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3 YEARS AGO I PICKED UP A RAIDER 10 MUTT FROM E-BAY, WELL HE KEPT MY NAME & PHONE # & CALLED ME A WEEK AGO, HIS FATHER HAS TO MOVE & HAD A C-160 AUTO HE WANTED TO SELL. SO I GO OVER THERE AND BOUGHT EVERYTHING WHEELHORSE HE HAD!THERE IS A C160 AUTOMATIC ROLLER WITH PLOW BRACKET,1 BRAND NEW CARLISLE 8 IN TIRE, THE OTHER ONE IS GOOD, 3 SETS OF PUSH PULL CABLES,SET OF 850 REAR TIRES,4 SETS OF FRONT SPINDLES WITH NO WEAR, ANOTHER PLOW BRACKET 3 PTO CLUTCHES, 3 K SERIES KOHLERS 2 10 HP & 1 16 HP THE THROTLE SHAFTS HAVE MINIUM PLAY EATON 11 OF A JD. ,SHEETMETAL & A NICE 42 SIDE DISCHARGE DECK . I GAVE $ 305.00 DOLLARS DON'T THINK I DID TOO BAD ! Jay In NC.

I have never replied to a topic before , but i can't resist on this one...here is my two cents. You are 17 and you seem to have very good knowledge of your intended business . You show good common sense by seeking advice from others...so you are already miles ahead of the pack. If your desire is to be in business , you will never be happy doing anything else. You don' need to know all of the details...things work themselves out ...use common sense. A couple years of business school can't hurt ...you have to decide for yourself. In this day and age , you will have to think outside the box . The small engine shops around here are only focused on the products they sell . They won't help you unless the part is in their parts book. What if someone came along and offered a service to not only to repair any machine , but also improve the weak spots. What if someone offered to fit different brand attachments to a brand that didn't offer that attachment. Think outside the box...let the lawyers and accountants handle the liability and financial details. Business is a lifestyle , not a job...Follow your heart. Before i came along ,. no one in my family was in business . I remember, when i was 7 or 8 yrs old , asking my mother where my father went every day. She said he went to work for a man that had lots of trucks. I asked why would my father do that ...why didn't he have lots of trucks. She said that was impossible...only engineers and really smart people can do that. I told her that i would never work for someone...she said i had to or i would end up as a bum. Sooo , at 9 yrs old , i got a big paper route. At 13 yrs old my father helped me buy a brand new 1973 Wheel Horse 10 hp 8 speed and with my paper route money i started buying attachments. Before long i was doing landscape jobs for the local people...i had 12 attachments and a trailer that my father used to take me to the jobs. At 16 , i took an accredited 2 year landscape course to get a better understanding of the business (a home study course , all done by mail , before computers were invented) . Then i got my drivers licence got a bigger motor route. My schedule was get up at 3 am, do the route, get home by 7 am , eat breakfast , get to school by 8 , get out of school by 2 pm , go to one of my landscape jobs and work till dark , go home , do paper work till 9......7 days a week. It took 6 months to burn out . Something had to give , so i quit the paper route job and relied on the landscape work... first lesson learned...priorities. At 17 yrs old i graduated high school in January (accelerated graduation program) . bought a used case 580 backhoe , f 600 dump truck and trailer. My uncles , cousins and even my mom kept asking when i would snap out of this fantasy and get a real job. I had no mentors , no college education lots of advice and criticism on how i would fail. One day i took my uncle to a job i had just finished and showed him the check for the balance of the job. It was about one quarter of his yearly salary , but it only took me two weeks to earn it ... the criticism stopped. By age 26 , i had many machines , employees etc. The business has seen hard times more than once. By thinking outside the box , we are now an erosion control company . I followed my heart...no regrets...life is good!

3 guys from Fordsville Kentucky were at our County Fair showing their driving skills. The guy in the grey car called the Tin Man is 75 years old!

I've had my 1975 D-180 for some 25+ years and other than necessary maintenance (oil change, etc) I have badly overlooked its appearance - poor thing! And this bad boy thing is such a beast, I tend to somewhat abuse it too. It continually amazes me as to just what it can do and using it that way doesnt help its appearance. I have the 48" mower deck, a Brinley turning plow, a 4' rear dirt blade, a set of cultivators and obviously the 3 point hitch, so I have the accessories to work it even more. I had recently finished a major rebuild of a 1054 and it turned out so well that on looking at my faithful 180 sitting all ugly and forlorn, I just had to do something about it! Mostly just paint (like the 1054, used Rustoleums "sunrise red") not doing a major tear down, just some sheet metal. Fenders and hood had some dings so easier to work out off the tractor, removed the air shrouds off engine (needed to check fins anyway), grille, seat, tank, steering wheel/dash and a few other small things. I did sand blast or disk sanded most everything in order to get rid of that horrible blue and yellow - the blue was mostly gone anyway. Course while I was into it I corrected some neglected wiring, rebuilt carb (boy, did that make a difference!) replace a bent up steering wheel, etc, and of course the cream on the cake - new decals from Terry! They sure make a paint job POP! So, I know some will want to know about the remoted air cleaner... I dont use the mower deck anymore, but back when I did I had a pretty bad problem with the air filter clogging up very quickly when it was in the factory position (2-3 filters a season) so I got busy one day and cobbled up a remote filter -- and that completely solved that problem, I can go a long time now with out filter change. Oddly enough the flywheel shroud doesnt get a hint of chaff. The seat is from a Delta Airlines belt loader - I worked for them 35 years, the rear tires are the - getting more and more scarce - 15"ers in a "skid steer" version, 27-8.5x15 6ply

I picked up a nice little atlas 618 lathe last night, it looks to be in pretty good shape. My son in law came over to help me unload it, I think he's more excited to get it than I am.

Sorry Bro' , Seeing all that good stuff got me a little overenthusiastic!!!

Hey buddy, no cutting to the front of the line ​

Nice score Bro'!!! I want to be your first Customer

Well I'm 99.9% sure this will be at the MI WH show, I had it out driving it today, did some temp wiring on it, installed a foot control for the trans, have all the sheet metal back on it, installed a lift pump to move fuel from the back of the tractor to the engine, mounted a temp fuel tank, bought a ATV batt. and got it mounted, built new batt cables, went over all the nuts and bolts to be sure they were tight, had a issue with the injection pump, I'm not diesel guy but I own it, so I figured out how it works and fixed it, still need to time the injectors better but it runs pretty good, I'll deal with it later, I have a ton of other stuff to finish up before the show in 2 weeks. I'll get pics tomorrow.

Papaglide hit it. Go to customers and repair everything, whether you sold it to them or not. Do a great job at a fair price and they will buy from you next time. Sell what your customers want, paint it if they want or leave it. Be the all services kinda guy. A decent uniform, clean work vehicle with a gas air compressor on board, and a good tool bag will git it done.

Super excited about the snow thrower I have a pretty long uphill battle with the driveway. Did have a 42" Noma that my parents gave me for free when I bought my house three years ago I was mowing with it last week and all of a sudden my seat pushed me into the steering wheel, when I got off the mower and looked the frame was just snapped in half. So I have been on the internet ever since looking for a heavy duty tractor and came across this great forum. All the great stuff I heard about Wheel Horses put me on the hunt.

Yeah, everyone was safe thanks... Taken 3 days just to get back to the base and a Huge pile of wood and scrap!

First, download service and parts manuals from the Toro web site - they are free. Use the model number on the left rear fender, for example mine is a 1991 Wheel Horse 520H model 41-20OE02. Note distinctions between zeros and letter O. Also, most models have a dash after first two digits, though not usualky shown on label.The manuals detail all parts and servicing/rebuild of key components. What is not told, in removing the flywheel is what should be removed first. It is not difficult, as indicated earlier, just a method. When in doubt, take pictures and label each nut or bolt when removed. Most component are assembled with common sizes, but can be confusing if you drop everything into one pan. I recommend the magnetic bottomed bowl from the auto parts store so you don't lose any parts. Also, before removing the flywheel, the manual tells how to test the stator. If engine won't run, all you can do is test Ohms (resistance) in the wires. Unplug the two outside connectors from the voltage regulator (flat rectangular part with three flat plugs just in front of the battery and mounted in the engine cowl (black sheet metal cover)). I don't have my manual handy, but you are looking for very low resistance in the range of .2 to .4 Ohms use a reliable multimeter with fresh batteries; if you touch both multimeter leads together the reading should be zero (digital or analog doesn't matter). Anything else means your tester needs adjustment or batteries. You can also test the voltage regulator/rectifier also, though if engine won't start, the testing is limited. Testing the stator and regulator are generally related to a battery not charging, indicated by a dead battery after running or jump started. Jump starting this mower and running with a low charging/almost dead battery can cause failure of several electronic components. Namely the rectifier ($60) the RPM guage ($275), or other switches and relays related to the starting/running system. The coil next to the regulator can be tested also to ensure it is putting out correct spark voltage. I recommend downloading the Toro Demystification Guide which provides troubleshooting tips, procedures, and wiring diagrams for these complicated little "space ships." All you need from this several hundred page manual is the first 30 pages or so that are generic to most all models, the the 5-7 pages specific to your model (the manual covers a vast number of models.) I had the similar issue as you to some extent. I needed to replace the regulator and check the magnets in the flywheel. So if I was removing the flywheel, might as well put on a new stator (3 small screws and a two-wire plug going up to thd regulator). Depending on age and level of abuse of the mower, the magnets can come loose, or loose magnetism (usually from extreme over heating). Basically, the magnets are glued inside the flywheel and rotate around the stator (bunch of grape size nubs wound with wires) as the engine runs. Any magnet rotating around coiled wires creates alternating current electricity (the kind in your house). The regulator/rectifier converts it to DC, or battery type electricity to recharge the battery. The mower's electrical components (spark plugs, lights, sensors, etc all run off the battery which in turn is recharged by the "alternator," (the magnets and stator). So, after all this, if you want to take off the flywheel, go to you auto parts store and they will loan you for free a "puller." You want a generic harmonic balancer puller (for cars) and has a set up of one center bolt in line with two outside bolts. Take off the entire air cleaner assembly - the manual diagram shiws the basic screws in it; (put some clean paper towel or small cloth in the carburetor intake so nothing gets in there). Remove the two sweets from the fuel pump and gently pull it out about an inch or so from the engine cover. You will see a small hose and clamp coming out of the engine cover behind the pump. This is a vacuum hose attached to the engine and uses suction to make the pump work. Squeeze the clamp to loosen an wiggle it back from the pump about an inch. Then gently and firmly twist and pull the pump from the hose; leave the clamp where it is. The remove the seven small bolts from around the engine cover. The remove the two bolts holding the coil to the engine cover. Then loosen clamp in front holding the throttle cable and remove cable from clamp and and throttle lever. Disconnect the spring from the throttle lever. Now the engine cover should easily be pulled free. You do not need to remove the plastic chaff screen from the cover, but you may so it won't get broken. You will now see the exposed flywheel and metal chaff screen. Remove the metal chaff screen (four bolts in center and six hex or Torx screws around edges. Thread the center bolt in the puller (only on should fit and has a pointy tip on it that corresponds to the hole in the flywheel bolt. Tip: the flywheel bolt must be loosened two complete turns before using the puller tool. Also, when trying to loosen the center flywheel bolt, you may notice the flywheel will want to rotate also. You do not want to damage or nick the flywheel at all. Some are tempted to use a wrench, board, or other similar device to wedge into the flywheel fins to hold it while turning the flywheel bolt. I recommend against this. Without a specific flywheel holder tool, it is preferred to use a pneumatic impact socket driver since this imparts small impacts of torque to the bolt several times per second such that the mass of the flywheel keeps it from spinning. Same way your local shop removes your car tire without really having to brace the tire. Without such a tool, use a large 1/2 in drive socket wrench and socket on the bolt, and while someone assists by steadying the flywheel, hit the end of the wratchet handle with a dead blow hammer (a leas shot filled polymer hammer) or similar tool. Not a rubber mallet. A steel hammer will work, but there is a risk of damaging the internal socket teeth, the handle of the wrench, or chipping either tool, parts of which fly at high speed and can hit you eye. Can even inflict a small cut on the face. So either an air powered socket, or dead blow hammer to loosen the bolt. Then thread two bolts from the puller tool into the two bolt holes in the flywheel on either side of the flywheel bolt. The tool kit usually comes with several size bolts and thread types. Tighten the side bolts several turns. Then tighten by hand the center bolt until it contacts the flywheel bolt and is snug and centered. Using a wrench or socket, alternately tighten the two side puller tool bolts in 1/4 to 1/2 turn increments until the puller tool bolts are relatively tight ( only about 10 to 15 pounds pressure on the wrench). Note: the shaft onto which the flywheel is attached is slightly tapered. So with tension now on the flywheel, a couple light taps with a dead blow hammer on the fly wheel is sufficient for it to "pop" loose. The movement will only be a millimeter or so. Remove the puller tool, and the continue removing the flywheel bolt. Age and a little rust my provide resistance, so the flywheel may still need someone to hold it while tapping the wrench (or pneumatic socket) until the bolt will come out the rest if the way with moderate wrench torque. Once the bolt is out, remove the flywheel with two hands and set aside. This is a good time to inspect the magnets and clean out any debris between them. The manual describes how to test the magnetism, which should be very strong, by holding a flat tip screw driver between two fingers and brining it close to the magnets. The screw driver being pulled toward the magnets indicates acceptability. Refer to the manual. You can then remove the three small bolts on the stator, unplug from the rectifier and replace with a new one. Assembly is in reverse order and tightening the flywheel bolt will require the same impact technique.

I'd go get it asap... before he comes to his senses, and realizes he's making a mistake in selling it.

The tractor has a 36" deck with a 42" snow thrower. I appreciate everyones feedback so far I think I am going to try to pick it up tomorrow. The tractor is in great condition. The guy selling it is getting rid of it because he bought a new husquavarna for $3500. I guess he said his Husky broke down already after he used it a couple times and he was using the wheel horse the last couple mows until he got the new tractor back from the dealer.

I'll say you bought everything...another nice score Jay. Looks like just gained another parts vendor.

I have one just like that, now if I can only learn how to use it...

As to the muffler, I would not pack it. The Nelson as deigned to be a free-flow type, and anything other than the baffles that were designed for it will cause excess back pressure.

You're 17. Have you discovered girls yet? When you do, this will all become a distant thought. She'll be cute, and she'll like you. This will be her... and this will be you... Get yourself a job, you're going to need it. I hope I'm wrong and all your dreams come true Taylor.

Taylor, you sound like a really down to earth, smart young man. Your parents did a great job and I bet that they're proud of you. The plan that has evolved from your first post sounds like a winner. I am going to hit this from another angle, the angle of the consumer who doesn't do a lot of the mechanical things on my tractors. The one service that I would really like would be to have the mechanic come to my house to do the service. He would show up with his truck. From his truck he could sharpen blades, change the oil, tune up the engine, fix the minor things. The major things would have to be brought to the shop of course. It would be a traveling repair shop. This is just a thought that I have been tossing around for years but have never had the guts to try! You sound like you have oodles of ambition and will succeed in anything that you try. Please keep us posted! Good luck!

It's no joke...what life hands you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPvu3EEcBoM

I bite my tongue every time I see this subject come up. Many years ago I had an bare in-dash tach from a Camaro or GM 1/2 ton. Don't remember which nor do I remember if it was standard pre-1975 ignition or HEI. On the back of the circuit board was a jumper to select 4, 6 or 8 cylinders. I do remember that the vehicle it came out of was not available with all the engines listed. I know just enough about electronics to be dangerous. I studied the 2 resistors for each selection which I assumed was a voltage divider (and possibly incorrectly named) and came up with 2 resistor values that would work for a single cylinder engine. I hooked it up to a 1955 B&S 5hp cast iron engine that used magneto ignition. To my surprise it worked. Later compared it to the results of a photo tach on many different engines and it was spot on every time. Never did find a small engine it would not work on. Garry

I had a video on VHS that I copied to a CD years ago. Its my 518H plowing garden with a Brinly (sp?) 10" moldboard plow. Video was taken in early 1990's. Not the most exciting video in the world, LOL But shows the Wheel Horse 518 easily handling garden work. Have a disk also that I used on it. My brother was up visiting, so he is on the 518H early in the video. I took over later. Used a Dynamark 11/42 Garden tractor before the WH. Havn't put out a garden in some years now. I used wheel weights & chains on the Dynamark, but never used them on the 518. Seemed to get along OK without. I have a 520H also, but never used it in garden work. Had the dealer install the sleeve hitch on the 518 when it was new. Have thought about switching it over to the 520. The manual lift on the 518 will wear you out. LOL http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=fd3xjWzv7Z8 Gregg,

Did someone say work?

Nice Denny, Glad that now I know some body in the machine shop business!! I'll get my orders ready ....

Well my collection is growing and i had to find a way to keep it organize. My wife said to me she doesn't care what i do with the tractors as-long i keep them organize and not laying all over the property. So if you pull into my driveway you will not see one tractor anywhere so i told her how many i have today 38 wheel horse tractors she almost fell off the couch. The key is guys to hide them and keep them organize. I have some behind the fence and the rest stack in the barn...Im picking another one this afternoon will post pic later..

I use an old reliable 654 for pushing snow and dirt. Used a 702 for mowing the lawn until it was sold in June so now I use a 655 for mowing.

I use my round hoods for work. Your friend is correct, if things are in tune and the engine isn't dead dog whooped she'll fire right up in cold weather. Click on link and watch video to see one of my rounds hoods at work. (or play) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIjOaO4gIWA

Thanks guys! I now know 100% more today than I did yesterday. I'm thinking I should take that $1500 and buy three tractors!

Lol hard to find they seem always come to me. I saved half of them from being junkyard material. Just think of me Wheel horse saver. The truth is I enjoy the hobby I buy a lot other power equipment and these guys follow me home and I keep them. I sell all the other tractors cubs,case,deere,etc that's how I fund the collection. Plus I feed parts to the other wheel horse people trying to restore or fix there wheel horse.

You are right, most of my are 50 years old and older and they are ready to get the job done, the old Lowe's MTD I gave the kids only lasted about six years.

Two comments: 1) Get yourself into a local 2-year business school to gain knowledge of business finance, operations, marketing, etc. Two years is a flash-in-pan and you'll avoid the unnecessary liberal arts bs. You will find this education invaluable regardless of your career path. IMHO, everyone should know how to reconcile a bank statement, calculate interest on a loan, manage money (budget), and all the other things typically ignored that people pay accountants (like me...retired) to do for them. 2) A friend of mine age 45+ started a little lawn-mowing service in his neighborhood. He had a $22/hr full-time labor job and did the lawn mowing on the side in his first year. In the winter he was plowing snow for many of the lawn mow customers...once again, on the side. When spring came around, his 19 year-old son started going with him for the lawn mowing, which quickly went into landscape maintenance for wealthier souls (Doctors, Lawyers etc) and he picked up a used ZTR, too. By the end of the summer, he had bought another truck with a small tag-along trailer to haul the equipment (mower, trimmer, weed-eat, etc). Long story short..... in 5 years time, he has a year-round business with 10 or 12 employees and an office secretary/bookkeeper. Most of his equipment is fairly new and he is found all over this 3-county area doing landscape service of most any sort. Recently he took out a contract to provide Job Jonnies at auctions, construction sites, and the like. He quit his $22/hr job and is now his own boss.

Just a side thought...although the author is unknown here is my favorite quotation: "If you think education is expensive, try ignorance".... Get your education first, then the "business decision" will follow. I always wanted to own a hardware store in my younger years....after military duty and then a college degree, the answer was NO to the hardware store....too many other options came into view...some that I had never thought about. Good luck in your planning and remember the good ole USA gives all of us the freedom to live the AMERICAN DREAM ...to do what ever you think you can do......own a business, drive a truck, fix computers, sell ice to eskimoes, fix sick people, play pro sports, play the stock market....oh to be young again! As a side thought, a local guy started a little business in a vacant chicken house...his labor rate was 49 bucks an hour.....all he did was change oil and sharpen lawn mower blades for homeowners that did not want (or know how) to do the dirty stuff on lawn mowers etc....he made about 500 bucks every day and alot of it was CASH.....pick up and deliver service before and after business hours brought in another 100 bucks!!!....in todays busy words every body wants fast SERVICE and he provided that (if we had to wait an hour for a hamburger, Micky D would be outa business) PS...I still have thoughts about that hardware store!!! managing a store for Tractor Supply CO was as close as I came...was a good "education" because it led to another long career in an field (non retail) that I had never considered. I have a feeling that you will find your place in the business world as you have already asked for advice...go for your dream!!!

I like the 8hp tractors. I have a c-81 that has become my everyday worker.

I think you're on the right track. College first, make a little side money and see where it takes you. Sounds like you have a good head on your shoulders and will do well in any direction you choose. Good Luck.

Ah to be young again .... let me give you my own personal take based on 50 plus years of playing with all things mechanical and running a couple of very part time businesses (actually hobbies - more later). These are just my opinion and hopefully a few members with more tractor specific information will chime in. First - before you do anything - do the math. Plan A - how many tractors would you have to flip a year and how much profit per tractor would you have to make to make a living ???? The math doesn't work - not enough hours in a year - not enough tractors available. It might work as a sideline to a "small engine" repair shop where you repaired all things small and mechanical - but not standalone. Plan B - First, you need to expand your horizons to include all makes and models of old equipment - not just Wheelhorse. Second - in order to make a living you have to become large enough to turn over a lot of parts. What you will basically be running is a salvage operation. Look into local and state laws regulating salvage operators. Some states will require you to inventory each part against the purchase price of the tractor - you will spend a lot of time on bookkeeping if this is the case. Second - in many areas this type of operation is a magnet for local authorities in regards to everything from storage conditions to waste disposal - nothing will shut you down quicker than a cease and desist order from the local authorities.Third - you need to keep everything above board from an accounting standpoint - the IRS can shut you down as quick as local authorities. It's one thing to have a part time business dealing in restoration or parts. Even in the old car hobby few "restore and sell" places make a living solely from sales of cars - they have to supplement with repair work on the side and/or a going parts business. Second - very difficult to run as a one man show - a supply of fairly talented, cheap and reliable part time labor is essential - family preferred. Nothing is impossible at 17 - but crunching a few numbers should convince you that Plan A comes very close. It is extremely doubtful that Plan ""B would work as a standalone. In running numbers do a quick calculation on start up costs for equipment and inventory - tools are not cheap - not even at HF. Honestly not trying to throw cold water on your ideas - but "do the math" before you invest a lot of time in the process.... More experience than I care to remember ....

I just looked up the nearest location... looks to be not that far from me. **** On a side note I Googled this stuff also and overall it looks as if this stuff works fairly well and responces are generally positive... I may give it a whirl. Try : http://pure-gas.org/

MY 1968 INDY 500 SPECIAL RESTORED 2 YEARS AGO

here my wheel horses from 1968-1979 1967 857 and 1975 c 120 hydro 1968 commando 8

I want to nominate my c161 8 speed. It was a P.O.S. when i bought it on E-BAY around 2005. It was painted med. metalic blue. & didn't run, I striped the paint ,rebuilt the engine, widened the rear wheels & put on new decals, I know the ones on the hood are on the wrong side but too bad! I put a complete NOS. sleve hitch on it & it's my plow, disc, dirt tractor. one of my favorites! As you can see im not afraid to get it dirty or work it hard. thanks Jay In NC

Here's a Commando 800 I rebuilt for my grandson. Pretty much stock except for a set of 22-750 rear tires from a 76 B80 and a seat bracket from an older Raider to allow for a bit more leg room. My Mother used this tractor since about 1980 until health issues forced her to stop. I hauled it down here to Florida to rebuild and then hauled it back to northern Indiana for my grandson. A sharp eye will notice quite a few tweaks done to it during the rebuilding process.

Here is my 1969 Electro-12. We have a habit around here of naming everything and this one is affectionally named Kenny. Named Kenny because I got it in 2010 in a trade with Ken B. I still have in my mind the picture of Ken driving away with a basically empty trailer with only a little Suburban in it, while I had tractor and tractor implements basically falling off of my truck. I never got over the guilty feeling. This is the work horse around here. Absolutely invaluable.Runs beautifully and starts every time.It has power and its fast. The entire property is maintained with only this tractor.I now pull a gang mower with it instead of using the deck. Its major advantage however is plowing in the winter since the Hydro is easier and quicker to operate the plow than a regular set up. This is a machine that definitely changed how everything is done around here.Thanks again Ken. .

My Spirit of 76 C-160. Smoked like a chimney when I first got it. A little Seafoam in the oil and working it hard cleared it up. It does all my mowing and most of the snow removal. Customized lift lever for one hand operation. Electric fuel pump installed. Killed the hydro pulling a fertilizer 3 yrs ago. Rebuilt with E-bay parts. Nice comfy seat. No tear downs on this tractor, just work. 817 hrs.

My son "Andrew" would like to nominate his Tractor. It's a 1967 L-157 Lawn Ranger. It's for the most part Original with a few extras added.

I don't know Matt. He probably is for the moment. But just like once the weddings over and the new-ness where's off, you start second guessing yourself. I know a few months after I dropped a wod of cash for mine, I started wondering if it was really worth it. Then I kept reminding myself about the rarity of it and think of it as an investment. Not only monetarily but for my own mental well being! In this day and age of the world we live in now, these old tractors help me to remember how our country once was and how I wish it could be again. A slow and easy paced life with not much a care. I sometimes just go into my shop and sit and stare at both my 55's and wish I could be back in that two car garage with Elmer and Cecil making these tractors. When it comes down to it, this is what keeps me going (of-course with a little help from SteveBo once in a while pulling me back from the edge!).

I have no doubt the product works as a PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE item (I use it on every engine I have, cars, boats, tractors, weed wackers, etc) I have some serious doubts about using the product to CURE a major problem. Case in point would be to de-gunk a car engine with plugged oil return passes in the head. If the buildup is already that bad, I think breaking the buildup loose inside the engine is probably a bad thing to do. Otherwise, I give it a "9 thumbs up" rating.

Really useful stuff here - I'm convinced we 'D' owners really need a 'D' section on the forum. I've started a thread in the 'site suggestions' section. http://www.wheelhors...n-on-the-forum/ Please check it out and give your support if you agree.