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Hello! I joined this forum pretty recently and I'm probably not the typical forum visitor. I build scale models - usually 1/25 cars - and I've been working on an Electro 12 model. BTW, many of the model cars that I build are my favorite car and another South Bend native - Studebakers. I found this site while searching online for reference photos and manuals. It's a great place with a lot of excellent resources. Reminds me a lot of the Studebaker Drivers Club forum where the members have always been very supportive of my model building. Makes me want to have a real Wheel Horse (and a Studebaker). Anyway, this is where it all started: Probably not many people are more interested in the Wheel Horse than they are in the Indy Car but I'm building the tractor and may never build the car. The tractor in the kit appears to be Charger but after looking over this forum for a while I decided to convert it to the Charger's cousin - a 1969 Electro 12. I had already built the engine as it came in the box but I realized it wasn't correct for this tractor. This is what the first build-up looked like: So I stripped the paint off and did a conversion: The next order of business was building a mower deck since the kit didn't have one and what good is a Wheel Horse without it! I downloaded the manual for a 5-1422 (Thank you, Forum!) and started scratchbuilding. This has been a lot of fun! Here are a few shots from the build-up and the finished mower: The paint is Duplicolor Bright Red which is a GM color. I bought some IH Red at Tractor Supply but didn't really like the drying properties of the paint. The GM Red matches it very well and in fact I brushed on a little of the IH color as touch-up paint in a few spots and can't see the difference. Duplicolor is my preferred paint. It dries fast and hard. There's certainly more to come. I hope you enjoy. Most of the other major components are under construction right now and will be ready to post soon.

spent a relaxing afternoon putting together the 8 speed. i think these transmissions are my favorite mechanical item on these tractors to rebuild. simple and compact, i like doing them much more than any engine. this is my second unidrive, first was the 3 speed in the 1057. the 8 speed really isn't any more difficult, just a few extra pieces inside.... i used the manual and followed along step by step with assembly. when i stripped it down the manual was used as well...... before starting on putting it back together, all burrs from gears were removed, all shafts polished and everything was cleaned in diesel. heres some pics of the assembly and finally bolted to the frame. i guess i need to go spend some money on some tires now for the 12 x 8.5 rims, then the 416-8 will be on all fours for the first time...... axle bearing and seals going in. i ended up putting two 11050 seals back in, much the same as was previously except the oem seals were plastic and the 11050 seals are steel. the seals are approx 0.120 wide so i sunk the inner seal to approx 0.200 so that the lip of the outer seal wouldn't interfere with the inner seal body once the axle was inserted in it and pushed it open more. both seals in place...... input shaft was used to push in input seal. I've found sometimes these smaller seals are hard to get started properly, it helps to also file any lip off the leading edge of the steel part of the seal and also make sure the bore in which its going is burr free. the input shaft helps to get it started right and even and push the seal home flush. seals all in the right hand side of case (smaller half) ready to be flipped over and build the internal part of the trans.... trans all ready to be sealed up, gears and shafts all installed and all positions tested to make sure its going to be a successful rebuild. notice the stool is being used again, Steve..... left hand side on and ready to be bolted down. i couldn't find a torque setting for the case bolts in the manual, so i used the case bolt torque from the eaton 1100 manual, basically the same castings. that was 30-35 ft lbs.... transmission finally bolted up to frame....... all in all was a most enjoyable afternoon!!!!

The 3 speed...4 speed...6 speed and 8 speed transmissions all have the same gear ratios...that is...the high range of the 6 and 8 speed transmissions are the same as the 3 and 4 speed. 1st gear is 66.8 2nd gear is 42.4 3rd gear is 24.6 and reverse is 51.5 in all of the wheel horse transmissions. The low range ratios are the same in the 6 as well as the 8 speed transmissions. low 1st gear is 267.2 low 2nd gear is 169.6 low 3rd gear is 98.4 and low reverse is 206.0. If one tractor is faster then the other, it is because of engine or input pulley sizes, or the size of the tires could change the speed, or your engine RPMs. The internal gear ratios are all the same. Advantages... If you are in low 1st gear, you have time to unmount the horse, go into the house for a cold beverage and come back and get on the horse and the horse only went 10 feet. One other application for using a low range gear might be using a snow blower.

I like driving my 857 3-speed because it is 6/10ths of a mph faster.

Hi 3rd is the same ratio as 3rd in a 4 speed. All the extra ratio's are in the low range, slower than 1st in a 4 speed. I have very seldom used the low gears in any of my 8 speeds. Tilling and using a sickle mower are the only tasks I can think of where the low speeds are necessary. As Martin just said, the strength factor is mainly in the axles/differential package. Both 4 and 8 speeds come with either 1" or 1 1/8" axles. The 8 pinion diff is generally considered the strongest, followed by the 4 pinion, 10 pinion and the bevel gear diff which is considered the weakest. I have heard that there were some 8 pinion diffs produced with 1" axles, but I have never seen one. My opinion is that a 4 pinion diff is plenty strong enough for all the normal tasks. As far as I know, all 10 pinion and bevel gear diffs came with 1 1/8" axles. So my thought is that unless you are tilling or using a sickle mower, there is no real need to change to an 8 speed.

Many thanks to everybody for the very kind words and warm welcome to the forum. I didn't expect all this! I hope to get a lot done on the weekend so this is probably a good time to respond to some of the questions and comments. Is the spec plate painted or a tiny chrome and black decal. It's a homemade decal using the computer and inkjet printer. I make most of my own decals (all of them for this project) based on images that I find on the internet. After printing the decal I applied it to bit of adhesive backed aluminum foil and then to the engine. What did you use to build the deck? The deck is almost all made from various shapes of styrene stock available at most hobby shops. It took sheet stock, rods, tubes and quarter round of various sizes. There's also a little bit of 1/32" brass rod used. By the way, do you have any full size Wheel Horses? No. In fact, my lawn has so many obstacles that using a riding mower might be more trouble than it's worth. On the other hand, I could ride around the neighborhood on my Wheel Horse if I had one. I love cool mechanical devices and it would be a lot of fun to have an Electro or something. I have a hard time working on a full size one. MIne only has to look like it runs! What else have you built? Mostly cars in 1/25 scale and a few 1/32 scale. I love Studebakers but build lots of others, too. Here's a few samples: I call that one the "Cowboy Cadillac". 1963 Studebaker Avanti 1953 Studebaker Commander Starliner Customized 1953 Stude The "Slant Six Slingshot" 1934 Duesenberg Okay, I'm not showing you the ones that didn't turn out so well! Thanks again, everybody.

The Isle of Man UK TT Motor Cycle race Known as The Greatest Show On Earth . Every year this event takes place Well worth watching http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D09yD0MN4Vg

can't say i agree with this statement. if all external things remain the same, the gearing between the non hi/lo boxes and hi/lo boxes in the hi selection is the same. am i wrong here transmission guys?

Denny and Craig Beat me to it! Ha this Red Square gang is loaded and ready!

Nice mower! Mine gets used a few times during the summer, but I wish it was back on a hydro tractor or 6 / 8 speed. The 3 speeds are geared too fast for thick weeds or working around steep banks.

This was forwarded to me in an email today FWIW thought I would share. For those of you who actually try to repair some older and rusted equipment, the following just might help you out. Worth the short read. Penetrating Oils Machinist’s Workshop Mag™ recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted†environment. Penetrating Oils ........... Average torque load to loosen* No Oil used .................... 516 pounds WD-40 ....................... ... 238 pounds PB Blaster ..................... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench .................127 pounds Kano Kroil ...................... 106 pounds ATF & Acetone Mix............53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix is a “home brew†mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this “home brew†released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that “Liquid Wrench†is almost as good as “Kroil†for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF & Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

These machines are about half done. Theay run great now and one has Matt's foot control. Also shown is the snow blower. I also have the 60" mower deck and mid mount grader blade. Cleat

A hobby I took up about 15 years ago, is Redline collecting. Redlines are the old Hot Wheels made from 1968-1977. I stay in the 68-72 years, we call them the Spectra-flame era. Spectra flame was the candy colored paint jobs they used to use then. After that they went with enamel paints, which are nice also, but I stay with the Spectra flames. Here's some 1968s, these were made in Hong Kong. Here's the same 1968 models that were made in US. Camaros are one of my favorites. Here's some 1969s. These are a mix of HK and US cars. 70s. 71s. I don't have a group shot of 71s, so these are the Olds 442s. Very desireable casting. 72s. Plus some of us like to go for what we call Rainbows. Collect all the colors of one casting. These are my Chargers. I also recently got into what are called unspun cars. These are basically cars that were not put together at the factory. So they are very hard to find. These are actually unpainted,and unspun. A little blurry in front..sorry bout that. Just a taste of what I have here. Also have the Rumblers,and Sizzlers,and Chopcycles that were Hot wheel related, and were released in the same era. My Photobucket album is public, you can look around if you like. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rdln%2A66/library/ There are several message boards around to chat redlines. One I'm involved in is called Chickluu's fabulous redlines. Membership by application. I'm a mod there. Not sure if the guidelines allow me to post another message board here. If so, I can add it later. Appreciate any questions, or comments. If you have any old redlines you want to share, then by all means..post away! Thanks. Frank

Found this interesting, something I never thought about

Well i got the call that a guy was going to scrap this beatiful wheel horse tractor. I called the guy who own it and with dealing back and forth on a price on price we finally came up with a deal. He told me if i called in couple days later he would of taken the tractor to the scrap yard. The tractor is looking rough but has a lot if potential to become alive again. The rear deck is in great shape and all the spindles all move freely. The snowblower is locked up and has some small rust holes but seems with a little tlc it could be a good worker again. The left over tiller shield is in good shape the gear box was open up for sone reason. Otherwise im keeping the D200 tractor and decks and the snowblower and tiller parts will be up for sale. Today was a good day......

By the way...what did you have to give to get all those fine pieces?

Glad you saved such an awesome machine from the scrap yard! Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Awesome find, if i was you i would keep all the attachments! They don't come up for sale to often. Any who...excellent find.

Yeah that was a good worthwhile save. I hate seeing these good old machines go to the scrap yard. It really makes me kinda angry to see that happen.

Has Jeanine seen what you have done to her favorite rug?

Good save! Those rear tires look aggressive. Mike........

Cup holder!

Here is a picture of his casket being towed down the highway. Imagine passing that on the freeway. http://fox8.com/2014/01/31/mans-wish-comes-true-to-be-buried-on-his-harley/

Not creepy... I'm taking all my tractors with me.

Hers the wheelie bars all paintes

Oaktown...I just got used to not wearing them...never really did. If I go ice fishing...of course socks are in order. These guys make a bigger deal out of this then it really is. Nothing against socks...I do what is easy.

My 875 would win the snow plow competition just kidding would lose bad Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk So stevasaurus do u not like socks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Icees Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like the 8 speed and it's hi/low. Low range is handy for trimming while mowing in very tight places, when I use to have ramps for truck loading, I use low range. I generally moldboard plow in 3rd gear low and low range is handy when creeping the tractor around in the basement. I've used low range for pulling woven wire tight on a garden fence installation and it's handy when blowing deep snow. One of my disappointments with my IH Cub Cadet is that low range was an option, standard I guess on 10 plus hp Wheelhorse tractors - another Wheelhorse advantage.

This tractor has had a stack on it for about 25 years now. Has not broke or cracked. Most Kohlers the nipple is so rusted into the block you can not get it out. I'm no expert but just my

I like them, just a little too ambitious at the moment... :)

That is cool! The 5.2L I have is also quite the sleeper. Mine has a 3.5" lift so it is not as "predictable" at speed and I have little seat time. It is my Wife's winter car to replace Her 02 Mustang GT. I got this for $700. Has 150K on it. PO thought the trans was bad but it was a bad u-joint. I have a 242 transfer case I got for $50 to replace the full time 249. Jim

There may be a difference in the input gearing due to the pulley sizes, I've never done the math. Internal gearing is the same. A little early in the morning for me, but I'm thinking that .6 mph is 10%?!!

Old boy scout trick was to use a 9v battery and steel wool to start a fire.

Craig, There's a company near me that has been making tents since 1875, they might have something. Search " Armbruster Tent Maker"

Another saved Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah Dino, I like the snow after being stationed for 3 1/2 years in Louisana and that bloody heat and humidity. We have had two melt offs this season and still have this, I would have a phd (piled hi-er and deeper) if that never happened. My boy P'Chop is loving plowing on his Ranger even if the Techy is past it's useful life span, he prays for it to start every day while awaiting spring rebuild on it. As the banks are taller than he is, all he can do is stage piles for me to get rid of with the blower. As SousaKerry says we usually get pounded in Feb so this may get a little interesting, but the lake levels should be up this summer!

Here's a video on rebuilding a roller bearing. I see that reinstalling the cage could be hard, Maybe Charlie an chime in here on that procedure

we have a lot like the first post,add some wind and its been a nightmare,my county(dufferin)is under a state of emergency,and im in Ontario where were kinda used to 3 or 4 feet of snow

like this? Koen

Yes I do buddy.

Kevin, I think this is the belt cover that Lane is talking about.

Been collecting diecast my whole life...storage tubs, and bins full of MOC HW's, and JL's here. Most of my Spectra Flame collection consists of about twenty, loose Open Fire Gremlins, but they're squirreled away so far, I can't even put hands on 'em anymore. Then, I was off the deep end for the longest...collecting all of the AMC slots that Aurora had to offer too. Of course, any of the loose RWB cars...are going to be the special one's in my collection. I then, one day...discovered AMC was the parent company of Wheelhorse tractors, and I've been adding heavy red metal to my AMC collection ever since.

I have a pretty good idea why shifters break, and I seriously doubt it has anything to do with a locked differential. I can see axle key & hub problems, stripped/broken pinions and axle gears, and broken differential bolts, but the "front half" of the tranz should hold up just fine.

And after getting my Work horse running, EricJ noted that the Eaton 1100 in the Work Horses had the Toro Consumer 108320 GEAR 22T DRIVE just like the later 520-HC. My 1988 520-H has the 20 T gear. The Work horse is a lot faster!! Rj24: clean her up, change all the fluids and filters and you should have nice rig.

Actually its a 1 1/8" axle same as my 1988 520-H, same Eaton 1100 tranny, hubs are part # 105763-03

WELL ... You Guys asked for it ... So here ya go... enjoy...

Did he say snow angels?

Yes, it's not good weather for painting and drying outside.... So I've had to come inside Missus is just about used to it.