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Todays score! Got a late 55 rj35 for 60 bucks and a k91 for 40. The k91 has the correct throttle cables for a 35 which is the main reason I bought it. Has some nice tins too. The 35 was the best score though! It just needs a motor, belt guard, steering wheel and engine pulley. The gas tank looks pretty decent too! The drive system is rigged...I will have to tear into it today. They have a bolt going through the hub so there probably are not pauls but it does still work. The veri drive seems to be in good shape though. The wheels and tires look great too. Hope to have it going soon. Don't think i'm going to paint it.

There was an auction near my inlaw's place where a family was selling all of their farm equipment. I talked with the owner, and he said he had purchased it from the 1st owner and that the mower has spent it's whole life locally and was always serviced at the place where it was originally sold. The 42" deck looks awesome. He gave me the manual and reciepts going back to 1999. I am not sure what year it is, anyone know? The model number is: 73400 Serial number 5902150 M14s Serial number: Spec:601559 Serial number: 2515906393 Not sure what I am going to do with it yet. Paid $550 + 10% auction fee.

Been waiting all day for my call back on this second owner tractor. Chris said he got this little 603 from the original owner years ago. Said all of his kids have grown up on it, his oldest daughter used to sleep in his arms while he was mowing with it. Said all his years living in this area he's never seen anyone with the Wheelhorse banner emblazened across the back window of their truck. You know I had to tell him about the forum and the Biglersville show too. Pretty sure he was having sellers remorse there at the end...whew! I think I got outta there just in time. LOL.

Craig: Keep the hot water heater, you were in the military, the bed is way over rated..

If you haven't already done so, don't forget to drain the transmission oil before attempting to open her up.

Bob was right, latest carb came out of the bath a little darker than the first one... was in the bath for a day and a half this time...still cleaned up much better than before though. Got another K91 going today...removed the flywheel, visually inspected the coil, condenser, both looked fine. Removed the points cover...ahhh...there's the problem, full of white, crusty corrosion. Got 'em cleaned up, and adjusted...mounted up the freshly cleaned carb, fired off on the second pull... keep this up, and I'm gonna have to piece together another round hood soon.

Actually, that paint dries to the touch very fast...no need to wait three hours to handle it...more like twenty minutes. The last one I did...I rushed right through the painting process, one light coat, waited about five minutes... then two more heavy coats back to back. I then let it dry overnight before doing the heat curing, and cool down cycles. I think I did at least three cycles of heating it up to operating temps, and cooling back down mounted on the tractor. Followed the directions on the can, not to the letter though. I think you'll find it's an easy product to work with really. Painted this one a few months ago...holding up fine so far.

The toughest task when pulling apart a trans. seems to be removing the hubs that your rear wheels bolt onto. Whatever you do, don't try to hammer them off; either you will bust them or the lock ring retainer on the inside will break, both are bad things! At the rear of your trans. you will have a 3/4" pin that goes through the two halves of the trans. and attaches your trailer hitch and/or slot hitch, remove the lock rings and drive it out with a punch ( this you can hit!) Once you have watched the vidios anr read a few postings on this site you should have no problem doing the job. Let us know how you are doing.

Really profound this time of year!-I still have these feelings-Thanks-Al http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AlXDo5WhQXI

Hi guys... The 702 is starting to look even better. Last week I put on a set of correct decals on, got rid of the 65 style decals. And today I put on some new tri ribs and some nice used 6-12 lugs. The wheels were also base/clear coated and look really nice! In the last week I have gotten some hl5 lights in deals. There are 3 pretty decent lights and one broken one. I am hoping to find some brackets for it or buy some reproduction brackets. I have been hoping to put a set of hl5 lights on this since I got it and I got these lights for next to nothing. Well anyways...here are some pictures of it.

That TORO dealer has no clue on how to do a 5025 transmission. Don't you let him touch it!!! They come apart easy and go back together easier. Time for us to ask you some questions. Tools...got a 9/16 box end wrench and an assortment of sockets and a ratchet? Do you have a razor knife? Do you have a scraper? Do you have some punches and a ball peen hammer? How about some hand cleaner and some rags or paper towels? Sorry...I got to ask this...how old are you? Just curious. If you decide to tackle this, and I think you should, we all will help walk you through the process. Check out these threads and watch the videos... This thread show tons of pictures and is the same transmission that you have.

It's a keeper for now....after sorting out a few issues. With the big steering wheel it feels like an old Mack truck. I just need a Bull dog on the hood.

The 4 hp K91 shouldn't have an electric starter. What tractor is it out of or what tractor do you plan on installing it? Have you pulled the spark plug and tried turning it over? Here's the Kohler service manual that might be helpful: http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

So for years I have contemplating about digging a small root cellar for storing my potatoes. You see, I always lose a lot of my potatoes because my storage in my basement is too warm due to the furnace. So this weekend, I started digging a hole near the raised beds. I ended up with a 3 foot deep by 2 foot wide hole. Now this does not sound like a hard task unless you have stuck a spade in our Shaker Hill soil! Rocks, gravel and even more rocks after two hours with a pick axe and spade I finally came up with this; I took one of my 6 foot long pry bars and 10 pound sledge hammer and made some even deeper "Vent" holes in the bottom of the hole to allow more cool air into the area. When I was done pounding these holes, I added some landscape rock in the bottom of the hole to help with any possible drainage; I then went to the local Ace Hardware store and bought a 31 gallon galvanized metal garbage can for $25. I wanted to buy some screen from a screen door from them but he gave me a bunch of remants for free from a recent job they did! I took the can and screen home and drilled a bunch of holes in the bottom of the can. I drilled them from the inside instead of flipping it over so the metal shards would not damage any potatoes. These holes will allow the cool air from the earth into the can; I then flipped over the can and used the bottom as a guide to cut the screen. I cut two circles and placed them both in the bottom of the can. This should keep any bugs from entering; I then placed the can into the hole and back filled around the edges so the dirt was just a few inches away from the can cover; I then took some old leftover 2x10 pressure treated boards and made a 3x3 box that will cover the can opening. This space will also be fitted with a piece of rigid insulation to help keep the frost away from the top of the can; I did not have any pressure treated plywood on hand, so I will make a hinged cover for the box with a handle next weekend. This box will be mounded with dirt all the way around it and will also have some straw or hay covering it through out the winter. Hopefully this Trash Can root cellar will help keep my potatoes for a long time! I will let you know.

I can't talk real good, yet. So my PaPaw is doing this. Ya'll know him as Gunny. He got me a WH, it's a 1056 and needs some work. Mom won't let me ride yet, but she said when I am a little older, I could ride with PaPaw. Don't tell Mom, but PaPaw already let me sit on some of his WH's. I don't really like it when he starts them up, but I will get used to it. My Dad has a C100, and my Great GrandDad has a bunch of WH's too. UhOh, we hear Mom coming, we got to go. She keeps talking about a nap or something..... Maci

Nice clean tractor Craig! Clean it up and change the seat and you are good to go.

So...something's gotta go. No worries Mike...I'll make room. Hot water heaters are way over rated anyway.

Nice looking tractor, there was one listed on our local CL a few weeks ago, but I never have luck with Tecumseh.

Park it in the bedroom! Or are you sleeping in the truck with it?

OK, which barrel are you in? See now I wish I lived closer. We'd have a mini tractor tag team!

Hana OK I will! Thanks guys.

No, new bearings will not take care of in and out...just up and down and side to side. In and out play to about 1/8" or a little more is normal...you will see why when you take it apart. Just relax for a bit, watch the sun go down and call me tomorrow. Talk with your horse, give it a carrot and a lump of sugar...this is out patient surgery. It will be OK.

Jake, aren't you supposed to be picking berries or getting ready for school??? :) Nice find my friend.

The type of primer depends on what paint you use. It's always best to use, under red (or any light color for that matter), a light colored primer from the same manufacturer and the same line of paint. The chemical properties (EG, the solvent base of both primer and top-coat) must match or you could cause yourself grief when you spray the top coat. Also, primer and paint are both just icing on the cake. The preparation work to the metal surface is key to any good paint job, and final 400 grit sanding preparation of the primed surfaces is just as important. Think "clean, clean, clean) If what's under the paint looks like crap, the whole job will look like crap. MHO

I have a Vinyl graphic cutting plotter at my shop I will make WH logos and put them on. What a stellar Idea that is.

The 702 has always been one of my favorite tractors. Yours looks great. you should be very proud of yours. Thanks for sharing the pics.

HEY! THERE'S A PARADE COMING! I'll be represent~en....of course. http://montgomeryday.com/ http://www.newyorkfairsandfestivals.com/394496-general-montgomery-day-montgomery-new-york-september-2013.htm

That is a good looking machine Jake. Love the tri-ribs and AG's. Looks like you have plenty of space there to stretch its legs.

For what it's worth I'll add my .02 on installing seals - I found over the years, this overall easy procedure to be very tricky - one little missed burr - going over the key slot etc and your seal will nick and leak - I've installed some 2 -3 times before I got it .... My personal seal install procedure : 1) Clean all burrs off axle or shaft 2) Tape key-way slot - ( key-ways will cut/nick seals ) I use a small piece of electric tape 3) I then wrap shaft with a small amount of plastic wrap from the kitchen being careful not to wrap where the seal seats ( getting the wrap out from under the seal seated is not fun ) - this is my insurance in case I missed a bur . 4) I use 3 in 1 oil to wet the outside of plastic wrap 5) Same 3 in 1 oil on seal itself where it meets axle/shaft 6) Gently and evenly push seal on shaft to case- larger seals I gently seat with the appropriate size black iron pipe ( nipple ) with end cap on tapping end and gently ( very important to drive seal in level and even ) tap seal in with my 8-10 oz ball pien hammer Over the years I've taken seals to lowe's and matched them up with the appropriate size pipe nipple for driving, think I have 5 or 6 pieces in the tool box, some smaller ones ( seals ) couldn't find a nipple that would work - these were installed with the widest punch in my box going around the seal and slowly/gently tapping it in in until it seats . For whatever reason, maybe it's just luck - I find the 3 in 1 oil best for installing seals - knock on wood I haven't had a leaker since I started using it . Hope this helps - I never drive seals " dry " '

It doesn't look quite as pretty today...but this is what it looked like when it was rattle canned in 2007.

Yup, those are the Kenda's mounted up front in the pics above. I'll get a pic later of them with the hood on. I think for new tires they look pretty good. I'm going to get a set of Bridgestone Farm Service Diamond Tread Turfs for the rear (take a look at the cover of your final edition). I've also have a set of AG's that I got with the machine that I'm going to mount on an extra set of wheels I just cleaned up and painted. So I should have the right shoes for any occasion.

Its a keeper, FOR NOW. That could mean it MIGHT be for sale any day now......

Ok, as requested...

The Woodruff Key should be a snug fit, it should just fit it -- any 'slop' or looseness would make it a lot weaker. The Woodruff Key is inserted so it is straight-level in and above the shaft, and the hub is gently pushed or tapped in, the rear hub is positioned and normally pushed in to even with the end of the axle shaft. The Key is about 1/8th inch above the axle shaft when on, and into the hub about that same 1/8th inch (drawing above does not show this). Good Luck, it should be a very easy task installing it, (with the correct Key); and, Welcome to Red Square.

You can try adjusting the Trunion attached to the forward end of the lever rod (Pivot point) where it attaches to the Bellcrank above the PTO. I think you back it off the threads try one turn and see if it stays engaged. If not try another until it remains engaged.

A pick and maybe a pair of needlenose pliers. If you do a search for the words axle seal replacement you'll get several topics that might help you out on this... and your next question that you haven't asked yet...about how to seat the new ones.

I love my C-160 and $350 is awesome ........ the lug tires alone are probably $100 - $150 each, and with the weights and blade WOW... .. super buy! The brakes shouldn't be too costly. Also, I like the idea of not touching anything cosmetically..... C-160's are more like draught "horses" not show horses! (in my opinon) Steve (aka Dresden Guy)

51Chevy, yes they are new. They are Kenda Loadstar 4.80-8 LRB 4 Ply Bias Trailer Tires. Found them online at trailertiresandwheels.com for $16 a piece. Of all the different new tires I've seen in this size, the sidewall ribs on these seemed the most pleasing to me. http://www.trailertiresandwheels.com/product/4.80X8-load-range-b-4-ply-kenda-loadstar-bias-trailer-tire

I feel like a black sheep with my 1982 red hood . This is a unrestored 1982 SK486 with 1300 hours I bought new. I use it about 20-25 hours in the fall to clean up leaves. I use and old 42" deck for my vacuum system. I mow with a 99 314-8 Bowtie in Ohio

Here's my C195 Brian

Kelly I have done quite a few. Very easy but on an assembled engine need to be carefull with shavings. besides plugging hole with a paper towel i keep taking tap out and vacuuming shavings often. Kind of important to go in as deep as possible since hole in engine is a bit oversize for 1/2"tap. Going in deeper allows you to have higher percentage of thread on high part of taper so there is less chance of stripping threads when tightening nipple. On an engine without the valve this is really easy since you can see tap bottoming out through port. Of course important to go in perpendicular to opening. Here are some photos of a K90 I just did.

A song you've never heard them sing even if you're a fan, must see! one of a kind! I believe it was the only time they performed this one

George Thorogood- Bad To The Bone http://youtu.be/IyhJ69mD7xI I played this at the hospital the day my first son Jimmy was born. Matt :flags-texas:

now this is country music. this crap they are coming out with today is just that...crap http://youtu.be/u2V4UUjYBsA

The only and I repeat only country I will listen too is Johnny Cash and maybe a little David Allen Coe or Charlie Daniels. As Hank Williams III says in "Dic in Dixie" "pop country really sucks" But mostly it is Classic Rock, Zeppelin, Floyd.... I also listen to metal like, Iron Maiden, Pantera...

This a rattle can job, with very little prep work, a scuff and shoot.

Hi thanks for your your advice . This is the engine in question It looks to be in quite good condition but that doesnt say that there isnt a problem. why was the guy selling it i should ask myself. I bought this off that auction site and the guy says it was 100% a good runner i payed about $100 but about