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You will really be surprised if you use a Roll Pin punch it does not have to be a pneumatic one (though that would be nice) just get a set of roll pin punches. After I bought my set i could not believe the difference it made. Being able to keep the punch intact with the pin makes a big difference. I am not saying it will automatically and magically knock your pin out. It just helps a whole lot compared to a regular punch.

I was tiling a bathroom on a hotel recently and i had a few old broken tiles left over, so i thought rather than just throw them away i would put them to good use . Here are a few pics of what i managed to conjour up , The mosaic even has some chrome wheel nuts which i took off some plumbing fittings I thought i would use the display when showing my tractors at the shows

I'd like to second Terry's opinion above about a tractor with footboards for a child. My Lawn Ranger was built for my daughter and she does drive it sometimes. But the lack of floorboards scares the hell out of me. I don't want to put some on the tractor, so I prefer her to drive one of the newer tractors. Her clutch control is awful even after a couple of years, but her mothers was too so I put that down to genetics!

A common misconception..... The distance between the transaxle mounting surface at the back of the frame to the (front) footrest bar is around 20-21 inches on short, medium, and long frame garden tractors. The longer wheelbase comes from adding to the frame length ahead of the footrest bar, offering more engine mounting space. Only my opinion, but I believe fully-protected rear tires and safety switches should be requirements when choosing a tractor for an inexperienced youngster. A 1972 Commando 800 or 1973 8 / 4 speed would make a good "entry-level" Kohler-powered GT ~ and a vertical shaft lawn tractor would also offer the same safeguards and easier-on-the-wallet cost. The early automatic tractors are too quirky and unpredictable (even for some adults ) and should be avoided if possible.

I plan to be there Thu -Sat. Time to clean out the barn and dust off the red junque. I will have a trailer load for sale. Will post pics later.

I have a pretty nice one...#51....I would let mine go for even less....

A lot of folks with 953/1054 and 1054-A Wheel Horse tractors have original seat frames and would like to preserve the original look but need new seat covers. The covers are often sold on EBAY and a few members have been selling them. I thought I would post a tutorial on how to make an original seat bottom. The cover I have is a remake of an original that was placed on an original seat bottom. The bottom piece was made of layered Luan Birch plywood from what I could tell. We kept the original seat bottom and had a new cover made for it when we bought the 1054 several years ago. With age , rain, setting outside etc the water finally destroyed the integrity of the glued layers in the seat bottom paneling. What I did was make up four seat bottom panels recently (and four backs and repainted frames which I will do another posting on later) with new and better quality materials than originally sued by Wheel Horse. First, I bought a half inch good quality plywood (not pressboard, or thinner materials in my opinion-they won't last). I cut the plywood with a pattern taken from the original seat that had curved corners but was 17 1/2 wide by 13 inches. I used a handheld sander to smooth all the edges (for the vinyl cover to go over easy and not tear, etc). Second, the "sides" of the bottom plywood seat are 2 x 4's cut or split at a 45 degree angle to form the valley for your bottom to sit on the foam/cover. I used Hardwood purchased from a local hardwood supplier and had a neighbor split, sand and round the edges of the side pieces. The side pieces are 12 1/2 inches long and 1 1/2 inches high on the high side. I attached them to the bottom with # 8 1 1/4 inch Star Drive all purpose wood screws using an electric drill. This made it easy to install these angled pieces (especially eight of them on the four seat bottoms I made). Thirdly, I than cut a 5 and 1 1/2 inch Luan Plywood ( 1/4 inch) support piece that I glued to the bottom with Monkey Glue (although I think Elmer's Wood Glue would work fine). This support piece was on the original seat and helped keep the bottom in place and ride between the two steel frame arms that are attached to the 953/1054 fenders. I used a polyurethane on all the wood pieces and coated them three or four times to assist in repelling water and to seal the wood good. This is especially important on the plywood seat bottom and the 1/4 inch support piece. The cover was placed top down on a flat surface with padding underneath to prevent damage. I placed a soft foam piece cut to size of the cover in the inside of the cover. I then cut a hard foam (a special dense foam that a friend gave me from an airplane seat project) in the inside of the two side pieces. Just between the beginning edges of the side pieces. I slowly pulled up the edges and corners of the cover over the frame and foam pieces to see how it all fit -making sure not to tear or overly stretch the vinyl cover. The fit was fine and I then began to slowly staple ( take the time and money to get STAINLESS STEEL STAPLES) the seat cover on the edges and then the corners. I think the job ended up nice and pretty close to original. Here are some more photos with some measurements placed on the wood with black magic marker FYI:

I just wanted to say after being on here for a few years and seeing how the European buddies we have on Red Square have grown their participation, great contributions and innovative interaction on the website, we sure can learn a lot from you folks in the Wheel Horse department! I find myself "peeking" into the Europe forum more and more! A big thank you for all you do on Red Square.

Once again, it's never too early to be thinking about the BIG SHOW. June 21st is not that far away, and with the winter we have had, it can't come too soon. So, are you coming this year, and what will you be bringing? Will you be showing tractors, or bringing stuff to sell, or both? Maybe you are just coming to look and mingle. I am hoping to bring my B-100, 701, Commando 8, and 857. I might also have a couple of Lawn Rangers, a B-100, and C-120 to sell. Don't forget to take a look at the printed schedule when you get there to see when the RedSquare group pictures will be taken. Don't know who's in charge of the picture this year, but Steve did a great job last year. So let's get some BIG SHOW enthusiasm going.

Yikes, you didn't take her to the hospital on the 518 ...did you ?

Believe it or not one of the reasons most love these tractors is because there are no electronic boxes and jigger this and computer so and so that I need an interface to see what is going on when they are troubleshooting. SIMPLICITY...... KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID..... Im much happier being able to trace wires and replace them and the associated switches as needed. No need for complications in that process

Started work on an 8" WH plow made by Brinly that I got a couple of month's ago. This plow I'm going to hook to Ezra for plow days. It was rather rusty but cleaning up well with a Harbor freight needle scaler. The face is coming out smoother than it looks. I'll blow some paint on the non contact points and finish off the contact points with a flap wheel. This is a non restoration. I all ready have the same plow for show.

My son Kent loves driving around on his 875. We built this one together last year......

Bob we will be there Thursday. I have a gas peco bagger and a hydraulic sickle bar to sell. Karen may sell her C141. Jim

You are welcome to any one of mine. Plus I know there will be numerous offers from others as well. Can't wait to see you and your lady.

Thats a factory weight bracket and weights Neil

Lurking in the shadows!!!

I have to disagree with some of underpowered comments. I believe B60s were all 8 speeds, gearing is what you need. Sickles do not require much power. Slow speed yes. My 753 has no problem with its sickle bar ...since I made it an 8 speed. You have to go slowly with sickles. I have a 7ft sickle bar I use with my Case DC3 Tractor (she is about 40hp) but with the sickle you are in first gear with the engine loafing. Tiller looks to be in great shape, hardly any wear on the tines, again 8hp is more than enough since you till in 1st or 2nd low range. Snowblower will work but more HP would be better.

That is just so awesome that it is now my new desktop background at work.

Everything looks to be in great shape...do not see the cart in the pictures. I would think top end is about $1500. Blower $200 to $300, Sickle Bar $300, mower deck $150, Tiller $350, Cart $100 to $200, Horse looks great, tires, weights, seat all looks good. $400 to $500. My 2 cents

Lane Glad you are finally getting to go to the big show. I will get busy and catch up on my magnets soon. See you in PA Vinylguy

Terry: I would will be attending my first Big Show in June! I have been wanting to go since I joined Red Square and learned about the Wheel Horse Collector's Club -which I am also now a member of along with my brother David Ralph. I am sending you two photos for a magnet for both me and my brother. Lane Ralph David Ralph

That does look like a good tractor. I personally would try the $500 again, probably $600 max for me. It doesn't have the mower deck? It looks like it may have been painted and has a new seat, so if you can look at it and run it in person that would be best (to make sure the paint job is worth what they are asking, if that is in original shape thats even better yet). Check the oil, for smoke, easy to start (even though it was a rebuild), drives well, etc. So its worth it if its been done well, but sometimes pictures can be deceiving. Other than that the C series tractors are hard to beat for versatility and durability. The eight speed can make that 8hp do things you would never expect it to be able to do!

Brandon, I'd also say to look for a square hood short frame. They're out there and not too hard to find parts for. Here's a pic of an 857 I finished up last year, great little tractors.

You (and others) MAY not believe this, but if you can get the ENTIRE steering column off of the tractor (with dash), then you can wiggle the steering wheel into a 20-ton press and the ROLL PIN will actually SHEER off under the pressure. I have done this 2 or 3 times and it is a little scary...especially when the roll pin sheers off... you get a really loud ....BANG

I am also in Australia and would love to get an early Wheel Horse as we didn't get anything before 1985 when Toro took over. I can arrange a container from Seattle WA, but obviously not many (any?) Wheel Horses in that part of the country. This post has renewed my interest in pursuing importing one, the only missing link for me is getting it from the depot to shipping agent. Being half way around the world it would also give me much greater confidence to deal with another Red Square member. Great to hear of a collector in Australia, I feel a bit of an orphan over here as there presently doesn't appear to be much interest in American garden tractors at all. That is great for buying them locally when they do turn up though. Another thank you for this post, I'm off to check the classifieds!.

I have a roll pin punch bit for my air hammer I got it off ebay but it is a Snap on bit, so far works great, are you trying to save the wheel?

When I first got it... Last summer... Every part has been painted as of this week - reassembly will begin in a month when all parts are cured.

1400 hours may sound like a lot, but that works out to about one hour a week considering the age. The parts and peices that came with it would cost $ 550, so you got a great free .

Outstanding, not only your outstanding mosaic, but you get bonus points for including a Senoir with a puppy on the seat!

I mow with a 5xi and 48" and 60" decks. The attached pictures were taken after cutting with the 48" deck. I think that it does an adequate job. Been cutting with a wheel horse deck since 1971, so I don't have anything to compare it to. Rick

Wheel Horse Calender worthy!!!!

That would sound so sweet for about 2 minutes. Running that engine at full tilt for hours on end cutting your grass might get you thrown out of town . Not to mention you'd probably be deaf.

Heck of a deal but

The only reasons I would go with the high horsepower is to help make up for the difference in torque. The newer v-twins seems to be more HP and the older opposed twins more torque lower HP. Then you throw EFI on there and you can save i think they claim 25% fuel savings. Imagine more HP then the onan 20 but the fuel usage of a K321 or K341. Who could ask for more? It helps that I am an electrical engineer and so the electronics dont scare me as much as them might some people. Also, im not sure if I would stick with the eaton (which is likely not made anymore and il bet replacements are not as durable) or go for a divorced pump/motor system where you can run higher pressures, extra lifts/attachments and such things. I mean if we are dreaming here. You could take the pump system like on the toro dingo and have full time 2WD or even 4WD if you were adventurous. Heck, you could hook up a FEL without adding an extra pump. I would not want to go much bigger than the C/400 series though. Thats most of the appeal to me to keep it smaller than a CUT with most of the capabilities.

This one ought to be worth a buck or three:

I agree on the negativity. I would even be ok with regular steel and some powder coat We always talk about how simple these things were, so they should be just as simple to reproduce other than the sheet metal which will require tooling... Kohler makes 27HP electronic fuel injected twins now too that should be stuffed under the hood and forget all that aero looking junk. Make it big and chunky mixing the style of 70's, 80s, and 90's era wheel horses.... Make a low power version and a 520 killer. (OK, i know this isn't really commercially viable but still...)

I think you got a very good deal, but

Jay, best of luck, sounds good. Dont forget ,,,,,, Glenn

Wow $250 shipping costs, what a bargain & what a beautiful tractor. I paid quite a bit more than $250 to ship my tractor across the pond last October 2013 i wished i had gone to the company that you used, it may have been a lot cheaper . I used UPS to ship 5 of my tractors from US & they required me to also have them crated up , but i am glad i paid the extra cost to crate them as the guys in the loading depot are not too careful with the forklifts , as the crate in the first picture has been damaged & that could have damaged the tractor if it wasnt crated .

I'm just thinking here "Jduncan", but that piece is steel. Cast iron (regardless of grade) will not take the powerful and repeated pressures that entail the function of the clutch. It's steel. It can be TIG welded quite nicely. I'd stay away from MIG or stick welding unless you want to do a lot more work. But, as it is steel, you could make a replacement end and weld it on. If done correctly it would work as well as OEM stuff. Other wise its weld and re-machine. As I'm still in the process of tearing mine down (between other jobs and relaxing), I haven't access to mine yet. I'll let you know what I think in a day or three.

Rayshorses i agree with you i spent some time last night eyeballing things and its gonna be a tight fit i think iam gonna put it on my 953 still iam gonna have to redo the front mount and make somekind of belt drive or angle gear box.

I have the exact same model. It was originally off of a big simplicity tractor. I was going to mount it on my c-160 , so i got a right angle gear . The angle gear would be mounted to a bracket , welded to the front plate of the mower so one shaft lines up with the PTO and the other shaft would line up with the pulley on the mower...belt tensioning would be achieved by a flat pulley and a spring similar to what we use on a snowblower. That was my first idea. My second idea was to cut off the entire front of the mower off so the shaft would be behind the mid tach. Then weld a bracket to mount the mower to the mid tach. Then mount the right angle drive to the shaft with a lovejoy coupling so the other right angle shaft would be in the same position as a regular mower deck. Then the mule drive from your rotary mower could be mounted to the front tach and tension would be the same as a rotary mower. Just as i was about to fabricate this contraption , i bought a couple of D series machines and realized this mower fits perfectly under them...problem solved with just a little mounting bracket fabrication and there is plenty of room under that tractor . As much as i like to fabricate things , this mower is a tight fit under the C series machines.

So here are some pics the guy i got it from said it was new old stock when he got it he only used it once. I think i got it for a good price at 250.00. I do have the rear mounts for it and the front original mount.

Here is a picture I would like on the magnet. I think I have it uploaded correctly, please let me know if you do not get it. Thank you so much. See you in PA!!!

Well, as much as I didn't want to sell it, he wanted to buy it more. So the current president of WHCC is the proud new owner of the custom 2 seater. I felt better about letting it go to someone that will definitely enjoy it. After the sale, Bill had a huge smile from ear to ear and it was fun to watch him enjoy it from the second he drove off with it. He opened up the Saturday parade driving his new ride and had a sign on the front which read " El Presidente's Car". I believe it will now be in attendance at future WHCC shows for years to come which also tilted my decision to let it go. It's getting tough to think of new customs that haven't already been done but hopefully there will be something new for 2014. ONLY spare or already damaged parts are used so there is no cutting or hacking of good tractors.

Good looking seat.....considering you went through that case of Strohs! I used to run around with a couple of guys that were 2 years older than me, and they had connections, so I drank a lot of Strohs back in the early 70's!

Thanks to all the members that placed orders for the complete seats. As of today we only have three complete seats left and after those are gone. We will take orders but there will be a two to three week turn around time before they will ship. Thanks josh