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My C-121 was naked after I did a quicky paint job, and I did not want stock type decals on it. I saw a set Terry did on a puller and talked with him about some changes and he came up with the veterans edition. Here they are, thank you Terry!

My entry: (pick one)

It's great to have at least one horse with a three point hitch but of course the down side is that it's Cat 0 and here in the UK these attachments are pretty much non-existant other than those originally supplied with a tractor at the time of sale. The other down side is that the pto shaft rpm is way too high by today's standards but there are still possibilities. Last season I got a used Cat 1 boom sprayer intended for use with a compact tractor and, having a 12 volt electric pump, it was ideal for conversion for use with the D-200. My son was about this weekend so feeling inspired and needing to spray we finally got round to the conversion. Nothing fancy, just two pieces of angle welded to the frame to take the Cat 0 bottom pins, it had taken a year though to get round to doing it. I managed to pick up a long Cat 0 top pin which with a couple of bushes attaches the top link to the original fitting on the sprayer. Add a bit of extra tractor wiring using the unused electric pto switch position on the dash and the rig was ready to roll. The tank holds 60 litres (about 13 gallons) and has a submersible pump. There's a shut of valve for each arm of the boom and a third valve to control the flow to the booms to get the spray pressure just right. Seemed good value for the £200 I paid for it but now for the test. So after a successful dry run on a test strip (or should it be wet run) using just water the tank was filled with selective herbicide that should get rid of the weeds that are poisonous to horses. Jez wanted first go as he'd helped with the coversion but I'll get my turn tomorrow when he's at work! Ds love agricultural work! Andy

Okay, so it's tomorrow already, and I promised some pictures. Here is what is done to date. All painting is complete with the exception of some touch-up. Yes, the ignition wire is melted, but that is the old wire. New one not installed yet. The dash is a Glen Pettit reproduction, the throttle knob is from a 1946 Jeep. The cable twists to lock! The choke, push-button, ammeter, and 2-prong ignition switch & key are all original. The white lettering was done with a Elmer's white paint pen (3 coats). So that's it for now. I think that I might be ready in time for the show.

I purchased a snow plow that was made for a newer Toro / Wheel Horse. Removed the plow and used the frame to make a receiver hitch for the front. It has a lift mount near the front of the frame and I also added the hydraulic lift near the middle of the frame. I have a second set of rims coming and lug tires. Will also brace the frame. Here are a couple pictures of the progress I've made. Pardon the green!

LOL!!!! Here are a couple rear discharge brush hog mowers we use.

"They can't put anything on the internet that isn't true"

If this were true I'd weigh in at a couple tons....lol

Sorry for the delay chaps, but now that its nice and warm and sunny and I've found my ...... its Jeep time! This is quite an interesting topic, so I'm going to start a thread in ~ non tractors discussion~.

I traded my Cub original for this beautiful piece of equipment. She came with the deck and push blade. Everything is solid and works awesome.

I have never seen one, but had to bring it home Wheel horse 22 rotary mower model number 3-1641 serial number 603802 I could use some advice on what year, how rare are these The gentleman i got this from, it was his father-in-laws and he purchased it new, came with the origanal manual

Your old case.... my new one ....dressed up.... ready to go....new bearings all the ay around .....1533 from old case was OK

Thank you guys for the feedback. I will think about posting it on Craigslist. If I do end up selling it, and separate the bagging unit from the tractor I will let you know. Out of curiosity, if I decide to hang onto it how much maintenance do these tractors need? I know that they need the yearly oil change, air filter change... but is there anything else I should know about? Thanks again, J.H.

OK...Terry wins.

Its a roller right now... I was hoping to finish up the motor today but I had a couple of things around the house that needed to get done and ran out of time. I'll have a better up date in the next 24-48 hours. Thanks!

What you do is hang on to that one and get yourself something smaller like a 310-312. Keepthat one because you will decide you want a 520 anyway. Everyone does

Here are a few pictures, I apologize for the quality. If you want anything in particular let me know and i can get a picture of it for you. I mowed with it today, sorry for the clippings.

It isnt worth much, and since you are so far away I will go as high as 400 bucks

Went to pick this up tonight on a tip from a fellow Redsquare member Thanks Rydogg. Called my son (Prondzy) had to go soon, hooked up trailer and we are off . I was thinking all the way we would be late and miss the scrap . As we got closer the GPS had more turns than I can remember then around the last long sweeping turn we saw it. Someone else had beat us to it . I pulled up and asked if he was taking it all and he asked what I was looking for. I said the push blade and snow blower. He already had the push blade in his truck, he said you can have the blade and the blower . We kindly helped him load everything that was left. Tom

Picked up a nice looking Original Cab brand cab on Saturday. Got a pretty good deal. The seller said it was for a WH, but didn't know what model. I'm sure that it will fit almost anything with some modifications. Anyone with information or manual for mounting a cab on a B-80, GT-14 or D-200 would greatly be appriciated.

I recently removed a fly-wheel by using 2 pry bars 180 degrees from each other behind the fly-wheel...Run the nut flush with the crank. Put pressure on the pry bars, smacked the nut and it popped loose. A air chisel/hammer rapping on the fly-wheel should be a good removal method.

this was my dads tractor. this the tractor I grew up on.

Send me a pm with the image you want Russ terry

Hi Andy, no shows, maybe one day (same with the 's). The Jeep was bought at auction in '59 by my father, first registered in '65, hence the 'c' plate. It got a crane fitted and sprayed bright yellow, he used it as a breakdown truck for his garage business, a few years later the crane was removed when he went farming. In the mid '70's it failed the MOT and was pushed to the back of a barn. (replaced by a LR) Dad always said that he would restore it when he retired to the type of Jeep he drove in Palestine when he served in the Parachute Regiment. (hence Pegasus) Four months after retirement he suffered a massive stroke, he survived but lost the use of one side, this was '96. I made enquires and found a Jeep enthusiast local to us who did the restoration (you probably know of him). Over the following year + we would take dad down to see his Jeep resurrected, after it was finished he had four years of pleasure from rides out...before he passed away. The gent who restored it did say that a military plate could be used but dad (and I) wanted to keep 'the three little ducks'. I didn't realise about the MOT situation, Its due so I'll find out. Thanks for the heads up.

Use the AC setting on your multimeter and check the two stator wires that go to the regulator. Should get around 28 volts running a near full throttle. If you have that stator is OK and a charging issue is either the regulator, the wiring form regulator to battery or the battery itself could be bad. What DC voltage do you measure at the battery with the engine off...what voltage with engine running???

Goats.....Oh, wait a minute, they are rear discharge...Sorry

One of his pages says he will be at "The Big Show" this year.

With all knobs, inserts & plastic parts, it is a good idea to add a drop or two of Rubber Cement (tire/tube), because all plastic expands & contracts in hot & cold weather, the plastic & holder loosens, the knob falls off and is often lost. Rubber cement will hold them on snugly,

Bob....Janes Market in Biglerville is now Kennies Market....pretty good donut selection now and pretty tasty too...right inside the door. The two store owners were related anyway,,,,brother and sister.... There are Kennies stores in Gettysburg and Littlestown also. There is a truck driver that brings donuts to my office once in a while from Westminster.....each donut weighs in at like 8 ounces...no joke.....don't know where he gets them.....

I use 4 ounces of STP oil treatment on the small K181, 6 ounces in the bigger 10-16 K singles. One bottle lasts a lot of oil changes. -Mark-

Lars, I am going to the show this year and I live outside Louisville, KY which is about 2 hours north of Nashville, TN. Not sure what you are looking for but if getting it from the show to Louisville helps, let me know???

Have had a couple of good days working on the 701. The good news is that I finally got to the point where I could run the refreshed K161. She fired right up and purred like a kitten. No smoke or unusual noises. Interesting note however, the original cam-driven fuel pump was leaking gas into the crankcase, so it was rebuilt with a kit from Then & Now (Maritime). As was noted in another thread, the holes in the diaphragm did not line up with the screws, and the one-way valves had to be modified. So as one might guess, the pump did not work. So I had a vacuum pump that I had rebuilt with a new diaphragm from buckrancher, and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the quality parts Brian. More progress will be reported tomorrow when I can take a few pics.

Got this 1965 1054 from an 88yr old gentleman that had bought it at one year old from the OE, so it had pretty good provenance for most of its life and it was in surprisingly original condition, though pretty badly neglected with poor maintenance and sitting outside. Gas tank rotten, with rust flushed all through system, front suspension/steering badly worn/sloppy, LOTS of rust, with some places eaten through, wiring a total mess, no grille/headlights, engine on verge of throwing rod, bad tires, etc, etc. Completely disassembled and sand blasted everything, replacing/repairing any thing needing it, using Rustoleum 'Sunrise Red' for paint. While I did want to bring it back to 'original' as possible, many will note that I veered from that in places, but I think I was still able to stay pretty close to a Wheel Horse look. The most obvious is the seat - my thinking was the original seat was a pretty poor design anyway and after market seats are plentiful and cheap, so --- thats a Target seat off a handicap scooter! Steering wheel is a 3 spoke instead of a 2. The original size rear tires are non existent, so they are larger. A sharp eye will also note the addition of caster wheels on the front of the deck, I thought the original skid bar was also a poor design, so I made a correction there also (and casters there work MUCH better too) Also a sharp eye will notice I went to sleep when I put the hood decal on!! Oh well, aint that big a deal, I guess... (the hood was on the bench and not on the tractor...) Heres a link to all the pictures I took during the rebuild - quite a few of them, but I know that when I was doing this rebuild, scouring through the many pics here on the forum I was able several times to see an area that I had been puzzling about and the pic would help me, so maybe one in this bunch will help some one out.

I have ran across a couple of instances of problems with these newer Kohler factory carb kits for the Carter carbs that have a brass float needle seat and the needle with the rubber tip. I am speculating, but I believe the ethanol in gasoline is making this rubber tip swell too much, causing it bind in the needle seat. In the one instance brought to me, the engine was running fine then stopped as if it ran out of gas. On this carb, the rubber tipped float needle was stuck up in the seat and couldn't open. No debris or dirty gas, just the rubber point couldn't release from the seat. This carb had been recently rebuilt at a mower shop with the Kohler kit. The second instance was much more dangerous, yet the similar scenario as the owner kitted the carb himself with new Kohler parts. On this one the needle stuck in the seat in a manner which the needle couldn't close. This caused the float bowl to keep filling with gas, and the gas dripped out the air filter all over the floor of the person's garage. Not good. Same problem, the float needle was binding up in the seat and wasn't able to move freely due to the swollen rubber tip. On both these carbs I replaced the rubber tipped needle with an older style all metal float needle, using light pressure compressed air to make sure it would seat and not bind before putting back in to service. If you have one of these newer carb kits installed, you might want to inspect it. At the very least, close your fuel shutoff valve when not using the tractor in the event a float bowl overflow leak develops. -Mark-

Appears top be a stout machine. Good luck at the pulls! Its definitly not a GT14 as the title of this thread suggests tho . Mike..........

Hi Ian real nice looking Gt14 you have there . Hope all goes well with the resurection of the fine beauty. Glen Pettite does some real nice replacement Gt14 dashes and lever covers , & he also does those little black knobs that screw onto the levers Paul looks nice n pretty sat on her thanx paul for getting her safely to Ian Have fun with her ian they are great tractors & hignly desireable .

What a really nice bloke that Neil is

A Honda done properly will in my opinion make the tractor worth owning. The onan sounds good in person, looks good on paper, but frankly I would never own one. Not very durable and most do not make it past 1500 hrs without letting out a valve seat. The question is how will the honda age? A 520-H is not a collectors item, but rather that cadillac of all wheel horses. Its a shame a Magnum series twin was not chosen by wheel horse.

Original motors in older collectable machines makes sense when your talking about value. An RJ is worth more when the original motor is in it over one with a yank start Briggs bolted to the frame (for example). The 520's in my opinion are just common easy to find newer machines and have not become collectors items, so most guys own them for utilitarian purposes (mowing, plowing, towing carts), not for any collector value. I think anything that makes the 520 do "its job better" is a great idea. Heck, I would venture to guess the value of this 520 would increase after the Honda transplant is complete. Just my opinion of course... Mike.............

Nice Landy, nice TS. On the subject of Landys, here's my sons first proper resto project that I 'helped' with. Originally from an MOD auction, It had been in a field for about 12 years with a duff engine when we got it but the chassis was still good. It's a 1980 Series III long wheel base (109) FFR (fitted for radio) with 24 volt electrics and a 90 amp alternator with spilt charging system to maintain the main vehicle battery and the huge batteries stowed in the back to operate radio equipment. The civi registration plates are zip tied on as it has the original army reg plates underneath for showing. Hmm, many's the time I've driven my jeeps back from shows on army plates - never been pulled over yet. Andy

Photo's as requested. Sorry for delay. This is my 1986 Land Rover 90 in it's natural habitat. Fitted with an Isuzu 2.8 turbo diesel and full width intercooler. Currently being fitted with a new gearbox after 180,000 miles. The 1974 Triumph Spitfire 1500.

I hate paint Started to paint the parts (all 65 of them) last week, and had considerable trouble. I am using PPG Shop-Line single-stage acrylic urethane. At first I thought that it was the weather. Since it's only been in the 50's, the first day that it reached 65 I started to paint. Since I don't have a paint booth, I paint in the driveway. Some pieces turned out good, but most appeared to have lot's of little specks. So after letting it dry overnight, I wet sanded and reshot the paint only to have the specks appear again. Now I'm thinking dirt, pollen, or some atmospheric phenomenon. So I took the hood, fenders, and belt cover to my body shop friend. He's been painting for 30 years. He said he would paint them in his booth and I could pick them up the next day. When I got there the next day, he's as frustrated as me. Specks all over. His opinion is the PPG Shop-Line paint is BAD. It does not cover well, and something is causing tiny specks to appear, and it is not dirt. Well there is not enough time for a do over, so the paint is going to have specks in it. Next time I am going to use a better quality paint, and I am going to try base coat/clear coat. Here's some pictures as of this morning.

First and foremost I would like to thank you all for your support and patience with Lola and I over the past 5 years. Through all the ups and downs. It has been a journey for sure. My customer support has been all over the place from terrible to excellent and you have always been more than kind and understanding. Thank You Now for the good News!! Due to changes in our lives and the graduation of our daughter who is now a registered nurse and gainfully employed, Lola and I can make some changes that will allow us to focus only on our Wheel Horse customers and one major client. This will allow our customer service to improve immensely. As well as allow us time to ride our bike and attend tractor shows. We will be transitioning from our shop to home over the next few months and unfortunately I am old enough to start collecting my RR pension soon. All these things will allow me to focus on the things that mean the most to me. Wheel Horse tractors and our RedSquare family of friends. Thanks again for all your encouragement and support over the years and I look forward to meeting many of you at the shows.

Da' Big Bad Wolf! My son Jam Dawg & Grandaughter Shelby! Just picked this one up from RS member Jaydeer! Thanks Crazy Horse! 520 chassis, forward swept front axle, 8spd, 16hp Kohler, Streched round hood! SWEET RIDE! After a lil' red touch up! HORSEFEATHERS!

8hp can get most jobs done just a little slower than the big tractors. Having the hood would the Lawn Ranger be the last Round hood? This might be the heaviest round hood.

24+hp Honda V twin in a Lawn Ranger (belonged to a friend):

The GT14's are kind of an "oddball" tractor. They were designed as a heavier-duty, step-up machine from the slightly smaller Raiders/Chargers/Electros and were built to accept larger or unique attachments. They were the biggest in the lineup in the late 60's for WH. They aren't exactly rare, but they are far less common than other tractors of the same vintage. But that relative 'scarcity" is as much a factor of only being offered in one name and configuration for a several years whereas the other series saw a multitude of virtually identical models (e.g. 1267, 1076, Raider 9, Raider 10, Raider 12, charger 10, Charger 12, Electro 12, Bronco 14, etc...) While outwardly they look similar to your Raider, you will find that very little interchanges. They had larger rear wheels which provided more ground clearance which, in turn, allowed WH to make optionally available a 3pt hitch. The frame is diffenent than the smaller tractors and they are equipped with a heavy cast iron front end (grill) that serves as a counterweight for rear attachments. The hood is removable (not hinged) so if you trailer it home be sure to strap it down. All of them were 14 HP and hydrostatic drive with hydraulic lift. These series of Sundstrand hydros (hydrogear type and later a piston-piston type) can be easily damaged by dirt infiltration. The grit will wear away at the internals of the pump/motor and will eventuall render them inoperative. Just make sure you are able to test the unit out by running it long enough to heat the transmission and put the tractor under some load. if it loses motive power you might be in store for big repair bills and/or frustration. If it works properly, it will last a long time with regular fluid changes. The tiller for the GT14 was a unique piece mounted to the 3pt hitch and powered by a short belt from the transmission input pulley. The mounting brackets for the snowthrowers are unique to the GT14. i think the 48" deck will interchange with other common-era tractors, but haven't personally tried it. The tractor was built to have multiple implements mounted at one time (put something on the 3pt and something in middle/front) and either "transport brackets" could be connected to the implement not in use to hold it up OR an optional independent hydraulic lift on the 3pt could be had (pretty rare to find). It was supposed to be a "3-acre an hour" mowing machine, but that seems wildly opitmistic to me unless you have a 48" wide strip of smooth grass a couple miles long... The GT14 is a desirable tractor from a collector standpoint, but because of their uniqueness they are a little less practical than the other tractors on a daily use basis. It carried on in the spirit of the "large frame" tractors started with the 953/1054 series and was the top line machine before the D-series phased it out in 1973. I have been looking for a GT for quite a long time now but have not found any that meet my price/condition/location criteria. If the one you are eyeing seems to be in decent working order and is reasonably priced (you'll have to decide that for yourself) jump on it. Any parts you need may be tougher to source than for a more common style tractor, but with patience you'll find what you need from this discussion board and its members. Go for it. Steve