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Well time has not been on my side here lately but I was lucky enough to sneak away for a little bit tonight. My wife doesn't want a tractor but since everyone else in the family has their own I thought it would be fitting. She picked out her favorite color so she can have a custom Lawn Ranger like our daughter. I am sure this will be another rewarding build!

here is a photo of the model t, even has a pickup back that can be changed out. there are 4 oil lamps that might look good on an rj. i thought you were refering to the tri-plex when i mentioned the weight.

, Made a new weight bracket for the front of the 417-8 to attach to the attach-a-matic bracket to see if I could keep the front end on the ground plowing the garden this year. Happy to say it worked great. Had to give it a bath so I thought I'd take some pics & see if I could still remember how to post them. Had some trouble but Tyson refreshed my memory. Thanks Tyson

Well, thanks to a couple of RS members hear who were watching out for me (Wheel-N-It), and (whc160) I'll be heading out Thursday to pick up a C-160 8 speed with attachments! Now hear is the part where some of you guys will start booooooing. It was factory equipped with an OH160 16hp Tecumseh. I've been wanting a C-160 for a very long time, and I thought all of them were equipped with the K341 Thumper, but I was mistaken. It figures, that the only C-160 for sale in Texas would have a Tecky! I'm still very happy, especially with all the attachments, mowing deck, WH tiller, WH dump cart, and harrow, which I don't believe to be original. I'm excited! Matt

Paint the wheels green and have JD in reverse! Take it to a JD show and watch everyone freak out!

Just make sure there isn't any green on it.

This Speedex FG was added to my collection today its from the Pond Bros days

TECKY POWER!!!!! 1972 TORO SNO-PUP 2 cycle Tecky!! Ya know you want one Craig!!

Bob, I use a slide hammer. I also have a 1/2" carriage bolt @ 6" long that I have ground part of the head off so it will fit under the bearing and I use that to pry the bearing up a little if I can't get the slide hammer jaws under it. I got that idea from Steve. Works well for me.

van, im liking the 416 even with all its little quirks. all the safety switches and electrical are driving me nuts. nothing that a good wiring makeover wont take care of though. i guess i cant get away from onans either, been messing with a few engines the last 6-8 months and while i appreciate all the engineering built into them, i like the simplicity of the kohlers and especially the cheaper parts. always liked the looks of these tractors, but weren't coming across any when it was buying time and then just recently this one came up. i think this one will be a keeper, its going to get a few mods and some work done on it, but first i need to sort out all the adjustment and electrical issues. still undecided if it will get a teardown and shine up though. pulled the deck after finally prying my wife off it and hooked up one of the blades i have. all ready to push a bit of snow now....... got a set of chains with it as well so if needed i will put them on too.....

wow matt, congrats, finally got yourself a 160. looks like it will clean up ok and also looks to be in nice condition under all that barn frosting....... of course we are going to need a full dedicated thread once you get it and start cleaning it up. looks like keeping it original is the way to go....... is it going to be a restore or keep it how it is?

There is really nothing wrong with Tecumseh's...excellent engines. It is the carbs that can be a little touchy at times,

Cute as a bug! I'd like to have it with a vacuum attachment and sweeper attachment to clean the floors in my house

videos from yesterday.......... early on...... the showdown ( if you think its between Kent and Jeanine, you would be wrong)...... oops......

Most of the time when I am replacing bearings I am not concerned about removal damage. However, I am parting two B-80 4-speed transmissions that each have two excellent condition #1533 bearings. So my question is, how do you remove them without damaging them? With these bearings being declared NLA (no longer available), I figure it might be nice to have a couple on hand.

Growing up dad always had a 196x's Wheel Horse he'd use to drag things around the property. I always thought that thing was bada**. Now I have a place of my own and got sucked into a deal, sight unseen, on craigslist and I'm hoping I have made the right decision. I am paying $325 for 2 mowers. The seller said the one that runs is the one that fits the snow plow but I have no idea which one that would be either. Hopefully this will end up being a fun winter project to take up some recently cleaned space in the garage. Appreciate any advice or guesses on what years these are. All feedback appreciated. Glad to join the forum. Jay

I know they are not as in demand. just could not pass up. has bad deck. but tractor has no other rust or paint chips came with full tank of gas and.new battery. runs like a champ. guy said would not drive. belt guide was loose and belt slipped off. guy tried to sell me a dynamark for 180 just cause he put a new carb on it also. i walked away from that. but this 8-25 is to to small for.me. im sure witj a.fresh.deck someone will need it for a.small.yard. hopefully a quick flip. pictures enclosed

I brought my single stage blower into the barn to check it out and paint the chute today. I found all the bearings needed attention and the drive sprocket was hours from losing all it's teeth, so I disassembled it and made my parts list. After looking on parts tree and evil bay, I was somewhat sick as the parts total was $360.41. I found the big bearing store on google and my total with shipping was $65. The flange bearings will be a bit smaller and need new holes drilled, but I can do that having saved $65 per bearing!

I'm proud to say not too many have been added here. A 1054 and a 310-8 is probably about it in the last 2 years or so. I'm down to a fairly reasonable 11 these days!

And I acquired all of this from my local Toro (used to be Wheel Horse) dealer this past spring; with the exception of the "Clevis hitch" which I didn't need for my tiller -- Don't know if all of these are available from Toro; some were new old stock that hadn't been sold by the dealer

Nice looking machine Martin! So, how many of your :wh:'s has Jeanine claimed now? Matt

Assuming your plow is a sleeve hitch implement (and not a 3pt. hitch implement), then you will need the Wheel Horse Clevis hitch assembly. I think if you do a search of the forum you will find some pictures of a clevis hitch. You should probably check out the toro site too and search for clevis in the parts section - you will find a diagram of the parts needed. If you're lucky, you can pick up an entire assembly from ebay (thats how I got mine). You will also need to route a cable from the lift mechanism under the center of the tractor to the 'rock shaft' that is part of the clevis assembly. May sound difficult but its not - hardest part will be getting all the parts unless you can find a complete clevis package. If you have 3pt. implements then you are out of luck unless you build a custom 3pt. hitch. PS - nice tractor!

I think you're gonna need a red seat for this one too, Martin.... Looks like ownership has been established.

Matt, I know what you mean. everytime i get another one, i imagine how it would look all redone. my latest one (416H) im still at that stage where one day i want to take the plunge again and the next i want to leave it alone. my c160 though, is the one i really like to get out once in a while and just drive it around. i really want to keep this one all original, rusty paint and all. theres a few things mechanically that really need to get taken care of, but i like it just the way it is. the metal is just rust pitted enough that i know it won't be looking right if i redo it in powder coat. i need to pick the ones which are better (easier) to get the metal smooth enough to paint direct to metal. just like your food, no fillers for the powdercoated ones anymore........

This is how I did it and they came out nice- two of these 4" Task force vice grips - one side of the case though I did need to grind the bottom of the vise grip jaws to get fully under the bearing - after I got a " light " clamp on the bearing I tapped it out from the other side with a 1" iron pipe and a dead blow hammer .

My HH120 Techy has been mowin and blowin for 15 years without a hic-cup. Looks like a great worker.

Well done Matt and good of the Guys to keep a lookout for you , Look's like it will scrub up well................. not sure what's going on with the Block attached to the Clutch Pedal ...Kiddie Ride maybe?. I'm sure that Techy will always behave and work hard at your command. Look forward to seeing it and the other bits shining bright in the Texas Sunshine.

Looks like a great addition to your collection matt! Those solid state techies can be great runners...the smaller ones are the ones that most people have troubles with. I had a charger 10 that ran sweet...ended up selling it, but it always fired right up!

not beer, would take to long. couple of hagging flasks. note the bug eyes in the garage. our 1917 modle t. also a locke mower tri-plex if anyone wants it. (the mower)

Nice pictures...gotta love the stone fence. P.S. there is a beer behind every tree.

I like it, it would be sold to me if you were closer. I can cut my lawn with a pair of scissors...that would be cool to have.

Ok, I'll just use a little sealer in there and let it dry while I wait for the differential from Bob. I double checked the reverse idler gear, the bevel is indeed facing up. Thanks! -Dan

Ah yes pictures. Took several when I first got it home. Came with quite a few components I have yet to go through.

Yup, they install a plug in that hole to keep dirt out and oil in. You could try popping that plug out. I can't remember how I did mine for sure, but I think I ended up popping that plug out. Edit: Just remembered, I used an E-Z-Out to grab that little plug and twist it out. It's really just a mini cold-plug.

Having a hard time following the games this year due to being so busy.....But I do know that the number of BEARs fans are increasing in Minnesota... I'm just glad my Bears shirts don't fit them...

Uh-oh. I believe I had the splined shaft in upside down. I just pulled it out along with the fork, and one of the balls popped out. I found it, but after watching your video so I know how to re-install the balls/spring, I have a problem. There appears to me some metal piece inside the little hole where you inserted the allen key to compress everything. What am I missing here? Thanks! -Dan

DONE IT,Job's a good 'un. Thanks chaps

Nelson mufflers last a long time and are OEM in some models. What tractor are you working with?

Really, other than the axles and pinions, everything looked great inside! Here's a couple shots after cleaning:

From what you have posted the fuel level float needs adjusting, especially turning on hills. The M12 has restrictions on hills 15 degrees with carb forward if you have oil sentry. Seafoam is good but needs time to reduce carbon. Better to put in gas tank about 3 oz to full tank and clean as you use the tractor. Seafoam will release lots of gunk at one time and this gunk causes further problems as described. Take an afternoon and pull gas line, gas filter, carb, .PULL THE BOWL OFF THE CARB, LOOK FOR ANYTHING plugging up the needle valve, clean everything. Set idle and lean/richness screws to 1-1/2 and 2-1/2 turns in, let engine warm then fine tune, a RPM meter should be used. Set idle and high speed listen for lean and rich setting and find medium. When set load up engine and operate at all settings a thermal IR tester helps to see temperatures from head to sump area. Type of oil and quality makes a difference, experience has lead me to Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic. Carbon deposits are history. Check dipstick and conduit for gunk, pull spark plug look for carbon deposits. You can still do a compression test see what PSIG you get, but a leak down is simple and more accurate if your engine has compression release. Verify with a torque wrench the head bolts are snug and equal, check the book for setting, 30 FT/LBS ENGINE NEEDS compression, gas, air and spark at the correct time, just one component lacking will upset operation. Air filter, gas filter, gasoline and ratio of air to fuel are critical. Take your time, be methodical and tighten things evenly.

HAPPY WIFE HAPPY LIFE

My son has been serching for a wheel horse and when he seen this in a scrap pile ready to be crushed he had to have it, so 50 bucks later and having to get a loader to remove it from the pile here it is back in a barn and soon to be a winter resto project. I know shes rough but everything is there and under the dirt grime and rust its not in to bad of shape.

What's up? Well I guess you can say I'm going with these teams this week. The picks are Nebraska,it looks like Martinez is coming back, Michigan State, Ohio State and it doesn't matter on the Coulter thing with or without Coulter I'll take the Hawkeyes!!!! Psych, thought I was going to didn't you. Oh well As always, Go Hawkeyes!!!

Looks like a cool project Scott. Could name it the Momma Ranger...

You could always just walk into a stove selling place up your way and ask the guys there. I'd be certain to think they'd sell you something on top of giving advice.

It's a good thing Horses love apples !!!

Its on You tube but I cant figure out how to post the link, A little help?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqFk5UTdlu4&feature=youtu.be

546Cowboy's comment is great! If some of the kids who want to be involved don't have aptitude in certain areas such as turning a wrench, maybe they are better at writing, or 'rithmetic ... sort of like the way a REAL business operates. Some of the workers solder resistors, some put the frammises together, some count beans... All God's children got a place in the choir, some sing low, some sing higher, and some just clap their hands!