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i went searching and think i found the listing for this tractor. I'm sorry but i don't think the description on the listing was deceiving at all. it wasn't very thorough..... Wheel Horse C 165 lawnmower comes with snow blade and front and back wheel weights. Mower does run . It has a Kohler engine . I will help load on your truck or trailer or could deliver for a fee . it can be picked up in PLYMOUTH INDIANA 46563 CASH ON PICK UP ! and they did give you additional info about the engine..... i would not have just bought it for that price without looking at it first or at least getting some opinions on here first. that price is way more than i would have paid, but its not really out of line for what i see tractors go for on that site. as far as condition goes, its not in the best condition, but I've bought worse ( but also for less money). most of the rust is surface from what i see, the left cover is pretty bad and probably needs to be replaced, but the condition overall is fairly typical of tractors that age. same with parts missing. these machines have been around a few years now and its getting harder to find good examples on the lower end....... this forum and its members are here for help and advice, just need to ask..... i think the whole deal should have been handled differently from your end, you did go in blindly on a tractor that the owner was not really telling you anything untrue...... heres how you need to handle it from here on out......... forget about what you paid for it, its over and done with. fix the tractors problems and enjoy it. you have a capable tractor there once running right..... or, restore it to its former glory and show it off as one of your collection. but, don't forget to ask questions and opinions, thats what we are here for......

My son's partner gave me the following photos taken around 1980ish. Her family owned Hasley Manor and Morton Manor on the Isle of Wight at that time. Her uncle is tending his horse while her grandfather looks on at Morton Manor Another uncle cleaning the wheel of his steed at Hasely Manor. Please don't bother sending begging PMs - the money in her family all went a long time ago! Period photos of WHs like this seem quite rare so I thought I'd share them. Andy

Back in October I picked up a nice 857. Didn't know if it ran or not because the carburetor was missing, but the overall condition of the tractor was good. So, I brought it home and put a rebuilt carburetor on it. It started and ran great with the exception that it was a heavy smoker. I haven't decided whether to leave the metal as-is, or do a complete repaint, but I knew that something had to be done about the engine. So two weeks ago, after the single-digit weather warmed up and the snow melted, I removed the engine and began my engine rebuild. First observation after removing the head revealed a lot of carbon, and some oil sitting on top of the piston. The cylinder did not look bad, so I measured it with my new bore gauge. The cylinder was still within the acceptable tolerances of a STD bore, There were no scratches or ridges, so the decision to just hone it made sense to me. So, I just received my new Ball Flex-Hone yesterday, and that will be the next step. My local, very reputable but expensive machine shop charged me $125.00 to hone the cylinder, lap the valves, and polish the crankpin last year on my K161, so I decided that $35.00 for a Flex-Hone was a good deal. The crankshaft didn't look bad, so after removing it, I measured the crankpin. 1.185" and no out of round. Since 1.185 is the maximum wear limit, I decided to Plastigage the crankpin to connecting rod clearance. I got a measurement of .003. Since the maximum wear limit is .0025, I pulled out a brand new Kohler connecting rod that I had purchased earlier and Plastigaged the clearance with that. I got a measurement of .0175. So based on that, I am installing a new rod on the old crankshaft. Since I am not sure of the source of oil burning, I measured the valve guides. Tolerances were also within specs. The intake and exhaust valves were not bad, just dirty, but the intake valve had about .001" wear on the stem. So I have decided to install a new set of Kohler valves. I lapped them in, and they are now ready to install. The piston also looks real good. It measured within acceptable specs, and also is not scratched or scored. A new set of Kohler rings should solve the oil burning problem. Okay, that it for now. As progress is made, I will update.

A few threads ago in the Implements and Attachments forum 'Sybesma07' posed a question about dating a 10 cu. ft dump cart / trailer. Despite the low res photo from an ad I guess, I recognized it as looking remarkably the same as one that I’m restoring at present, the thread is here: It also made me think of the research I’d done into dating carts like this which I thought I ought to complete and share so here it is. The information was pieced together from the Toro Lookup site, the Wheel Horse Interchange document, and cart manuals from the RS repository. If you have any corrections to make or have photographs to offer then please do chip in. --------------- In 1976 the range of WH trailers available was expanded from just the 5 cu ft dump cart and four wheel wagon to include 10 and 18 cu ft dump cart models. The 1976/7 10 cu ft model (10DC01) is distinguishable by the fact that it had a tubular draw bar. It had the red / white WH decals (large on the sides and small on the rear panel) and I strongly suspect the loading decal (21) was also red / white. -------------- Literature for the 1978-80 models (also designated 10DC01) shows that the tubular draw bar had been upgraded to a C section rail. Despite a new decal design having been introduced for the 1978 range of tractors like the C-121, the diagram shows that the red & white WH decals were retained certainly for a time. I suspect that this was a way of using up old stock. The example that I’m restoring has a large WH decal on the tail panel rather than small but does have the newer style black loading warning sticker. --------------- The 1980 – 85 model was designated 10DC02 and incorporated a further change of design in that the draw bar spacer (12) in the previous diagram which bolted to the tub bed was redesigned and now bolted to the front panel of the tub (see below) This diagram shows the new C-121 style decals for the sides. The fact that no decal is shown for the rear panel is probably an omission from the diagram as it is shown on the 18 cu ft model. The catch has also been redesigned to suit the new spacer bracket. ---------------- Attachments and accessories lists for 1986 model tractors indicate that WH dropped trailers from its range completely at this point as manufacturing of them at South Bend had ceased. I suspect that pricewise they could no longer compete with third party manufacturers. Although trailers are not listed on the Toro site for specific tractors from 1986 the Interchange document shows that during 1985 WH started buying in trailers from Ohio Steel (who continue to make attachments under contract for well known names today). Trailers listed from 1985 onwards included the following dump carts: a 4 cu. ft., two 7 cu. ft. (one with a sloping back), a 10 cu. ft, a 17 cu. ft. and an 18 cu. ft. I guess that this represented the Ohio Steel range at that time. These were given simple product codes like WH4 (4 cu. ft. cart) and these codes are not recognized by the Toro site. There were no four wheeled wagons. Out of interest, 1985 also saw WH start to buy in various other attachments e.g. sweepers from the Lambert Corporation and the 10†Moldboard Plow from Ohio Steel. It is possible that there was some kind of collaboration between WH and Ohio Steel in terms of carts prior to 1985, I say this based on the fact that the Ohio 7 cu. ft. with sloping back (designated WH7-1 in the WH range) has a pretty much identical trip lever to my 1978 WH 10 cu ft cart. Looking at this photo posted in another thread by 'varosd' it also seems likely that the first Ohio Steel 10 cu. ft. carts made for WH would have been welded rather than bolt together construction, perhaps the tooling was transferred. --------------- So where do the 10 cu. ft. WH carts that look like the Agrifab bolt together models fit into the story I hear you ask. Well, a search of the Toro website for ‘carts’ brings up some models for which no years are given and no diagrams are available. A complete list can be found in the Interchange publication where they are listed as: 79900 4 cu. ft. Cart, 79901 10 cu. ft. cart, 79902 14 cu. ft. cart, 79903 17 cu. ft cart These are also listed by Toro as being manufactured by Ohio Steel so I think one can guess who still makes the 10 cu ft carts for Agrifab. Trawling through the compatible tractor models listed in the Interchange document it would appear that Toro WH did not introduce matching tractor models to specific outsourced products (like the Ohio Steel carts) in all of their documentation until 1993. . 1990s WH 10 cu. ft. cart by Ohio Steel - photo from a post elsewhere by 'AMC rules' There are marked similarities between this tub design and other generic carts were badged up for a number of well known names; examples I’ve come across include ‘Lambert’ and ‘Husqvarna’ though there are other differences. Could this just be the evolution of the cart by Ohio Steel or are these carts by another manufacturer? Knursen has suggested to me perhaps by Lambert. Does anyone have a Toro / WH badged trailer exactly like the one above? Out of interest the Toro Lookup site’s list of the later ‘bought in’ carts includes a 10 cu ft ‘poly dump cart’ – has anyone seen one of these? Anyway, hope all of this may help others date one of these carts. I don’t imagine there are many good examples of the 1976 – 1985 South Bend produced examples around anymore, certainly here in the UK most that have come up for sale in the last couple of years (only a handful at that) have been the later Ohio Steel type. Sorry for not including much about other sizes of carts in this potted history but this took long enough - perhaps some other time when I'm feeling inspired. To conclude for now a couple of pics of the 14 cu. ft. cart made for WH by Ohio Steel and posted elsewhere by 'wh5208speed' Andy (obsessed, or possessed perhaps, by carts at the moment)

Hi to everybody! I'm Sergi from Pradell de la Teixeta, Catalonia. Finally, after so many weekends of work I post my Wheel Horse 702 restoration. Although it's not completely finished, I'll post several photos of the progress and completion. To get started I will show you how It was a few months ago in my garage... My great grandfather was adapted the stirrups with an old iron piece to better position of his feet. The pieces were very rusty and the seat had been repaired in any way. Just because it hold.

Remove the bolts holding the gas tank to the hoodstand and remove the assembly from the tractor. Clean all paint, rust, etc. off the shaft from the lock collar down to the end, loosen the set screw in the collar, and slide it to the gear at the bottom of the shaft. Slide the tank down as far as it will go and clamp the upper (unseen) part of the shaft in a vise. Twist (rotate) the wheel - using a bar wrapped with a rag, a piece of 2X4, etc. inserted through the spokes / rim for leverage. Once it starts moving, you should be able to pull/twist it off of the shaft. If you have no vise - or that doesn't work....... Drive the pin out of the bottom gear and carefully tap the gear off the steering shaft. Use a little heat if necessary. Remove the lock collar and pull the steering wheel and shaft up out of the gas tank. I have a 3/4" hole in the top of a steel table that I slide the steering shaft down through until the underside of the wheel is against the table. Anything similar that will support the steering wheel should be fine. I use a big drift and a 3lb hammer to drive the shaft down out of the wheel on the easy ones. If that doesn't work, they go visit the hydraulic press at the shop where I work.

I just bought this tractor on ebay and I pretty much got swindled. They only had two pictures and a very short description. The seller sent me more pictures which showed just surface rust and told me it runs and drives and smokes a little on start up. They did deliver it 250 miles for me, which was nice of them. In the end it was my fault I guess for no due diligence. The drive belt has a huge chunk missing out of it and the engine pulley looks like it has an entire belt melted on it. Turns out this this smokes like a freaking steam locomotive (to their credit it DOES run, but I dont know HOW). I can turn the engine over by hand and I hear something scraping. Either the drive pulley is rubbing on the case or the bearings are really shot. I havent taken the head off to see what it might look like inside, but I saw white corrosion on the valve you can see inside the spark plug hole. Wires are bare, the fuel line is run UNDER the tractor and hangs down out back. Where the dash support meets the frame under the belt guard is rusted bad. Opposite side guard over lift cylinder. I am hoping and praying the hydro is in decent shape. it did move and seemed pretty strong. Missing the cooling fan of course. The lift cylinder worked but looks like it leaked. The lift control valve is rusted and will probably wear the seal out before long. I am going to need lots of moral support and help from you all! My C-125 I bought on here was in much better condition and half the price. I hope this is worth something extra because it was only made two years. MORAL: Do not make an ebay purchase on passion. I really wanted a "big block" kohler with an eaton, but I should have held out for one from here or that I looked at personally.

OK Mike so the PO was probably thinking to himself " let's put an in line fuse and tape it all up and hide it for Mike to have to pull his hair out trying to figure it out"

The first thing that I repaired, was the seat. And I have to find a replacement for the Choke and Throttle cables.

Reputable Economical Dependable Satisifying Quintessential Ubiquitous Ameliorating Reliable Eloquent

Success, Stevasaurus was spot on with his suggestion to soak the knob in hot water. Why does this work?-because the coefficient of thermal expansion of nylon is greater than that of steel-when the nylon is warm, the inside diameter gets bigger. Of course this is easier said than done since you cannot get the PTO lever off the tractor as it must be removed from the inside of the hood stand and the knob obviously cannot be on it. So I wrapped a dish towel around the knob, held it in place with two rubber bands, and poured a quart of not quite boiling water on the dish towel and let it sit for 3 minutes. I took off the towel and with my bare hands I was able to get it off in about 15-20 seconds!

I use the bike rope/pulley hangers in the off winter seasons to hang my cab up by the ceiling in my garage. In the spring, the bikes come down and the cab goes up. I can walk under it without banging my noggin, of course a tall ceiling is good to have too. -BK

I think wires with tape on them would be the first place to look...just my 2 cents. Glad you found it Mike. Try sitting those new points at .018. Cheese Head

I guess I'm lucky. I've worked with harsh chemical all my life, never using gloves. I have been told many years later that the chemicals that I used are metabolized by your liver, and that I will suffer the results of my misuse later in life. So far, so good. I have a physical every year with blood work specific to liver function. Don't get me wrong, I am not condoning the mishandling of chemicals, I am just saying that I don't know if I have problems waiting for me later on, but as of now, I am okay. Having said that, I do wear latex or nitrile gloves now when working with most liquids that are known to be harmful. As I am on the slippery side of the slope of life, I don't want to speed up that slide.

I've started the rebuild of my RJ58 and the CBR32 sickle bar that fits it. I've been collecting parts for it for a few years so I thought I'd get started on it. I didn't take many pics of the tear down, mostly just close ups for reference. I've got the engine tore down and cleaned up, ready to go to the machine shop. This one will get bored .010 and the crank will be turned .010. I got the parts for the engine today so I'll be able to take it to the shop this week. While it's at the machine shop I'm going to have them bore and tap the exhaust port to 3/4" N.P.T. Any opinions on which rim is correct for the RJ would be appreciated I picked up new blades for the sickle at the show in Le Sueur last year, I finally got those changed. Now I need to get it and a bunch of small parts sent to be plated.

Ok , So the C-125 Auto came home with me on Saturday in the rain. When I first looked at it , I only had a flash light in a shed. Now seeing in the day time I have noticed a few minor blemishes I didn't notice that night. However I still consider this a super tight and clean wheel horse. I am very happy so far Some things that need some attention are - flywheel cover is cracked where the coil mounts - Belt cover had been painted poorly - tin shroud over head is missing A few things here and there but overall , well taken care of. The tractor would not idle to save its life. Turns out the low idle screw was missing the tension spring and would not stay in adjustment. I installed a spring and dialed in the carb and it now runs like a Swiss watch. The deck is in awesome shape. I am interested to try out the rear discharge deck once the snow melts and grass grows. I never had one. Not much else to do there except sharpen the blades and a new deck wheel in the back. HOLY CRAP, is that deck heavy and made well. The snow blower was missing the side extension pieces and the lift flag. I sourced a flag from my local Toro dealer for 30 and the extension pieces off eBay for 20 bucks. I am going to take it out tomorrow and spin it up to make sure there are no funny noises. I cant wait to try out the blower. Now I just need some snow. I really am thankful for all the great info on here. I had the blower on in no time. Its amazing how tight all the linkage is on this tractor for the lift and controls. So here are the pictures. I paid $400. I hope I did good. From your previous responses to my last post, I think I did.

Hey Steve- Your mention of Rock & Rye stirred a ancestral craving in me-so to speak-one of my ancestors had an unusual occupation-Al

I was not born in this country but I thank the Lord everyday, for the day i first stepped on this soil. I am thankfull for the life it has given me and for all of the oppurtunities I otherwise would never had. Having said that, I spend a lot of money and time trying to buy what is made here. Not only because in most cases it is better made but I also feel an obligation to do so. It is becoming increasingly difficult since American made products are becoming basically non-existing in a lot of places. Like Ken I then turn mostly to products from Canada or even Mexico. Not too long ago I decided to buy a Little Giant ladder, so off to Home Depot I go. What should have been a 10 minute thing, turned out to be a 45 minute ordeal. There was the Little Giant ladder I always wanted for about $400.00 . However right next to it there was a Chinese knockoff for $200.00. Nearly identical, same size, but visibly not as well constructed, but only $200.00. Between looking at them over and over again and taking walks away from them to think, over 30 minutes pass. Finally on the last look something on the American made one finally sealed my decision. It had an American Flag on it saying underneath it Proudly Made In the USA. So I looked at the other one and mumbled to myseld "not today". Funny enough when I got to the register, immediately the cashier said to me that there is another one there for half the price. So with a smile I just told her that I did see it but it was missing the American Flag.

Yes.

i need some help identifying this plow.Will this fit a 1960 400 suburban? I would like to have one if i can find one. thanks The One in the middle?

The Magnum is the same as the large base block/solid mount style, see the pinned post at the top of this section, on how to tell what block you have, depending on what tractor you have, a solid mount engine will fit in the place of a shaker mount engine by removing all the shaker plate parts, but going the other way will not work.

Probably a NF. They were a funky size 9" high 9 3/8" long and 5 1/2 wide

Thats what I needed TT. A battery to fill the box completely…Thank you my friend, I greatly appreciate it. Now the search begins…..

My fingertips will develop painful cracks when cold weather comes around. I fail to use the Gold Bond hand cream like I should and the thick tough skin dries out and splits. Of course, then I remember to moisturize! In the meantime, super glue seals the cracks long enough for the skin to heal and alleviates the pain. Never had a crack get infected when sealed with super glue, the pain relief is instantaneous. The gel doesn't flow into the crack as well as the liquid type of super glue. As far as the glue causing neurological damage, twenty years of beer, bourbon and good moonshine plus Camel cigarettes didn't leave much to damage.

Although the U1 batteries are suitable replacements, the Charger/Raider/Electro/Bronco (and early C series?) originally came with a battery big enough to fill the box. I can't ever keep them straight, but I believe it's either a 22NF or 22F. (99% sure it's the NF) Here's a picture of one in an all-original Raider 14:

Ball-hone/Flex hone ---bah, we all know thats a "Dingleberry" hone!! :) Its sure works good too....

It seems that once mounted all the parts have returned to have another look... And I chromed the gas cap and the front lights rings... And I had to ask a guy I know, to made ​​a copy of the screws for the round hood

The other pieces were also painted...

Thanks Kai. That's about how I figured it. I purchased the gear this afternoon, along with some carb refurb parts. Hopefully I'll get the whole thing put back together tonight, but fist I need to get my youngest son to his Eagle Scout Board of Review! If all goes well, we'll have a second Eagle in our house tonight!

Ouch! If you do decide to rebuild the tranny, make sure you use self locking nuts on the differential (that big drum gear thing). Earlier transmissions (before self locking nuts were readily available) used lock washers. They are tried and true, but over time they relax under the compressive load of the nut and then the force on the nut which keeps it tight goes away and the nut will back off. Without a pix, I am assuming this is what happened, however, it is also possible that the offending bolt broke. The offending bits may have trashed the 1533 NLA main axle bearings. I had a tranny last year where the outboard needle bearings on one axle disintegrated. One I tore it apart, I saw a few whole needles in the tranny but many broken ones and the main bearing was trashed. Get that other tranny installed quicky, I understand that cold weather is coming back to MA next week!

your on your own with this one Guys ... now where is that Spell Chequer!

Here's my team.

Thanks everyone. Yes, I know it really was my own fault, but sometimes you just have to vent. They guy was holding so steady to his price that I thought it had to be decent, or at least sentimental, but I think most of its life was lived in a field. (Mice nest in the tunnel to prove it! ) So on to the good things (and make myself feel better): Came with: Free shipping (did the math would have been $150 in gas alone), Grader blade and bracket (seems to be worth over $100 and its in fixable shape), wheel weights (original wheel horse rears at least) for back AND front wheels (seems to be $150-200), a very good shape 42" mower deck and repairable belt covers (seems to be worth $2-300). So adding up the "what-its-worth-individually" looks like I came out ahead considering I should still have a fixable tractor in addition to all that. It was by no means a steal, but I got my moneys worth. I purchased a C-125 from a member of this forum that had a few different issues but was in good shape and will probably become a donor for the restore. This one is going to be the worker, the C-105 will be my collector. Hopefully I will be able to recoup some of my stupidity with the sale of the spare (good) parts. I am an electrical engineer, so I have some good plans on an integrated digital dashboard since I am not going to do an original restore.

Welcome to RedSquare. I agree on replacing the belt, and you might also want to check the clutch spring and replace it with a heavier one.

Your tractors vitals... 1-0140 1974 B Series Garden Tractor B-80 4-Speed Kohler K181S-30461D 8 Wheel Horse 5084 Let's see some of those wheelin' picts?

Thank you Sir

Had it happen twice. The first time was worse and I had no idea of what is was at the time, thought I was going blind. Also sun burned the underside of my forearm pretty good while welding parts on the hoe. All of it caused by being too careless and stupid

Thats reallyreally nice! Curious though as to what defines it as a SK? It looks every bit to be a C series to me. Does it have the 1inch rear axles or 1&1/8inch? Pardon my lack of knowledge here. I know about Blackhoods and 300 400 and 500 series but not as up to speed on the C's or in this case the SK's as I would like to be.

Jabronie or Gibronie is Italian slang for a "Loser". Thanks for watching this addition of "Early 20th Century Italian Slang". "Early 20th Century Italian Slang" is made possible by a grant from the Sicilian Brownies, (formerly la Costa Nostra), and Whatsamatta U and by viewers like you. Thank you for your support!

With Karl's help...I replaced the old spread sheets with PDFs. It includes, what I think, are all the bearings and seals used in all the Wheel Horse transmissions. In other words, if your transmission is not listed, like the bi-level differential 3 speeds, you can still find the correct cross reference to the bearings you need by using the WH # and going through the 3 PDFs. Find the correct manual for your tractor with the transmission breakdown and these PDFs will give you the correct cross over. I included Motion Industries catalog number for each bearing and seal that they carry. If you go to their web site (motionindustries.com), you can type in their catalog number and that bearing/seal will pop up. It gives a picture, size and an approximate price. If you type in the TORO web site and it says the bearing/seal is N/A, you can get it either at NAPA or M/I...if there is a catalog number. The only thing that you can't get at this moment...is the WH #1533 ball bearing. The NICE 412-35 is still available (for the 5003 and 5010 trannys), but not from TORO or Motion Industries. I think I have that information, but I have to look. Hope this helps everyone. edit::: The NICE 412-35 is available from Kelly Supply ksodirect.com I think all the numbers are correct and the PDF is printable. This should save a lot of ordering the wrong part and a ton of questions.

I seem to think I remember Glenjerry saying to stick the plastic in some hot water for a couple of minutes. Works to take off and to put back on. Just want to soften it enough to make it pliable. Can't hurt it to try.

Excellent choice Karl, and Congratulations Neil. Karl...feel free to slap Squonk.

I have one, a real Stallion. Then again, Wheel Horses are all thoroughbreds. 48" Plow/dozer, 48" deck, wagon.

I've never been politically correct.

This past week I got some more done on the truck. I installed the gaskets on the oil pan, valve cover and side cover. Also installed new shorter water pump and thermostat. I clear coated and painted the parts. Instead of messing around with the tranny that came with the truck I bought a new/used one from the parts supplier along with new clutch and throw out bearing. I am pretty close to being ready to drop the new engine and tranny in soon.

Congragulations on the Simplicity. I'm sure you will like it once you get it running and the bugs out. The KT series 2 engines are smooth with a great sound. I have an old Simplicity 728 that was the lawn tractor I learned how to cut grass on. It still runs but sure has its share of hours on it.

I would keep both and use the 93 the most to see how many hours you can get out of it. As long as it does not overheat you should get 2,000 plus hours out of it and you will never be down with carburetor problems because you will have a back up ready to go. You can use that gorgeous 94 to ride to church on Sundays.

OK. Is that a piece of caramel being used as a shifter knob?

E Z R A will be there!

Lawn Ranger blade? Garry