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Layout is done And he hopes to run them off tomorrow. Then they will just need to be put together. Should have them in my hands for mailing Sat. :happy-jumpeveryone:

I got a call from a former wheel horse dealer about some wheel horse tractors and advertising so I made a little road trip today to check it out I didn't take the trailer since it needs some welding but I will get it repaired and pick up the tractors, what I did get was a sign that hung in his shop, he claims that when he quit selling wheel horse that he boxed up a lot of wheel horse stuff and packed it away...manuals, advertising signs, decals, etc. I will be heading back with cash and a trailer I told him I would take everything wheel horse as long as the price is right, the price on the sign today was FREE!! I offered cash but he wouldn't take it, it's not perfect but will still look good in the shop I am hoping for a lighted sign like the one I just picked up

Hey guys.. I found a nice beer to day when i was at some x mas shopping here is a pict Thanks Lars

I have a '79 C-101Wheel Horse that my Dad bought new on 12/28/79. I plan on adding to my collection this Christmas by picking up an 854 Wheel Horse. My Dad traded the 854 in on the C-101 and received $600 for it (I still have the original bill of sale). After 33 years, I want to get an 854 for Christmas just like the one I grew up on. I plan on restoring it this spring and have already started collecting restoration parts. I will be posting on here as questions and issues come up. I really appreciate this site and everyone who contributes to it. :)

I'm not sure that this applies to the later Rangers as well, but a normal short frame tractor plow will fit on an early Ranger with no problems. Guess I'll find out this weekend if it still works with my duals!

well i didn't get anything for my horse per say BUT i did get this for myself. i guess you can say it's my Christmas present lol.

I called but they close at 4:00. Things must be slow? I will try to look into what it would take to have someone make the original seats. I assume Milsco has all the original specs and tooling to at least make what Michigan made. Toro may have to place the order to Milsco or grant a license to someone to continue making them. Maybe Toro and / or Milsco would be interested if they received a minimum order? Original seats from the 70s, 80s, and 90s would be good to be able to get. Even if the foam and vinyl covers could be re-made, the old metal pans could be re-done.

Havent killed mine yet: The roller is supposedly 700lbs full of water. I'm probably going to plow with my Ranger this year. Suppose I'd better mount up the blade (its snowing right now...)

Terry I run a generic cast iron wheel weight, they are not make specific, they can be used on the front of back depending on rim size. Wheel Horse OEM or any make of 8" wheel weight will work on a 64 to 68 Lawn Ranger, the 62-63 years had the narrow rear wheel/rim combination. Rangers after 68 are a different breed all together & used a vertical shaft engine. Rangers didn't have holes drilled in the wheels, so to mount bolt in weights you;ll have to set them in the wheel, mark the hole location & drill. Scot the Lawn Ranger used the same parts as the other short frame Tucky powered Horses, like say for example the 653 or 656. Ranger 62-68 did use an aluminium block H60 instead of the heavier cast iron HH60 Tucky 6HP engines, but the tire & wheel combo is the most obvious differance. I was never a big Ranger fan myself, bought one for my son to beat on...he never got interested in it so I began useing it around the yard & became a Lawn Ranger convert. I use mine for about anything...mowing, pulling a cart, pulling a 4'X2' lawn roller, & snow removal with a WH Ranger spec single stage blower. It's been modified with an 8 speed from a 310-8, an HH70 Tucky, wheel weights, poly filled Duro ags, & a stack of weights on the rear hitch when I'm snow blowing. Not to bad for a light duty LT.

They use to make a high back in the same style. This is the only picture I have of it. Wish they still made it.

I finish dressing up my 68 Raider,New deestones(antifreeze filled to top),125# s apiece lead filled weights and a modified class 3 hitch with 100# s pinned to it and none,nothing,c'mon!

I still haven't got another to fix up yet, but I have picked up a few more antique Briggs engines. It seems like they're multipling like rabbits every time I turn my back! This one is from a Bolens Power Ho. I bought this one because its gas tank has a thu rod fuel shut off, which none of my other Briggs engines have. It also has the the long S bend pipe going to the air filter. Upon opening it up, I found it had alot of rust pitting on the deck of the block, paticularly around the exhaust valve, including some on the head gasket sealing surface. Strangley enough, the cylinder was beautiful with no rust at all, or ridge. I gave the cylinder a quick hone to break the glaze in the cylinder. I took it to the machine shop to have it decked, and the exhaust seat cut. There is still some pitting on the deck, as I told them only to remove enough to give me a cleand head gasket sealing surface. The gas tank was pretty rough too. I had to open it up, so I could remove the dents, and rust. I had to replace the threads for the gas cap as well. I then resoldered it back together, and primed it. I now have the long block assembled, and painted. I know its not , but its what I've been up to lately. Matt

I decided to give my C-160 a present this year. A 5 position snowplow sector to replace the 3 banger.

Looks awesome with a blower on it doesn't it? Just don't get in front of it when it is engaged. These may be a member's pictures that I saved in my picture library.

Go here- post #44 I "veed" out the cracks,mig welded them and ground smooth. Also remade the metal strips on the inside and welded them too. The only thing I needed to add was the extra hole for the cable being that it was a 300 series.

I'm not at my putor right now, but I fixed some cracks on my round hood project 2 winters ago, I V'ed out the cracks and welded them up both sides, ground them down, when I put it back together I used large thick washers called fenders washers, I work the tractor but will never work real hard so I figure it is good for as long as I own it, and being it was a gift from a dying uncle I'll never sell it. I'll add pics when I'm back on my putor

I've been busy the last couple days, so I haven't done much with the little Briggs. However, I did get the decals in the mail, and I had to put them on! I love putting new decals on restored old iron, as it really makes them stand out. Here are a couple pics. Matt :flags-texas:

Craig, weld it back up and grind it smooth. Then add a plate on the inside to act as extra support.

I'm digging that bucket!

I have 2 K181s now, still have the 13 horse on there now. One motor needs to be timed, pulled the cam out to change governor stuff, didn't even think to line up the marks putting it back together. I have just the one ranger now, a 63 and love it. It was my first horse, and still my favorite. I had a 67 that had the plow on it, and was really impressed with what it could do. I had a snow blower on the 63 with the 13 horse, that would go through some snow!!!!! Matter of fact, I put the big boy tires on it, and mounted up the blower this past weekend.

Christmas? I by presents for my horsies all the time.

What a friggin IDIOT. Is she going to run for Congress?

Thanks everybody for your input! after reading all the comments I feel good about putting a snow plow on a lawn ranger. actually it is just going to be for my son to use on his ranger and not for any serious snow removel. Thanks Ryan, I'll have to check out those wheel weights sometime. Thanks rollerman for your input also. Littleredrider, I'll have to maybe look into a k181 conversion some day Thanks paul for the cool comment about lawn rangers. LaneRanger, Thanks for all the Nice pics! That snowblower looks pretty cool Too! Mike, your Lawn Ranger is still one of my favorites!!

Looks like a good idea Kevin. Are those the logs that came from the tree that hit your house during Sandy? I am thinking about splitting a lot of wood this summer. Btw you might be able to get away sticking another hydraulic valve on there, and running it to the the lift cylinder and have your son operate the lift control after you get it hooked up to the log. -Charles

Here it is. Went ahead a bought it. Couldn't pass it up.

The 19th Annual Maumee Valley Gas and Steam show will be returning once again to the Allen County War Memorial Coliseum in Fort Wayne, Indiana on March 22nd - 24th. This has turned in to a great show containing lawn and garden tractors all the way up to farm tractors and steam engines. This is worth the drive and a very enjoyable atmosphere to enjoy looking at the old equipment in a well lit, climate controlled environment. There are some swap items as well as vendors set up around the display areas. Plenty of local attractions for the family to take part in and a nice large mall just down the road. Check here for more information and the address: http://www.maumeevalley.org/winter_show2009.html We are planning on displaying again this year with some good friends of ours. Hopefully you can make the trip and stop by and say hello to us!

My L-107 is my go to tractor out of 10 WHs. She does everything I ask of it and she is a lot easier to get on and off than her bigger brethren.

The Lawn Ranger is a 6 HP Lawn Tractor! Does a lot of things and I have not used weights on the wheels. I have used chains for snow. The lack of a spring or trip lever safety in the front blade makes the two underneath lift flat stock pieces vulnerable to bending if you hit something hard. I had mine upgaded to higher quality harder steel. I have seen them with added steel flat stock and bars welded on to strenghten the lift system. The Plow: The lift pieces: Some Lawn Ranger in action photos and videos: Dethatching Aerating the lawn Plowing Hauling: Mowing the Lawn: Snowblowing And notice that I can use my legs to move the tractor when it gets stuck -an easy move! Smiling Owner!

Nice sign, I'll give ya double what ya paid for it! :ychain:

Biggest thing to worry bout with this plow is it has no trip to it. So if you hit a curb or inanimate object, the tractor will stop dead and you are still going forward!! Also not the best for the plow/mount/tractor. Other was having to get off to angle it. Mine plowed like a tank. No weights, pulley's changed so it would go little faster, and the K181 wasn't running 100%, and still pushed snow. Now mine was on blacktop, not sure how it would do on gravel or dirt. Was also running 18" Ags...

He claims to have a new one so I may let the pictured one go if he finds the other one...I kinda got in contact with him at a bad time so he was unable to show me the rest of the stuff but when he is ready I will be getting a call. I got another lead tonight from another former wheel horse dealer that I am going to check out too bad all of these are coming up now when it is so close to Christmas . It always seams the great deals come around christmas time! Not that i have any money anyother time

five gol-den tomb-stone weigheigheigheightsss...

My 653 and 604 are both H60 teckys...the lawn ranger is almost the same as the other horses of the same era the trans is a uni drive, frame and other components are basically the same as the other short frame tractors (cast iron) the only major difference is the tire size and fender pan. I wouldn't be afraid of overworking them they are well built, I have a friend that put a 20 or so hp twin on one and he uses it for tractor pulls.

I have been kind of laid back the past few years on buying Wheelhorses. I have settled into what I really like: currently posses: 520-8 96' 314-H two C-161-8 .....and several attachments to go along with these tractors. I have been on the look out for a newer 60" deck for about 2 years. And for whatever reason I have not found one, nice enough, close enough, or at the right price. I had a 3 day work trip to Indianapolis last week. While sitting in the hotel room on Tuesday night surfing craigslist I stumbled onto what I thought was a typo. 1996 520-H with 680 hours, 60" deck, 36" tiller, 48" dozer blade with 520 completing kit for $700. The challenge at the time was that it was located in WV, about 7.5 hours from where I was. Unlike ebay where you can "buy it now", I figured someone would pounce on this deal, so I decided to go to bed. Two days later I left Indy at 12:30pm, and I decided to call and see if anyone had bought the tractor. He mentioned that someone was supposed to pick it up tonight, but he couldn't get it started. I told him that I would be interested in it, running or not, since my main reason was to get the mower deck. I told him to keep my phone number and if the person didn't want it I would come and get it. About 2 hours later he called back and said the guy didn't want since he couldn't get it running today. He had bought an new Onan ignition control and still couldn't get it to start. I told him I was still interested in it and he said he would sell everything for $500, I never suggested a lower price he just offered. I told him I would come and get it tonight if that was okay with him. (Too many times I have let ones like this get away when someone else swoops in and buys it before you get there). I told him that I wanted it and I would be there at 9pm to pick it up (4 hour one way drive). I got there at 9 and picked it up. He told me that 3 people had called that evening wanting to buy it before I got there!! Everything was a little sun faded but in pretty decent shape. Got it all home at 2:15 am and realized I had drove about 11 hours that day.....I was beat!!! The cool thing is it had all of the necessary parts for operation of the attachments. So many time you get a tractor and certain parts are missing.....but the rear lift assembly, idler pulleys for the tiller and belts were all there. Not sure what I am going to do with the 520 yet as I have yet to work on getting the motor running, but at least it won't matter since I got it at a steal to begin with. Thad (Ohio)

Currently, I've still got the cover off of mine, but this is it's pan.

got mine at northern tool.... http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_7687_7687

looks and some what sounds good ,But is it level or lever , and the ...5 golden tombstone weights... can not be sung as a sloow drawn out lyric........ just my .02

Here's a couple of the low-back seats in custom applications:

"SBV" stands for Short Block - Vertical ~ meaning it has a replacement shortblock. Look on the blower housing for the actual model number which should be 'V70' The biggest potential problem with that model is the shifter (boot) seal. They are virtually impossible to find and they are below the oil level, so if they crack or tear the tractor is inoperable. I had one given to me years ago by a friend who was gracious enough to flop it on my truck with the manure loader on his M Farmall. My son claimed it as his, so I stretched the frame, reworked the grille, installed bigger rear tires/wheels, and added a 12hp B&S engine:

Excellent work. It's great to see the old Briggs still running. :)

More food for though........ Is the block drilled & tapped for a starter or S/G bracket? (some weren't) In addition to the S/G bracket for the side of the engine block, you will need two cylinder head studs, spacers, and nuts - plus the top bracket and the slotted adjuster bracket. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Both magneto and battery ignition Kohlers have points, however condenser values are different between the two systems.

Ok here is the difference in the big base block and the small base block, there is a exception to the rule and I will show that in the pics. Small base block, these are the engine like the K241AS any big Kohler that has "AS" on the tag means it is the small base block, this is the style block used with the shaker mount engines. This is a small base oil pan This is the big base block oil pan, used on solid mount engines. This is both pans lined up on top of each other, see how the big pan will not bolt in place of the small pan. Small base block with oil pan setting on it, there is no place to bolt the big oil pan to this block. Small base block setting on big base oil pan, again no place to bolt pan up. Here is a exception to the rule, I have seen a few but not many blocks set up to use both style oil pans, this one is a JD 12hp you can see it has the small pan AND the ears to mount to big pan. This is a big base block with a small base oil pan setting on it, see where the block is machined out so the pan will not seal. This is the bottom of a big base block, this one is drilled but not tapped in the 4 corners where a small pan would bolt, most I've seen are not drilled, I guess you could drill and tap the holes or on this one tap them, and find a way to seal the ends of the pan at the block, but with the ears on the block, I'm not sure it will bolt in to the shaker mount with out hitting the mount plate for the shaker style tractor. Ok I said it might not fit, and I just had to know, so I went back out to the barn and mocked up a big base block on a small pan and set it on a shaker plate, 3 of the 4 bolts will fit tight but fit, one of them will not, as the engine moves on the rubber mounts the bolts that holds the plate in place through the rubbers do not move, so the ears on the engine block I'm sure will hit at least one bolt if not 2 of them, one on each side, even more so if the rubber mounts are in bad shape like most are.

Finally figured how to use flicker with photos so here goes. Here is the finished High CHute Cover. It is made from 22 gauge sheet metal from TSC and final product is very sturdy, almost as stiff as the chute sides and fits pretty much like those shown on the photos in this thread. I opted for wingnuts with independent holes for easy removal, so it is dimensioned to bolt on using the holes already there for the Vee shaped wire guard. To attach it using the chute side bolts, just extend the sides another inch or 1 1/4". Note the left wingnut does clear above the gear drive. The tall chute leans forward 1" for every 4" of height. If the cover has a square bottom it will be vertical and stick too far into the chute opening. I tried this with the square top down and it went deep into the chute. So it is my opinion the cover must lean forward about half as far as the chute shown here. To make it lean forward the bottom of the cover needs to be trimmed to form an arc about 1/2" high in the middle. The curved bottom tips it when the entire bottom is sitting flat on the gear ring. I made a mockup first with thin aluminum flashing and by trial and error I came up with the dimensions shown on the dimensions diagram below. I used the tin as a template to mark the thicker sheet metal for final product. To get the large radius bottom arc I used a metal yardstick and bowed it sideways until the curve made the 1/2 inch rise in the middle of the bottom and touched the outer bottom corners.. I see this keeps coming up too small to read well so I included it as an attachment file as well. I hope you can then read it and print it ok. Ignore the clipped corners. That was an interim cut. Here is the finished template flattened out again. You can see the fold lines which should have a tight crease and the cliped lower corners to miss the side chute bolts. Here you can see those side bolts and the 2 bolt heads that the bottom slots are cut to let the cover go over the bolts. I tried to keep it inside those two lower bolts but it would only work if you attach to the chute side bolts and nto the wire guard holes I am attaching to. Looks like I need a little touch up paint? Here are a couple views of the finished product. Just need a coat of paint or two.......Then some snow to see how much better this functions. Mounted it looks to me to be about the same as the Toro covers. However Jachady mentiions he might like it taller as some snow still bypasses his after he swapped a tall chute with this cvoer onto his single stage. I am a bit leary this will clog mor if wet snow so I have a quick removal before starting to blow if it is wet. Because the sides are bolted so the bottom corners are snug to the baseplate and the front ttouches the plate as well, tugging on the front realy doesn't move it hardly at all so I am not afraid of snow damage to this 22 gauge metal. BTW I used pamn head bolts but hex bolts would not interfere with snow as the heads are actually outside of the base plate opening so that might be better in case need to get a wrentch on a rusted bolt to remove the wingnuts after wet conditions. One last photo of my small herd of workers. Maybe not beauties but they pull their weight around here......

Well ,It's been a quiet couple of days here at Lake Wobegon.....Wait! Wrong forum! That's NPR ! Anyway, It's been a busy time here at Red Dead Redemption land!Rain finally rolled in today and put an end to the sandblasting. Not that there aren't other things to take care of! Here's one that took a day by itself. While blasting the frame I found this: I read here on the forums that the frames took a beating from plowing and I'm glad I tore it down . It would have been a waste to get it looking good and have the transmission fall off at a later date! I gouged out the cracks, pulled it back together with clamps and rewelded it. I also made two plates to strengthen the main plate. The original plate on the bottom had split into three peices. Also had to straighten a foot rest support that was bent. You can see the two plates that were made before they were welded in. I also put in the hole for the rockshaft cable. It's supposed to rain for the next few days. I'm thinking about making a spray booth outside to get the parts at least in primer. It will have a pitched roof though. I once built a flat roof and used plastic,it happened to rain and there were these huge bubbles hanging over the car just waiting to burst! Never did that again! I'm thinking about using 1/2 inch electrical conduit and a heavy clear plastic for light. Maybe 10'x 15 to 20'? I want to fit as much in as I can so that I don't waste the 2 part primer and red with hardener. Lots of body work before I see red though! Well that's it for now. I have a lot of pics so far for reference and documentation. My memory isn't what it used to be :hide:

I love my Gt14 !!! Hydraulic lift is very nice. I also used my b-60 last year and that pushed great also. I have a c-175 with a bucket but havent used it. Cant get caught playing when u have a back injury. My neighbors grandson has been doing all the plowing. Its killing me 2 watch and not play :banghead: