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I can not count how many times I've been asked about will this engine fit, or will this oil pan fit?? most times the first question I ask is what style block do you have ?? large or small base ?? BUT there is one exception to that rule I will cover that later. I'm writing this post to help clear up that question, first this only applies to 10, 12, 14 and 16 HP Kohlers, they used two style blocks commonly referred to as large or small base blocks. We will start with the large base or eared block used on most WH tractors from 1967 to the last Magnum about 1987, these blocks use the bigger oil pan, and the pan bolts on from the top side through ears on the block, this style oil pan is the one that bolts directly to the frame, the two bolts on the right side that hold it to the frame go from under the frame into blind bolt holes in the bottom of the pan, the pan will hang over the frame some on that side, with the mounting ears on the pan NOT being used. This is a large base block and pan, note how long the pan is and where it bolts to the block Here you can see where the pan hangs over the frame, at this point under the frame is where the bolts go from the bottom in to the blind holes in the pan. The holes outlined in red are the blind holes used to bolt the pan to the frame from the bottom, the holes in green are the ones that hang over the frame. Here you can see the bolts that hold the pan on, going through the ears in the block. That pretty much covers the large base blocks. Next is the small base block used on the shaker plate engines, and some of the mid 60's 10hp engines in WH tractors, this style block is also common in Cub tractors, and others but we are talking WH here. The small base block the oil pan bolts on from the bottom of the engine, it does not have ears on the block, the pan is closer to a square in shape than the large base block, here is a pic of a small base block and oil pan. There are many many styles of oil pans to fit the small base block, other brands of tractors use pans in all shapes, and depths so when swapping this style pan you have to watch how long the oil dipper is on the bottom of the connecting rod, it can be cut to fit a shallower pan, WH used two basic pans on this engine a very shallow pan on the early 10 hp and a mid depth on the shaker plate engines. This pan is a shaker style pan used in the late 70's early 80's on the shaker engines This pan is the flat bottom style used on the 1045, 1055, 1075 and 1046 also used on many Cub engines and other brands, the dipper on the connecting rod is very short on the engines that use this pan. This is a deep pan on a Cub engine, I do beleive it uses the same dipper as the large base blocks with the big oil pan. Here is a shot of both styles together, to give you a idea of how the blocks look side by side, note on the large base block the cut outs at each end, I will be talking about them and the 4 holes you see where a small base oil pan could fit with a few mods. Here are the pan gaskets side by side and over top of each other. Ok now we will talk about how a small base oil pan can be used on a large base block, note the red circles they point out the cut outs in the block where the small oil pan will not seal, this area can be filled up with JB weld or other compound that will stick to metal and take the heat, then note the green circles they show the holes that will need to be tapped to bolt the pan to, so far all blocks I have seen have the holes but are not tapped, with these mods a small pan can be used on this block, also if needed you could cut most of the ears off the block. Now some blocks (very few) are set up from the factory to except both style oil pans, most common found on JD tractors as they use a shaker mount set up that uses the ears on the block to mount it but still uses a small oil pan, here is a duel pan style block note is does not have the cut outs in the block like a normal large base block does. Just remember to check the dipper on the rod, to long and it will hit the pan, to short and it may not splash lube properly. I hope this helps clear up a few questions about block styles and how they differ

If you've been around here for a while you know full well who UkWheelHorseBloke is, who has been providing us with informative and entertaining video's for years. If you haven't seen his video's your certainly missing out. "How do I find him?" you ask! Well that's easy, go to his YouTube channel UkWheelHorseBloke and subscribe to his channel. You'll want to subscribe so you know when the new stuff comes out, and it's easy to reach again. Ian is member number 110, which means he's been here since almost the beginning but I believe that he is U.K. Member 1. Regardless, you must see his video's, especially the 6x6 build which is just an amazing piece.

2014 support members entitled to a 25% discount on all purchases (no matter how small or large) from redoyourhorse.com All support members who have registered an account with redoyourhorse.com and have contacted me with your info have been added to my support members group which automatically changes the prices you see on the site once you have logged in. There is no code to enter so please make sure you are properly registered before purchasing. I do not want you to miss out on the savings if you are a paid support member of RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum. At this time I have 60 support members registered. there are another 100 who have not contacted me. If you are a Red Square support member and have not registered on my site you can REGISTER HERE make sure to enter your RS username when creating your account so i can verify your RS support status. Also this year we are offering free shipping on all orders to anywhere in the US If you would like to take advantage of this discount and many other benefits of being a forum support member simply go to the forum STORE and pick a support plan that works for you. Thank you all for your support and we look forward to seeing you at the BIG SHOW this year. Sincerely Terry, Lola & Buddy

I would say that most of the problems with the techy carb and cleaning it and still not running right is the fact that you can not get to the place the carb clogs up just taking it apart and soaking it will not clean the low speed passage which is the place 90% of them clog up you have to remove a brass plug from the carb body to gain access there is a small metal rod in this passage also.with the bass plug removed you can get the metal rod out and use a pipe cleaner and spray carb cleaner on the passage way to clean it a fast check to tell if you have a clogged low speed passage is with the carb off the tractor remove the jets, bowl ,float, needle hold the carb body next you your ear and shake it up and down you should hear a clink of the small metal rod moving back and forth in it's passage way if it does not the passage way is clogged up Brian

I have been looking for a WH 1054 for quite sometime now and was able to make a road trip yesterday and pick one up from a fellow member of Red Square New2horses (David) from Arkansas. I enjoyed David's time and knowledge while I was there. I had the urge to get a WH tractor about 6 months ago (702 Sickle Mower). Now I have added 2 more another 702 and this 1054. I was able to take the 1054 to the car wash today and give it a good clean up. After the car wash I drained all the fluids and refilled, changed spark plug, cleaned the carburetor, replaced the points and condenser, new fuel lines and a new battery. After all this I turned it over and on the 2nd try it fired right up and runs great took it for a spin up and down the street with no issues. The hydraulics worked great also. I will start a restoration on the 1054 as soon as I complete the restoration on the 702 Sickle Mower. I have attached some pictures before the cleanup at the car wash, and will post some pictures after the cleanup as soon as I download those pictures. Any pointers on this 1054 would be much appreciated. Thanks Donnie

This started back during leaf season as I needed a place to store the tools for the Cyclone Rake. HF recently released plastic ammo boxes which are smaller than a 12" tool box. Originally it was just the box but then grew into flashing lights and a backup light. The nice thing is that I didn't drill any holes into the tractor. It is about 80% finished as I still need to wire it completely, touch up, etc. I use 1" x 1/8" aluminum angle.

Progress. Ran a jumper to the coil from the battery and ran it for about 3 min. Ran fine outside of a little carb adjustment. Pulled the jumper and it started acting up in about 10 seconds. Started following the wire back and found this. The looped black wire out of the switch is 12 v to the PTO switch and has cracks in it. There it's a double terminal and continues on to the coil. I'm going to run a new wire in the next few days and if it continues, replace the switch.

I'm with Mike on the licking the suction cup, that paste isn't real tasty in a good way. (not as good as vegemite anyway) could you smooth the valve head some amount by running it over some 220 or similar on a flat surface? just a little circular motion to level out some of that surface 'roughness'? ive had a few valves that were 'rough' like you described and i persevered with the suction cup. some worked without smoothing some didn't. get that suction cup as wet as possible and it helped a little. air will still escape but might give you a few rotations and work the paste enough to break the hold it has on the valve and seat.

Everyone is aware of the bad rap Techys fuel delivery systems have... so, just wanted to give everybody a heads up to the brand new, $27 (gotta be)off shore manufactured carbs now being offered on Ebay. I took a chance, popped for one and I gotta say how great my little HH-60 is running now. These carbs are well made, and fully adjustable too, but no need, that thing purred like a kitten straight out of the box. Plus, they got them priced so cheap now...it's not even worth messing around rebuilding, then tuning one anymore. Seems there may be no excuse for a poorly running Techy with carb issues anymore.

What would a wheel horse trailer like this sale for and are they hard to find?

Hello. the tank connection form my Raider 10 was broken so I made myself a new . With my lathe this was not a problem. I drilled a hole in an M8 screw and turned off a piece to the diameter of 6 mm. In the head of the screw I sawed a bit. The tank was quickly reparet and only cost me a screw.

I only wear gloves when my hands are cold, or when I'm doing something with a hot object. But they're not pretty, and my skin cracks up in cold weather. I don't like the lack of feeling through gloves.

I own a 520-8. Serial number 10839. about 1,200hrs. Have 60" deck, 2-stage snowblower, single stage snowthrower, Tiller, 48" Dozer with the 520 extension kit, mid-mount grader blade, rear wheel weight, front frame weight kit, chains, sleeve hitch, Ag & truf tires and the external gas tank kit. I never got the electric lift because I think the manual lift is faster. I use this tractor all year long.

finally got around to replacing the hydro line from the spool back to the tranny. went with a local hose place just to get it done and the OEM R3 hose is scarce so they used R17. No wire and super flexible. The Eaton 1100 only is 700 psi but this hose is good up to 3000psi.some of the other fittings are wet (when are they not) but nothing like the gusher I had, will keep an eye on them. changed the engine oil (no filter!?!) and changed the tranny filter (WH of course)and oil. runs great! hydro is strong and the Briggs sounds great. thinking about some paint in the spring.

Ha, Good news.... Because I've dropped the transmission, the clutch spring that normally presses the brake band and arm against the transmission doesn't... The angled piece was clicking on the chain ends like a ratchet Panic over, a small mod with a bracket has sorted it.

I've used all sorts of methods including wrapping a piece of string around the stem (think snowthrower cable spool) to a strong magnet on the valve face. Were the seats ground? New (or properly ground) valves in freshly cut seats shouldn't require much more than a twist or two to check the contact area. Most of the time I just use a Sharpie to "paint" the seat face and spin the valve against the seat to mark the contact area.

I too chose not to view the video. Kids need to be taught at an early age safety. I taught mine about workshop safety for my basement shop. If I was using power tool do not come in and don't sneak up on me or startle me. WAIT til I am done. I always unplugged everything too. Jim

I see some listed on Ebay as being sold directly coming out of China, selling for $26 now. Looks like the same carb I bought was sold by outdoorpowerdeals.com, I think I paid $28 and change, free shipping. The company is located in Kansas, United States, in the box contained a flyer stating... 100% satisfaction guaranteed, money back if not satisfied for any reason, worth the couple extra bucks to me. If you go to their sellers page, they have listed a bunch for other engines too, nicely priced as well.

Turn the video camera back on and it should run fine!

Growing up in the 70's working on tractors and cars, something always needed cleaning and or painting. I filled a coffee can with gas, mineral spirits, diesel, kero, thinner, brake cleaner, whatever the job called for, tossed the parts in and scrubbed as needed. Never once did I think about wearing gloves. I don't remember seeing anyone wearing gloves back then. Today, I have a couple boxes of disposable gloves in the shop all the time. It is now second nature for me to put on gloves before working on the greasy stuff, or working with solvents. Many times I even put on my mechanics gloves when refueling just to avoid getting gas on the hands. Anytime I go into a professional garage these days I see all of the mechanics wearing gloves. Times have really changed when it comes to wearing hand protection. Now that we know much more about the effects of chemicals and their ability to enter the body through the skin, gloves just plain make sense. I can still remember going to high school and being able to smell diesel on my hands, I do miss that!! Have you ever removed red paint from your hands with thinner?? Raise your hand if guilty. Rick

Just found the video clips I put together last year and the kids gave me an idea Not at Ian's (stigians) level yet, but i found it amusing to make enjoy

Roughly 800 miles. I no it sounds crazy but have a lot of changes going on at work and I just needed to get out of town and get my mind on something else. And what better way than to pick up a Wheel Horse Tractor

As they say in Norway...

link to the site for just the tractor http://seltd.net/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?account=X344897;search=16;search=Special%20Projects;limit=category;v=2.0

Or the engine locked up from the magnets coming apart and trashing the stator. happened to my 417A a few years ago.

as for how many times asked ?? no idea, but I get the do you have a Kohler to fit my tractor ?? no more info given, or the it don't matter they will all fit, or I have no idea what style block I have ?? the list goes on........................

I think it's excellent! I assume you're working on the next installment ~ dipstick and PTO mounting face variations.

Bees Wax! . Clean the rough area first, Melt it onto the Valve head and let it flow flat and smooth to cool. You can scrape it if to leave it in the pits and uneven areas. I always only do them by hand, I get more control that way, but you can try it with a drill if you wish. Wet the Sucker with water. Clean off after using Mineral Spirits.

I had a 12v test light on the coil when it was running and then quit. Voltage did not drop out.Checked the fuel pump output and it was good. Hope to work on it this afternoon. Water heater comes first. Just got that running. Need to play with the set point some more. I'm going to use Elvis to drag out the old heater in the spring. Maybe I'll have room for more stuff after that! Points are white colored and the gap seems to be under .015" does anyone think they may be the culprit?

check this bad boy out... in the driveway with it... the inside gears and chain still have factory red paint on them... even the plastic cover looks good...(sorry for crappy pic) tag your it! So what's your thoughts on this purchase? I feel as though I literally stole it... RJMcEachern

I'm sure, she doesn't want to lose you Chas.

Sad story for sure. My son has been operating a WH since he was 8 or 9 (no attachments and a 5hp yank start Briggs mounted in a C-120 body/frame). I tought him all I could and he has never had an issue thankfully. What does amaze me is the number of kids riding around not only the WH show but other shows I attend. So far I have never seen an accident but sometimes I cringe when I see a youngster tooling along at full speed ahead thru the crowds. Mike........... No gory pics, just a story really. Mike..........

It is discouraging Mike...putting off the process because it's such the PITA, and having your tractor down the whole time. Then to get kicked in the when you reinstall it and it's still leaking. Plug and play, is the way to go.

Craig: I bought one when I first saw them advertised as they were half the price of the Tecumseh carb and I needed one. I have had no issues with it running well in two years! They are made well.

I was just going to upgrade the bolts to grade 8 and use lock nuts for reassurance will this work. And will order the parts from Toro Monday.

It is pretty clean, Craig but there's several things that need attention. I really like these little RJs and I've been wanting to put a fresh coat of paint on this one since I got it. Terry's already got me fixed up with new decals to finish it off with.

Very Interesting topic....I love the looks of the D tractors. The smaller ones used the Omen?

Thanks for the info ....

Gee wiz Lars... cool video bro... sounds like you were burning rubber leaving the garage.

Good to know, thanks for sharing Craig.

Always thought Wheel Horse should have never given up the tool box. On are big farm tractors I would be lost without them. It's almost UnAmerican to be without a tool box on a tractor. I have often thought about bolting one on somewhere. We have got a lot of talented fabricator members on here maybe they will come up with some great Idea.

i'm headed out in the morning to get it. I just cant pass it up. I know if I let it go I'll regret it. I don't know if i'll get a chance like this again.Stay tuned!!!! . thanks, all of you who offered your opinion.

I know the 42" single stage 79360 that fits many years is 51 male links including master link. Tractor Supply Co has 10 ft of #40 roller chain for $20 . As I think Sparky has posted in the past, easy way to cut the chain is grind off one side of the pin flush with the side of the link. Then place a small Socket , like a 1/4 ", vertical on the bench, place the pin over the socket hole and use a punch and hammer to push the pin down into the socket. Then just need a master link. Both ends must be female for the master. Not sure what the xi blower uses.

Never sells whole tractors, only parts. He's doing it for money not to save them from the scrap yard. I guess in a roundabout way he is saving them from the junk yard piece by piece but I would sooner see a whole tractor get saved then the parts of one. Thats why I stole that Charger 12 even though it didn't run….now it does though…And my son sure is happy because of it Actually, I love tractors, when I was 12 I built one from an old walk-behind, worked on them ever since, I also had a motorcycle salvage yard when I was 18 to cover my tractor hobby, when I sold the salvage yard, I had over 400 motorcycles. Now I do the tractors because I love it and it pays my bills. Sure, some people hate what I do, but then there are people out there that will hate someone for anything, no matter what they do. So, I am not to worried about pleasing people unless it is someone who bought a bad part. So, it is more that just being about money. I am sure many people would do what I do (or what they love) rather then the job they do now. Grace & Peace Lv. 25:14 - Joe Thanks to all of the people with the positive posts. I try hard to run an honest business that is fair and helpful to everyone. Grace & Peace Lv. 25:14 - Joe

Congrats Jim. I turned 71 this month but I keep putting off my retirement for a couple of reasons. One is a 17 year old daughter/granddaughter who graduates this year and is college bound and two is that I like my job. Best of all I like the feeling that I could retire today if I wanted to. In fact I mention that to the big boss daily. If someone at work asks me when I'm going to retire, I say as soon as one of the a**holes p*ss me off. They've come close a couple of times.

I have one. before after

Saturday was my youngest grandson's 2nd birthday party. He is fascinated with tractors, and every time he comes to my house it's always "Papa's tractors" as the first words out of his mouth. So my daughter suggested that I bring my 701 to Grant's party. Since Grant's other grandfather was here from Wisconsin, and he is a tractor nut himself, we decided to have two tractors, and two carts so that all 11 kids could ride. So I loaded up the 701 and the Commando 8 along with one bathtub cart. My son-in-law had a cart already. Here we are. Two tractor nut granddads having the time of our lives. That's me of course in the funny hat. This is Hank, from Wisconsin on the Commando. We even had 3 young ladies from age 10 to 13 who wanted to learn to drive the tractors, so driving lessons were in order. After that, it was hard to keep them off the horses. An absolutely great time was had by everyone, especially the two old guys.

Just a bit of a picture update, for the most part this is how it will be at the MI WH show, I have a temp fuel tank mounted, I may swap the hood for a nicer one, I have a few new gauges on order should be here this week, got the aircleaner mount done, just need to tighten the bolts so it sets level, seat is not what I want but it's in good shape and fits for now, starter is giving me fits, needs replaced but will be weeks to get one, so crossing my fingers it holds out for now, any way here it is ugly but drivable, I'm so glad I did the GT14 fender swap, it was a bit of work, but I'm VERY happy with it and the way the footrest turned out.

Just trying to add to a thus far interesting, intelligent discussion. I find the how's and why's of the early model equipment quite facinating. Lets face it, we have the general history mapped out for us in a nice little book, but there is a plethora of intricate details invloving the actual tractors that tend to be left blank. The variations in models, attachments and even variations within the same model make this stuff quite fun to collect and investigate. Given the fact that specific info on many of the early tractors IS difficult to obtain, we are left to sort out the clues and sometimes make our own hypotheses. When we arrive upon contradicting info a flag pops up and makes you a little. Sort of like one of those kids mystery books, but for grown men who play with tractors. This is good in depth tractor conversation and thats why I'm here. Oh, and given the additional info that has turned up on the 754's I can't say I'm ready to let that one rest either. The truth is, engineering changes and product decisions were made on an ongoing basis and this type of info is the REAL meat and potatoes stuff that I would love to hear about. Each model and variation was decided upon, built for a reason and at a specific time etc. Maybe I'm all alone in finding this stuff interesting. :omg: