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a quick update: so as with all things, the proof is with the pudding. The PO stated that he had the starter go out and then just parked it last year. after cleaning the engine, changing fuel lines etc and then check out the starter. Briggs decides to have a plastic/nylon gear on the starter(Why?) and it looks like Stevasaurus at the end of the Big Show, but I digress, so buy a rebuild kit (thanks EricJ) and attach it up and engine runs on carb cleaner only, then the gear shreds. Hmmmm. starter alignment looks good, flywheel is fine. a buddy has another starter and all is good. more on Mr Briggs starter woes later. So break into the fuel pump/carb issue (tiny fuel pump springs that I used tweezers to place back into the pump...Mr Briggs needs a talking to from Mr Stratton. still nothing and no fuel getting up there. EricJ reminds me that sometimes you have to give the old girl a big smooch! So after blowing into the gas tank (glad no one was watching) she fires up and roars (at least as a Briggs version of a roar) and take her out in the pouring rain wearing my old flight suit and the neighbors probally are still shaking their heads. The speed of the this faster Eaton 1100 compared to my 88 520 is noted. back and forth in the rain to try to get the tranny warm and she is strong until..... a spray of tranny oil up from the shifter plate dampens the day and I retreat back to the garage. But first, I have to put Dawn, HF part cleaner(it's Biodegrade) car wash down on the driveway and hose and squegee it down...again the neighbors wonder why I'm out there in the rain washing my driveway in a sodden old flight suit. that was my Sunday. I was lovin every minute of it since the wife never saw it! Shhhh!

When buying a tractor, and the owner says it's been in storage for a long time... do yourself a favor and pull the tins, you may be surprised what you find lurking in there.

If that's an implication that you're pumping through the original pump with the electric pump, bypass it immediately. The last thing you want is a ruptured pump diaphragm allowing fuel into the crankcase.

In another post there was conversation on buying American and how some try to do it when they can. I found this website and thought some others might appreciate it as well. I have no association with this site at all. http://www.americansworking.com/

Felt short, been working 9 hours. Still working part time.

FINALLY have the crew together (including my 48" squeegee ) for this year's winter weather. It started off nicely in December, and hopefully the rest of winter will be full of snow!

Got a 104" belt this morning and it is working just fine so far. Blew snow for about two hours cleaning up the bits and pieces the plow guy left. Finally getting some use from this unit and I think, with a little patience and practice, I may even be able to keep from sliding sideways when I get too close to the ditches. Happy New Year to all and thanks for your help. Bob

Yes storm work is bad and dangerous work. I was a Journeyman Lineman for 41 years, had plenty of storms summer and winter, very dangerous work. I went on the storm work yes for the money, but also to help those that did not have power. Most times my family had power and so I needed to help those without. Please have patience, these men and women have a very dangerous and difficult job, under very bad weather conditions. Usually 16 hours on and 8 hours off. Please say a prayer for safety for them all, I know I have walked in their shoes. Bob Blough , JL retired.

I agree with Mike (squonk) ! Don you would have had a youtube hit with that tranny oil spray event!

I should have know better. When I turned it over a live one bailed out.

I'm having some trouble getting my D180 to keep running when the gas tank gets below a certain point. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump. Am I correct in thinking there is a vacuum pump on those things? The connection seems to be a bit loose and my hunch is that it's not sucking the fuel like it should. I know a couple people have had success with electric fuel pumps. Any thoughts out there?

Hey.. i have done some upgrade on the horse and put on 4 bolt's on the front wheel's.. i have been thinking of that for a long time but never found the right part's for it.. but i finaly found a trailer hub kit that i bought... So here are som pict of what i did.. that axel was about 10 inch long so i had to cut it down to the right lenght.. and then i drilled a hole innside it about 1.5 inch and then it fit's on the original 3/4 spindel. And time to cut some more and both ready for some welding Finish whit welding time to try them on the tractor.. and as you can see they also has a greasepoint.. had some 10 inch trailer wheels that i put on so i could move the tractor and wait to ill got the other tires mounted on the rim's and finaly they are on the tractor Going to paint the rim's later dont have the time to fix that atm.. other project's whit higer priority.. Lars

Well after using my snowblower it's become very clear that I'll need some form of protection from the snow. However this cab is going to be slightly different as I want to be able to remove the front frame work in the summer abd use the top as a sun screen. I'm using electrical conduit for the framework and have black and clear vynil for the skin. Here is the progress so far:

I FINISHED THE CLEANUP ON MY 1988 312-8 TRACTOR. HERE IS THE FINISHED PRODUCT. I WILL TRY TO SELL IT IN THE SPRING. IT HAS 3 YEAR OLD 42" DECK AND 610 HOURS ON TRACTOR. BOWTIE IN OHIO

I have a Toro Wheel Horse 314-8 that I am going to sell. Found it at a Toro Dealer still in the shipping container in 2000 and have owned it ever since. Pictures attached. Kohler Command 14 42" Side Discharge Deck Hours On Clock 390 Clutch needs adjusting, but otherwise pretty good shape, always kept in a shed, used only for mowing my yard. The hours are low because for several years I had a service mow my yard due to time requirements of my business. Retired a few years ago and started mowing again myself. Planned to send it to the shop for clutch adjustment, check belts & general maintenance over this winter and get ready for spring. However circumstances have changed and we are scaling down to an apartment and I no longer need the mower. I am in North Carolina and would like to get an idea of what it is worth ? Thanks for you help !! Denny Pugh

As any of you with a YouTube channel will of noticed by now, Google is forcing us to have a Google+ account so we can reply to "all" comments (They have really messed the comments system up as it happens, making it much harder to find all the comments). As I like to reply as much as I can (even if I'm sometimes a bit slow doing so) I good myself a Google+ account +UkWheelHorseBloke if your interested... The trouble is I have no idea how it works or what I should be doing with it! I've never been a chap for social media sites and have no interest in FarceBook or Twatter, so I'm just not used to that sort of thing.. People have been adding me to their Google+ circles, If I don't add them to mine can we not see what each other is posting? It's all very confusing

I do have to say I got my revenge last week. I was changing the oil on the C-165 and sat the pan under the tractor and pulled the plug. Came out an hour later button her up and refill the engine. Went to drain the used oil and found a strange "blob" in the used oil pan. Mouse had fallen in the pan and couldn't get out. Well, one less to worry about!

Jim- Enjoy every minute of it !!

Not to mention the productivity ! Welcome to the Retiree Club Jim

Just like I said in our birthday post. You won't have time to change your mind now!

So...I made the switch over to the five holer today, and finally got my plow mounted up. Just in time because the Weather man is suggesting a "significant snow event" may be coming in Thurs of this week..should have just enough time to put the vinyl back in place on my 520's cab too... then I'll have my two biggest 's on stand by, at the ready to tag team it...if need be.

Definitely mechanical - easy to maintain, can feather on and implement No 3 point hitch, clevis hitch is OK for me. I might also consider a sun shade on the mower/worker - keep the head from turning Wheelhorse red... A little side note on the Wheelhorse mechanical PTO. It is stunning at how much simpler the Wheelhorse mechanical PTO is to access and service vs my old iron other color tractors. Another reason I'm considering riding myself of the other color tractors and throwing my tractor eggs into the Wheelhorse basket...

Looked familiar ground. Was up that way about 20 years back and drowned my Land Rover S111.

I think we had about two pounds of mice house insulation blown out of 12 horse Kohler motor on a C-160 that sat for seven years! Beats all I ever saw before! Must have been a condo arrangement!

Jake, Welcome to redsquare, come and say hello in the euro section. Second the others, clean the pump, carb, etc it's always worthwhile. Whereabouts in Scotland are you? Mark

Belated welcome Jake, Only just found your Thread on here. Hope you find all the bits you need. As has already been said, when the whole Fuel system has had a good overhaul and a tune up, it will run and sound a whole better. Look forward to more pics. PS if you have any probs with parts, post a Thread in Euro Horse Forum here and I'll see what I can sort for you. Regards

Have since, mounted a pulley on the winch mount post, and attach the winch hook, closer to the plow, for easier lift. Winch removes with 2 pins to move to rear of tractor. Removing 1 pin, allows the mount to pivot, to allow the hood to open. Has worked good for a few years now. If doing again, I would make the plow mounting pin, larger than the 1/2" one I used.

very nicely done. i have the same set of photos. but in reverse order.

Plenty of garage space for that '56 here in Rocky Hill. Heck there's even a pile of money here too that will buy a lot of truck parts Only one pile of money? Might need two piles for that one....

Could it be a blown head gasket and worn piston rings allowing the oil to get to the top of the piston?

Pull the fuel supply line off the pump and see if gas runs out freely there. You could have a problem ahead of the pump. If the gas runs freely then reinstall the gas line, remove the fuel live from the carb and engage the starter for a few revolutions to see if it pumps fuel. If it does not, then you know what to do next (replace the fuel pump). If it does pump fuel then the carb needle may be stuck in the seat. This would not allow the pump to move fuel into the carb. Todays gas can cause the needle to stick in the seat if the tractor is left unattended too long.

I had a hotel constructed in the muffler of an old MTD I had. I didn't know it was there until a ball of flaming material come sailing out of the muffler.

Here is what i got its a gt14 with a homemade loader and cab.

WD40 is good for initial water dispersal, but long term, I found this Bike Teflon Dry Lube by Finishline to be excellent at laying down a film of water repellent wax. Available everywhere that sells Bikes. http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chain-lubricants/dry-lube When the panel joints on your WH are dry, just squirt some in and it dries. I've used the Aerosol Can version for years. Also great for protecting/lubricating and resists dirt......ok ! It's not perfumed like WD40, so bung some Aftershave on your WH if you want

Wheel Horse had special belts made (by Gates Belt), they were heavier duty "Agricultural Belts", type 'H', and they used a slightly different side angle or bevel than regular belts do. They cost about 10-20% more than regular belts, but seem to give a much much longer life, often 2-3 times. If the belt is running at a high speed, for long periods & under stress, I would recommend definitely going with Wheel Horse/TORO belts only. Usually belts seem to stretch in use. In the WH book I have, ("Drive Belt & Blade Usage Charts", #492-0392, Nov '00), could not find a 104.35" belt listed; but it is very common for WH belts to be in fractional inches. Post your blower model; (ie. a '98 44" 2x Blower #79366 took #100-4164 Belt)

How did I know you would have a comment? No these mice have better construction materials avaliable to them.

It's getting crowded here down in the basement.... -BK

That is one expensive rototiller. I am sure the guy driving the Deere was a little "steamed" after that performance...

i enjoyed the pics. Your family farm land is beautiful. Have you removed the bowl (on the bottom) of the carburator to give it and the float a good cleaning? Use a small brass bristled parts cleaner brush to clean the bowl and float. Clean the needle and seat too. Also while the carburator is apart, spray everything clean using a can of "Brakecleaner". You do not have to take the carburator off the engine to perform that cleaning. Also remove the low speed and high speed adjustment screws and clean them and also those passages in the carburator. This should be all you need to do to get the carburator back to good shape. Note* Check the throttle shart for excessive wear. If you can wiggle the shaft around, the carburator will need to be removed and a new bushing installed. Reason being too much air is being pulled through the carburator there causing the engine to run too lean. You will not be able to adjust the carburator properly.

3V315 Gates or Napa .38"x31.5" Believe this is a raw edge automotive belt. The original 1583 in the belt chart is listed as 3Lx33" but believe that is wrong. Should be 31-1/2" Garry

My wife can tell when I have been in the garage!

I put the crank center line in the same location also. I raised the Vanguard 7/8" to get the right height with two 1/2" x 2" flat bars and a 3/8" plate under the engine. I also used the standard C-120 belts and belt guard unmodified. I also have two washers behind each bolt on the PTO bracket as I modified the original engine mounting holes. I also used a spacer behind the PTO in the crank shaft. I did drill two new holes in the battery box and turned the battery around to move the battery post to the rear. I also sawed a 2" hole in the gas tank tray and have to remove the gas tank to change the rear spark plug. Rotated the solenoid switch up as far as possible on the starter to clear the battery. As I have said before it's a tight fit on a C-120. I needed the pressure oil system as my yard is far from level. By back yard slopes 16' in 200' with a few 35 degree slopes thrown in. The front is some what better with slopes on the upper and lower sides.

Steve, I ran out and took a picture. Also did the math and its not quite fifty years old. Its a 66 Chevy short bed. Her grandpa bought to use for a farm truck and that's about all it was used for. Its on the list to do after about ten other things.

Hi John, Attached is a picture of the back of the tractor, you get a better view of the piece of pvc pipe near the bottom of the cab. That is there in case the blower chute becomes clogged with wet snow. I push the pipe down into the chute, some of the snow goes inside the pipe, pull it out, shake out the snow and repeat. The pvc is pretty harmless to the metal of the chute. If the snow is so wet that it is going to clog the chute, my glove would get soaked cleaning it out, so this is the solution that I came up with. Luckily I don't need it too often, but it is nice to have out with me when I need it. Rick

Merry Christmas Bob, Yeah, its the old a picture is worth a thousand words. Hope you get to blow some snow real soon. I have added a motivational picture for you here. This is from a blizzard last winter. I have just made it to the street with the blower, after clearing 550 feet of driveway, and are about to punch through. The snow was so deep I would first blow it with the blower in the raised position, then back-up and hit it again with it lowered. The one thing you will find out is that if you have a lot of snow to blow, you will go through quite a lot of gas. Just before this storm hit I got concerned if I had enough gas on hand, and I ran out and purchased a 5 gallon gas can to go with the three 2 1/2 gallon cans that I had filled. Clearing the drive I went through all the 2 1/2 gallon cans, and just started on the 5 gallon. If you want to play, you have to pay!! Always run the blower at full throttle. Enjoy the day. Rick

God save us from the people who want to make the world a better place.

I use straight 90 wt in all the transmissions that I have...and the ones I have rebuilt for others. After I finish rebuilding one, I bench test it for about 1/2 hour while using all the gears. I clamp a 1/3 hsp motor to the bench, run a long fan belt to the trans drive pulley, and plug it in. The speed seems comparable to driving at full throttle. The reason I tell you all this, is because I can look down the shifter hole with a flash light and watch what the gears do to the oil. The transmission gears, literally, throw the oil all over the inside of the trans, and I have done some of these transmissions in the winter months. This is how the parts of the transmission, that do not sit in the oil, get lubricant...like your shift forks, all of your bearings, the axles and your fork gears...(keep in mind that oil has to get through the #1533 bearings and run the axles to lube the outer axle bearings). With all that being said, I am not sure using the thicker oil, especially in winter, gives proper lubrication. I would think there is no way I would want an oil viscosity in my trans that bogs down the engine. Just my thoughts on it. What do you guys think about mixing equal parts of Tony's 140 wt oil with 40 wt oil and thinning it to 90 wt???

plow blade and front of frame from a Deere - 1-1/2 square steel tubing welded up for the rest of the frame

Bill - make sure you fully clean the shaft. It is best to let it run on a wire wheel of a bench grinder if you have one. Make sure after the cam is reinstalled with the cam lever that it freely pivots forwards and backwards with little to no friction.