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I have one copy that generally sets on top of the toilet. Sorry, I have enjoyed the book immensely but that is where I keep it. I enjoy reading while I am doing my business and I never tire of thumbing through that little book so it is constantly being used. In no way was this intended to be disrespectful of the book or author, quite the opposite I have nothing but the highest regard for both. That said, you asked, and I simply answered honestly.

"The electric PTO does not exert end pressure on the crank." I see your point there. However, in the wheel horse's drive belt and pulley approach, even if the PTO were not used at all, the drive belt and pulley always exert a side wise and backward force on the crank and a sleeve bearing would wear on one side much quicker than a ball bearing that distributes the wear among all the rotating balls. That, by the way, is why the wheel horse brand has more balls than other brands.

What is over paying? If you want a tractor then you pay for it. I don't know if there are any "blue book" values for these tractors. I think that the amount that is paid for a tractor is dependent on a few factors: the amount of cash in the budget, I think that this is the biggest factor condition of the tractor for sale the price of the tractor for sale The bigger the budget the less I pay attention to price. I think that it is human nature to try to get things "cheaper" but not getting the tractor cheaper doesn't really define over paying does it? If there is a tractor out there that you want and it's $800 and you are only willing to spend $500 but buy it for the $800 does that mean you over paid? If I had the money, cost would be no object. But because I don't have the money cost IS the object. That being said, what I pay for a tractor has limits but the fact that I go over my limit sometimes doesn't necessarily mean that I over paid does it? I really hope that this made some sense!!!

Well...at least it's up on pedestal.

There are several types of seeder planters used with different tractors over the yrs. some of them were even built by the tractor makers, but mostly they used either one built by Danville Manufacturing or something built by Planet jr. The Danville seeders are the ones mostly commonly referred to as a David Bradley. Although they were sold by that company, they remained one of the many things out sourced by Sears. These unit have showed up on at a dozen different models of tractor, and are all basically the same except the hitching parts. They use a seed disc that revolves on a shaft powered by a chain to its rear wheel. You normally got 8 different plates and the seeding chart was glued inside the lid, so you could set the rate, via sprockets on the drive wheel and main shaft. There was also a row marker mounted on the top, that swung left or right to help you get the row spacing's better. This type of seeder will singulate the seed as to however many inches you have the drives set for. It works really well for pop and sweet corn, but not so good for peas and beans, and without a brush attachment that usually missing wont do small seed very well. The other common thing to find with a GT is one of the many Planet jr models. The 300, 300A and the 25 are the most normally found ones, again with the proper hitching require by the maker of the tractor. The Jr differs from the Danville, by being either a drill unit or a hill drop one. This means you will have a solid row of plants that you will have to thin out later, or that it will drop several seeds, then skip a distance and repeat that pattern. Only the #4 or 25 have the hill drop parts, the 300 and 300A are much bigger units and are drill only. This makes the 300 serial poor for planting corn product, but perfect for planting any thing like peas, beans, or plants that need a continuous row. It works by having a flat metal plate, with different sized holes in it. You simply align the proper sized hole up and a small auger or brush, pushes seed across it, and out the bottom. I use the 300A all the time in my garden for peas and any bean seeds, and the stands are perfect most of the time. Both of these come in several types of hitching, so you can push one or mount it on the tractor. They also are not fond of trash, ei weeds, trash, rocks, etc. You need to have fairly well worked ground to get a good stand. I collect seeding machines, have a couple dozen different units that I test in the garden each yr. Some work better on some seeds and others not at all.

Did you check the differential for internal damage? (pinions, axles gears, etc.)

Got some goodies in the mail this week so I started on the Wiring Harness. Its just so dern cold in the garage right now, cant do much else. It was -1 here this morning. I messed the first couple crimps up before I got knack for it. Seems you could use 3 hands positioning everything. Im ready for Spring.

Parts are building up,!

Is this what your looking for ??

Not sure how electric vs manual PTO changes the stress on the crank shaft bearings? For the wheel horse application there is a pulley on the crank that puts stress in the crank bearing. If the engine is driving a straight shaft and not a pulley, like on cubs, then there is less need for ball bearings on the crank. The drive belt pulls toward the back and the mower belt pulls toward the front putting stress on the crank bearing. Electric vs manual just connects the mower belt pulley to the crank so I don't see how electric vs manual changes anything relative to crank ball bearing or sleeve. Due to spec variations I would always try to replace wheel horse with wheel horse. For low hour use it probably won't matter.

Same goes for Onan's. When I worked at the local Wheel horse dealer in the 80's I remember changing out 3 or 4 Onan's 16's and 20's because of a shim washer on the crank, these were John Deere Onan's that had a plastic shim washer and would not handle the PTO pressure pushing against it. Tom

in hindsight, you will remember to take pics before disassembly next time? most of the mechanical items placement is very similar from model to model. asking lots of questions or searching for pics is going to be your only option here. i have a few 3,4,500 series tractors and will help with whatever i can, fire away and see what we can do. the pto spring placement is similar over a bunch of tractors, its probably inside the hood stand. look for a hole in the actuating arm for the cotter pin.. if you need a pic of where the other end of the spring hooks to i will try and get one today. google is going to be your friend here too......

I have heard the same warnings on the singles. I don't think it applies to the twins but I frankly don't know. It's been running fine for me for over 5 years. One season it did mowing duty but other then that it only sees occasional use.

If you use a tractor as a worker, then I agree that you couldn't have possibly overpaid compared to what's out there new. If you collect a tractor, then resale value means nothing, and you didn't overpay. If you do both with your tractor, then you're a double winner indeed!! If you bought high to sell low....then you're a loser!

Had to Shovel and I mean S H O V E L all day at work. We got 3 inches in 45 min at one point. Boss was begging us to stay late. Then the snow stopped and we got to go home on time. OH GOODY!! I get to go home and play on the Horses! Should have known better. First I got some brand new Carhartt Extreme bibs. Nice and toasty but slippery and stiff. Got out to the shop and fired up the 160. Warmed up the hydro and was cleaning around the dumpster and I tripped and fell over the blade and almost bashed in the hood. Then getting on my slippery coveralls plus a slippery seat I slid and nudged the motion lever. Plow hits my overhead door sensor. I fix that. Then I plow some ,take a video and decide I need to get out Marvin and the blower. Get it out and want to shoot a video and the phone dies. Charge the phone and blow the driveway. Shoot a short video blowing the frt. walk. Battery dies quickly. It would have been an epic vid as I got a good plume going. Got to the end and went to back up and the tractor stops and spins The bolt for the chain attaching the mower lift bar came out and now the bar is wedged into the walk and lifting the tractor off the ground. good thing phone is dead or I would have had to take an embarrasing picHad to go get a small jack to get the bar out.Replaced the bolt. Gloves are soaked. Finish up plowing. Went to lower plow and plow won't go down. Trip spring is hanging. A hitch pin came out. Replace spring and pin and I notice the opposite spring rod is falling out and missing a clip .! Never had this happen ever. Got it all done. Got Elvis out to pile it up. Almost didn't want to in fear of what could happen to that tractor. Couple of vids and pics. The daylight ones are what was waiting for me when I got home. The dark one you can almost see one of the piles Elvis made.

FOUND IT!! It was hidden near the muffler...I feel quite stupid lol thanks for the support everyone!

Thanks Jack. Fireman (Jeff) came over Friday and helped me drop the new motor in the truck. We had just enough time to get it set in the truck but I still have to bolt the motor mounts down. I plan on pushing it back into the garage tomorrow then taking my time to install the new wiring harness and finishing up the interior. From this point forward will be a slow go but it will be the fun work towards getting it on the road !! Hopefully I will get some pictures tomorrow of the motor installed.

Like Terry said...we think the damage is in the differential...you have to lift that out and open it. If you lift it out and try to turn the axles, and you can't or you hear the grinding...you have found your problem. Everything else looks OK. Thanks for the picks.

What a great thread. I just did the math on my small collection. I don't think I've overpaid for any of them, but..., if a C-175 Series II or a C-195 shows up within 300 miles of me, I'm out the door, towing a trailer with a blank check taped to the rearview.

Forward should be 6-7 mph reverse about 4mph. I would investigate your linkages and the cam plate the eccentric bolt and can can wear and cause these problems.

The issue is the end loading with a manual PTO. When you engage the PTO you are pushing in on the end of the crankshaft. Ball bearings can handle some of that sort of loading. In a sleeve bearing all there is a thin lip of metal at the end of the sleeve to take the load. Probably would work for awhile but I doubt that WH went to the extra expense of specifying ball bearings in Series 1 KTs, needle thrust bearings in series 2, and external ball bearings on some B&S motors if they didn't think there would be an issue. The electric PTO does not exert end pressure on teh crank.

Man that cracks me up.

Uh Ohh, not quite as simple as I hoped it was going to be. sounds like I'd better really do my homework before buying another KT17. Thank you Paul. You may have saved me alot of unnecessary extra expense and frustration. I also have another Wheel Horse on the back burner. A 1995 520H. This is why I am asking questions here about the KT17. The 520 needs an engine, and I do not want to go back with an Onan.

There is nothing wrong with the toilet for reading (LOL). Although on Seinfeld they would say it was Red Flagged! I'm may enjoy reading mine in there later!

I use thread sealer on all fittings, yes where the pipe fits in the tank and where the bowl screws on to the pipe.

Alrighty then, thats good news! It may not apply to the twins because they are of course two cylinder, higher horsepower and appx 45 cubic inches in displacement. My engine rebuilder friend (Kevin) called me last week to tell me he is just about ready/able to get started rebuilding a K341 that goes in an almost cherry C-165 8spd I have. Next time I see him in person I will ask him about whether or not the KT17's have crank bearings on both ends or not. I'll keep you in that loop. Have a great day! BTW, I'll be posting pics of the C-165 as it goes back together.

Tall shoots work great! I can finally throw snow over my bushes!

It might interchange the lower legs are thicker than the GT14, I believe the GT14's lower legs are 5/8" wide where as the D series is an 3/4" thick. I don't think they are exact copies but close. The down links are totally different also. Do you know exactly what year tractor your dealing with. I might be able to help on a hood and or other pieces, maybe.

You can get pipe dope at a hardware store cheap. The rubber seal is important and should be good. Unscrew and re-screw the glass bowl to make sure it is fitting perfectly tight. seepage can occur from the old tank around the valve but I will bet the rubber gasket is dried out, crimped or sometimes the valve rod tightner is damaged ,

I don't believe when "kevmor40" made his post he found any issues with members commenting on his great find, in fact most people enjoy when others tell them how well they did. I believe he even "liked" a a few comments which would indicate to me that is likely true. I really dont believe because we didn't respond to his answers that we were "off topic" as his questions were in the story of his find.I'm not very familiar with the GT 14's but I "believe" I remember reading that their three point assembly will interchange with the D series three point except for a couple of parts. Hopefully someone else will clarify. Kevmor40, There are some vendors that will likely chime in with what they have or PM you if they have what you need and you can also put a listing in the wanted section if you haven't already.

Did you use any pipe dope on the fitting or install dry ?

You'll need to take a better look at it and determine the cause of your leak. It could just be the gasket but if you just want a new one, you can still buy them. http://www.psep.biz/store/small_engine_fuel_filters.htm It's not a bad idea to also add a fuel filter in there too. The sediment bowl will filter some water and anything larger than the screen holes but anything smaller than those holes could pass into the carb.

I appreciate how welcoming and jealous everyone is, but not a single person has mentioned a single word about his question. He has asked twice now and nothing. Please keep this on topic! I dont know much on the GT14's but here one of our members made his own links

I certainly wouldn't let money stand in the way of my progress.

Please do!!

Transmissions scare a lot of people because there are a lot of little parts in them. But they are really pretty easy, especially if you have the manuals and exploded diagrams beside you. Once you've done the first one, you will wonder why you were afraid. Good luck!

first off, welcome to redsquare and Koen

WOW, a GT-14 AND a loader for $100! Ever once in a while a 3pt will show up for sale on here. Good luck!

you've certainly come to the right place. One day I'll be walking along somewhere and ............. (hasn't happened yet but live in hope) That wasn't just a deal, it was a steal! Look forward to seeing some photos of the project as it progresses. Andy

That is why I use the truck key for my ears!

Always fun when good deads can involve using tractors!

Excellent info Andy . I have often bought parts from US & have also had 5no complete tractors imported to UK , The UK vat charges & import charges can be a killer i find that the parts are cheaper in US so it either balances itself out or sometimes it can be cheaper to buy from US even though the postal & tax charges are added Good topic

Always wondered what a torque curve looked like.

I started out the day with the blade and made one pass and I was having traction problems (first time for that) and I knew I would not be able to roll the windrow without tearing up the lawn in the process, so I put on the blower, in those pics Im throwing what I had rolled with the plow and what had fallen on the ground, I was creeping along and the 16hp Kohler was on the governor hard. After the first pass I was flying, that single stage was eatin snow,,, This 40yr old tractor is No slouch!

personally what i think you guys are calling fair value is too low, i would pay more if i needed one, knowing what i know about their capability. For what they can do to help maintain your property and for how long they will still last if maintained, they're cheap say you pay 500 for a tractor, plow and deck; how much would you spend in one year on having your driveway plowed and your lawn mowed? when you take that into account is $1000 cheap for something to get these tasks done? to mow my lawn would cost $75-100 per week. (I have about 35,000 ft2 of lawn) just plowing for this storm at my house would be over $100. it's about $40-60 every time they show up this storm would have been a couple of visits mine have paid for themselves many times over if you are collecting them to fix up and drive around at shows then you may consider them expensive. You will put alot into them making them look better than new

Will never happen...if they all go in the box with you.

I don't EVER over pay for any tractors....EVER! My wife believes that my barn is chock full great deals!!!!

Never been a good speller Craig! Anyway here he is. I just need to order the new gauges to assemble the dash, assemble the throttle assembly and fab a battery box. When it gets warm the front bumper will get a make over. The Kubota in the background burned up it's pto clutch in about 50 hrs due to lack of hyd pressure from the factory, may have to split that one and fix it due to Kubota's attitude.

its getting there Scott...... i envy the fabrication skills and equipment you and Tom have. i get by with what i have, but it would be nice sometimes to get a little more serious with the heavy duty stuff.... looking forward to more progress. hope you have fun out there getting some seat time in......

My laptop bit the dust, but before it did,I bought a Hisense Sero 7 inch tablet at Walmart on sale for $79. It ain't fast or flashy, but it gets the job done. I'd love to buy an iPad, but I can buy another Wheelhorse or two for the $$$'s.... ;)