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Time for another SUPPORT MEMBER raffle. The following 15 inch neon clock will be raffled off and all you have to do is go to the raffle area and grab a free ticket. Drawing to be held March 15th but don't wait too long as there can be an instant popup mystery prize drawn at any time till this raffle ends. NOTICE! We will not ship these clocks out of country so if one of our international wheel Horse brothers should win they will rec a $75 store credit at redoyourhorse.com Which can be used when purchasing any decals I have listed. I can ship decals first class international. If the winner is in the US they can choose this option if they so desire. Basically you could trade for whats behind door # 2. the winner of the clock can contact me and let me know how they want there clock to look. A picture of your favorite tractor or what ever you want. well almost what ever you want. The raffle opens as soon as Coach gets it going. Thank you all again for your support of the forum. I am just using my good friend Martins C-125 as an example of what you might want on your clock. The clock will actually have hands on it when it comes. Varosd will vouch for that. Yes Don you can actually win again but it is not likely. And Bob don't worry I am bringing one for the big show raffle so you are sure to win that one.

I just saw this ad. Love these old ads, almost like a Pond ... Mighty Mite Ad.pdf 1.19MB And also this video, "Crazy things people do at work" (5 min) . . . http://biertijd.com/mediaplayer/?itemid=44930

Something a little different. Still need to add some pieces, brackets, etc. figured id take a picture of her current state. and hope for fire in the hole next weekend. The Almond looks whiteish in this light but it is Almond.

• I put colored electrical tape on every-other size socket; like Green for 1/2", orange for 3/8", blue for 5/8", and the in-between sizes I can guess when they are all lying there in order. The tape does get nicked up and needs to be replaced every few years. • Stopped at a print shop and got a damaged box of big paper, 23x35"; always keep a 2-3" pile of it on the work bench and I work on that, it's whitish, can write notes on it, it's coated but reasonably soft and absorbs spills. When messed up, just discard it and have a clean new area to work on. • Mounted a small $10 fan near the ceiling, blowing down on my work bench, warm air down in the Winter, a breeze in the Summer and dries & moves fumes away, turn on-off by plugging in-out the plug, low speed, just noticeable, not fast.. • Mounted several of those 2' magnetic strips, on the wall in front to hold tools temporarily while I'm working, rather than leaving them on the bench and in my way, then they're put away when I'm all done. Also use a bunch of those magnetic trays to hold screws & small parts while working. • Got a adjustable pull-out 30" work-light mounted on the wall behind the workbench, with a bright 100w bulb, great for angling to look horizontal into something. • Put some electrical outlets just under and in front of the workbench, keeps the cords of my tools off the workbench & out-of-the-way, can leave them plugged in and just under the bench for quick access anytime. (Got 4 cheap $10 small 4x4" sanders, one for each grit that I most use). • We use the large heavy-duty Wastebasket on wheels, and put a 3/4" board on it with a triangle hole (dust pan just fits in it, to dump), the board is the same height as my workbench and the whole thing is very mobile and still a handy wastebasket 'right there" (board lifts off to empty). RL] • And then, my Hoist. Securely bolted on 24' of square Barn Door square Track into the ceiling joists, hung a '$79 Harbor Freight' electric hoist on a bar with the barn door wheel hangers, and for electricity, used a ceiling mount re-coil cord (just cut the light off). It can lift 750# easily, for engine onto bench, tractor up, or hanging anything heavy.

Does that threadlocker release with heat, or do you need to use EXLAX ? I can't help myself.

Terry, if everyone bows out, I may stand a chance. I was at a union meeting one night, and they used to raffle off things. They had 50 prizes and 51 members present...and you could only win once...guess who went home with nothing. I'm in...Thanks Mate. I was thinking of changing my name, but "rmaynard" is already taken. BTW...so is "Buckrancher".

protect your work from scatching by making these vice jaw protectors , normally made from Aluminum but these are made from sheet Lead which is much softer than Aluminum & are much easier to make & are much softer than Ali

Good info! I like the white paint for the sockets idea, my sight is going down hill fast. My garage tip is to keep it stinking of PB Blaster and gasoline plus very messy, that way the wife won't go in there!

I wired an old 120V. thermostat up to a light bulb in one of the cabinets under my bench. When it gets real cold the light keeps things stored in the cabinet from freezing.

How 'bout a restoration Martin?

Don't go to JimD's house for a Turkey Dinner!

This is what I use I insert the valve in the block like this I spin the valve while slowly grinding material away You can take off too much very fast if your not careful

for all those complaining about no updates, heres one........ got the wiring harness all sorted this morning. it had the typical problems for these models, burnt terminals in molex connectors and the 30 amp fuse terminals were also burnt into the plastic fuse block. so purchased a new fuse block (del city part #73895 $4.14ea) and i used a few molex connectors from the kit i purchased earlier on for 416#1. i went through one area at a time, pulling and cleaning all the terminals or replacing if they were corroded or burnt. the ignition switch plug was also changed out for a good one as it wasn't holding the terminals correctly. all the wiring and plugs that were reused were given a good scrub to get them looking better...... heres a typical problem with the fuse blocks, too much electrical heat causes the terminals to burn or melt into the holder. I've had fuses welded to the terminals as well. new fuse block i used just about all the standard harness, cutting off the terminals that were bad and crimping new ones on. here the old fuse terminals have been removed and replaced with new, pushed home into fuse block. the factory fuse holder has the same bridged terminals as the replacement. the 30 and 25 amp fuses are both fed by a bridged terminal with one wire from the starter. i thought it would be better to run two independent wires from the starter to each fused circuit rather than run all through the one. the 1995 416-8 harness only runs one wire oem, but i noticed that my 1991 416H has two wires....so they did do it at one stage. i just think that running all the current for these 2 circuits through one wire is why this area has a problem in the first place.... this is the two wire fuse bridged terminals, the single wire bridged terminal fell apart from corrosion and being burnt. these are the replacement ones, they come in a strip of 4 but i already cut them for this application. since i changed my mind and went with single terminals, these weren't needed anymore. the strip also makes it impossible to crimp with the tool i have so the two wire single method worked better for me. since i wanted to run two wires to feed two circuits here i needed to use a circuit through the engine harness connector.... there are two spare so that is no problem. i picked the one that the engine harness side of the plug has the white wire that runs to the starter. this wire isn't needed on this model, so i will leave this one out and replace with a red power wire. the empty position is in the middle. this is the tractor side of the harness and not the engine side..... the engine side has a white wire from this center position. so this plug was swapped out, terminals cleaned or replaced and the red wire added..... this is the white wire at the starter end of the engine harness..... typical reason why checking these terminals can avoid future problems..... harness getting there. made up the pto safety switch assembly, two new switches and replated bracket with new fasteners..... harness taking shape on hood stand. also started to clean up the engine ready to go back together. also got some more parts painted.....

McMaster & Carr Part # 92865A318

Also Get some large heat-shrink tube & put it over your ratchet handle . Keeps your hands comfy & buffers those over-tightening mishaps better than Nerf Wrenches .

Click and Clack were the best!! I listen to them every day on XM. I love the endings "The head of our overworked mother dept. is Erasmus B. Dragon and our seat cushion tester is Fitz M'Tush"

The enema bulb is used for Turkeys!

I recently picked up a B & S service and parts book from a fellow that used to work on small engines. Although most of the information only goes back to the middle 80's I did find somthing I found very interestion. A B & S service bulletin #367 and dated 5/10/60 explains that the factory has received several engines that had premature failure. The engines had been on snow plows and the engines had been run with the choke mostly closed resulting in fouling of the spark plug. The spark plugs were removed and cleaned in a spark plug "blaster" with abrasive material. The plugs were then cleaned with compressed air, re-gapped, installed and used. The engine failure was from small particles of the abrasive material still on the spark plugs and ending up scoring the cylinder walls and the crankpin journal. B & S repair shops were instructed to NOT use the abrasive blasters and to clean the plugs with solvent only. I was thinking, just throw the plug away and replace it...duhhhh In 1965 a gallon of gas cost $0.31 so a spark plug was probably $0.50 or less, but the income was only $7500 so that is why people cleaned and re-used their spark plugs! Man I must be bored to be reading a repair manual for NOTHING I even own!

Might start a new fashion trend here. The perfect match for Steveasaurus' bandana

Just wondered if the KT17 Engine details can be dated to '80'. May give an idea that it was fitted at the Factory. Jeff, Belgium Built numbering has no standard system. Here is a link to an example Thread about them- There are many more if you search for the word Belgium in the Euro Horse Forum. The differences in Model Specification and Numbers started in 1969 and went on right to the end. Like Andy (wheeledhorseman) , I was lucky, my 2 are/were correct to US Tractor Spec and Model Numbers. .......I would call it a C175 anyway. At least you know why it is not correct, so it makes the Tractor Unique until another is found the same.

First of all, since most of you are in the US. I just want to wish you all condolences on your olympic gold medal hopes for men's hockey I don't know why the best hockey players come from Canada... maybe its the 8 or 9 months of winter! Go Canada Go! That being said, we will take Kessel and Vanreimsdyk back after the tournament to play for the Leafs. Okay, back to the C160. Last night I managed to have a fairly good night and everything worked well. First cleaned out the lift cylinder and all of the hyd lines THe rest is kind of a blurr. My youngest son - 15 years old came out to help me get the transaxle mounted and the hydrostat mounted back on that. Everything went back together really smooth and we were working so well together that I entirely forgot to take step by step pictures. The only other one I have is this one: and the other side: This is back on all 4! It performed amazingly! No leaks, Lots of power and speed in forward and reverse and no strange noises! We did get the weather that they were predicting last night including a Thunder snow storm so I didn't get a chance to run it hard for any length of time so that will be the job for this weekend. I plan to put a plow on it and give it a work out either tomorrow or Sunday and I will let you all know how it goes when it warms up. I'll also try to post a video of it working when I get there. So, thanks to everyone who contributed to this post and gave me advice along the way, This was probably the most complicated project I have ever done and I am very gratefull for all of the help. Oh and by the way, this is my first auto tractor and I like it!

The little skids on my snow thrower (single stange on a 1978 D-200) are about worn out. I was thinking of replacing the skids with a small wheel, adjustable for height. I'm looking at some small wheels, hard rubber tireon about a 4" steel wheel. Has anyone done this on a snow thrower/blower? If so, how well did it work for you? And did the wheel ware out quickly or did it last a while? Thanks for any imput....................................and HAPPY THANKSGIVING everyone!

maybe at idle its borderline too low oil pressure and the light is working fine,maybe the filter you used doesn't flow quite as good as the oem,and the light is sensing this?

Glad it's growing on you because thats a very cool machine ...Curious to see if you get it going..and hope you get it going.

nice score,i would have owned them all for those prices

Glenn, its all trick photography, smoke and mirrors. you should see how it looks without all the photoshopping and special effects....... and if i miss any bad spots, Terry comes through with some great decals strategically placed to cover them up......

Was your jugs siliconed on or have gaskets when you pulled them apart? I tried to put gaskets on mine with good used valves, and it had over .020+ gaps. Removed the gaskets and used silicone and I could now grind the stems to fit .

I'm with Denny, I always look forward to your updates. That is one sweet looking wiring harness! Matt

Lookin real good Martin. Making good progress!

Installed 5 7/16" x 1-1/2" fine thread grade 8 bolts and flat washers from rear of rear hub to form studs. Now to mount wheel is just like a car, much easier. Cleat

This is my little Helper, Bailey my 8 year old daughter and only child. She held the tires from turning on the wheels so the mounting tool would work. Cleat

Rear wheels have been bead blasted and painted. Just have to get the new tires on order then install. Cleat

Was recommended by Click-n-Clack...the tappet brothers. So it must be good. http://www.cartalk.com/

Buckasaurus? Bobasaurus? Better stick with what you got.

If nothing else works, you may want to check my thread here on b 80 transaxle. It wouldn't go into 1st or reverse. The problem was determined to be the ball bearings that pop into grooves on the forks. They had rusted and caused a ledge on the groove that wouldn't let the fork move. Anyway, since you mentioned that there was water in the trans, I thought my experience might help. Good luck with it.

House was built in the 1870's. Installed the Rinnai in Jan and haven't been able to get down there to clean up anything with all the snow piling up on the door. got to do some hoeing out. I didn't take pics of the crawl spaces with more parts. You can just see a hood in the shelf pic.

I noticed that my 2 stage blower was throwing slower over the past few storms. It never really preformed like I thought it should ever since it was hooked up. It would clog up and slow down as it got loaded with heavier snow but the engine didn't sound like it was under load. No burning belt smell or clutch lining stink. Changed the belt anyway but no change so I pulled off the PTO bell. I could see that the lining was glazed and only contacting about 20% of the surface of the bell. So, I took my grinder to the bell to flatten and scuff the surface and used a flat block with 150 grit paper to smooth the clutch lining. WHAT a difference! It will throw that wet heavy snow over the trees now! It's hooked up to a 418 C If your blower is not performing as it should, this may be what you need to do. Single or 2 stage.

If you've just changed your tractor's fuel line and you know your fuel pump is weak, use a turkey baster to draw the fuel up to the carburator. Squeeze the air out of the bulb, insert it into the gas line and release the bulb. It will draw the fuel through the line. Obligatory picture of turkey baster...

So I went to a tattoo convention and this is what I got what do ya all think! lol

Here's what a 56 Chevy 265 mount looks like. From a Napa site. no dememsions given 2 sizes small 602-1044 and large 602-1045. about 5 bucks

Neil, myself did nothing but supply the pieces. Bob is truly a master at buildng these. This tractor conversation started a few years back at one of the shows were we hang out for a few days. He told me buy some tires we'll build one. He's well, what is he? Artist? Creative? Imaginative? Skilled? Talent? He's every bit of that and a whole lot more words could be used to describe him. Where do you start? I'm the lucky one here. The tractors Bob builds are How do you decribe? I know how I feel about this question but I am going to leave this question open to see what kind of responses I get. I say "Totally Awesome"

Mods I hope you will allow this in the Wheel Horse section as I bought these with the intention of one day being able to mount them on a Wheel Horse (unless someone wants to buy them more than I want to keep them). Anyway, these were in the back of an old woodshop (stored indoors) on propeerty a friend of mine recently purchased. Its a nice set of Sears equipment. Any rust you see on the plow or blade just wiped right off with my boot after the pictures were taken. The Sears tags are still attached to each piece and in great shape as you can see. I think the tool bar got some use, and the rake got a little use, but the plow and scrape blade were basically unused. Here are some pics. What do you guys think I need to mount them to a Wheel Horse?

the axle does have full range of movement. the bracket is notched for the axle to move up and down. that is awesome that you might have figured out what model this blade is.

According to a price list dated April 1, 1959, there was a "5 position" BD-42 dozer blade. [offered between the SPR-42 and the HD-42] I vaguely remember discussions of a front-mounted blade with a mount designed to work with the "open" axle (mounted beyond the end of the frame) of the RJ-58/59 and I believe the BD-42 is that blade. The HD-42 has the stepped mounting bracket for use with the cast front axle on the '60/'61 mid-engined models.

Finally got a motor for it. It is still not a k90 but probably as close as I can find. Its a k91 with the 3/4" exaust. I will put a 90 serial tag on it. Does anyone know if if would matter if I change the head? I want it to look right, but don't want it to not run right lol. This will get a complete rebuild probably in the summer when I have some money to put into it. Thanks, Jake

Brendan-just my 2 cents- but take it slow-I agree try the coil- but hold off pulling the head-put a little "Sea Foam" in the tank-warm it up-then richen up your high speed screw- try it, drive around a little and give the Sea Foam a chance to work. Then-if no cigar- Pull the head off-Good Luck-Al

I had the same issue with my 18 auto. I have a 1/2 mile stone drive. I found that the bolts weren't tight enough. I tightened them and never had a problem since then. I ended up having to do the same thing with my sons Charger 12. Neither of them do it any longer. Its worth a shot and then take it off in the spring and drill and put clevis pins in

Update! and progress! Warmed up the garage last night and spent some quality time putting things back together. First order of business was removing the damaged parking pawl. I tried soaking it, tried heading it, even tried to gently tap it out. No luck. I ended up centre punching it and drilling it out of the bracket. For me this went really well. The drill bit managed to go straight and left a little material that came free. Here it is out and you can see how far I had to go to drill it New one installed Next was to install the replacement axle that started this whole repair. Here it is installed. If any one has wondered why it is not recommended to hammer on the wheel hubs to remove them from the shaft this is why - the C clip is all that holds it into the differential. I cleaned and installed all of the gears and the differential. Also installed new grade 8 bolts with nylox nuts in the diff case. New gasket and it is back together Next I went on to the pump. I already had most of this ready to go and was just waiting on the gasket. It went together smooth with the help of the manual. If you look close you can see that I had to get out my "green" 12 point socket for this one. And on to the motor. I hadn't resurfaced the valve plate yet so that is where I started on this one. The rest of it was ready to go so after resurfacing the plate it was assembly time! Again, if you are working on one of these, the manual is extremely important. There are a bunch of little things that have to be done right and oriented properly for these units to function properly. The installation went well. I didn't get a chance to take a lot of pictures of this one going together as I actually forgot! I was having too much fun I guess. The thing to remember when putting the housing on is to have the "webbed" section oriented up or the pump will run opposite of what you want. Here is a pic of the motor together. And from the output side And the pump and the motor back together again And here is where I ended the night. Transaxle, pump and motor assembled, ready to go on the workbench. So, If I'm not on flood duty tonight I hope to clean the hydraulic valve, cylinder and lines on the tractor and start getting things back together for a test run!

http://blog.powerblo...-harsh-winters/

The only thing I would ad that Bob did not touch on (if grinding gears is the problem) is maybe a worn or stretched belt.