheels now with new tri rib tyres on, still need a few coats Half grey or half yellow? Spraying the bonnet, I don't know how good quality these pictures will load, but such a good paint job you can even see my reflection Spraying the tractor!

Scouting new prospects for team ...are you?

Now your just showing off Martin! That is an amazing job you did on that wiring harness. Thats probably one of the most overlooked parts of my refurbs. I don't know why, as it really shouldn't be. You've inspired me to try a little harder next time. By the quality of work going into this amazing restoration, you'd think it was a Rolls Royce. Love it!!!!! Matt

Another issue is locality in which the tractor is...Here in PA horses are pretty plentiful in the surrounding areas. A C-160 I'm comfortable paying $200 for may fetch a grand in Florida or Georgia where horses seem to be more rare. I also think its personal thing. I paid $600 for a non running, clapped out, abused 18 Automatic that cost me close to $2000, after the purchase price, before all was said and done with the restoration and I didn't even touch the engine or put a professional base coat clear coat paint job on it. Someone else would probably have sent it to the junker, but since I was 6 and read my Dad's 1973 Wheel Horse tractor brochure...I swore I would have one someday...now I do

Ed, like has been mentioned before, take care of the valves and decarbon while its apart. the intake has to come off to do the valve clearances. bit of a pain, but these engines are worth looking after. a little maintenance goes a long way and who doesn't like caring for our wheel horses? Before the Onans started appearing in my garage i didn't have much good to say about them, ignorant i guess, i thought nothing could draw my attention away from the simplicity of the k series Kohlers. Well times have changed, and while the Kohlers still impress me with their simple, uncomplicated makeup, the Onan has impressed me with how well made an engine they really are. they are a bit of a pain to work on, spare parts are more expensive, but there is something about them that has got me hooked on them......

Updated with pictures. In the for what its worth department the secondary belt pulley is 6" in diameter. Oops that last one just slipped in!!!!!!!!!

Yep, time to take down the Red Valentine Hearts and put up the Green Shamrock. happy St Patricks Day

Hello, I'm a new member here and I haven't yet got my own wheel horse but me and my boyfriend are currently looking out for one for me. My boyfriends knocking around here somewhere (Charlie Smith) I love these machines and think they are great. I can't wait to get one of my own I thought I'd join up now and muck in and see all the projects you guys get up too.

I want to first off thank all the folks here on this board for helping me with my project. My wifes grandfather passed away in 1989 and this tractor had sat in a pasture since the 70's. He purchased it new from the dealer and as some pictures show, he completely "farmerized" numerous pieces. He somehow installed a power steering pump, heat shields, and other items to just make it work. I was able to finish this project this weekend and give it back to a stunned mother-in-law and father-in-law. I tried to leave parts and pieces in original-ish form, but obviously had to fix others. You have all been so kind and generous with your time and answers. I have never worked on cars, or farm implements. I borrowed tools, asked questions, and for the first time in my life listened to advice. I am the epitome of someone who had never even heard of Wheel Horse 4four months ago. Sure there was some money spent, but this has been very fullfilling. My favorite parts were the heat shield that I was able to design to use her grandparents names, the id tag which is his birthday, and the engine tag that I had done so that it showed his DOB/DOD on it so nobody would forget. I told them the only rule was this has to be used, driven, played with, wrecked, fixed, used. It is not allowed to sit in the garage and looked at. I used rattle cans, so that if there is a scratch, we can just touch it up and put it out to be played with again. I will probably never own a Wheel Horse again, but I would like to think the knowledge you guys gave me, will stick with me. I feel like one of Ken's kids in the Tractor Club! Enjoy the pics. I have some before and afters, and a few of my wife back in 1975 playing on the tractor with her grandparents. There were plenty of tears shed yesterday when I unveiled it. I told them I just was going to get the engine to run, they had no idea. I know this board's motto is "pics, pics, pics"! so here you go. sorry the pics were so small, I needed to make them small to fit so many...

LOL Ed, I can see by the title here, you too are full of the ol' blarney.

I looked at this last summer and might have a chance to buy the whole package, it runs great with no smoke. The deck shell is rough, I don't know how many hours are on it. I'm looking for opinions on what a fair price would be. Thanks.

Its great to be aboard:)

All recently I bought a very nice RJ 35. It is solid and not rusted and complete except the belt guard. Has black wheels on both ends and from what I have read here I believe it is a '55. It does have the channel iron frame. The engine has been replaced with a K 91 that is pretty old (judging by the carb). It hasn't been cut or broken anywhere that I have seen so far and will go under its own power. But it did not come with a belt guard, I know I could ask some of you here (Buckrancher, Duke) and you would be happy to take measurements and pictures to share with me, so that I could make one. I would know but others would not. So here is what I want to know regarding an early RJ 35 belt guard. 1) Width 2) overall length 3) material thickness,expressed in gauge or thousandths 4) material used to make the rear mounting tab (the one under the seat) 5)distance from the ends to the beginning of the radius and the radius of the bend 6) material to make the front mounting tab (where it bolts to the engine) distance from the end etc. 7) material and location of the belt guide I would prefer that all replies be posted here, because again I think this would be good info to share, thanks in advance to each for your help. Regards, David

I installed the rear tires and rims on the rear 520. Both machines lined up just waiting for the hoods and fenders to come home from being painted to finish assembly. Cleat

Even I gotta admit, that's funny...

Nice looking 1045 for sure! One of my personal favorite machines! Those factory front tires are hard to find. I got one set off of Joe's Outdoor Power once, they were remounted on a set of Cub Cadet rims and listed as Cub Cadet tires. I knew right away that they came from a rare 1045 and bought them fast! Nobody else figured it out. So really there is no where to get them unless they are old and used. Keep your eyes peeled and you might get lucky on Ebay. I bought every pair that showed up on Ebay over the years except one pair recently that a Redsquare member got because they got over my $100 budget. I have a few sets hoarded up since I have always wanted a few 1045's around. I put one set on my recently acquired 1045 and another set on my Army Horse. Other than that, they are rare as hens teeth!

What is it with the state of Michigan??? They have ruined my Sunday. I have no one to root for in the Big Ten Championship Game. Michigan against Michigan St... give be a break. Looks like I will be watching golf this afternoon. OH...that's right...the Para-olympics is on. Cool!!!

For some reason the later model 520 did not have these belt guides installed. The tractor had the holes punched but never tapped for bolt threads. I tapped the holes and bought a set of guides from ebay. Guides are now installed and belt guard is reinstalled. Cleat

On the tractor.

From your lips to Gods ears.

another thing to remember, what ever 'high flow' element you put in there, the air is still just sucked through that tube that is in the top of the blower housing. and the carb throttle plate diameter is only going to flow so much air anyway and then its just a waste of money. i think a standard replacement filter would do just fine, anything more is just overkill......

It IS red and looks like factory paint. Has a Tillotson updraft carb #E2A. Also has a 5 1/2" dip stick tube. Pull start only.

First time for me going to the big show. Taking a few buddies with me stopping in Pittsburgh for a baseball game first then going to the show Friday. Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Surging? Be sure to clean the carburetor.

You were apparently using the wrong Wix filter on your hydro. All I use is Wix #51410 and NAPA #1410 (which Wix makes for NAPA) on my hydro. It is a true hydraulic filter not and oil filter. The Wix and NAPA filters are twice as good as Toro....Whatever you used was an oil filter for a car.

Years ago straight out of high school my first job was forming and welding baffles in Tar Tankers. I didn't get it from my welding but from the guy next to me that was welding. Ground up potato juice helped that night after work but still suffered through it for a few days. ~Duke

The coil is the last part I would change. I would check for 12v at the + coil terminal with the switch on run, then clean and check all the terminals to points and condenser , then clean and set the plug and points. Then install a new condenser.

My first Garden tractor was an old Simplicity Baron that looks just like your beige and orange one. I learned to drive a tractor on an old ford that looked basically just like yours. Good memories . Cleat

It has been attempted many times but usually ends up in an electronic fist fight. The only definite way to value most of this stuff is multiply how much it weighs by the current scrap price. Beyond scrap price, "worth" can only be determined on how much someone is willing to pay. Back when the interest / demand was low, prices were much lower. Now that more hands are reaching for that "last cookie in the jar", people are paying crazy prices for tractors in worse condition than ones I would have junked 10-15 years ago.

Good ole 518H tearing it up for me!

Actually, between groundhog47 (he was with me) and me going over - and over! - that day talking to the owner, we're certain (almost) that he had removed the spark plugs fooling with trying to get spark and had left them - or the front one - out for some length of time and when he ran the ad decided better put the plug/s back in not realizing the little critter had done its deed. The plug hole would be visible and accessible with only a short distance to go and build his house. The muffler route is is out, getting thru that Nelson all that distance just wasnt gonna happen, and the air cleaner was mounted. The dirt daubers down here are a nuisance but arent at all aggressive - now the red wasps building their paper nests are sumpthin else!! and does their sting hurt -- woooeee!

How about 5 rib tires.... http://www.millertire.com/products/lawn-garden-tires/18x8-50-8/18x8-50-8-v61-hd-5-rib-4-ply/

Chicks dig welding burns Mark Ouch, that looks a bit of a finger sizzler! Note to self.... Get some welding gloves that don't have loads of holes!

The hitch you can find on ebay, The wheels you can get from Midwest super cub. you have to understand what off set is. to make sure they clear.

Hello Guys, I haven't been making any post because I haven't been doing anything with my machines for a while now! However I thought I'd come back with some fabulous news! I'm now an uncle. However it wasn't expected so soon, the little man is 5 weeks early, my sister had to have an emergency C- Section due to pre eclampsia and the baby's heart beat dropping! He was born yesterday (11/2/14) at 3:28AM weighing only 3lbs 8oz, he is making a full recovery, both my sister and him are fine! He is breathing on his own, and only needs a tube every other feed and they say at this rate it won't be long before they are both home! His name is Tyler. Let's hope he finds a place in his heart for wheel horses when he's older Shortly after he was born Later on in the day!

This was another tractor/ride on mower I purchased. When i brought the ride on mower it was just sitting there rusting away! I got it, did a few modifications and put my own paintwork and custom decals on it and made it into a racing mower! I think it was a 1989-90 model, but don't hold me to it, it never went super fast like some of these cool things you see online, but I had 23MPH out of it sitting that low at 23 mph feels like 100mph aha!, then it snapped the drive chain and belts, here's some pictures

Two projects that's not many. Wait until you have so many unfinshed projects that you can't remember them all. I think I have 5 or 6 can't remember but half of them right a the moment. Then there are a few more I have been thinking about that I haven't started yet.

I have been waiting almost 2 years to finally install this dealer sign the I got from a friend and member here (Riley08). This started as a double sided, 4x6 ft sign but it would have been much to big and by cutting it down I can use the opposite side elsewhere. I mounted it on the old barn beam and used the brackets that it was hung with to support the barn beam. This weekend we are going to get everything wired up and hopefully figure out a way to get this sign to light up....

This is my first post, so bear with me on this one. Quick history-1998 44" 2 Stage snowthrower, Model #79361, I bought this unit off eBay for a fair price back in January 2010, from Joe's Outdoor Power. I did the rebuild during the summer of 2010. The paint color was automotive Dodge Viper red, all decals are new and I carefully removed and reattached the model/serial# tag with an automotive emblem adhesive. It was mounted on my 1991 416H for the end of 2010 winter and for the 2010-2011 season. This last winter it was on my 1995 520H. I'm not an engineer, I just tinker with stuff that breaks or doesn't work as well as I would like it to. Before and after pictures First the Peerless gearbox, I don't know if the previous owner hit something solid with the auger or the pulley was hit from the side, but where it is mounted was bent counterclockwise. I bent back the mounting surface with small hydraulic press and welded two pieces of cold rolled steel, 1/2 x 1 x 3", on the inside and remounted the gearbox with 1/2" longer carriage bolts (Sorry no picture, difficult to see). I tried a new stock chain tensioner block the first winter after the rebuild (2010-2011) and didn't like how it wore so fast. So for this winter I used a small roller chain guide with a sealed ball bearing (made for a small motorcycle), and it worked pretty well. But we had a very light winter this year. My auger bearings were worn completely through the side, I didn't like the shaft turning inside the bronze bushing so I replaced them with 1" self centering sealed ball bearings from TSC, Part #1195167 and mounting flanges, Part #1198717. Then I had to make a 1/4" spacer so the bearings sat inside far enough so the side thrust bolts on the outside ends of the shaft were spaced correctly. Next are the modifications. I added a 12 volt linear actuator to the deflector. The mounts are homemade from aluminum and I had to drill one 1/4" hole in the deflector handle. The actuator has built in stroke adjustment and limit switches. I added a 12 volt power window motor from my truck to turn the chute. This took some time to fabricate and to figure how to wire it with limit switches. The limit switches are from McMaster-Carr and are rated to get wet but not submersed. I used a standard flat four trailer plug to connect it to the tractor. The first picture is the mock up and I drilled two 3/8" hole to mount. The toggle switches I used were from Radio Shack (3 position, 6 terminal, DPDT switch, springs back to center). I also attached a power window motor to a single stage(1989-Model#06-36SL01). I bought it brand new in the box in 2009. I know this model was built for a vertical shaft Wheel Horse, but I converted it to my horizontal shaft tractors. That would be complete new post. Too much time on my hands during the winter I guess. Currently I'm putting a Haban sickle bar mower on the 416H. Not a bad fit until I wanted to use the hydraulic lift to raise and lower it. I hope this has some helpful information for somebody, as I have picked up a lot information from this site for my hobby. Craig