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As life has been a bit quiet in the shack for the past month, I thought I'd better make a little-ish update vid on what has been happening.. I might of added the odd RedSquare plug as well

I haven't used my blower the last 2 years (not enough snow at one time), but I used it a lot 3 years ago. My driveway is gravel. I set it high, I lower the blower onto a 2x4 (laying on its side) at each end of the scraper blade and then lower the skids till they touch the ground at that height. It doesn't throw rocks unless I inadvertently drive it into one of the banks where I have pushed the snow while plowing. I also ran over a "Yellow Pages" once, it went through the blower just fine - didn't break anything and the display was quite impressive!

GOT ANY THREES????? GO... :ROTF:

a coulter wheel runs in front of a mold board plow and cuts the sod on one side.

Ah yes, the secret locking collar. This thread brings back some bad memories of my first encounter with it. It was November 23, 2006 (did I mention really bad memories). I was just starting to tear down a 44" blower that I had purchased for a total rebuild. I got to the jack shaft with two of these bearings on it, and I couldn't get them to budge on the shaft. Flanged bearings were nothing new to me, we used many hundreds a year building machinery at work. We always made sure that the set screws landed on flats on the shaft to prevent damage to the OD of the shaft itself, which allowed for easy removal of the bearing when needed. I had removed the set screw, but it would not budge. I could see the partially drilled empty hole, but just figured that for some applications they must add a second set screw, and a pilot hole was pre-drilled. Plenty of rust on the shaft, so I figure that it is stuck on the rust. Add liquid wrench, nothing. Put some heat on it, nothing. Last resort, hit it with a hammer, nothing. Solution, cut the jack shaft. It was not until I ordered the new bearings that I realized that these are "special" bearings, as I could now see the eccentric. Where did Wheel Horse find these things? Some engineer reached down deep to come up with these. He must have had a catalog of parts used to build the vault at Fort Knox and picked the bearing used on the vault door hinge. I bet he got employee of the month for this one. I have attached a picture of the shaft before it met Mr. Hacksaw. As simple as these tractors are, I always enjoy the thought and engineering that went into the design, and little details like this that make them fun (and lighten my wallet). It provided maximum frustration at the time, but I learned about a bearing configuration that I would probably never see anywhere else in my lifetime. A reminder to Scotsman, when you reassemble the bearing to the shaft, don't forget to use a punch and rotate the eccentric to tighten it onto the shaft before tightening the set screw. I always like to use some Loctite 222 or equivalent on the set screw. Squonk, great reply to post, you really brought back some memories for me this morning, most of which I had repressed until this moment. Thanks!!

did you adjust the low and high speed needles as per the manual? you should only need the choke to richen the mixture just enough to start. of course if the ambient temp is cold out then it will need choke for a little longer until it will run without. you shouldn't have to use the choke at all to keep it running for any length of time though. if that is the case, its a sign of not rich enough mixture, either from a incorrect adjustment or blockage in the carb.

Congrats Jim. Now you have joined the ranks of those who say " I don't know how I ever had time to work". I used to say yeah you are just saying that because you are bored. Ha Ha was I wrong. Marvin

I have sold people the parts to do the swaps like this, the last 2 times I sold them a rolling chassis, so they had every part, nut and clip and knew where the hoses are routed ect..... then when they where done I get all unused parts in return including the bad trans, so far they all have been happy that way, last guy said he would have been lost if I handed him a pile of parts, this way it was laied out in front of him.

Those nice Lug-Ag Chains that Lars has are available from Jacks Small Engines: really the only chains that work with Lugs, for the very best traction (with weight). http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Products/Universal/Tire-Chains/ATV-V-Bar-Diamond-Tire-Chains

Always use both Work great together :)

does this help?

I had about 800' of railroad stone driveway up north. I just used the lift to hold the blower up a bit. It hurt traction some but I had quite a bit of weight on the back. It's always a good idea to keep the chute pointed away from stuff but it's imperative when blowing on a stone driveway. A stone can travel much further than the blowing snow and a patio door is no match for one. Please don't ask me how I know. I think the wife has forgotten about that night.

Yes, I think it was 4th quarter and duke was looking good when I fell asleep. I should have checked this morning. That has to be one great come back. I think the stats are correct now. Thanks Jim and Bob for letting me know. Way to start the New Year Steve...if I have to type everything twice...it is going to be a long 2014. BTW...figure Brrly1 for at least 1 big loss today.

I must have had too many brewskis last night. I thought I saw A&M beat Duke 52-48. What a game! I'm betting you looked at ESPN. That threw me too.

Congratulation's! to you, Ill keep payin in for awhile longer so you can enjoy it! ~Duke

Last fall I went out to start my 520H. It took more cranking over than usual before she fired up. Nearly jumped out of my seat. Sounded like a machine gun firing. It was parked next to my popup camper and the squirrels around here had packed my muffler with what I counted 2 dozen acorns.

The handle will not remove very easy from the 414 unless your lucky, or I should say VERY lucky, so with that said, try to remove the grip off the handle and put lots of Penetrating oil down the tube, even if the grip does not come off you still can get the oil in, other thing to look for is the lift handle bent ?? the tube/handle should be straight top to bottom if bent, the rod inside will bind up.

This year, because I sold my Wheel Horse Blade, I went back to what I had first-a Jacobsen blade modified to fit the C-125A. Everything works, although its kind of Rube Goldberg in places. I do have a blower, but I can't get down to put it on-Thanks for looking-Al HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Congrats Jim. I turned 71 this month but I keep putting off my retirement for a couple of reasons. One is a 17 year old daughter/granddaughter who graduates this year and is college bound and two is that I like my job. Best of all I like the feeling that I could retire today if I wanted to. In fact I mention that to the big boss daily. If someone at work asks me when I'm going to retire, I say as soon as one of the a**holes p*ss me off. They've come close a couple of times.

I dont have an on-line link but if your willing to plunk down $57 (well worth it in my opinion) you should pick up a copy of "Straight from the Horses Mouth. The Wheel Horse Story, Final edition" By Michael Martino. You'll learn all about the history of this great line of tractors. Actually production numbers are only known for a few of the low production specialty models so you wont be able to find much of that info anywhere. Mike...........

Where to begin, and how to put this, without coming across like a "scrooge"/ especially since it is just slightly over a day away from Christmas. We celebrate because we are free. But each morning I get up to watch the news, I am gently reminded, so many "Americans" have lost or never had a respect for our freedom.... To all my brother's and sister's in arms..... I hope one day our Nation respects you for all you have done..... Freedoms Cry If by chance, you should see me cry It’s not for those who fought and died It’s for the one’s, that don’t understand Freedoms price in this great land It’s for those with outstretched hands Greedy hearts from a foreign land It’s for the ones with a black hole to fill Unknown to them it’s an empty thrill It’s for those who never give Never feeling the power of how to live It’s for those who have bickered and complained But never tried to make a change It’s for the one’s that cannot see How shallow they are, “not even a please†It’s for all of these and so many more That mock what our “forces†try to implore The freedom we have is bought with a price Blood, sweat, and tears when “forces†unite So the tears I cry, may one day be dry In hopes of a Nation that understands WHY?

Well after using my snowblower it's become very clear that I'll need some form of protection from the snow. However this cab is going to be slightly different as I want to be able to remove the front frame work in the summer abd use the top as a sun screen. I'm using electrical conduit for the framework and have black and clear vynil for the skin. Here is the progress so far:

'85/'86 models had a Kohler K341 engine '87/'88 models had an M16 Magnum '89-'97 models had Onan P216 engines I see an '87/'88 up there, but no way of knowing which.

ill try to post some pics this week.

like was mentioned above, when the clutch is pushed in the belt needs to come out of the engine pulley slightly so its not being turned by the pulley anymore. with the belt guard installed and guide tabs working, all movement from the belt should cease when the clutch is pushed down, in turn stopping the pulley on the trans from moving...... that is the key to being able to select a gear, all movement inside the trans needs to stop. if the belt doesn't stop moving, the trans hasn't stopped either......

Well the snow thrower is back in operation and working perfectly. I have to say I wish I would have made the switch from the 2 stage sooner. I was able to retain the original jackshaft as the new pulley with a new key had to been driven on and was a very snug fit. The drive sprocket was in good shape and with the new bearings everything ran smoothly. I used Loctite for all of the set screws and worked the thrower for about twenty minutes then checked everything over. I finished my driveway which included widening plow harden banks and taking out about 5 inches of freshly fallen snow. This tractor and snow thrower are a great combination. Thanks all for the advice.

I have a gravel driveway. I set the skids at high as they go for the first couple of snows. Then when I have a hardpack from cars on the drive I set it about a 1/2" then everything is good. No rocks here. Tom

I'm glad you FINALLY posted pictures! Gees, its like you have been busy or something.... I went over to Van's place a last week and saw his WH collection, including this tractor. I had a great time talking with him and his son. I expect this tractor to clean up very nicely! Some mothers mag wheel polish on the hub caps, simple green, and some elbow grease will have this one looking nice! Here is what the ad picture looked like, and it goes to show that sometimes bad pictures can work out in your favor. The tractor is MUCH nicer than this picture shows. I couldn't believe how quite it was!

I usually just use a blower on real deep snows and we havent had any since I bought it,, but like everyone above I have my skids set all the way down. Stones will go through the blower but are hard on it, rocks (bigger than stones) can do damage to the auger when they get wedged. I use to use a Gravely walkbehind and totally destroyed an impeller (made of 1/4 steel) once picking up a rock in an area that I shouldnt have been in with a blower.

Hope you have a Long and Happy Retirement Jim...ease in to it gently.

Congrats Jim, Hope you enjoy your retirement.

Original Cab framework shown here for reference.

It's 3/4" galvanized steel conduit from lowes, $3.50 for a 10' stick.

Looks like a coulter wheel with a cleaner on it Real big Pizza cutter ???

I did this on one of my 953s several years back. I had to drill one new hole in the trans mount plate on the 953 and drill and tap a hole in the 1267 trans. Made up a templeat of each bolt patern and went from there. I used the axle shafts from the 953 in the 8 speed and used a smaller input pulley (otherwise it would have been too fast with the taller tires). Not too bad of a job, but please post pictures as you do it.

I don't see your specific model listed, but something in here should help you. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/download/2600-tractor-1994-416-8-416-8e-ipl-3316-927pdf/ the manual lift parts diagram is in the third download...(3316-927 1994 416-8 416-8e Pt3 IPL.pdf)

I'd listen to Terry's advice Kevin - even when he doesn't know what he is talking about, he still knows twice as much as the rest of us! I agree that 8 speed internals wont go into a 4 speed case. I actually have a 1054 here that has been fitted (badly) with an 8 speed. I haven't had a chance to mess with it much, so I'm sure I haven't seen all the problems with the swap yet. FWIW my tractor doesn't appear to have any spacers fitted to the hubs (I've never pulled off the rear wheels). Caution: Pics of ugliness follow. Pic of holes slotted in the trans mounting plate: The axles are about 1 1/2" too short. I haven't pulled the hubs to see where the setscrew sits on the key: Axle length from underneath: My plan at this stage (keeping in mind I really don't know what I am talking about either!!!) is to switch in a set of D axles. If I had a 953/1054 4 speed I'd use that in a heartbeat, but I would probably switch in an 8 pinion differential.

Well at least I have company!!! I'm not Totally alone!!!

RESULTS AS OF MONDAY 12/30 WINNING TEAMS...NAVY, MISSISSIPPI, OREGON, TEXAS TECH. WEIGHING IN AT... 4 WINS AND 0 LOSSES.........BLUFFHUNTER, BK-SCOUTER 2 WINS AND 2 LOSSES.........STEVASAURUS, RACINBOB, JIMD 1 WIN AND 3 LOSSES...........SQUONK, DUKE, BRRLY1 TOTALS AFTER 13 BOWL GAMES 7 WINS AND 6 LOSSES.........STEVASAURUS, BLUFFHUNTER, JIMD, BK-SCOUTER 6 WINS AND 7 LOSSES.........RACINBOB 4 WINS AND 9 LOSSES.........SQUONK, DUKE, BRRLY1 4 GAMES TODAY...TUESDAY 12/31

Nice link there...thanks for it sharing Jim.

Yep ! I been collecting since most of you were in diapers and have give away as many as I have sold Mine are not restored as many consider restored but they have been stripped and repainted so no matter who eventually gets them they will be VERY VERY restorable.

If that's an implication that you're pumping through the original pump with the electric pump, bypass it immediately. The last thing you want is a ruptured pump diaphragm allowing fuel into the crankcase.

Yeah... It's kinda like that. Same where I live in Cleveland. Everyone snickered when I rolled into town with the garden tractor. They did not see the snow blower in the trailer. I let them have their fun for several months. It only would take me 10 minutes to mow my lawn, so I decided to mow 4 yards, at once. It kept the grass looking consistent and allowed the tractor to work a little more. Finally when it was time to put the snow blower on, and the cab, everyone stopped laughing and snickering then. Now I get thumbs up everywhere I go. When I pull into the gas station to fill up, it always becomes, a conversation piece. The best is when the policemen give me the thumbs up also. I drive it right down the streets. They know I am going to help someone out, they all have passed by me once or twice. Funny how lenient they become when there is snow on the ground and you have equipment to remove it. Laws do not seem to come into play then. But I am sure, someone somewhere, is calling me a hillbilly and making fun of me... Oh well, water off a duck's back..

My 520 with the Kwik-Way has rear ags filled with rim guard, and 88 pounds of steel weight attached to each rim. WIth that set-up, I can use the loader for almost everything, and don't have to use extra weight attached to the rear axle. The beast is long enough as is. The weight rack hanging off the rear end makes it very difficult to manuver in tight spaces. I can add weight as needed using Matt's 2" hitch and a weight box if I am working with something really heavy. The 520 with the blower and cab also has 88 pounds of steel weight on each rear, and 30 on each front. The front weight helps when turning with the 2-stage blower. TIres are turfmasters with 2-bar chains on the rear. I think tri-ribs on the front would help with steering, and will probably make the switch when these wear out. Next year, I get to add a 400 pound hard shell Cozy Cab. Nothing will stop me, Bwah Ha Ha Ha...!

If you don't have the proper tools and ability to use them (micrometers) take the engine to a reputable machine shop and have them measure the engine and make a recommendation for an overhaul plan including machine work and parts. they will probably not use OEM Kohler parts, but Kohler didn't make their own pistons and rings,, they bought them from a tier 1 supplier in bulk and had repair parts kits packaged in their logo packaging for the retail market.

Here's my 4x4 C-101

here's my RJ58 custom stainless Brian

The Lawn Ranger in the top picture is a 1964 model 34 E with a 1962/63 steering wheel and a replacement engine block. A 1964 should have a two spoke steering wheel and a 3/4 pipe threaded exhaust system. The second Lawn Ranger is either a L-155 or L-156 that also has a replacement steering wheel, seat and the short block has been replaced with the bolt on exhaust system. A 1967 L-107/L-157 Lawn Ranger did not have the "Lawn Ranger" decal on the belt guard. Both of these Lawn Rangers should have a data plate under the steering wheel on the hood stand and also used the Tecumseh H-60 aluminum block engine. Wild Bill Richmond, VA