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I can not count how many times I've been asked about will this engine fit, or will this oil pan fit?? most times the first question I ask is what style block do you have ?? large or small base ?? BUT there is one exception to that rule I will cover that later. I'm writing this post to help clear up that question, first this only applies to 10, 12, 14 and 16 HP Kohlers, they used two style blocks commonly referred to as large or small base blocks. We will start with the large base or eared block used on most WH tractors from 1967 to the last Magnum about 1987, these blocks use the bigger oil pan, and the pan bolts on from the top side through ears on the block, this style oil pan is the one that bolts directly to the frame, the two bolts on the right side that hold it to the frame go from under the frame into blind bolt holes in the bottom of the pan, the pan will hang over the frame some on that side, with the mounting ears on the pan NOT being used. This is a large base block and pan, note how long the pan is and where it bolts to the block Here you can see where the pan hangs over the frame, at this point under the frame is where the bolts go from the bottom in to the blind holes in the pan. The holes outlined in red are the blind holes used to bolt the pan to the frame from the bottom, the holes in green are the ones that hang over the frame. Here you can see the bolts that hold the pan on, going through the ears in the block. That pretty much covers the large base blocks. Next is the small base block used on the shaker plate engines, and some of the mid 60's 10hp engines in WH tractors, this style block is also common in Cub tractors, and others but we are talking WH here. The small base block the oil pan bolts on from the bottom of the engine, it does not have ears on the block, the pan is closer to a square in shape than the large base block, here is a pic of a small base block and oil pan. There are many many styles of oil pans to fit the small base block, other brands of tractors use pans in all shapes, and depths so when swapping this style pan you have to watch how long the oil dipper is on the bottom of the connecting rod, it can be cut to fit a shallower pan, WH used two basic pans on this engine a very shallow pan on the early 10 hp and a mid depth on the shaker plate engines. This pan is a shaker style pan used in the late 70's early 80's on the shaker engines This pan is the flat bottom style used on the 1045, 1055, 1075 and 1046 also used on many Cub engines and other brands, the dipper on the connecting rod is very short on the engines that use this pan. This is a deep pan on a Cub engine, I do beleive it uses the same dipper as the large base blocks with the big oil pan. Here is a shot of both styles together, to give you a idea of how the blocks look side by side, note on the large base block the cut outs at each end, I will be talking about them and the 4 holes you see where a small base oil pan could fit with a few mods. Here are the pan gaskets side by side and over top of each other. Ok now we will talk about how a small base oil pan can be used on a large base block, note the red circles they point out the cut outs in the block where the small oil pan will not seal, this area can be filled up with JB weld or other compound that will stick to metal and take the heat, then note the green circles they show the holes that will need to be tapped to bolt the pan to, so far all blocks I have seen have the holes but are not tapped, with these mods a small pan can be used on this block, also if needed you could cut most of the ears off the block. Now some blocks (very few) are set up from the factory to except both style oil pans, most common found on JD tractors as they use a shaker mount set up that uses the ears on the block to mount it but still uses a small oil pan, here is a duel pan style block note is does not have the cut outs in the block like a normal large base block does. Just remember to check the dipper on the rod, to long and it will hit the pan, to short and it may not splash lube properly. I hope this helps clear up a few questions about block styles and how they differ

If you've been around here for a while you know full well who UkWheelHorseBloke is, who has been providing us with informative and entertaining video's for years. If you haven't seen his video's your certainly missing out. "How do I find him?" you ask! Well that's easy, go to his YouTube channel UkWheelHorseBloke and subscribe to his channel. You'll want to subscribe so you know when the new stuff comes out, and it's easy to reach again. Ian is member number 110, which means he's been here since almost the beginning but I believe that he is U.K. Member 1. Regardless, you must see his video's, especially the 6x6 build which is just an amazing piece.

2014 support members entitled to a 25% discount on all purchases (no matter how small or large) from redoyourhorse.com All support members who have registered an account with redoyourhorse.com and have contacted me with your info have been added to my support members group which automatically changes the prices you see on the site once you have logged in. There is no code to enter so please make sure you are properly registered before purchasing. I do not want you to miss out on the savings if you are a paid support member of RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum. At this time I have 60 support members registered. there are another 100 who have not contacted me. If you are a Red Square support member and have not registered on my site you can REGISTER HERE make sure to enter your RS username when creating your account so i can verify your RS support status. Also this year we are offering free shipping on all orders to anywhere in the US If you would like to take advantage of this discount and many other benefits of being a forum support member simply go to the forum STORE and pick a support plan that works for you. Thank you all for your support and we look forward to seeing you at the BIG SHOW this year. Sincerely Terry, Lola & Buddy

I would say that most of the problems with the techy carb and cleaning it and still not running right is the fact that you can not get to the place the carb clogs up just taking it apart and soaking it will not clean the low speed passage which is the place 90% of them clog up you have to remove a brass plug from the carb body to gain access there is a small metal rod in this passage also.with the bass plug removed you can get the metal rod out and use a pipe cleaner and spray carb cleaner on the passage way to clean it a fast check to tell if you have a clogged low speed passage is with the carb off the tractor remove the jets, bowl ,float, needle hold the carb body next you your ear and shake it up and down you should hear a clink of the small metal rod moving back and forth in it's passage way if it does not the passage way is clogged up Brian

I have been looking for a WH 1054 for quite sometime now and was able to make a road trip yesterday and pick one up from a fellow member of Red Square New2horses (David) from Arkansas. I enjoyed David's time and knowledge while I was there. I had the urge to get a WH tractor about 6 months ago (702 Sickle Mower). Now I have added 2 more another 702 and this 1054. I was able to take the 1054 to the car wash today and give it a good clean up. After the car wash I drained all the fluids and refilled, changed spark plug, cleaned the carburetor, replaced the points and condenser, new fuel lines and a new battery. After all this I turned it over and on the 2nd try it fired right up and runs great took it for a spin up and down the street with no issues. The hydraulics worked great also. I will start a restoration on the 1054 as soon as I complete the restoration on the 702 Sickle Mower. I have attached some pictures before the cleanup at the car wash, and will post some pictures after the cleanup as soon as I download those pictures. Any pointers on this 1054 would be much appreciated. Thanks Donnie

This started back during leaf season as I needed a place to store the tools for the Cyclone Rake. HF recently released plastic ammo boxes which are smaller than a 12" tool box. Originally it was just the box but then grew into flashing lights and a backup light. The nice thing is that I didn't drill any holes into the tractor. It is about 80% finished as I still need to wire it completely, touch up, etc. I use 1" x 1/8" aluminum angle.

Progress. Ran a jumper to the coil from the battery and ran it for about 3 min. Ran fine outside of a little carb adjustment. Pulled the jumper and it started acting up in about 10 seconds. Started following the wire back and found this. The looped black wire out of the switch is 12 v to the PTO switch and has cracks in it. There it's a double terminal and continues on to the coil. I'm going to run a new wire in the next few days and if it continues, replace the switch.

I'm with Mike on the licking the suction cup, that paste isn't real tasty in a good way. (not as good as vegemite anyway) could you smooth the valve head some amount by running it over some 220 or similar on a flat surface? just a little circular motion to level out some of that surface 'roughness'? ive had a few valves that were 'rough' like you described and i persevered with the suction cup. some worked without smoothing some didn't. get that suction cup as wet as possible and it helped a little. air will still escape but might give you a few rotations and work the paste enough to break the hold it has on the valve and seat.

Everyone is aware of the bad rap Techys fuel delivery systems have... so, just wanted to give everybody a heads up to the brand new, $27 (gotta be)off shore manufactured carbs now being offered on Ebay. I took a chance, popped for one and I gotta say how great my little HH-60 is running now. These carbs are well made, and fully adjustable too, but no need, that thing purred like a kitten straight out of the box. Plus, they got them priced so cheap now...it's not even worth messing around rebuilding, then tuning one anymore. Seems there may be no excuse for a poorly running Techy with carb issues anymore.

What would a wheel horse trailer like this sale for and are they hard to find?

Hello. the tank connection form my Raider 10 was broken so I made myself a new . With my lathe this was not a problem. I drilled a hole in an M8 screw and turned off a piece to the diameter of 6 mm. In the head of the screw I sawed a bit. The tank was quickly reparet and only cost me a screw.

I only wear gloves when my hands are cold, or when I'm doing something with a hot object. But they're not pretty, and my skin cracks up in cold weather. I don't like the lack of feeling through gloves.

I own a 520-8. Serial number 10839. about 1,200hrs. Have 60" deck, 2-stage snowblower, single stage snowthrower, Tiller, 48" Dozer with the 520 extension kit, mid-mount grader blade, rear wheel weight, front frame weight kit, chains, sleeve hitch, Ag & truf tires and the external gas tank kit. I never got the electric lift because I think the manual lift is faster. I use this tractor all year long.

finally got around to replacing the hydro line from the spool back to the tranny. went with a local hose place just to get it done and the OEM R3 hose is scarce so they used R17. No wire and super flexible. The Eaton 1100 only is 700 psi but this hose is good up to 3000psi.some of the other fittings are wet (when are they not) but nothing like the gusher I had, will keep an eye on them. changed the engine oil (no filter!?!) and changed the tranny filter (WH of course)and oil. runs great! hydro is strong and the Briggs sounds great. thinking about some paint in the spring.

Ha, Good news.... Because I've dropped the transmission, the clutch spring that normally presses the brake band and arm against the transmission doesn't... The angled piece was clicking on the chain ends like a ratchet Panic over, a small mod with a bracket has sorted it.

I've used all sorts of methods including wrapping a piece of string around the stem (think snowthrower cable spool) to a strong magnet on the valve face. Were the seats ground? New (or properly ground) valves in freshly cut seats shouldn't require much more than a twist or two to check the contact area. Most of the time I just use a Sharpie to "paint" the seat face and spin the valve against the seat to mark the contact area.

I too chose not to view the video. Kids need to be taught at an early age safety. I taught mine about workshop safety for my basement shop. If I was using power tool do not come in and don't sneak up on me or startle me. WAIT til I am done. I always unplugged everything too. Jim

I see some listed on Ebay as being sold directly coming out of China, selling for $26 now. Looks like the same carb I bought was sold by outdoorpowerdeals.com, I think I paid $28 and change, free shipping. The company is located in Kansas, United States, in the box contained a flyer stating... 100% satisfaction guaranteed, money back if not satisfied for any reason, worth the couple extra bucks to me. If you go to their sellers page, they have listed a bunch for other engines too, nicely priced as well.

Turn the video camera back on and it should run fine!

sorry I don't have pics yet but my buddy has a 1955 in real good running condition everything works he was wondering what something like this was worth, has been repainted any idea's guys of only seen 3 others on the net, I've seen a 54' and 56 which are the same, ok I finally had time to get pics of her today and this is it see what you think?

I may work on a few other things like this in the near future, like maybe the dip stick challenge

Neat!

You have to be kidding me. Your input and ideas help me create and improve better products for all.

Did you try making a warranty claim anyway. Naw, I gotta take care of Jay. He's my Big Show Hooklup

I'm sure I have the left side cover, the belt guard for the starter will only fit off a 1045, 1055, 1075 or even harder to find 1046 I don't have any of them right now sold my last one to a member here last year. Send me a PM for more info on the side cover

Picked this GEMCO BIG BOY Garden tractor up this summer just got it cleaned up & a good friend Del got it running again, drove it around the yard what a awesome feeling getting this old stuff back to life again! I will be leaving it as is in its original skin.

Here's manual that is in our manuals section Chasm

Nice original tractor ,really like stuff with original paint.You can probably date the tractor through the engine serial number looks like a 8 or 9 series engine?Front wheels look similar to early rj`s Chuck

Not sure what happen Was working on the 318 & next thing I know blood everywhere But I learned my lesson ...not to ask my wife for 1st aid Chasm

Another couple of millimeteres & we could have been looking some stiches or even a blood transfusion

Mike, i think electrical is where your problem is at. Like Jim said check that wire and also the ignition components are grounded properly. also check for an intermittent loss of power anywhere from the battery all the way to the coil. wiring, wiggle the fuse if it has one, check ammeter or voltmeter, check the ignition switch, hook a volt meter or test light to the coil and position it where you can see it and move things around while watching. i had 2 bad ignition switches just recently on the 416s i picked up. would transfer voltage fine, but move the key slightly one way or another or wiggle the back and they would loose contact inside......

and another reason to get your tetanus shot booster every 10 yrs.

Ive had two different times where the voltmeter or ammeter where shorting out or had bad terminals in the back and the tractor would do the exact same thing. gets power through the ammeter feed. just a thought???? we bypassed voltmeter to check and it ran like a champ. comes and goes so hard to detect?

Big like to this. I've always been inventive and creative, but Ian has inspired me on so many levels... I'm just starting to learn video editing and production so I can entertain with my videos, I've a while to go though His YouTube channel is worth a look, for the build of 6x6 and all his other cool things, moving sheds, making wheels, etc... Mark

Did you try making a warranty claim anyway.

Yes I had a boo boo on my finger in one pic, I can't find the post, it was in reply to another engine swap, I may have to start a thread with pics, maybe get it pinned to show the block and pan styles.

Old number is 7939 - active number is 32151-36 Buy two & replace both. Expand them only enough to get them on the axles - do not stretch them more than necessary! I also suggest purchasing four of the 108881 nuts for the differential through bolts. If you don't install new nuts on the differential bolts, at least prep them correctly and apply thread locker during reassembly.

I'll have to see if they have them for my HH100 Chasm

I'll be using this if needed... If it's not needed I'll be using this... RJMcEachern

Wait 'til you pull a flywheel and find all of the magnets stuck to the stator.

Isn't that why they put magnets in the flywheel, to catch the loose parts? During your next service you scoop them up and put them in a jar for your next rebuild project.

MIKE I AM ALMOST 85 AND STILL RIDE. I HAVE HAD OVER 8 SCOOTERS AND 50 MOTORCYCLES.I CAN NOT GIVE THEM UP

Im pretty new to this crazy hobby (and Im already "crazy" about it!) and thank goodness early on I found Joes stuff. Im now up around 12-15 parts from him and every one of them were in very good condition (I was really leery about buying a used crankshaft, but the thing was perfect!) and shipping -- along with the shipping being paid, its really fast. Whats not to like?? Several "atta boys" Joe... Bill Pace

If I recall, the 51 links is in the range of 3.5 to 4+ feet a lot longer than 2' 10". The 10 ft one can make 2 easily.

I was curious because I have an 8 as well.

Thanks guys ! Sorry for being scarce, but life has been getting in the way lol. Anyhow, figured I'd post this one up also. Any guesses what this one morphs into? It has big fluid filled tires... ,,,and double hydraulics like a C-195, and a foot operated DCL (from Doc) Electric PTO clutch on a Kohler K341 16hp. If you guessed that it's a C-160 HD, you are correct. Complete 520 chassis with gear reduction steering and a complete mid-1970's C-160 body.

Stacks just make make them look like Big Boy Tractors, and they sound great! That's why I put AG tires on the rear, and tri-ribs up front. Here are a few pics of mine, and a video as well. Matt http://youtu.be/S78kXv0Elg0

You cheapskates! Go to your local Toro dealer and buy the real thing and they will last for another 20 years. GEEZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!

Terry here. I was "WH1056" when I joined RedSquare. There seemed to be a rather heavy concentration of members named Terry back then. To tell us apart, some members referred to me as "Tricycle Terry". (because of my narrow-front Charger) That nickname was shortened to "TT" and I eventually had Karl change my user name so it was official - and quicker to log in. I live in central PA with my wife of over 6 years, and two dogs. I have one 19 year old son from a previous marriage. He is also a member here on the forum. I am employed as the head equipment technician at a private country club / 27 hole golf course and am about to start my fifth season there. Prior to February 2008, you could normally find me behind the wheel of a Mack. I can hold my own in general conversation, but don't bother asking me about sports of any kind - especially golf. In addition to the enjoyment of owning and using a few Wheel Horse tractors, I dabble in metal fabrication and welding, drawing, playing guitar badly, and posting on internet forums. :D

Stephen, I sent you a PM, but am reposting here. I hadn't seen this thread until after our conversation. Hopefully this doesn't start a war... GO! D250's are a strange breed. They were Wheel Horse's Edsel and were a true international effort. American specs, German design, French engine, Italian steering gearbox.... They were extremely advanced for their time, but were sales flops. In 1976 1000 units were imported and sold over the next two years. 1978 brought in another 500 of a revised model, then 1979 brought another 500 of the improved version. WH listed them in the product listings into the early 1980's, so they weren't flying off the shelf. They even began to promote special credit terms, freebies, and rental store sales to move them. Anyway, the 1976 model is distinguished by its generator (as opposed to an alternator), single action hydraulics, and weaker transaxle. The 1978/79's had dual action hydraulics with 4 couplers on the front under the grille, an alternator, and a slightly revised transaxle mounting and linkage that greatly improved reliability. The dashboard on the 78/79's was also revised and improved and the engagement for the PTO moved from a foot pedal to a lever. The three point hitch on the 76's was not fitted with spherical bearing "eyes" on the draft links. Instead the lower hitch arms were just punched to accept the pins from the implement. Later model hitches had the eyes that were standard on every other three point hitch ever made... The 1976's in particular were plagued with self-destructing transaxles...especially when used for tilling or heavy ground work like plowing or loading. I don't reacall the entire set of peculiars, but the general explanation is that poor lubricant or low levels combined with excessive load caused the internal axle bushings to wear. The axle/differential would sag or move around a little bit and the worm gear teeth wouldn't mesh properly. Catastrophic failure would then result since the worm gear was made (as are most worm gears) of relatively soft bronze. The teeth would shear and the whole tranaxle would fail. Warranty replacements were apparently a huge cost for WH and Gutbrod. A real nightmare according to guys who were there at the time. In 1978 the revisions were slight - and again I don't remember everything - but the improvement was significant. I think the linkage was improved to make shifting more positive and engaged the gearing better. But the bottom end benefitted by a revised mounting angle of the transaxle housing to the frame that caused loads to be transferred internally differently. So the trans was much more durable. But still, if used too heavily they too were prone to letting go. One of the really critical things about their problems was the location of the oil fill plug in the transaxle housing. Going from memory, I think it's on the right hand side of the transaxle behind the right rear tire. To check the fluid, you almost have to remove the wheel. To fill the fluid, you might as well tip the tractor on its side since the framerail immediately above the check/fill port basically blocks access to the thing. So, many people neglected to check and maintain the transaxle. Coupled with the marginal design and high precision...you get the idea. Would I mow with one? Yep. Just be very anal about transaxle maintenance. Would I plow/blade with one? No. Would I run a tiller? No. Loader? No way! Apparently the tiller, which is pretty hard to find anyway, really was rough on these things. I'm not sure mechanically why, but I guess the constant pushing and pounding was hard on the axle and exacerbated the problems. In the old days before Redsquare, it wasn't uncommon to find random internet posts about blown D250 rears on tiller-equipped tractors. Really, the D250 was a precesion engineered piece of equipment. Unfortunately it was introduced into a market and dealer network that lacked the finesse required to keep 'em going and didn't even have the metric tools needed to work on them. The combinations of the machine's fussiness and bad maintenance and abuse probably did most of them in. I'm under the impression that dealers hated them. And man were they expensive. Like $5k in 1976. Charlie (Charlies D250) used his D250 extensively and even ran it in tractor pulls (I think). I know he complete disassembled and rebuilt his prior to any of this, so perhaps his was in perfect tune, a good one, or he was just lucky. Maybe he made some mods. Anyway, he ought to be on your contact list. Now, I really like the Edsels. They are very smooth running, quiet, and extremely powerful. The Renault engine used was rated at 19.9 hp, but the same engine configuration in other applications (Groundsmasters, forklifts, etc) cranked out 35+ hp. Same carb, timing, governor, etc. So the 19.9 hp rating was probably just a lie to get around the regulations that required seatbelts and ROPS. The 60" deck from the JD 400 used on these tractors mows beautifully and pumps a tremendous amount of air. The original intent was for the D250 to be an "estate" tractor. All it was supposed to do was mow and clear snow. But the size and power meant the desire to use it heavily was too great. So they got used as compact utility tractors. Fuel pumps on the engines tend to go bad over time as any mechanical/camshaft driven pump is apt to do. The Renault replacement is (or was last time I cared to look) hard to find and expensive, so replace it with an electric one if it dies. Other than occasionally on ebay, I've never seen a rebuild kit for the Solex carburator. Points, cap, and rotor are hard to find but I think Charlie has a source. By the way, I think one of the spark plugs cannot be taken out without removing the distributor...if I remember correctly. The ignition switch on the 76's is goofy with a really special key...push the key in to enable the ignition. Pull it out to shut it off. Rotate it one click for parking lights. A second click for headlights. I think the 78's have a more conventional switch. Waterpumps aren't a bad quality or bad design, but at this age they often go bad. I've been seeing them periodically on ebay, so somebody must have found a source. If you see one, buy it. The front/mid PTO shaft also serves double duty as the front axle pivot. Bearings here often get sloppy. Duane Baerpath knows how to replace them and I thought posted a source on here at one point. What else.... That's about the whole brain dump for now. If you want to rely on one for a weekly chore tractor I think you need to prepare yourself to be patient and creative. These aren't supported by WH anymore, so parts aren't really available. Engine parts can probably be found since Continental picked up the Renault industrial line a while back. But transmission stuff is extinct. Deere probably still has deck parts. The only differences between a 400 deck and a 250 deck are the hangers. Everything else is carryover from the Deere. I still have a 76 Edsel that I'm not sure what I'm going to do with. I wouldn't buy another 76. A 78/79, definately. Just a better tractor all the way around. I see that the one you're considering is a newer one. Go for it. If it doesn't work out then it will probably be an easy resell. End of sermon, Steve