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1954 POND RS 83 1954 POND PT 20

I will enter my 56 RJ35 when I bought this tractor she had just been thru a flood for the seond time in six years the poor girl was 10 feet under water this time after a complete and total rebuild

I'm gonna put my pair of 55's up. The Ride-Away Senior and Ride-Away Junior. The big brother and little brother together.

Folks, The moderating/admin team have heard from several of you (lead by KenB) asking for a specific theme for the tractor of the month. Well we have made the change and here are the categories for the remainder of 2013. Congrats the the winners in January and February! I will start a second thread for the March tractor of the month. Good luck and hope you all like it March- 1946-1957 (All Pond tractors - walk behind, Seniors, 35's) April- 1958-1959 (RJ models only) May- 1960-1961 (Suburban models only) June- 1961-1964 (All front mounted engine tractors including 701) July- 1965-1979 (All models EXCEPT for D series) August 1980-1984 (All models produced- Blackhood's C85,105,125,145,165,175 &C195 etc.) September 1985-Present (300,400,500, Vert Shafts Etc.) October D's & Auto 18's (Auto 18, D160, D180, D200 & D250) November Custom Workers (All models, all years best overall modified worker) December Custom Show (All models, all years best overall show & go tractor)

I have completed the transformation from 67 Lawn Ranger to working suburban prototype.I have reconditioned a free 36" inch deck and cant seem to make it adjust level.Well only on the lowest setting( mohawk setting)I need little insight.I have adjusted the front bump stop in all positions.When I adjust the cutting height lever,only the back raises.How do I finish strong on this passionate philly? lol

First Photo is the day I picked up the 46 Pond and after picture, The other photo shows my two 55 ride away Seniors

How about a 1957 RJ35 with a sickle...

I will volunteer to be the first to post a candidate. It is a very early production 1955 RJ35. Before and after pictures. I did a complete restoration on this one as it was just too far gone to keep original. Motor was redone by Charlie Pitcher and runs sweet with about 5-10 hours of run time. Pictures were taken prior to the lift lever fabrication.

i just got a 60' comercial deck and I believe a pretty rare front attachment bracket with the swivel wheels for mounting a 42 or 48 inch deck out front will try to put pics on here later!

I got a call from a friend who said his buddy had a old Wheel Horse that was junk and wanted rid of it for cheap, I love these calls! I went to look at it about 20 miles away and the guy said it was in rough shape. I checked it out and it had some issues but over all it was in pretty good shape. The 12 hp Kohler had a cam shaft that had some teeth missing and that was the worst thing. The head was missing but the head bolts were scattered around the machine. The left front spindle was broke off too. He kept saying how rough it was and may be a parts machine. I saw the hydrualic lift on the side and figured that was worth a few bucks! The seat is in great shape and seems to be a rare style of WH seat! I've seen similar seats on Ebay for $300 or more! So I asked him how much he wanted for it and he said to make him an offer. I said well is $50 enough for you? He replied rather quickly, that is was plenty! So it's a early 1970's Electro 12 with hydrostat drive, nice back tires, rims and hubs, dash is intact with all the goodies, lighter, pto switch, head light switch and a good pair of choke and throttle cables, hydraulic lift set up, nice steering wheel with center cap and a nice intact decal even! It also has the mower deck on it but it has some rust holes but not too bad. Good deal for the money! KJ

Way to give it a half hearted resto... lol

Thanks for the feedback all. We figured it would group a bunch of nice photos of the same vintage/models in one thread (kinda lke photo gallery).

The dash on my 1267 looks just like the one that Derek posted the picture of Denny. I got a decal from Terry for mine. BTW the light switch is still available from Cole-Hershee if you need one. I can hunt up a part # for you if need be.

This is my 1953 walk behind. It has a siklebar and cultivator.

I love the idea. It could make it very fair for everyone who enters.

Fellas, Thanks for all of the tips to help me get y head out of my... Martin hit the nail on the head. After looking over what I did, I realized that I didn't run a wire to the switch like suggested. So, wiring the solenoid like Save Old Iron said, and running the wire like Martin said, she purrs! Thanks Guys!

what a cool way to break it down! this way rj s dont have to compete with Ds ,Cs raiders chargers & broncos. congrats to the moderators for coming up with a workable solution. Jay

you coulnt buy a tractor like that around here for 500.00

IN THE SUMMER I TAKE JUST THE PLOW BLADE OFF MY GT-14 AND I MADE A UNIT TO HAVE A TRAILER HITCH BALL ON THE FRAME. THIS GIVES ME A FRONT TRAILER BALL TO MOVE MY TRAILERS. I JUST COME UP TO THE TRAILER AND RAISE THE FRAME TO LIFT THE TRAILER. RUSS

In my opinion thats not to bad....And I say that because that gear right there is getting next to impossible to get or find in good condition..If its going to be just a ride around tractor and not see alot of heavy use I would re-use it unless you have another laying around....Right there is a good reason to STOP before shifting..Thanks for the pics!

Thanks, have perused though nearly all with the "oldies" to get the initial concensus, but the expertise lead me to decision not a 551, but more than likely a 701. The help here is so great I knew some eye would know a detail I couldn't. All these wonderful photos are so great, every supplier did a great job, absolutely amazed at the resto... talent.

It occurred to me today that as I unloaded the transaxle from the back of my Ford Ranger form my Lawn Ranger at work today, that also contained a new rear end for my Ford Ranger that I pulled from the junk yard this weekend.... Somehow I had 3(counting the one under the truck) Ranger rear ends in my Ranger??? If I were a park ranger I could have had 4 Ranger Rear ends in my Ranger.

Price Price Price.... Here is how I value tractors... It's an RJ, I WANT an RJ, this looks to be a fairly well kept RJ...looks pretty sound. If it were close to me, and the guy shot me a price that didn't make my check book jump up and slap sense into me....I'd own it! Antique Tractors are worth what the buyer is willing to pay for them, or what the seller will take for them - whichever is more! He who has the money that matches his desire gets what he wants! whats with the blue seat and blade and STP sticker? Pinecone, if that price doesn't put you off the tractor...I would go get it! If that price scares you, maybe you should wait?

I'm pretty sure that Terry has that one listed as DASH #4 or 5. Take a look. http://www.redoyourhorse.com/servlet/the-159/BRUSHED-CHROME-DASH-DECALS/Detail I'm not sure what the difference is between 4 and 5, but I had him respace the lettering on my Commando dash.

hope this helps

I think "CABIN FEVER" is really hitting hard in Michigan......It will be over soon Sousakerry2. The big firey wheel will come back. And then, you can look at the pretty flowers. Now put your helmet back on .......

I have a 867 when I get a chance I will get a pic.

That has been for sale for a while and I'm sure that all of the CT and MA guys have contacted the seller at one time or another... as I aways have said previously, be very careful offering years of production on RJs just by pics. Just because it has a couple of parts and pieces from what looks like a 1960 year of production there is no way to tell from the pic whether its a 58 or 59. (The seat is not the correct color but, the rest of the tractor looks like original paint???) You need to look at the entire tractor and all of its parts (ex: front rims, date code on the tranny, possible serial tag, if the original engine... whats the serial number, the rear hitch, the lift arm indicator). With out the original serial tag you need to put all of this information together and measure with your thumb on the year of production. I only say this because there is this "hysteria" over RJ59's and I don't want you to purchase it on the believe that its a 59 for sure. It looks to be a nice RJ, thats what I would call it from the information I have in the pic.

That hood is not for a Sububan nut roaster... as said above its for a 701 or 702. The slots will tell you the year. Now a 701 or 702 score is not bad at all!

That would be Mr.Gene Simpson..(Gene S) on here now....

74 B-100 auto 37" snowthrower, 36" RD mower. In progress 75 C-100 42" snowplow. At farm 75 C-120 auto 48" SD mower, 42" snowthrower, 75 B-80 spare tractor.

St...ranger things have happened to you, I'm sure.

I started a group a few weeks back Vintage Garden Tractors Show & Tell also. We have over 150 members in two weeks. Daryel Shaffer also started Vintage Garden Tractors Buy and Sell.

one thing i would check is, do you have power going to the ignition switch battery terminal? if you dont have +12v going to the switch first, when you turn the key it wont be energizing the solenoid....... you need to run a 14 ga. or similar wire from the large terminal of the solenoid (that connects to the battery), to the 'b' terminal of the ignition switch. then your 's' wire (to the small terminal on the solenoid) will be live when you turn the key to start...... i would look and see if one of small terminals is marked first, the solenoids i use are 4 posts and i never need to ground the 4th. i just make sure that the solenoid chassis is well grounded.... your solenoid may need grounding though? not that it will affect the 'start' solenoid circuit but do you have the rest of the ignition switch wired correctly? ignition terminal, acc etc?

Nice video, looked like a slow motion square dance with a tractor....you know....dose-e-do and around we go ! So is there any reason you couldn't hang a deck off it? Would a deck clear the front wheels? It has a great turning radius for around trees and flower beds. Mike................

Finally! I had a chance to get back out to the shop and get the hydro motor back together. I had taken apart in previous vid and I had to stop when it came time to press the shaft out. I tried getting it out without a press and i buggered up the locking mechanism. I got the parts to repair that and I start the reassembly of the motor. In this vid i show how to install the locking mech, lapp the valve plate, lapp the cylinder block, the differenecs between a standard 15 series motor and the WH motors, and clean up a little. This motor will work on the D series and C series. I hope it helps a few people.

so what u did to this is built your own frame and added a cub tranny so u got any drawing of this frame an how u built it