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Here are photos of my 653. It is 100% original. All decals are present and intact even on engine. Even the carburetor looks like it has never been touched. The plow has never been mounted with the hardware still in the sealed bag. Tires still have a lot of the "knibs" on them. It has only cut grass twice in its life. Cas (additional info edited in) Bought it in 2007 on eBay. It came from Columbus,Ohio.My fiercest competitor for it was Wild Bill. It was his questions to the seller and the fact that he stated who he was that really sparked my final interest in the tractor. Needless to say it did not come cheap. I seem to be the third owner. It was originally owned by an elderly gentleman in a farming comunity and it was only used by him for transportation. Its second owner had it only for a little while and used it only twice to mow an elementary school yard. I don't believe this tractor has ever stayed outside one day in its life or ever felt a drop of rain. With the exception of a bill of sale every other piece of paper that came with it in 1963 I have, down to the engine tag warning to put oil in before using. Everything feels tight like new specially the steering. It was certainly loved by its previous owners as testified by its condition. It has never been touched by paint or a wrench. It only had one diode changed at some time in the past . I can also state that it will stay that way for at least two more generations, since it will not go anywhere during that time.

Thursday is setup day...no one is in there on Wednesday...a lot of people milling around on Thursday...some sales are made then...gates open at 9:00AM...fair game after that. The best deals are Saturday, unless the guys want to haul their stuff home...on the other hand...if you are looking for that one thing, and you really want it...Thursday. Nothing wrong with Friday though. The food and the company is good all three days. The neat thing to do...get there Thursday morning...know what amcrules and squonk are looking for...buy it cheap and then sell it to them Friday and pay for your trip.

I do Agree with SOI. Enjoy a good running ONAN while it lasts. I'll never be convinced they are a good engine myself with all the "issues" that they have. My 520 is still runnin fine but when the Onan pukes beyond a reasonable repair bill for parts I'm gonna deep six it without a moments thought. My 520 will probably become a 516K when that time comes. I had a 416-8 with a Kohler on it. It did everything the 520 can do though not as smooth and sweet sounding. I think more than anything I like cutting grass with a hydro versus an 8 speed. I know this isn't about 520's here but ya just can't beat a good running one when you have lots of grass too cut.

Since Martin cant make it this year and Lola and I are blessed to be making the trip. I am bringing Martins fabulous C-125 to show. Well a picture of it at least. Because I am a sign maker I decided I better make us a sign for the show so folks can find me. I will be bringing a big assortment of odds and ends that have accumulated over the past few years. And some other fun stuff to sell to help offset the fuel bill. So look for this sign to sign up and get your Mug shot Mug.

Allright. I have read many an opinion regarding the Onan powered 416-8. I own one. It is a nice tractor. My Onan smokes slightly which doesn't bother me. What I am asking for in this thread is an education regarding this tractor. Why does it seem to be so highly regarded? It seems ordinary, as far as garden tractors go, to me. It doesn't do anything that my B-80 or IHCC 1200 doesn't do. I can't seem to " feel" the torque and the power that I read in other posts regarding Onan powered 416's. I am not wanting to pick a fight, I am wanting to be educated. I want learn to appreciate this tractor. Please help me out in realizing that my 416 isn't just a nice WH, but a tractor worthy of high esteem. By the way, please don't flame me because of I compared it to a cub! This may seem like a strange post, but I am serious. Thanks.

I was at my local WH/Toro/Kubota dealer last Thursday when I asked the parts counter fella if it was still possible to get a new 48" deck. I had been looking a used one for a while and couldn't find one. He checked a Toro catalog and saw that one was still offered. He called the Latham, NY distribution center and found out they had one left! He told me the price. After I picked myself up off of the floor and cleaned up the mess in my drawers, I gave him the OK to order it! I got the call on Tuesday that it was at the dealer. I went to pick it up, brought it home and wanted to share the pic that I took. So here it is, Model 78361, 48" Mower.

I'm gona use it mostly for pushing snow and looking cool. I like the look of the ag looking tires but are they any good in the snow.....I have chains on it now with the old tires....but the tires that are on it now don't match. One new and one old they are the same size but the old one is taller. I will either have to get another turf pro or go with something cooler......what do you think? Thanks Tom

When it comes to snow it is the chains that get it done. The Ag tires are a little rough riding on pavement but I have plowed with Ags and turfs with no big diferance, the chains are doing the work.

The flames look pretty cool.

Here's my entry. My restored 1961 701. BEFORE: AFTER:

That does it!!! I'm holding back the brats!!!!!

If you win I'll haul it back to NY for you. Then you'll have an excuse to run over to the Bouckville show

I keep mine lit so it is always out.

The proceeds from the raffle go back to the WH club don't they? I'll definitely get tickets to help the club.

Sorry Karl...just wishful thinking on my part. I was really looking to meet you this year...but I understand. I will take plenty of good pictures, and I will mail you the stickers for your MUG. from the show...you may get them Saturday if all goes well. Squonk...I will hold your tickets for you if you want...will figure something out if you win Mate.

I don't have either seat, but, the top one is kinda sexy lookin.

Here is one item I'm adding to my list for defense against E blended fuels. Remember guys - stop grousing and get busy investigating how to defend against the effects. If we need to upgrade fuel lines to poly - do it. If you need to change your habits of leaving too little E fuel in the gas tank when you store the tractor for the week - fill the tank before you store the tractor - don't grouse - do it! If you must leave the tractor exposed to the elements, find a way to prevent and water from entering in the gas tank. Is your fuel gauge lens cracked ? Then order one from Glenn and don't give water an easy entry into the fuel tank. Don't store your gas tank outside where rain water can intrude into the container. Stop whining - change your habits - look around and see where corrections need to be made. I am going to investigate coating the exposed portions of the internal parts of the carb with this http://damonq.com/red-kote.html I figure coating the inner surfaces of the fuel bowl and the "roof" of the fuel chamber above the bowl will certainly provide some protection against water oxidizing the aluminum parts of the carb and allowing oxide particles into the fuel system. We will see how easy this will be to accomplish and how durable the finish will be. I believe POR makes a similar product too. This one appears to be more easily applied. We will see.

Thought these may be of interest to an old concern Garry

These are all great OPINIONS, but I think he was looking for something more substantial than "I like the way they sound" or "it's soooo much fun to drive." Then the "welcome to the club" pitch you sometimes get - Right - Thanks. I think. On the plus side for ownership, I have not yet heard one convincing reason I would want an ONAN 16 HP engine on my tractor versus a Kohler 16HP, but since I do own several non WH Kolher twins, I do know from experience twins are smoother - much smoother than a single lung engine could hope to be. On the negative side, those who have had to repair Onans can rightly state the cost of doing any substantial repair work to the engine tends to get cost prohibitive VERY quickly. The gasket kit alone can cost more than an entire rebuild kit for a Kohler. I have 2 416-8's (one K and one M) , a C160 and a 520H which I bought 3 years ago. Guess which one is last on my rebuild list. Hint - it has an Onan engine in it. Why bother with the 520H at all then? I do want the convenience of a hydro for winter work. I'm sorry, but the grass in the intake screen is just way too much a PITA for me to ever consider using the engine for lawn care. Used for cutting "normal" lawns which don't get ignored and get trimmed more than just once a month, the B-80 would provide the same results as the MIGHTY ONAN with about 1/2 the fuel usage - maybe even less. In many respects, ONAN the EMPEROR has no clothes. It's just not a good look for me.

Its a personal opinion thing, some like Fords and some Chevys.

Before you spend time searching for and invest money on buying a new sensor - remove the sensor and measure the contact resistance at room temperature. Place the temp sensor in water at about 170 or so and the resistance should be the same as room temperature. Increase the temp of the water until just before it boils. The temp switch resistance should now have toggled to opposite of what room temp was. If it was an open circuit at room temp, the contacts should be shorted at over 200F. Somewhere between 180 and 200F, the contact resistance should toggle. If the change happens in the range of 130 - 140F range, replace the switch.

Great topic Jason! distributor: RECO (radio equipment company) in Indy. They covered much of IN an IL, perhaps more. dealers: Bill's Mower Shop in Georgetown, IL closed in 1990's I think. They were one of the biggest dealerships back in the 70's. Double Y sales in Cissna Park, IL. Still open. Fred's Radiator in Rantoul, IL. Closed in 1990's or early 2000's. I have the sign off their post. Christiansen Sales in Frankfort, IL. Still open but no longer a WH dealer. I think they are a member here and I have signs from their building too. El-Mel in st. Louis, MO. Started sellin WH in 1961. I have the first tractor they ever sold. Still open. Dad ought his tractor their in 1987. Art's Mower Shop in St. Louis. Owner is brother of El-Mel's owner. Still open as a Deere dealer, stopped WH in 1970's I think. A1 Rental in Collinsville and Edwardsville, IL carried WH from the 1970's thru about 1997. Franko Small Engine in Granite City, IL carried WH for a few years after Toro picked them up as a corollary product line. The name escapes me right now, but the Lincoln-Mercury dealer in Alton, IL was a WH dealer in the 1960's. I am pretty sure Chandler's in South Bend was the first dealership. Their building was literally a few feet away from the Dixie Way factory.

My dealer is: Lawson's Outdoor Power Equipment 113 W Main Street New Market, MD, 21774 He still has old and restored Wheel Horses on the showroom floor. Here is a picture of his sign on the front of the building

Yep, I got bit by the VW bug about 18 years ago. I've got a 68 beetle that I've put air ride on, a bone stock 78 bay 7 passenger, and a 74 thing that I basically restored with the exception of putting in military style tail lights and adding a homemade 2" body lift. Do you by any chance ever go to Circle Yer Wagens in Sevierville, TN? It's a great show and a great group of people! Dell

The sensor is the bimetal thermocouple type. My understanding about it is that the 2 different metals expand and contract at different rates. This one is calibrated to close at 200 degrees allowing voltage to travel through and to the light causing it to illuminate. ANything under 200 should keep the light out. All you should need is a new sensor

No this one's not for sale / at the moment anyway Brian

OK I mowed today until the hydro temp light come on. I brought our heat sensor home from work ( It has a lazer to point and sense). I hopped off and tested the trans case it was reading 120 degrees and the hydro filter was reading 130 degrees. I read somewhere on the forum that the hydro sensor is suppose to trigger at 200 degrees. Is that right? The engine oil filter was at 160 degrees. So I might be a sensor issue anyway. Anyone have ideas with this info on hand?

Like Stevasaurus said, It's more like a huge Reunion

In 5 days we will be hitting the road to PA. I am bringing the mugs and also a very good friend of mine who makes buttons has made us 50 button with the following artwork so we can identify ourselves at the show. the first fifty members who come and sign the member guest book will get a button that they can write their name or RS username on with a sharpie. Or just pin it to your hat or shirt. Still time to have a mug made if you have not requested one do so soon as I will have to start printing soon. Remember the mugs are no cost to members.

Thanks again everyone. I didn't realize the quality of the machine I lucked into. Looks like I am going to need to learn about what all this tractor can do so that I can take full advantage of it. Looks like I'm going to have to tell my wife I have a new hobby.

That is the Devil's number, we need to have an exorcisim for it!

Newly restored 701 bought this over the winter just finished it up....

As some of you guys might know I have a few hobbies other than tractors. I enjoy rebuilding and restoring vintage boats and outboards. I picked this boat up via a blockbuster trade with my brother Dave. He got the boat a few yrs ago and I told him when the time comes, I WANT it. The boat has mahogany benches and oak on the top rails from the factory. Time had taken its toll on the finish on the wood and Dave wasn't into restoring it. The boat is actually a pretty rare boat, it is a 1954 Larson Crestliner. It is 14 ft. long. Many moons ago someone painted the bottom green, it is supposed to be red and they also painted the sides silver. Over the past week I stripped all the old varnish off the wood and stripped the paint off the sides as well. I wet sanded and buffed the sides out and scuffed the green paint and painted it with a marine paint in the correct color. I refinished all of the wood. Next I will restore the trailer and paint it in period correct colors. I think it is a proud boat once again. The first pic is of when my brother first bought this boat, Like I said though, time had taken its toll. I traded one of my boats for this one, mine needed no work and my brother won't have to worry about taking care of the wood on this old Larson Crestliner. I also coughed up my 633 in the deal, and he tossed in a 1952 Johsnon 25 hp outboard. The motor currently on the boat is a 1953 Evinrude Super Fastwin 15 that I rebuilt and then cosmetically restored a few yrs. ago. My son Cole fell in love with the outboard so it is now his. The second boat is a 1958 Duratech I started restoring a few weeks ago, It was put on the back burner when I got the Crestliner. I have to finish that one soon or I might lose interest!

It's one of those questions that could go in to the abyss as far as how much oil filtration helps extend small engine life. Longer life likely has more to do with the method of cooling. The K series singles had a rated 2000 hour lifespan. Which if you run 50 hours a year gives you a 40 year lifespan- not too shabby, and I've seen many a well maintained Kohler do it. Many of the (better quality) pressure lubed with filter modern small air cooled engines have, you guessed it, the same 2000 hour rated lifespan. You notice the liquid cooled Kawasaki engines and the small Kubota and Yanmar diesels go significantly longer because the water cooling allows the engine to operate at a stable temperature. There is more benefit to keeping the parts cool and stable so they don't wear as fast over having a method to clean up after the wear that has already happened. -Mark-

Remove the key and try sliding the hub on to the axle. If the hub will slide on easier, then you should dress the key with a file. (the set screw will often deform the key and cause interference) Use emery cloth (and a file around the keyway) to clean the end of the axle, and sand the bore of the hub until it is clean. If you don't have anti-seize compound, at least apply a light coating of grease to both the hub bore and the axle shaft prior to assembly. Install the key (CLEAN the keyseat in the axle first) and install the hub. Tighten the setscrew to 35 ft. lb. and then the locking (jam) nut.