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I guess I'd better post my Raider 20 6X6 here then You all know the story by now.. It's been dragging on for long enough She started life as a humble and very worn C-125.. A body swap soon had her looking like this... Enter Garry and some beer.. And the idea was born Over four years later she looked like you know her now..

For those of you who might not have the energy to type out the entire word, I am offering the following to be copied and pasted wherever you see fit - and totally free of charge. Take only one - or as many as you like: Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas I'm not here to endorse or promote religion, nor am I a religious fanatic - but I do respect the true meaning of the holiday. Besides......... Some of us really don't want to deal with an X on Christmas. Merry Christmas!

They're walk-behind mowers. NO ONE on this forum should be walking behind a mower!

I've been rebuilding kohlers for over 35 years. Only do the k series now. If required it's bored, crank ground, valve seats ground, valves replaced or resurfaced, valve guides replaced if needed. New piston, rod, rings, seals and rebuild carb. Located in Richmond Virginia. I have little to no over head and my rebuild prices are 60-75 % less then dealers or machine shops in the area. PM me for details. I don't do pulling engines. Mine go back to spec.

I just heard from a friend in Michigan. He says it's been snowing heavily for 3 days. His wife has done nothing but stare through the window. If it doesn't stop soon, he'll probably have to let her in!

Here's mine, been reliably getting the job done for a few thousand years.

I'm thinking you've just regifted this from last year... not that it's a bad thing...I mean, it still works right? It just has this one missing...Merry Christmas.

Thanks you guys for the input. I HAVE to make sure this thing gets done. I don't really have much of a choice especially since we are dead in the water until we have a warm place to work. Unfortunately I don't know how long that will take either. The conversations, singing, and sharing of jokes has been one of the highlights for me. Being their physical education teacher, I don't get to know them like their home room teachers do. These are GREAT kids that really make me laugh!

Thank you guys for the nice words and the encouragment as always. I truly feel blessed and honestly can't believe all of the good things that have transpired over the past couple of months. Excited to see where this journey takes us. I can say that I am the one that is blessed through this project. These kids are such an inspiration and always great to work with. I was kind of nervous proposing this idea to administration and I am thankful that they gave me the blessing to proceed with the club. What a journey it has been and I can't wait to see where it takes us. Thank you to all of you that have found interest in our little club and are willing to follow along with our progress. Now the hard part.............to me I feel like we are running out of time. I am considering getting the rest of the parts sandblasted to help speed up the process. Through this I am also considering having everything powder coated. I really don't want to go that route for this first tractor...........but we don't have heat and I am not sure how soon we will have it. I really want the kids to paint and have their touches left on every part but I have to be realistic and know that we need to get cracking on this thing. These past few weeks we haven't made much progress due to the weather. I have a lot to think about and set up a plan that makes the most sense and will help us get to our final goal of having a tractor completely restored. What do you guys think?????

This One Used To Do It. But Now It's My Back Up. This Chucker Took Over The Duty.

The first measurable snow the other day in two years and Oke' is pestering to go out - to do this! After that it was time to play. Who says only reindeer can fly. This guy is 11 years old and took the stairs in the background in one bound!

Here are a couple of videos and photos of our 1st snow of the 2013-2014 winter. Click for video click for video

My GT14 has regular garden tires on it, with chains installed. Works fine in woods (hauling firewood out), and works fine in the snow snowblowing. BUT, it's bunpy and lumpy and makes noise when I'm on the street with the chains. I often have to go a 100 yards or so down the payvment to get to the woods.... and I'm sure that doesn't do the chains any good. So, would I be better off with an Agro type tire? Do agro's work ok in the snow, as good as chains? OR?

When it comes to Xmas sometimes it's best to buy a present for yourself - something useful that you actually want so....... Despite already having two snow blades, one for the C-100 and one for the 316 my attention was grabbed by a NOS blade that appeared on recently. A little bit of research confirmed that it was for the 200 series tractors like my 216-5 so although these are not the best tractors for pushing snow I was certainly interested though not at the starting price being asked. When it attracted no bids I made an offer that was accepted and a 270 mile round trip made to Droitwich today saw a new addition to my collection of WH attachments. Having laid out the bits on the living room carpet for a photo (yes, it's that clean!) I felt a bit guilty about not paying the original asking price but my offer was accepted and apparently the guy selling had been made a better offer but to adapt it to fit on a Kubota .... but being a guy with a couple of C's himself amongst other tractors, said he'd rather see it go to be fitted onto a WH - that's how good true WH people are I guess. I'm getting the C-100 ready for snow duty at the moment - this year with some ATV tire chains by 'Moose' in the USA which, given the small amount of snow we get down here, will probably be enough but there's the 316 that can also be 'plowed up' so as to speak if the forecasters are right and we get significant snow this winter and if I get the time (it's a big if) then it would be nice to get the new plow onto the 216 if only for a photo shoot if it does actually snow. Andy

A guy here has this for sale along with some other vintage attachments. He's even offering a sickle-bar mower! I'm more concerned with this grader blade though. As far as I can tell all of the grader blades (both mid and rear mount) fit all the tractors except for the D-series. Is that correct? This looks like an mid-hitch old 40" model. Will this fit my 400-series tractors? Presumably there should be some kind of lever to control the angle.... is it missing or maybe just not in the pictures? In order for this to be considered 'complete' (i.e. I don't have to add anything to make it work) what should be included? Thanks in advance!

I am wondering how to get either of these filters out and how or even if I should replace them. One is for the oil bath filter and the other is for the glass sediment bowl filter on the bottom of the gas tank. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I meant to put up a post about this some weeks back but have finally got round to it. I thought I was going mad and that I'd lost the plot when it came to including a video from Youtube in a post. In the end I discovered that it was due to the fact that I was using the https version of Google which in turn then directs you to https Youtube by default and that the forum software can't (or couldn't at that time) deal with the necessaries if presented with a video url starting with https rather than http. I thought I'd mention it in case it catches others out but perhaps it has now been dealt with - if not it may need seeing to as I understand Google may go over to https only. In my experimenting I've also noticed that when an https Google search links you to an standard http url you randomly get a 'page cannot be displayed' message on occasions which, if you hit the refresh button then mirraculously appears without issue. Andy

It's a well built unit to say the least. It's important to keep in mind that our tractors weigh in at a whopping 600-700#. I say that because I'm sure there are a few nuts out there who would put a 2" ball in this hitch and try to move a 4000# trailer. Fortunately this chipper was a mere 1200#. And my ballast back carries 200-500# when the snow blower is mounted

Thx 2 U and Merry Christmas

Yep!, we all know how hard it is to get parts here and in EU , also if you can justify/afford the cost. Just thought I would ask the question if anyone has either wanted or had to replace the Axle Shaft(s) in the UK/EU?. If this is so, has anyone purchased new Shaft(s) ?......I would assume most would look for another Transmission for parts or replacement, or try to repair and make do..,.....like the 'Super Skilled' Lars did with his . The reason I ask is that I would like 2 new 8spd 1 1/8" shafts myself, as they're not in great condition near the seals. The price of my new ones (#102764) is off the 'Sane Scale' and have no idea what is included in the 'Kit' stated by Partstree and Toro (1 or 2 shafts? incl seals? who knows?). As I'm already making the Trans - Rear Hitch Pins to WH spec, thought I'd go for machining Splines & Grooves as well. I'll tear down my spare knackered 8 speed that I want to rebuild and get the Shafts measured for the 'Grade of Hardness'. I'll require one expensive item of tooling to be able to make my own Shafts and probably most other sizes for WH at a more acceptable cost. I also have the places local to me for materials and the facilities for Heat Treating to spec. Just need to cost them up. So I'll let you know when I start cutting the metal.

Injecting a shot of helium in this topic. I just got a fresh shipment in for the season and thought I'd share! (take as many as you like!) Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas Christmas

Chuck I just had a friend ask me a similiar "ethanol in gas; remove it with water" question which has prompted me to dig a little more on how effective water is in pulling ethanol out of gasoline -- The best measure of this property is a value called the "octanal/water partition coefficient"; octanol being a good analog for gasoline -- This value says that ethanol is about 2x as soluble in water as it is in octanol So what that means for the 'video' sample you ran is there is still plenty of ethanol in the gas layer -- If you repeated this exercise adding an equal amount of water to gasoline, the resultant concentration of ethanol in your water level is 2x greater than the ethanol concentration in your gas layer (i.e. the gas ethanol content is about 33% of what came out of the pump) -- Since in your case you water amount is about 1/5 of the gas amount; according to my back of the envelope calculation estimates that you removed about 1/3 of the total ethanol in the original gas sample with that single wash And everyone needs to remember that when doing this washing exercise you are saturating your gas with water (I saw a value of 0.1% today doing a quick Google scan for that value)

holy moly that's one sweet case. nice work, your friend would be proud!

I think you are correct in your thinking. Ideally you would not go this way but I think this a better solution so that you are assured the project can be concluded prior to the end of the school year. Weigh what you are suggesting against the disappointment for the kids in an unfinished tractor at the end of the year! Just no contest right, yup I think you are correct in your thinking.

This such an amazing thing for a school project. I coach and have coached sports for 20 years, and the one thing I have learned is that it always gave me more than it did my athletes. I used to get my wrestling team together on Thanksgiving morning. We would play games, laugh, but most importantly we would sit and talk. Some of these kids never had anyone to listen. This Thanksgiving one of those kids called me after 15 years crying and told me thank you for giving him a Thanksgiving memory. So for them to sit next to another kid who they may or may not know, while sanding (the most boring thing in the world) and maybe just being able to listen, could change a life. If someone makes the time, there will always be someone to take that time. Hats off to you, and to all of you who have donated items, it truly is being noticed.

Well isn't that the best news you can get for Christmas Time. As I've already said, I reckon you'll be on 2 Club days a week in the New Year !. Happy for you Scott !.

I am sure that crane is getting a little less mpg's than your VW. I always wanted a VW Rabbit diesel. One of my teachers in High School had one way back in the late 70's. He claimed it got between 50 and 60 mpg. By the way, that looks like a 30 ton truck crane. So it probably weighs between 70 and 90,000 pounds depending on how much counter weight he has on.

Wheel horse Snow Team 2013

Gator Blades will definitely improve the cut of both the SD and RD; and using a dual blade system (both 3 Gator and the 3 original blades, = 12 cutting edges) will greatly improve both the cut quality and the throw of both mower discharges. All the issues, Pros & Cons have been well addressed above . . . but, grass types, blade length, moisture, ground condition, speed and your standards are all important factors that have to be considered. And a part of the equation has to do with our personal preferences. Using an added rear baffle extension on the RD will greatly reduce the up-draft of clippings.

Turning out sweet matt! :bow-blue: makes me miss my 155 again lol....

Have you considered using an "ETANK" on the wheel to get rid of the rust and let you remove the wheel safely. Lots of good threads on the subject on here. Hope it will . Good luck and keep us posted.

Interesting, I'm the exact opposite. Rear if the grass is long and side if mow often. There are pluses and minuses to both but here's my take. RD Pro's Doesn't clog with long wet grass Doesn't eject clippings out the front of the deck to get sucked in by a powerful Onan Can tow a sweeper to pick up clippings Trim mow on both sides without getting clippings in the flower bedss Easier to maneuver in tight places Able to accept recycler adapter RD Cons: Cut not as clean as SD can't blow leaves / clippings onto neighbors lawn When trimming leaves clippings right against the wall Your back can get messier with clippings ejecting out the back onto your shirt SD Pro's: Cleaner cut Can blow leaves and clippings onto neighbors lawn for him / her to clean up SD Cons: Has tendency to eject clippings at the left front and into the fan of the machines (Serious problem for Onan owners) Can not trim on both sides Far wider, making it less maneuverable Can not use a sweeper at same time Clogs with long wet grass (at least mine does!) Not as cool looking as a RD +1 I have both and like both. I alternate using the SD vs RD decks - that's the cool thing about these Wheelhorse decks, you can use them on more than one tractor. One thing I like about the RD decks is the ability to trim on both sides, so direction of mowing is never an issue. With the RD, I never have to sweep off the sidewalks or patio from grass clippings. I have mowed and towed a sweeper with the RD at the same time - works great! My 48 inch SD decks work great too! I can't explain, maybe it's the kid in my, but the thing I like most about the SD decks is simply enjoying the seat time and watching the grass fly out of the SD deck... But.... If you have two tractors, you might as well fit each tractor with a mowing deck and use both...

Interesting, I'm the exact opposite. Rear if the grass is long and side if mow often. There are pluses and minuses to both but here's my take. RD Pro's Doesn't clog with long wet grass Doesn't eject clippings out the front of the deck to get sucked in by a powerful Onan Can tow a sweeper to pick up clippings Trim mow on both sides without getting clippings in the flower bedss Easier to maneuver in tight places Able to accept recycler adapter RD Cons: Cut not as clean as SD can't blow leaves / clippings onto neighbors lawn When trimming leaves clippings right against the wall Your back can get messier with clippings ejecting out the back onto your shirt SD Pro's: Cleaner cut Can blow leaves and clippings onto neighbors lawn for him / her to clean up SD Cons: Has tendency to eject clippings at the left front and into the fan of the machines (Serious problem for Onan owners) Can not trim on both sides Far wider, making it less maneuverable Can not use a sweeper at same time Clogs with long wet grass (at least mine does!) Not as cool looking as a RD

I have used both, and while they both have pros and cons, ....I don't necessarily like the rear discharge because your back get SUPER dirty with dust and grass clippings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You kind of answered your own question about that pulley. It does not need to be installed for a dozer blade to push snow, it's used for the mower deck only. But, it's usually easier to just leave it on because the roll pin that retains the pedal can be a pain to remove and replace each time. Here's a pic of one installed on the same tractor. Let me know if you need any more detail

Bob, you are correct...you and Duff were tied last year in the bowl picks...I hope you both get in to pick the bowl games again...my mistake... You and Jim need to take a step back and relax. I hope I have my camera ready when you are wearing a Michigan sweat shirt and Jim is wearing an Ohio St. sweatshirt and you give each other a hug...and the caption says..."What's wrong with this picture??". "If it was not for sport, this would be OK". :ROTF:

What??????? Were FAMILY....... cause MSU is our Lil Sister! Actually Just Like ND I root for 12 Teams Which are MICHIGAN and anyone who plays oHio or ND! I will always pull for a team located in my HOME STATE. Glad there was room on the ... :ROTF:

you still have something in the fuel system if its not running smooth. might be in the rest of the fuel system, but i bet the carb still has some junk in it. either you missed it or when you put it back together something in the fuel system made its way to the carb. i would start at the tank and work forward. if you just do the carb, whatever you miss in the rest of the system is just going to undo your work. im not sure how much cleaning you did other than soaking in sea foam. i had a similar issue with my 416, heres an excerpt of the thread '416 adventures'....... ............................................................................. well i got impatient waiting for the sea foam to do its job and tore into the carb tonight. i read a few posts on here about just cleaning the carb on the engine and thought id see if that would help. heres one such post…. I've been inside nikki carbs used on performer engines before so i knew what i was going to see when i pulled the top off. the main running problem was at idle and mid range. well it had no idle at all so that was where i started looking. besides a whole bunch of junk in the bowl (which the sea foam wouldn't have got out in 1000 hours of running) the removable slow idle jet was blocked in the bottom 3 holes with junk. heres a pic of that brass jet and where it goes…... then i blasted carb cleaner in all the passages and bowl, cleaning as much as possible. removed the mixture screw and cleaned through as well. removed the main jet plug and jacked up the back of the tractor to allow all the junk to flow out into a rag and container to stop making a mess all over the engine. re assembled the carb and primed it with gas ( using the mouth blow on the gas tank opening……. ) and she fired up and now runs nice and smooth…... thanks didn't run it with the air cleaner and breather was a little noisy at idle………. take a look at the video…...

Here's my 4x4 C-101

It really seems like a long time since I did my last update. Since it is Wednesday night, that can only mean one thing, Tractor Club Update!!!! The day started, as far as the club is concerned, over my lunch break. I met with a couple of very nice gentleman that were laying out the plans to give us a warm place to work this winter. The ball has been set into motion as they will be making some calls to their friends and seeing what it will take to get spray foam insulation up as well as a lower ceiling put in. I am overwhelmed by their generosity to say the least. Tonight the heaters were working as we had a great night to work with temps in the mid 50's during the day. Sanding commenced and the kids became encouraged as I mentioned that I will be getting some parts sandblasted to help speed up the process. We spent about half of our time sanding and the other half of time working on a teachable lesson. We hauled in a 12 h.p. Kohler that has a broken rod. We started taking this motor apart and stopped periodically to explain how each part worked and was able to produce the power needed to actually make the tractor work. It was just as rewarding for us as it was them. I am hopeful that they were all able to walk away with a little more knowledge on how a gasoline powered engine works. Here is a photo of the kids around the engine as they were removing the head bolts. And of course we can not leave out these professional sanding machines! Earlier this week I received a very nice surprise. A gentleman named Ron Greco, not sure if he is a member here or not, has been following our progress on the Wheel Horse Junkies Facebook page. He informed me that he has been very impressed with the work these kids are putting forth and has purchased a t-shirt for each kid from T&H Creations. The shirts should be arriving within the next week and will be a very nice and generous Christmas gift for these kids. They have no idea of what is being done, but will be so excited when they receive them. I can't wait to see their faces! Thank you Ron......very, very cool! This has been an amazing journey and I want to thank all of you for being such a huge part of helping shape these kids lives! Merry Christmas to all of you!

The secret to welding cast iron is to use a high nickel content rod and to preheat the pieces and then cool slowly after welding to normalize the stresses in the metal, put the pieces in or on the woodstove and get them hot, weld them and then throw them back into the stove and leave them until the fire burns out before trying to use them. if you don't have a wood stove just build a nice hot charcoal fire and use that for the heat process.

all the 60s wheel horses had clutch/brake on the one pedal. should be a matter of just finding the right parts to convert......

Errr.. Oops is the polite way of putting it I guess! Had a bit of a shuffle round in the shack today, the GT and 6X6 changed positions so I could park the 6X6 somewhere nice and light to work out how to do the twin drive belt conversion.. It was while parking the 6X6 in place that I noticed the front left wheel turned almost a 3rd of a rotation before the other two wheels that side started to turn! My first though was the drive chains that run between the wheels had stretched... Er... No!!! So that's a chewed up key-way in the end of the axle and a very broken taper-lock bush!! As this is not the first time I have had problems with these taper-lock bushes, I guess I should be lookin at ways of solving this problem, but the problem is.... Winter... The best way to fix this would be to start on the "no outriggers" conversion (I've still not 100% confirmed it can be done, but I'm sure it can) and re-do the axles as they would have to be a lot shorter.. Trouble is this would mean the 'ol girl would be in bits through winter and I wouldn't be able to use her in the snow.... The other way of keeping her mobile would be a bit of a bodge... Find some much stronger taper-lock bushes and for the time being weld the key into the key-way to stop it moving!! As to which way to go, I don't know! I don't like the idea of a bodge but it would be nice to get some hours in driving in the snow this winter!

had the dash apart so we could scan the decal areas. while apart i pulled the circuit board for the warning lights at the molex connector. the connector half in the board end had definitely seen better days, one corner was burnt out and two wire terminals had corroded so bad they broke away from the block. so we needed to replace the block and put new terminals on at least two wires. i decided to re-terminal all the wires so we shouldn't have any issues down the road. (i did this at work in my lunch break, so thats why you see a powder hopper in the first pic.....) while getting the engine in running condition i knew both molex connectors were going to need some work so i purchased this kit. i could have just got a couple 9 pin molex connectors and terminals, but decided to get this as it has way more different pin count male and female blocks and terminals and wasn't really much more than just 2 or 3 9 pins and a few terminals. I'm sure they will get used for something. you need to have a special crimper for these terminals, which i picked up when making a new harness for the c160 here > you will also need some side cutters, insulation strippers, plus the 9 terminal molex block to match the one you are replacing and 9 terminals (those came in the kit). a tool for removing the terminals from the block would be handy here as well, but i left mine at home and so i had to butcher the old burnt block as i cut the wires to keep them at the most length. the tool is definitely the easier way..... heres a pic of the tool from my c160 wiring thread...... need to get the block in the same position as the one you are replacing, notice some of the holes are 'keyed' with flats, not every one is round. i rotated the blocks so they are both the same and marked the same position on both blocks. i knew the green went in the corner terminal (which i now have marked) so that was the first wire position i started with. one by one each wire is cut, position it came from is noted and then a new terminal is crimped on and it gets inserted in the corresponding position in the new block. i left the wires as long as possible, cutting right at the old terminal, i already knew i had a little wire length to play with, but didn't want to push my luck so i shortened them only the slightest amount.... heres how the terminals look, this is the 'male' side we are working on....... almost done..... one terminal gets two wires, so we need to make sure both wires get pushed in far enough to get a good connection, tight fit, but once its crimped almost the same size as one wire. all wires crimped with terminals and in the block in their right positions ( I hope so.....) heres what the boards look like, row of LEDs down one side are your warning lights........

Today I used the 518xi with the 2" hitch to move my three wheeled Cub Cadet. The new owner is picking it up next weekend (I hope.) He took the missing wheel this past summer to repair a flat but hasn't come back since! I thought it justified getting a HF Pickup Crane. The crane is jury-rigged for now but shows the versatility of the hitch. Go Bears!

i bought the liquid last night. added some to a 5 gallon gas container of ethanol free premium, (using the gas along with stabil has helped avoid problems for all my other tractors). replaced the soft gas line, cleaned out the tank and replaced the inline filter. ran it for probably half an hour, its a little better, can now get it to run in the lower rpms now, still hunts. i will get some more hours on it, but in the mean time will be on the lookout for a carb kit. im not yet convinced its finicky running can be fixed without going through the carb....... thanks for the help and comments guys.......

Honestly, as long as you disassemble the tractor right, do proper metal prep (sandblast/strip etc) and do basic repairs such as welding cracks and fixing dents, use a decent quality paint (doesn't have to be base coat clear), use a HVLP gun, not a brush, use close colors, correct decals and placement and don't bling it up in chrome and dumb decals, you can't go wrong! This isn't like building a hot rod car. If you want to modify it, go ahead, otherwise inspect the originality as you disassemble it noting painted parts, bolts etc and you're fine. It will look sharp. Manuals weren't always accurate for reference pictures. They were usually prototypes on the cover so there were differences. Take for example the RJ58 manual and the 1961 manual. Those tractors are different from production in several aspects. Mainly, HAVE FUN DOING IT! Shoot for reliability before you consider looks. See plenty of beautiful paint jobs these days on tractors with leaky, whining and grinding transmissions and smokey engines with half a turn of steering play. Just my input here. We all have opinions.

Here's where my head is at...... People need to quit over-thinking these tractors and have fun with them.

It is refreshing to hear people say Merry Christmas instead of happy holidays! My entire staff here at the shop have been wishing people a Merry Christmas all season long and we have not heard one complaint. In fact most people say how nice it is that we all still say Merry Christmas. From the staff of MotorCity Harley-Davidson to all of my friends on Redsquare MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!