Leaderboard

Really Martin... you expect someone here to admit in public, they have a short one?

I think you mean that oil is leaking by the brake shaft...and not the transmission case halves. The brake shaft seal is SKF 7410 available at NAPA or motion industries. The WH# is 100441 if you go to TORO. Take off the brake band and the brake drum. You can dig out the seal with an awl...it is only about 1/8" thick. Once you get the seal out...check for up/down and side to side play in the shaft to determine if the bearing is OK. You should not really have any play. If all is good, file any burrs on the end of the shaft and key way (could ruin your new seal). Some of the guys like to put some tape on the shaft and then slide the seal over that. You can use some tubing that fits over the shaft, or a hammer and punch to tap the seal back in.

everyone i touch is overpaid in the end........

We got 8" of the heavy snow on Monday and 1/2-3/4 " of ice on Wed. Many roads still closed and and power outages in this area .

This is too absolutely COOL!!!! I wish I could re-enroll in elementary school (get an advanced degree?). I'm going figure out a way to work a Harrison Elementary Garden Tractor Club decal into the 1/25 scale Electro project.

I had that same motor in my 67 Chevelle. It ate the 350 Camaros and 340 cudas up easily. Gosh I miss that thing.

Humm, just a thought... better be careful using any cheap azz toilet paper too.

i went searching and think i found the listing for this tractor. I'm sorry but i don't think the description on the listing was deceiving at all. it wasn't very thorough..... Wheel Horse C 165 lawnmower comes with snow blade and front and back wheel weights. Mower does run . It has a Kohler engine . I will help load on your truck or trailer or could deliver for a fee . it can be picked up in PLYMOUTH INDIANA 46563 CASH ON PICK UP ! and they did give you additional info about the engine..... i would not have just bought it for that price without looking at it first or at least getting some opinions on here first. that price is way more than i would have paid, but its not really out of line for what i see tractors go for on that site. as far as condition goes, its not in the best condition, but I've bought worse ( but also for less money). most of the rust is surface from what i see, the left cover is pretty bad and probably needs to be replaced, but the condition overall is fairly typical of tractors that age. same with parts missing. these machines have been around a few years now and its getting harder to find good examples on the lower end....... this forum and its members are here for help and advice, just need to ask..... i think the whole deal should have been handled differently from your end, you did go in blindly on a tractor that the owner was not really telling you anything untrue...... heres how you need to handle it from here on out......... forget about what you paid for it, its over and done with. fix the tractors problems and enjoy it. you have a capable tractor there once running right..... or, restore it to its former glory and show it off as one of your collection. but, don't forget to ask questions and opinions, thats what we are here for......

Interesting idea too, can't wait to see 'em.

I have a set on the rear of mine made by the original owner who was a machinist. There is a smaller set to bolt to the outside of them that I may make into front weights in the spring. With the rears loaded and the bigger weights, I have no traction problems. I can get some pics and measurements over the weekend and post them for you if you want.

those chairs are from his living room ( needed room for the flat top). Work horse is outside until a plumber comes to remove the WaterCloset!

Flip your rims, put the valve stem on the inside. Save youself some work, and clean up the design of your weights.

longer is almost always desired for the under seat fuel tanks. But I have noticed on the older tractors, they have the short one. I don't want to dig to find the dipstick just to check the oil level.

Good gravely! That's some serious snow!!! Great video too!

This should work for you Mr. Moto

IF THIS WAS CLOSER I WOULD DONATE A TRACTOR TO HELP OUT. I GAVE A WHEEL HORSE TO A TECH. SCHOOL IN R.I. THIS PROGRAM IS WHAT THE KIDS NEED TODAY.

Sounds like you need to gather all the wheel horse owners within 100 miles of you with snow blowers to have a ground breaking snow blowing ceremony and make you a nice big open space.

I know this is a longshot but is there anyone on here going to this show in Fort Meade,Florida? If so,I would like to meet some of you that do.I realize most on here are northern to Florida but you never know.......

Uh oh! I think I used those stickers to dress up my new tub cart.

I found a lot of my play came from that spur gear. They were sloppy from the factory. Also if you get down in the block underneath where your forward steering shaft goes through. It does not take much wear there to become sloppy. There were a lot of those blocks with grease Zerk's in them but they never drilled the hole all the way through. They should have been rejects but somehow they got through. The next time you grease it check to see if grease comes through. If it does not, it might need drilled.

Chop's a little on the smaller side too, but will work his two big brothers into the ground any day!

that's where I left it ,, ,,lol . Great find and And as always pic pic pic lol

Oh yea, Welcome to Red Square. Remember to get us those pictures.

I'll say, that is like catching a 10 pound bass or taking a 12 point buck on your first trip out. It just spoiled you. You likely won't find a deal that good ever again.I'm sure some on here are going to call you a horse thief!

It really sounds like this isnt something you should tackle without some better guidance than through written responses here. Along with installing rings - which in itself has to be done in a certain manner - the crankshaft, rod, valves , lifters and other areas should be inspected for wear and taken care of at the same time. Is there not someone you could get to give you hands on guidance? I have done several engines but I still like to have my buddy come over and the 2 of us check every thing over.

Sweet Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congrats. Sounds like you got a heck of a deal!

Thanks pal. You guys will never believe this. I bolted my starter back up when I got back from the repair shop and..everything works like a charm. Why didn't it work before? I have no idea blows my mind honestly. I have no explanation for it.

Fire- welcome to RS and nice pics.....

He would have been 69 today. . .

Hi SpecWH, Being a resident of the 'Big State' and close to Dallas (lucky Man), I'm sure your TV Channels have plenty to cover being part of a 'Big Country'. Over here, we're in for yet another 2-3 days of wet windy weather and probably more Coastal damage and inland flooding. Here's a news link if your interested:- http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-26042990 Regards

I did the project about 5 years ago, the only thing i remember having an issue with was the muffler output. I reused the original Cub muffler as I did not have a WH one, I cut off the outlet and welded a plug over it. I then put in a new outlet in the center of the muffler facing out the side of the tractor. I reused the grass screen from a K301 as the Cub had a huge hole in the center for the dive shaft. Some minor wiring changes and I had to source parts from a C-175 to make the PTO work as I wanted to retain the shaker plate. Also a new belt guard was needed that I fabbed up out of Stainless Steel. Although if you starting with a C-175 or a 417 you won't need all the PTO parts. My tractor started out life as a 1981 C-125.

What he said ... Wheel-N-It I love the way they sound ( series II engine), have one as a winter project if I ever talk myself into getting into it just trying to make it run. Sure got rid of alot of material for you. Good luck with it

Hello and

good to see more euro people coming to the site Koen

Here's Marvin minutes before the the mower deck lift bar to chain bolt fell out causing the bar to drop and lifting the rear tires off the ground!

Sarge sent me this 1277 dash all blasted and primed. got busy and designed a template last night and made a few prototypes today. this is his dash with the decals installed. Also attached a picture of the decal before install. they consist of three layers of media. 2 layers of laminate and then laminted to the brushed chrome vinyl and contour cut. I will be shipping your dash back soon Sarge. Thank You

Heres part 2 of the snow team…my 1973 18 Automatic with a 60 inch blade... Its at my Dads right now because we just finished fabbing the the plow linkage and installed the factory front wheel weights but I plowed 7 inches with it yesterday and it was like it didnt even know it as there. I wish I could have gotten it to the farm here with 14 inches of snow coming,[attachment but the Charger 12 will have to clear the half mille driveway

Red paint in spray cans can cover all types of sins!

I've seen 70 HP farm tractors that won't pull those out sideways in frozen ground. Chain them to a 3pt hitch and pull strait up and they come out easy. Better yet pull em strait up with a backhoe or dig beside them get under and pop them up with the bucket. Dad and I cleaned out a 1/2 mile factory fence one year on rented ground we broke a lot of equipment and chains because we did not have a backhoe at the time.

Here you go... It was under child no.2's bed Hopefully it shows the way the drive couples, gearboxes are similar copies of WH ones

just got dizzy from reading 1533 posts and thought id update a little. can't work on the trans yet, still waiting on a j1816 axle bearing. mocked up the steering tonight with an extra 6472 flange bearing placed on the upper hood stand right where these tractors have an issue with loose support. i have seen other methods of retention here, but decided this was a compact way of tightening up the upper steering shaft. steering still needs adjusting but i can already feel that everything is nice and smooth, and tight. new lower bearing, nice tight gears and fit on lower part of shaft in steering bracket. heres some pics of the flanged bearing and steering. i included the red stool in this pic, just to show its getting used......

Remember, It's a ? Clean it up, and do your maintenance before you go jumping off the roof.

Dont get too dispondant with her , enjoy it for what it is or until a better one comes along near where you live & then you will have plenty of parts , Infact alot of the fun is getting them in this condition & then turning them into real good workers , at least you saved it from the scrap man .

I used the SeaFoam® spray, my first using this product. I am now using the liquid adding to the fuel tanks. I am impressed!

Martin, by all means as Tankman said, "Use some Seafoam". It worked for me also. I mixed one ounce per gallon and wow what a difference in my 417A and Ariens Zero turn after only one tankful each. I then repeated this mixture for another tank and there was more improvement in both machines. I'm sold on this stuff now.

Nice Horse! I had a few Horses carryin' on some probably from lack of use. Tried SeaFoam® in the carbs, smoke, WOW! After a while, clear 'n clean exhaust. My '85 416-8 (Kohler one cyl) and my '90 520-8 Onan (two cyl), are both purring now. Some needle adjust and SeaFoam® did the trick. Try some if you haven't already. Liked the results so much added some to my old pickup trucks fuel tanks. We'll see. Again, "Nice Horse!"

Had a Piddley Snow Last Night So This Morning I Piddled a Bit and Broke in My Grand Daughter Henny as My New Camera Man errrr um I mean (lady) Some Snow Is Better than None I Guess. And at least heres a few pictures of it doin what its suppose to do, than getting pictures of it in the Shop.

had to fab up a battery tray as the one on the tractor was really rust pitted and edges were eaten away from battery acid. if some bolts were welded on and a battery clamp piece made up im sure it would be usable, just not on this tractor......... anyway, heres a few pics of the fab process, the bending was all done by clamping a heavy block of steel and folding against it, and using other smaller strips of steel to get it formed properly. then it was just a matter of welding a strap on the back and making one for the front to bolt on. then some bolts for bolting to the frame were attached and two for the holding strap were welded as well..... heres the pictorial..... first i cut out a piece to make up the main part of the tray allowing for the small bends in the bottom.... then i had to figure out hold to do the bends in the bottom, i bent up the innermost bend first, then placed a strip of steel about 1/8 thick underneath and folded back down to form the close double bend. then repeated for the other side...... completed bottom of tray....... now it was time for the side bends to form the finished tray, these were both simple 90 bends. the whole tray needed a bit of tweeking to get all the bends looking ok. man, i miss not having a sheet metal brake for these types of jobs....... time to bend up a back strap and weld it on....... then install some bolts in the bottom, make a strap for the front and weld some bolts on for that and were done...... time for a test fit...... and ready for some paint......