Leaderboard

We were traveling along I-68 on our way to Chambersburg PA and noticed a Wheel Horse sticker on the back of a truck window. As we passed I realized it was Stevasaurus and his wife. What are the chances? Good thing we met up because he led us right to the Comfort Inn in Chambersburg. Nice place to stay and we will be staying over Sat night to rest up for the 820 mile trip home. Having a great time already.

How's it go Steve? Hiccup! Burrrrrrrrp...aahhhhhhhh.

Yeah, OK! Like you don't know... I bet he's sipping rock-n-rye out of his new member mug as we speak.

I built my own 520 extension to fit my tractor which as the 520 front end. I mounted a centre pin from the front attach a matic to minimize any deflection. I also built the bracket to take weight. It kept the front end from deflecting. It worked well.

The 520h was built to be the best. Unfortunately the Onan won't last as long as your 10hp Kohler.

If you have to sell the 310-8 to help offset the cost or make space for the 520 I wouldn't do it. Sooner or later you'll need the backup. Parts and repairs to that Onan are EXPENSIVE.

It should read: STEAM Train Ride As requested some photos & video of the Cass Rail Road Steam train. Changing track direction at a "Switch-Back"

Just five days before I have to load the horses onto the trailer for the trip to the big show, I can finally say that I am finished (for now). I got all the decals on and took a test drive to the end of the driveway and back. So, just a recap. Here it is when I brought it home back in September. And here it is today. Just a couple of minor touch-ups and tweeks and she's ready to go.

Here's a link to some video from Mid Penn this past Saturday. Had a great day of pulling! Finished 1st in Super Stock with Crossthreaded and 2nd with Unbridled. Then in Pro Stock finished 2nd with Crossthreaded and 4th with Unbridled. So far I'm tied in points for 1st in Super Stock and leading the points in Pro Stock. Going to be an interesting pulling season if I can keep this up. Just hope the link works for the vids lol http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL-HnWi8dIsWrgmasn-t6-cAvdlOsR95ES&feature=em-share_playlist_user

I always use my backpack blower after each use, to get loose grass. Always try to mow when dry. I have ramps that I drive up on and power wash the underside when required. Don't need it too often mowing dry. I vac the air screens after every use. Winters the decks come off, plows go on for winter duty. At times, I use the plow during the summer to level some stone in my driveway. Deck is oiled and cleaned thoroughly when the deck is off. A clean machine is a mean machine. :smile:

She is riding like a champ. 820 miles and the tie downs are all tight. See ya soon Brought a bunch of stuff but who knows if i will have what people want?

Are they riding all the way on your lap?

Where's my room??? EEEKKK!!! Oops, sorry mam!

Wet or dry, clippings will still accumulate unless you do some treating or washing to the underside of the deck. Myself, I wax the underside, at least twice a season, and also use a product called Mo-Deck.. It does keep down the buildup and you will see a difference in how the clippings exit the deck with a side discharge deck. If the underside is not kept clean, it does reduce the "lift", in wet or dry, that the air creates under the deck.

Did it look like he had enough air in his tires?

I can assist:

should be on the road to a motel in Dillsburg,Pa around 5pm today. HAVE A SAFE TRIP to everyone going Brian & Jo Marion

I've been wondering about the Van myself. Just got done loading and got the yard work done. Leaving at 6:00 A.M.

I'm just about done loading up. Hopefully I'm not forgetting anything, here are a few things on the list that I need to deliver to people that I have loaded up. Grants Seat back and cushion ag tires cast rear wheel weights 701 hood Leaving my house at 3:30 am tomm morning to rendevous with the CT convoy. I've spent a lot of time and dough getting Big Blue into shape for the trip. I'm keepin my fingers crossed!

Safe travels everyone, looking forward to this years group picture, it's sure to be a keeper!

I pulled my PTO recently just to see how it worked... What I determined is that the inner needle bearing only spins when the PTO is disengaged. Once engaged, everything spins together so the inner bearing probably gets a LOT less wear than one might think. I bet they rarely fail. The outer bearing is spinning when the PTO is engaged. If any part is going to wear it will be that bearing, and the outer C-clip and groove on the stub shaft. Since it's so easy to remove the PTO assembly, I would wait until there's an actual problem. Maybe just clean up the old grease, repack with some new and replace the seal (which mine uses a 6663, sorry I don't have a cross for this) ... My 1980 C175 uses the same 106769 needle roller which is a Torrington J-2420 The outer bearing is shown as a 106947 on mine, and I don't have a cross for that one, but I think there was a thread I saw that had a replacement shown recently. What does your part list show as a part number for the 'stub shaft' ? Check the thickness of your clutch facing. The originals were riveted and if it's worn down to the rivets it's time to replace. The replacements I've seen were bonded... no rivets, about $70 or so for a new one.

Glad those lights took your eyes away from the JD suitcase weights.

Mowing in 3rd, unthinkable.........I keep looking for 4th ! Depends on, How smooth's the ride. How longs the grass. How wets the grass. How much it hurts your @ss. How many other jobs 'Er indoors has lined up for you.

What you are comparing is similar to an analogy of a 4 cylinder pickup truck to a V8 pickup. For light duty, both will perform well and you will benefit from lower maintenance and consistent lower fuel bills on the 4 cylinder. The 4 cylinder will not have the "grunt" of the V8 in hauling heavier loads and will wear out quicker if you constantly ask it to perform at or beyond its limit. You can perform the same work with a 4 as an 8 but you will have to make more trips in the 4. In tractor speak, the 520 will gobble 2 or 3 times the fuel as the 310 when cutting 1 or 2 inches off the top of your lawn. The 310 will struggle more in heavy snow throwing. A 520 will clear your drive in half the time of a 310. The 310 will still have a slight edge on fuel consumption savings. Remember horsepower is a given amount of work over a given amount of time. Half the horsepower still gets the job done only it takes twice the time. In my experience, one consistent hallmark of an Onan user is they seem to always have a backup tractor parked in their garage or have a WH "bubble gum machine" like fleet of tractors out in the barn. When the Onan fails, they just grab the next Onan in the barn and keep working. Not a bad setup if you have the room, desire, and $$$ to maintain multiple tractors. Some folks just want to cut an acre of grass and not start a collection. Also important to consider, when querying members of a tractor collectors site, you might not receive completely unbiased opinions. More and more often, failed Onan engines will be replaced with a Honda or Briggs Vanguard engine. A good choice, but a $1500 to $2000 choice. This trend is the most powerful evidence of the "qualified" love and dedication of the Onan power option. The qualification being "If it runs, I love it. When it dies, it's outta here". I provide help with electrical issues on several forums on the internet. Onan issues are without doubt the most time consuming, most difficult and most expensive issues to resolve. Folks who have access to inexpensive machine shop services, don't mind spending weeks / months searching for used Onan parts, or have room for at least one other tractor to mow or blow while the Onan is being rebuilt, typically think Onans are the cat's meow.

Spending the night in Elkins West Virginia. Will ride the steam train at the logging camp at Cass WVa tomorrow then head to PA for the big show. Woo Hoo.........

These from -- http://stopandgotires.com/model.asp?model=Traction%20Implement%20I-3 --may be as close as you can get, the ag tires in 15's just arent out there. I used the 7.6/-15 in these American Farmer, theyre no doubt over sized from the original but I was quite satisfied with the way they look - kinda bad a**! The 5.9/-15 might do, but the originals were 6.40-15 and I was afraid undersized would look worse than oversize There is a bout 1/2 - 3/4" clearance on the front edge and about 1 - 1 1/4" on top, they are 31" tall

Just gotta be different, don't cha Scott.

Usually its the 30 amp fuse (the one closest to the dash tower) that is not connecting. Check it out. Wiggle it with the tractor running and see if the voltmeter jumps.

A very special thank you to Karl Lyon. He created the book's online store and worked out all the bugs ahead of time. He did this strictly as a favor to both myself and all Red Square members, as I have never created a web store. He is a very good man. I will be leaving for the show tomorrow and will return home on late Sunday. I will be monitoring the online orders while at the show, but please keep in mind that I will not be shipping until Monday-Wednesday of next week. Don't worry about getting your book autographed as I have signed each and every book. Of course if you want a special inscription, you will have to be at the show. Please note that I will not be writing personal message inscriptions for online orders. Once again, orders begin on Friday. I know that you will be very impressed with this book and DVD. I look forward to seeing everyone's face when they look at it at the show! Michael Martino

Looking at the state of the connections on that solenoid, it does not surprise me it was getting hot. The high resistance would be enough to cook it and leave little current to turn the starter. Super clean every connection in the Start/run circuits first and start again before taking things apart. You may as well junk that solenoid though. Stick at it , you'll get there.

LOL! So Charlie...poop truck it is then?

Here are photos of my 653. It is 100% original. All decals are present and intact even on engine. Even the carburetor looks like it has never been touched. The plow has never been mounted with the hardware still in the sealed bag. Tires still have a lot of the "knibs" on them. It has only cut grass twice in its life. Cas (additional info edited in) Bought it in 2007 on eBay. It came from Columbus,Ohio.My fiercest competitor for it was Wild Bill. It was his questions to the seller and the fact that he stated who he was that really sparked my final interest in the tractor. Needless to say it did not come cheap. I seem to be the third owner. It was originally owned by an elderly gentleman in a farming comunity and it was only used by him for transportation. Its second owner had it only for a little while and used it only twice to mow an elementary school yard. I don't believe this tractor has ever stayed outside one day in its life or ever felt a drop of rain. With the exception of a bill of sale every other piece of paper that came with it in 1963 I have, down to the engine tag warning to put oil in before using. Everything feels tight like new specially the steering. It was certainly loved by its previous owners as testified by its condition. It has never been touched by paint or a wrench. It only had one diode changed at some time in the past . I can also state that it will stay that way for at least two more generations, since it will not go anywhere during that time.

My entry: (pick one)

SUBURBANS & RJ 58/59 TRANSMISSION CROSS OVER CHART FOR WH #5003 and #5010 TRANSMISSIONS DESCRIPTION..............................................................WH #......................VENDOR..........QUANTITY...........SIZE BRONZE BEARING (AXLE)..........................................1503.......................CB-1618-12..........2..................1" X 1 1/8" X 1 1/2" BRONZE BEARING (DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING)..........1517.......................CB-2224-14..........2..................1 3/8" X 1 1/2" X 1 7/16" INPUT SHAFT & OUT END OF BRAKE SHAFT.............1519........................S8K ground..........4..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 5/16" CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT & 11/44 GEAR BASE............1502........................NICE 412-35........3..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 3/8" INPUT GEAR NEEDLE BEARING.................................1518........................B-108...................1..................5/8" X 15/16" X 1/2" BRONZE BEARINGS (CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT............1504.......................EP-1214-12..........2..................3/4" X 7/8" X 3/4" BRAKE SHAFT (NEEDLE) IF YOU HAVE THIS............1508.......................B-1212.................1..................3/4" X 1" X 3/4" SEALS AXLE (FROM TORO ONLY)..(CAP)...................1257.......................83-2840...............2 SEALS INPUT SHAFT & BRAKE SHAFT (BALL BRNG)..1234......................741643 timken......2 SEAL BRAKE SHAFT (IF NEEDLE BRNG).....................1303......................7410 skf................1

Another great video from Jurassic Park Productions. Really nice Steve. :thumbs:

B O A T = Bust Out Another Thousand

Well the dog is behaving himself....or is wanting to get out the window.....lol

Sorry Craig, I haven't got around to taking a pic of the Horse in my rearview yet, but here is a pic of the back seat of our minivan on the way to church this morning. Matt :flags-texas:

Welcome to the early design years of the Sundstrand hydro DCL (direction control lever) on Wheel Horse tractors! First you'll need to study this: Then you'll need to check the tab on the end of the pivot pin (bolted to the outside of the hoodstand - left side) through the DCL assembly and make sure it's still welded to the end of the pivot pin. If it's broke loose, the entire pin and DCL assembly will turn together rendering the friction cone totally useless and the DCL will not hold position.