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Finally was able to go get my pair of 857s for 150.00 today. They need a little love but are complete except for one deck missing a lot but it will be used for parts. Engines are free so this should be an easy fix to get one running. A lot of you may think this was a great deal but I find myself regretting ever seeing them. It will take a LOT to make one useable. That involves time and money. All belts are rotted. The SGs will need attintion all cables and idler pullys frozen plus who know about the deck driveline. I will have to think hard before dumping them to hopefully get my money back. I think these horses turned out to be "nags".

Probably a neck brace, and his other arm's in a sling.

My son's partner gave me the following photos taken around 1980ish. Her family owned Hasley Manor and Morton Manor on the Isle of Wight at that time. Her uncle is tending his horse while her grandfather looks on at Morton Manor Another uncle cleaning the wheel of his steed at Hasely Manor. Please don't bother sending begging PMs - the money in her family all went a long time ago! Period photos of WHs like this seem quite rare so I thought I'd share them. Andy

They have grown on me when they run right their really fun I pull everything with my little ranger

A few months ago, I would have jumped on the tecky-hater band wagon with some of the rest of you, but after a few months of owning a C-160 with an OH160 Tecky in it, I've decided I really like this one. It starts as easy as my Kohlers do, and runs really strong! Matt

If the clearance is too tight you can burn a valve as it doesn't contact the seat correctly and seal the cylinder properly. The fact that the noise changes as you adjust them points to it being a valve / tappet noise. Sometimes with a used valve or a used lifter (If the ends of each haven't been reground square) you can end up with a surface with a ridge in it that makes it difficult to measure the clearance on with a feeler gauge. Onan twins can trap you on this one. From memory of the Kohler singles, I don't think its likely on a Kohler. I work on 100 year old Automotive engines where the clearance is .002" on the intakes and .004 on the exhausts. Its not uncommon to have to run thru the clearances 2 or 3 times to get them quiet, .001 too big and they're as noisy as hell.

After being on order for a month it finally came in. Before After

X2 on the fifth hole in the mounting plate being for the lift cable on the hydro tractors. The "serrations" on the differential end cap are probably chatter marks from the tool used to spot-face the "pad" where the nut seats. The object of the game is keeping the through-bolts tight. High-quality locknuts and thread locker are your friends. Here's what happened to a friend's '86 417-8 tranz when a through-bolt decided to pass under the ring gear:

looks like you have to use Snap-on tools if you want them to run rite

You think that guy is wearing a tie??? I can't tell in the picture. I like the band aid by his left thumb though.

just do a search on Amazon for led 1156 replacement and you'll have several choices. they are expensive at autozone

Back in October I picked up a nice 857. Didn't know if it ran or not because the carburetor was missing, but the overall condition of the tractor was good. So, I brought it home and put a rebuilt carburetor on it. It started and ran great with the exception that it was a heavy smoker. I haven't decided whether to leave the metal as-is, or do a complete repaint, but I knew that something had to be done about the engine. So two weeks ago, after the single-digit weather warmed up and the snow melted, I removed the engine and began my engine rebuild. First observation after removing the head revealed a lot of carbon, and some oil sitting on top of the piston. The cylinder did not look bad, so I measured it with my new bore gauge. The cylinder was still within the acceptable tolerances of a STD bore, There were no scratches or ridges, so the decision to just hone it made sense to me. So, I just received my new Ball Flex-Hone yesterday, and that will be the next step. My local, very reputable but expensive machine shop charged me $125.00 to hone the cylinder, lap the valves, and polish the crankpin last year on my K161, so I decided that $35.00 for a Flex-Hone was a good deal. The crankshaft didn't look bad, so after removing it, I measured the crankpin. 1.185" and no out of round. Since 1.185 is the maximum wear limit, I decided to Plastigage the crankpin to connecting rod clearance. I got a measurement of .003. Since the maximum wear limit is .0025, I pulled out a brand new Kohler connecting rod that I had purchased earlier and Plastigaged the clearance with that. I got a measurement of .0175. So based on that, I am installing a new rod on the old crankshaft. Since I am not sure of the source of oil burning, I measured the valve guides. Tolerances were also within specs. The intake and exhaust valves were not bad, just dirty, but the intake valve had about .001" wear on the stem. So I have decided to install a new set of Kohler valves. I lapped them in, and they are now ready to install. The piston also looks real good. It measured within acceptable specs, and also is not scratched or scored. A new set of Kohler rings should solve the oil burning problem. Okay, that it for now. As progress is made, I will update.

I have fond memories of my grandfather's Wheel Horse when I was growing up. It has always been a dream of mine to restore his old horse. This Christmas I drove up to the old family farm in Indiana from Tennessee with a trailer in tow to rescue if from rotting away behind the shed. To my horror, I found it to be GONE! Whether stolen by someone who appreciates what they got, or God forbid by a scrapper I don't know. All I have are my memories and a dream of one day finding one just like the one I lost and restoring it in my grandfather's memory. I looked through a stack of old photo albums and found this one old picture of my dad on it back in the 80's. Can anyone tell me what model it is? I'm rather ignorant of Wheel Horse history and any information would be greatly appreciated!

Like the title said I decided to sell two things from my Wheel Horse collection. First is my Wheel Horse sign that I got from a local dealer, I'm really sad that I'm selling this one. The second piece is my little B111 tractor. This was my first actual lawn and garden tractor and the start of what became my current collection. I'm sort of happy to see it go since I just don't have the time to do anything with it anymore. I haven't touched it in almost 2 years now. They are both going to a good home and a fellow Wheel Horse collector so that makes me happy. You may ask why I'm selling and that is because I have found a car that I want to buy and I need to start raising the funds to buy it.

Yeah Boy, I want one too. Maybe some day........................

Man...that Techy's on steroids.

Where's the AMC Rules "Rear-View Mirror" photo? There is a fellow on YouTube that has a motorized wind screen on his Burgman. Just the thing for cool weather. Looks nice - now you have me thinking about some wheels!

220 400 600 grit emory and crocus cloth. Carb cleaner with spray nozzle. Air blast hose source. Kerosene as solvent / clean agent. PISTON & SLIPPERS: One by one, remove each piston from cyl block and progressively reface "wax on...wax off" the brass slipper until scars and scratches are GONE. A magnetic base stand-alone magnifying glass is a bonus to inspect finished surface. When done polishing one, spray carb cleaner to clear the tiny pin-hole in center of slipper. Set it back into the same cylinder and proceed to the next piston, full circle of the cyl block. Take care...be meticulous and don't rush. Also take care to NOT round the edges of the brass slippers (no radius on edges). As you work with each of 9 pistons, inspect the sidewalls of each. Some scuffing may be present but there should not be any chips or dents at all. The slipper retainer can't be twisted or any of the 9 holes slopped out. VALVE PLATE (swash palte). Using a circular motion, scuff the bass side it of first on 600 grit, just to show where the scratch and gouges are. With any luck, they will polish out using the 600 grit, but I've had some that took the 220 grit to start, the progress to crocus cloth. The base of the clyinder block spins on the brass side of this plate so it is IMPORTANT to make it perfectly smooth, or it will again gouge the valve plate. THRUST PLATE (sits atop the brass slippers). This is hardened steel and requires precision grinder to resurface. It likely has near micro-scopic scratches, which is enough for HOT oil to bypass. The 9 slippers spin on this so it must be perfectly flat for the same reason as the valve plate. GEROTOR assy: Both sides of it have to be smooth, and each of 2 parts the same thickness. This sits in a round cavity on the back of the Charge Pump housing and the cavity is only slightly deeper than the gerotor is thick. So, if you grind a tenth off of the gerotor assy parts, then you must also grind a tenth from the back of the Charge Pump housing to maintain tolerance. PUMP END CAP: Lay it flat on surface plate and slide back/forth on emory paper to remove all signs of former life. Remove (save) all the O-rings and backup rings, then resurface the top of it in the same. The gerotor MAY have gouged this and all signs of the scars have to be removed. That's about the extent of refinishing surfaces, now do it again with the HYDRO MOTOR. It has nearly identical parts and the surface refacing is about the same. Use the kerosene to flush parts clean as you are working with them and set components aside in a plastic bag to keep clean. These Sundstrand Hydro units a highly susecptable to dirt of any kind so it is of UTMOST IMPORTANCE to keep your work area clean, and to flush clean every part / assembly as it is reworked. When reassembling the pump and motor unit, have at-hand a little bottle of RED Engine Assembly Oil. Put a drop or two of this RED oil on mating surfaces just so they are not bone dry when the whole thing is given the initial test run. Also note the location of the pin in the Charge Pump Housing. It must be oriented down...toward the motor. It can be mounted 180 deg out of phase, then nothing will work. Enjoy Here are a few pics that MAY be of assist:

As soon as I can figure how to explain it to the mrs. Any tips or pointers? Glenn Endless possible lines come to mind: 'We found another in the woods and I've been given this one.' or 'It was the only size they had in stock and I'm getting so much more for my money' or perhaps 'Haven't you always told me to think big!' Seriously Glenn, that tractor's got D owners and D owner wannabes droolin'. Andy

You said that you just rebuilt the engine. What all did you do? Did you do it yourself? Did you replace the valves or have them ground? Did you check to see that a valve seat may be loose? Did you have the valve guides measured to make sure that they weren't worn?

Every 8-pinion differential I have pulled,,Being in an 8-speed or a hydro the locking nuts have been on the bolt side and not the nut side...if you needs parts to fix I have them on hand... Mike.

Did you have the piston on TDC of the compression stroke?

I'm thinking that this is what happens when you outsource work to a photographic studio. That's probably a Snap-on advertising poster on the wall and the nearest outfit they had in wardrobe was a dental surgeon's. Andy

congrats neil

I tried to adjust the original, but didn't get very far. I see what could very well be a (1962) 552 That is based entirely on the shape of the foot pedal & the Tecumseh engine / headlights.

Right,sorted and paid You are correct with the non WH section I do indeed have a collection of non WH machines, wasn't sure if they were relevant here ?? That was fast, I seem to have turned red...

I too would like a working board, with working lights, LED or otherwise. I do like the lcd display with lots of good info. Once I chase the other electrical issues down, and rebuild the tranny, it's next on the list.

I think they run just fine.

It's a major award. It should go right in the front window.

If you do decide to bring the cultivator... I'm pretty sure it won't last long.

OK thank you I will check into this tomorrow and let yaw know if everything looks good or not

I am starting to like the way a lot of them look without restoration. In fact I now regret restoring one of my old rusty horses.

I normally get them from Motion Industries or Applied Technology. But here they are at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Koyo-M-16121-Bearing-4300rpm-Rotational/dp/B007EDRR98

Take a look at this picture. When you have the shifter removed, looking down into the transmission, this is what the shifter forks should look like in neutral.

Would be interesting to see what the rear axle bracket looked like...must be a problem there??

I keep going to the garage to see if it has shown up here yet and is mating with my SK486. Yours looks so much nicer I think the offspring would look good. Marvin

Do you have the price paid for the tractor when new? I don't known of any other tractor models sk/sb with the plactic wheels.

In the Cross ref link I post above has the cross over to # 1532 Torrington # M-­â€16121 MOTION IND #00090903 Hopes this helps

Did you check the cross reference post

Hey maybe this is a new line of off-the-grid products from Kohler.

Awesome picts... are you quite sure the money is all gone?

Here's my team.

Got the D 200 out two days ago and went down to my neighbors house to help him move some compost. Two or three buckets in I had another seal fail and started leaking badly. I had only had time to get one of the cylinders repaired this past summer and knew I was on borrowed time. I used the loaded several times thru the summer with no leaks but the cold weather had it's way with the old brittle seal. One thing of note from the teardown. I relayed some information previously in this post about the backing rings for the "O" rings that had been told to me by the hydraulic repair guy. He said that they didn't need to be replaced as they just support the "O" rings. I will now disagree with him as that is exactly the part on the piston that failed and I would replace with new if they show any signs of wear. The seal supplier where I picked up my new parts recommended different types of seals for the piston and shaft seal and said they were much better than the "O" rings so that is what I bought and figured I would give them a try. Note the "T seal" for the piston is almost shaped like a tri rib tire and the backing rings come with the T seal as a kit and are split for getting them in place easily. These seals are made of a harder type of plastic except for the wiper on the outside of the end cap which seems a bit softer. The seal on the outside of the end cap is a standard "O" ring with a backing ring. Please note I was buying parts for three other cylinders but they didn't have everything I needed so the quantities are not correct for what you need. Here are a few pics with the invoice for part numbers I'll get these new seals installed and report back if I have any problems.

This One Used To Do It. But Now It's My Back Up. This Chucker Took Over The Duty.

I didn't mean etch primer I just meant use 2k to mist over everything to give the paint that matte, etched look so hopefully scotch bringing wouldn't be needed..I like the idea of the alcohol. I'll get some. If I get the cross fire top coat to match my primer, will I need to scotch brute everything again? It recommends 600 grit sanding primer before applying top coat..

Must have missed this topic the first time around

i will be using my 416H this year for the gravel and sidewalks down the street.. and my ariens 24" walk behind blower tackles the real deep stuff....... it just loves this stuff, remember throwing it at least 20ft each side of the driveway on this snowfall, which was our freak storm ( for quad cities winters) 2/11....... if you look at the pic below, just about all the thrown snow is out of the pic either side.....

The front bucket on the Kwikways and the D Series loaders are huge! I'll have to look at Matt's footpedal conversion again. The steering wheel motion lever is a pain with the loader but the ARK doesn't give my size 13 footwear much room as it is. As a safety feature though.........it is almost impossible to run the loader controls and the tractor controls at the same time without steering with my nose! (Which I vowed never to do again)!

"Elvis"

Ok. I tested the compression and I have between 85 and 90 PSI. I did start poking around with the plug though and it seems as though I'm not getting a good consistent spark. My next step is to investigate that.