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I have one copy that generally sets on top of the toilet. Sorry, I have enjoyed the book immensely but that is where I keep it. I enjoy reading while I am doing my business and I never tire of thumbing through that little book so it is constantly being used. In no way was this intended to be disrespectful of the book or author, quite the opposite I have nothing but the highest regard for both. That said, you asked, and I simply answered honestly.

"The electric PTO does not exert end pressure on the crank." I see your point there. However, in the wheel horse's drive belt and pulley approach, even if the PTO were not used at all, the drive belt and pulley always exert a side wise and backward force on the crank and a sleeve bearing would wear on one side much quicker than a ball bearing that distributes the wear among all the rotating balls. That, by the way, is why the wheel horse brand has more balls than other brands.

What is over paying? If you want a tractor then you pay for it. I don't know if there are any "blue book" values for these tractors. I think that the amount that is paid for a tractor is dependent on a few factors: the amount of cash in the budget, I think that this is the biggest factor condition of the tractor for sale the price of the tractor for sale The bigger the budget the less I pay attention to price. I think that it is human nature to try to get things "cheaper" but not getting the tractor cheaper doesn't really define over paying does it? If there is a tractor out there that you want and it's $800 and you are only willing to spend $500 but buy it for the $800 does that mean you over paid? If I had the money, cost would be no object. But because I don't have the money cost IS the object. That being said, what I pay for a tractor has limits but the fact that I go over my limit sometimes doesn't necessarily mean that I over paid does it? I really hope that this made some sense!!!

Well...at least it's up on pedestal.

There are several types of seeder planters used with different tractors over the yrs. some of them were even built by the tractor makers, but mostly they used either one built by Danville Manufacturing or something built by Planet jr. The Danville seeders are the ones mostly commonly referred to as a David Bradley. Although they were sold by that company, they remained one of the many things out sourced by Sears. These unit have showed up on at a dozen different models of tractor, and are all basically the same except the hitching parts. They use a seed disc that revolves on a shaft powered by a chain to its rear wheel. You normally got 8 different plates and the seeding chart was glued inside the lid, so you could set the rate, via sprockets on the drive wheel and main shaft. There was also a row marker mounted on the top, that swung left or right to help you get the row spacing's better. This type of seeder will singulate the seed as to however many inches you have the drives set for. It works really well for pop and sweet corn, but not so good for peas and beans, and without a brush attachment that usually missing wont do small seed very well. The other common thing to find with a GT is one of the many Planet jr models. The 300, 300A and the 25 are the most normally found ones, again with the proper hitching require by the maker of the tractor. The Jr differs from the Danville, by being either a drill unit or a hill drop one. This means you will have a solid row of plants that you will have to thin out later, or that it will drop several seeds, then skip a distance and repeat that pattern. Only the #4 or 25 have the hill drop parts, the 300 and 300A are much bigger units and are drill only. This makes the 300 serial poor for planting corn product, but perfect for planting any thing like peas, beans, or plants that need a continuous row. It works by having a flat metal plate, with different sized holes in it. You simply align the proper sized hole up and a small auger or brush, pushes seed across it, and out the bottom. I use the 300A all the time in my garden for peas and any bean seeds, and the stands are perfect most of the time. Both of these come in several types of hitching, so you can push one or mount it on the tractor. They also are not fond of trash, ei weeds, trash, rocks, etc. You need to have fairly well worked ground to get a good stand. I collect seeding machines, have a couple dozen different units that I test in the garden each yr. Some work better on some seeds and others not at all.

Did you check the differential for internal damage? (pinions, axles gears, etc.)

Got some goodies in the mail this week so I started on the Wiring Harness. Its just so dern cold in the garage right now, cant do much else. It was -1 here this morning. I messed the first couple crimps up before I got knack for it. Seems you could use 3 hands positioning everything. Im ready for Spring.

Parts are building up,!

Is this what your looking for ??

Not sure how electric vs manual PTO changes the stress on the crank shaft bearings? For the wheel horse application there is a pulley on the crank that puts stress in the crank bearing. If the engine is driving a straight shaft and not a pulley, like on cubs, then there is less need for ball bearings on the crank. The drive belt pulls toward the back and the mower belt pulls toward the front putting stress on the crank bearing. Electric vs manual just connects the mower belt pulley to the crank so I don't see how electric vs manual changes anything relative to crank ball bearing or sleeve. Due to spec variations I would always try to replace wheel horse with wheel horse. For low hour use it probably won't matter.

Same goes for Onan's. When I worked at the local Wheel horse dealer in the 80's I remember changing out 3 or 4 Onan's 16's and 20's because of a shim washer on the crank, these were John Deere Onan's that had a plastic shim washer and would not handle the PTO pressure pushing against it. Tom

in hindsight, you will remember to take pics before disassembly next time? most of the mechanical items placement is very similar from model to model. asking lots of questions or searching for pics is going to be your only option here. i have a few 3,4,500 series tractors and will help with whatever i can, fire away and see what we can do. the pto spring placement is similar over a bunch of tractors, its probably inside the hood stand. look for a hole in the actuating arm for the cotter pin.. if you need a pic of where the other end of the spring hooks to i will try and get one today. google is going to be your friend here too......

I have heard the same warnings on the singles. I don't think it applies to the twins but I frankly don't know. It's been running fine for me for over 5 years. One season it did mowing duty but other then that it only sees occasional use.

If you use a tractor as a worker, then I agree that you couldn't have possibly overpaid compared to what's out there new. If you collect a tractor, then resale value means nothing, and you didn't overpay. If you do both with your tractor, then you're a double winner indeed!! If you bought high to sell low....then you're a loser!

I have always been impressed by my son's wheelhorse four wheel wagon . Great for kids rides and to haul heavy loads like firewood around. However they don't show up very often and when they do they are pricey. Just looking around on Craigslist in my area the other day i came across this pretty close to me but still pricey. Looking for others from same manafacturer I came across same one on eBay. Made him an offer of about half the asking price and within 10 minutes had an invoice to pick it up. Precision Products 17-Cubic Ft Front-Wheel Steering Trailer Cart - $400 (Freehold) Pickup at our Freehold Warehouse New--- There is a small dent on the removable gate of the wagon from shipping. Does not affect functionality. Still easily slides out. Replacement piece can be ordered from manufacture. Please see photos. 17-cubic foot trailer dump cart Tow behind tractor or trailer; includes removable rear tail gate Holds up to 2,000 pounds Solid steel axle with steel bed; maneuverable front-wheel steering Model Number: LC1900

I've always been a woodworker at heart. Even though I could be working on one of my Wheel Horses, I got the notion to build something from wood. I have to back up a little to set up the background on this story. About 4 years ago, my wife and I were at a yard sale. We saw this really cool heavy-duty tricycle and wagon for sale.It is called a Yerf-Dog. We decided to buy it. My oldest grandson showed no interest in it at the time, but when my second oldest grandson was old enough to ride, you could not keep him off of it. Here is a picture of the tricycle and wagon from the original sales brochure (mine is in the shed for the winter, so no pictures). Well, the second grandson and his parents found a knock-off of the Yerf-Dog tricycle at a sale this summer, but no wagon. So for his 5th birthday last week, I built him a wagon. As you can see, it is painted Wheel Horse red of course. The body is made from hardwood plywood and maple. Side rails are from poplar, and the pneumatic tires are Harbor Freight specials. This picture is before the side rails were painted. This is the finished product. Now if you are wondering about the "Zirb-Dog" decal, my grandson's last name is Zirbel. When he got his tricycle, instead of calling it a Yerf-Dog, he called it his Zirb-Dog. So a great big thanks goes out to Terry the Vinylguy for making me these great decals. I just got them yesterday, and put them on the wagon today. So, what do you think?

Many people have been asking me the best way to display and preserve their book. As we know, the books are limited and folks want to keep them nice. Well, I don't know the very best way, but I can tell you that I have all three editions on display in my show room. First of all, I have a copy that I like to keep as my "working" copy. That means that this is the book and DVD that I read and watch. The best way to keep one in perfect condition is to have an extra copy for daily use. My display books are placed in a glass curio cabinet with my memorabilia. I purchased book display stands so the books can be displayed in an upright position. Plate display stands will also work just as well. I have placed several, large silica gel packs in the show case. As far as the proofs and digital copies; I keep those in my safe deposit box. I wish I could store the archives in a safer way, but I have done the best I can. Each and ever document is stored in a non-acidic, clear sleeve with a special cardboard backer for rigidity. The documents are then placed in a hanging file folder,stored in alphabetical order in steel file cabinets. My new stock is kept in a climate controlled garage. I had all the books shrink wrapped in groups of four. The books remain in their original cases on a pallet. The pallet is then shrink wrapped. I have also covered the stack with heavy mil. plastic sheeting. I package one case at a time as needed to keep everything sealed up. I would love to hear how you all display your books. By the way, snow days are a really awesome time to read your book while sipping hot chocolate. Then for lunch have a grilled cheese sandwich and tomato soup.

FOUND IT!! It was hidden near the muffler...I feel quite stupid lol thanks for the support everyone!

Thanks Jack. Fireman (Jeff) came over Friday and helped me drop the new motor in the truck. We had just enough time to get it set in the truck but I still have to bolt the motor mounts down. I plan on pushing it back into the garage tomorrow then taking my time to install the new wiring harness and finishing up the interior. From this point forward will be a slow go but it will be the fun work towards getting it on the road !! Hopefully I will get some pictures tomorrow of the motor installed.

Well it's been said already, I am sure it will be repeated several times over. Yes, been there done that but, it doesn't much matter if someone sees something they can't live without, then it's all over except for getting it home and enjoying your spoils. How many times has this happened? Too many times and still enjoying!!!

What a great thread. I just did the math on my small collection. I don't think I've overpaid for any of them, but..., if a C-175 Series II or a C-195 shows up within 300 miles of me, I'm out the door, towing a trailer with a blank check taped to the rearview.

Forward should be 6-7 mph reverse about 4mph. I would investigate your linkages and the cam plate the eccentric bolt and can can wear and cause these problems.

Can you imagine the knowledge within the last 7 replys, sure is great for future problems. Thanks guys Rick

Man that cracks me up.

Uh Ohh, not quite as simple as I hoped it was going to be. sounds like I'd better really do my homework before buying another KT17. Thank you Paul. You may have saved me alot of unnecessary extra expense and frustration. I also have another Wheel Horse on the back burner. A 1995 520H. This is why I am asking questions here about the KT17. The 520 needs an engine, and I do not want to go back with an Onan.

There is nothing wrong with the toilet for reading (LOL). Although on Seinfeld they would say it was Red Flagged! I'm may enjoy reading mine in there later!

With KT series one engines there are differences!! Wheel horse specified 2 ball bearings on the crank shaft. John Deere did not, just sleeve bearings on the crank. That is why when I used KT 17 from a JD 317 to repower my C-175 I had to change over to an electric PTO to avoid end loading on the crankshaft. Now in Series II it isn't as clear. From what I have seen series II did not use ball bearings. Only one engine variant used a needle thrust bearing and washers. The rest seemed to use just a sleeve bearing with a lip similar to non ball bearing series ones. Bottom line you better look up the spec number of any motor you plan on using and check the parts manual. You maybe looking at needing an electric PTO or an external thrust bearing that WH used on some Twin B&S motors that didn't have ball bearings.

Tall shoots work great! I can finally throw snow over my bushes!

My guess is that you need pipe dope. When I restored my 701, I put a new sediment bowl on and it kept seeping. I had used pipe dope on the nipple from the tank to the bowl, but i had forgotten to use it on the fitting where the gas line attached.

It might interchange the lower legs are thicker than the GT14, I believe the GT14's lower legs are 5/8" wide where as the D series is an 3/4" thick. I don't think they are exact copies but close. The down links are totally different also. Do you know exactly what year tractor your dealing with. I might be able to help on a hood and or other pieces, maybe.

I don't believe when "kevmor40" made his post he found any issues with members commenting on his great find, in fact most people enjoy when others tell them how well they did. I believe he even "liked" a a few comments which would indicate to me that is likely true. I really dont believe because we didn't respond to his answers that we were "off topic" as his questions were in the story of his find.I'm not very familiar with the GT 14's but I "believe" I remember reading that their three point assembly will interchange with the D series three point except for a couple of parts. Hopefully someone else will clarify. Kevmor40, There are some vendors that will likely chime in with what they have or PM you if they have what you need and you can also put a listing in the wanted section if you haven't already.

I appreciate how welcoming and jealous everyone is, but not a single person has mentioned a single word about his question. He has asked twice now and nothing. Please keep this on topic! I dont know much on the GT14's but here one of our members made his own links

You are going to love it.

I certainly wouldn't let money stand in the way of my progress.

everyone i touch is overpaid in the end........

Thank you for answering that question about the Cub engine transplant. Where I am coming from regarding these non Wheel Horse spec engines is this; I have read on forums there is a big difference in the single cylinder Wheel Horse spec Kohlers vs. the non Wheel Horse spec Kohlers. That big difference is the Kohler spec engines have a bearing on both ends of the crank, and the non WH spec engines do not. Please correct me if I am wrong about what I just said. Anyway if that is the case, I am wondering if the same thing applies to the KT-17 series 2 engines? Again, just in case one of these engines happens to come my way I would like top know if this is something I need to investigate before buying. Any thoughts on this???

My dream. A Wheelhorse with a loader on it. I agree with theOP about leaving something like that out to rust away. Sounds like it is in good hands. Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

This should work for you Mr. Moto

Well not much of an update to give but here we go........... I can honestly say that we have missed more school the past month than we have been here at school. North Central Indiana is having quite the nasty weather like so many of you are also enjoying. With all of the cancellations we are still hibernating and chomping at the bit to get the ball rolling again. This past Wednesday we planned to meet to work on a special project in the computer lab but unfortunately school was cancelled that day. We are planning to try and meet up this coming Wednesday and see what we can get accomplished. We have caught wind of a very special essay contest involving a B-80 tractor. The kids are going to work on a submission in hopes they can win in order to provide a machine for the club for next school year. The barn is almost complete. I have not had the chance to make it back down to see the progress or lend a hand lately but from what I am hearing the last thing to be done is having the floor painted a shop grey color. The lights are up, the heater is mounted, garage door is installed, siding is all on, insulated and painted walls, electric is all complete.........pretty much all done. Now we have piles and piles of snow where this new building is supposed to be located. We are hoping for a miracle to be able to get this thing up here. Please stay tuned and thanks again for following along on our journey!

first off, welcome to redsquare and Koen

Excellent info Andy . I have often bought parts from US & have also had 5no complete tractors imported to UK , The UK vat charges & import charges can be a killer i find that the parts are cheaper in US so it either balances itself out or sometimes it can be cheaper to buy from US even though the postal & tax charges are added Good topic

Always wondered what a torque curve looked like.

I started out the day with the blade and made one pass and I was having traction problems (first time for that) and I knew I would not be able to roll the windrow without tearing up the lawn in the process, so I put on the blower, in those pics Im throwing what I had rolled with the plow and what had fallen on the ground, I was creeping along and the 16hp Kohler was on the governor hard. After the first pass I was flying, that single stage was eatin snow,,, This 40yr old tractor is No slouch!

Nope. Did I say it was a bad day? No heat in shed ! Hoping it is just a spark plug on the 520H. Have not looked into it yet. Might wait till it's warmer out. Not much of a poster but plan on changing that. Plenty of nice people here!

personally what i think you guys are calling fair value is too low, i would pay more if i needed one, knowing what i know about their capability. For what they can do to help maintain your property and for how long they will still last if maintained, they're cheap say you pay 500 for a tractor, plow and deck; how much would you spend in one year on having your driveway plowed and your lawn mowed? when you take that into account is $1000 cheap for something to get these tasks done? to mow my lawn would cost $75-100 per week. (I have about 35,000 ft2 of lawn) just plowing for this storm at my house would be over $100. it's about $40-60 every time they show up this storm would have been a couple of visits mine have paid for themselves many times over if you are collecting them to fix up and drive around at shows then you may consider them expensive. You will put alot into them making them look better than new

My greatest fear is .....when I'm gone, Hun Bun sells my WHs for what I told her I paid for them.

I don't EVER over pay for any tractors....EVER! My wife believes that my barn is chock full great deals!!!!

My laptop bit the dust, but before it did,I bought a Hisense Sero 7 inch tablet at Walmart on sale for $79. It ain't fast or flashy, but it gets the job done. I'd love to buy an iPad, but I can buy another Wheelhorse or two for the $$$'s.... ;)

Well its been a year to the day since I brought it home from Ohio. It took me that long to get this far but it has been fun and a learning process from a bunch of you fellows here. Thanks for all the tips and pointers. The tractor is 98% done. Now its time to open the Kohler up. It ran when I removed it. Just a bunch of oil leaks everywhere. If everything works out, this one will wear the snowblower.

I have been looking for about a year on and off (but not seriously due to funds to purchase). Well last night I came across an ad on CL for this 1949 Chevy 3100. It is from Kansas and all original and untouched. As you can see from the pictures it needs some work but I really like the year/model and color of this one. The last time this was registered was 40 years ago (the year I was born in 1973). Someone took the time to seal off the carb and gas tank with plastic. The motor is looked up but I think it should free up with a little work. Either way I think the motor will be coming out in the spring or earlier for a refresh. I have no plans of repainting this truck. At most I will clear coat it and maybe some touch up of old pinstriping. I am really looking forward to this project. It actually looks pretty good next to my new mini barn....