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On a roll, wife is mad, bought 3 tractors in the last 3 months. Oh well.

THANKS TO: Tim, 1maidinfan, Trouty56, Kelly, TWENTYHORSETWIN, Rollerman, Wheel-N-it, stevebo, Jake Kuhn, jusjeepn, Shuboxlover, pfreeri, Tankman, JackC, sgtsampay, markjs, KC9KAS, AND ericj I HAVE BOUGHT THE WH 18 AUTO. WHAT I FOUND OUT WAS WHEN THE OWNER SAID. "RUNNING CONDITION" ACTUALLY MEANT IT RAN ABOUT TWO YEARS AGO WHEN HE LAST STARTED IT. THIS SOUNDED A BIT DISAPPOINTING, HOWEVER HE TRIED TO REASSURE ME IF I CLEANED THE FUEL LINE IT SHOULD START. WE'LL SEE. I WAS NOT ABLE TO GET VERY GOOD PICTURES BECAUSE THEY WERE TAKEN WITH MY CELL PHONE CAMERA. LEFT SIDE: FRONT: REAR: BEST ANGLE I COULD GET FROM THE RIFGT SIDE: FEEL FREE TO LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK, THANKS MARK.

Not a pretty setting but $200 is a bargain and it looks like it is all there. Not sure where you stand on the deal but there is a lot of tractor there. It looks like the tires hold air which will help in moving it. You apparently will need a battery and some fuel to try to start it. You might try putting some directly down the carburetor to see if it will fire. If it will run it will be easy to move and then clean up. The old Kohlers were good engines and the engine was protected by the hood so there is a good chance it will light off and run. The weathered paint will clean up with some WD40 to make it look a lot better. Looks to be a diamond in the ruff as they say.

Well I picked up the 633 today and was very pleased with it once I seen it in person. The engine has good compression and the transmission rolls smoothly and shifts into all the gears as it should. I may just wind up cleaning it all up and restoring it, but first things first I need to get some decent rubber on it so I can push it around my shop and get the engine running. I can't see anything that is missing other than the recoil starter. All of the mowing deck components are there. It looks like a front hang arm separated from the lift plate for the mowing deck and that's when it was parked and left for dead. Other than the way it looks I think it is a pretty good tractor and will be a worth while project. All of the metal is nice and so is the fuel tank. The seller even threw in a complete K321A engine he had in his garage that he just wanted to get out of there. It has good compression and spark. I imagine it will run fairly easy. The starter generator works good. All in all it was a good score today. Here are some pictures of today's loot.

What we thought might look cool looked cooler before we put the rims back on the tractor, so its back to black! Left the white walls, we don't mind em too much.

Here are 3 PDFs. I have included Motion Industries catalog numbers and the size of the bearings in each attachment. If you click on this link, it will bring up Motion Industries web site...type in their catalog number for the bearing or seal that you are looking for. It will give dimensions, a picture and an approximate price. You can also order online. Most of these bearings are also available from your TORO dealer and NAPA. Hope this helps... https://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/productCatalogSearch.jsp The 1st PDF is the WH # 5003 and 5010 RJ and 3 piece suburban transmissions. The 2nd PDF is the 3 and 4 speeds...WH # 5007, 5025, 5046, 5048, 5049, and 5053 transmissions. The 3rd PDF is the 6 and 8 speeds...WH # 5086, 5073, 5091, 103907, 103916, and 103918 transmissions. 1. UNI DRIVE TRANS 1.pdf 2. UNI DRIVE TRANS 2.pdf 3. UNI DRIVE TRANS 3.pdf Bearings and seals for a #5058 bevel gear transmission. differential carriage bearing (2) WH #1533 From Lowell outer axle bearing (2) WH #1526...KOYO #B-1816 outer axle seals (2) WH #1213...SKF #11050 mushroom gear rh WH#1532...KOYO #M-16121 mushroom gear lh WH#1530....KOYO #B-1612 seal brakeshaft WH#1232.....SKF #9815 cluster gear shaft bearing (2) WH#1529.....KOYO #M-12121 input shaft WH#1508 (1)...KOYO #B-1212 input shaft seal WH#1303....SKF #7410 spline shaft bearing WH#1531...KOYO M-10121 case gasket...#3912 Here ya go...KOYO is the same Torrington numbers. 5/8" input shaft seal 103916 transmission WH # 100442 = Timken 340387 = very similar to original seal. (SKF/CR 6105)

I bought my first round hood I think its a 753 with sickle bar a front wheihgt orginal wheel horse and an plow here are pics in two weeks he will in my possession

Last night I went to see my 75 year old neighbor whom I knew had a nice push blade for a Wheel Horse. I was hoping he would sell it to me because i was pretty sure he had no need for it, and I could put it to some good use. While we were sitting by the fire talking about Good Moonshine and Bad Women, he happened to mention to me he thought he had a Wheel Horse sitting in the barn, and instructed me to go look and see if it was still there. So with Maglight in hand I walked out to the barn in a light drizzling rain. I entered the barn and lo and behold sure enough there in all its dusty glory sat a 1980's model Wheel Horse, and that in itself was good. But upon close inspection I discovered it was not just any old Wheel Horse, it was one just like I have been searching for over the past two years. The Wheel Horse right n front of me, and only one mile from my house was a Kohler K-341 powered 416-8! After a few minutes I was able to regain my composure, I studied this newly found treasure, and decided right then and there I needed to give it a new home. I then left and went to my place and tried to get some sleep without thinking non-stop about what I had just found. Today during my lunch minute I went to see my friend and with the blessing of his son (who is also a dear friend) we struck a deal on the 416, the push blade, and a 42" SD mowing deck. I brought the blade and deck home tonight. The 416 is still under roof waiting for me to pick it up this Saturday. Here is a pic off the blade and deck, and a sneak preview of the 416. I need you guys to tell me what year model you think this is. Any and all feedack is appreciated. Thank you. Van

Unable to find a drive belt guard for my 71 800 Special, I decided to alter a guard from one of the other Wheel Horse tractors and modify it to fit the 800 Special. This reworked guard not only protects my leg from a possible injury, but also I found that by keeping the fastener holes in the same location as the original guard, would mean that the belt guides would also be in the correct location to properly feed the belt to the clutch. I made a video if anyone wants to see how I modified the guard. This part one, part two will be available tomorrow. http://youtu.be/E3C-KQJavGc

Well Mark..........things got real quiet after the pics were posted. If you don't have 200 dollars to blow, don't blow it! My 2 cents!

And my 701, also electric start. ???

and then there is the "702", its electric start. just another exception to the rule.

My 653, the five designates it's electric start.

New myself and from what gather from information her that middle digit appears to deal with starter type, but don't really know for certain.

From page 54 of "Straight from the Horses Mouth . . .the Wheel Horse Story" first edition, by Mike Martino", * For the 1960's Wheel Horse models, for the center number: 0 = manual start 5 = Electric Start 6 = six speed 7 = Wheel-a-Matic, ( as always there were exceptions, like the 633 and Lawn Ranger models ). + And as you know; the first number was horsepower and the last number was for the year. * And remember, the new 3rd Edition should be out and available next June, probably at the big Wheel Horse show in Pennsylvania, June. 21, 22.

Happy birthday there Camping Neighbor! Have a great day Brian!!

Hope you had a nice bday Brian !

Hey Brian :banana-explosion:

520H D250 D200 C195 420LSE I'd give my 312H to my wife :)

SUBURBANS & RJ 58/59 TRANSMISSION CROSS OVER CHART FOR WH #5003 and #5010 TRANSMISSIONS DESCRIPTION..............................................................WH #......................VENDOR..........QUANTITY...........SIZE BRONZE BEARING (AXLE)..........................................1503.......................CB-1618-12..........2..................1" X 1 1/8" X 1 1/2" BRONZE BEARING (DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING)..........1517.......................CB-2224-14..........2..................1 3/8" X 1 1/2" X 1 7/16" INPUT SHAFT & OUT END OF BRAKE SHAFT.............1519........................S8K ground..........4..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 5/16" CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT & 11/44 GEAR BASE............1502........................NICE 412-35........3..................3/4" X 1 5/8" X 3/8" INPUT GEAR NEEDLE BEARING.................................1518........................B-108...................1..................5/8" X 15/16" X 1/2" BRONZE BEARINGS (CLUSTER GEAR SHAFT............1504.......................EP-1214-12..........2..................3/4" X 7/8" X 3/4" BRAKE SHAFT (NEEDLE) IF YOU HAVE THIS............1508.......................B-1212.................1..................3/4" X 1" X 3/4" SEALS AXLE (FROM TORO ONLY)..(CAP)...................1257.......................83-2840...............2 SEALS INPUT SHAFT & BRAKE SHAFT (BALL BRNG)..1234......................741643 timken......2 SEAL BRAKE SHAFT (IF NEEDLE BRNG).....................1303......................7410 skf................1

HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRIAN.....have a great day mate...say hi to Jo. :happy-jumpeveryone: :happy-jumpeveryone:

Happy b day :occasion-cake:

Happy birthday! :occasion-cake:

Hope you have a wonderful day, Happy Birthday!!!

Happy Birthday Brian! You young man, you.... :happy-jumpeveryone:

:occasion-birthdaymulticolor:

In no order. RJ35 RJ58 701 C160 One of Bob's articulated models.

happy birthday brian, have a great day!

Double nickles!!! You don't look a week over 54!

HAPPY :eusa-whistle:BIRTHDAY BRIAN TO :eusa-whistle:YOU :eusa-whistle:

great thread steve. im thinking of doing my second trans fairly soon and you just got me a whole lot more interested in getting on with it. i like the test bench you rigged up, great idea. these unidrives are a good trans to get into, not so much work that they become overwhelming, but just enough of a challenge that it feels like a real achievement to get it back together and listen to that nice quiet trans (hopefully) doing its thing....... i think im going to smooth and powdercoat the inside on my next one as well as doing the outside, just to be different......

Another great thread Steve, Thanks. :eusa-clap:

Steve, I have your business cards ready... mm, that hairdo looks a bit familiar. Do you smoke a pipe? Another great job buddy! :thumbs:

The best part of that video is the fact that he will always remember racing tractors with his dad!

I don't think that my 701 needs transmission work, but if it does, you have taken a lot of work out of the "thinking" part of the job. Thanks Steve for another concise tutorial. :thumbs:

And just like that John takes the thread straight into the gutter!!!!!! LOL The cars thing I get but woman???? I got one and thats more than I can handle!!!! I don't know how the Polygamists do it!!!!!!....LOL

The answer is 2 If I had unlimited funds and ample room I would be collecting cars and women.

Well... that's a loaded question. How do you want to qualify it? By who was in charge during manufacturing? Pond/Wheel Horse Products, Inc. AMC Munn Investment Group Toro Do you want to include export only models, or models made only overseas? Do you want to include Toro branded tractors that use the Wheel Horse name? (Like the 260 series?) Like Gerry said... do you want to include rear engine riders? (In that respect... do REO models count since they were "REO by Wheel Horse"? What about the "Work Horse" models? I know... I know.... shut up... right? :D

Put the hundred bucks out. You have a nice project Horse. Reminds me of one of the 1st I owned. Go get 'em! Looks like the Horse in your rear view mirror. Geeze, haven't we all been there! :-)

This started life as a 633 but was incomplete and missing the correct engine, so I built it to use, now has a 8hp with a 8 speed and hyd lift.

As all have said, the price is in a decent range. It's what you're willing to spend, and get out of it. I'm pretty sure the points/cond. are the same for the bigger of the range of K-series motors. I won't harp on you parting it out but if you do...just give the RS members here first crack, and be reasonable. This is the only hobby I've ever gotten into that can pay for itself. (No way to do that w/o parting something out along the way). Good luck either way.

Here is a pic of a 633 I recently picked up via a block buster deal with Charles. I'm working on getting it up and going, hopefully real soon. This old girl is gonna be left in her old party dress, and believe me she's done some parting in her time! She is gonna be the main snow machine, (unless I gotta bust out the 520) log splitter hauler and firewood hauler. Shoot, she even came with a nice original mower deck, maybe she'll even do some trimmin around the homestead. The most fun for me is takin that very first ride on a tractor after I've brought it back from the dead. Ya can't beat that feeling. Once she is running I'll find an original pan seat for her and call it DONE.

and can anybody makes a vid from a 8 speed transmission

Yeah, for $100...I'd be leaving the house right now.

I didn't take pictures of the machined 1" spindle (sleeve) as it is the same picture as the web site at http://www.p.f.engin....com/photo.html . Just scroll down to the work ascribed to Doug H. I got the idea from Don1977's pictures I ran across on an earlier search. I cut the original 8.5" Northern spindle down to 4.75" in length for my application as I needed to ensure I kept enough room so the hub grease seal would not to hit the welded washer on the original splindle. My guess is that the length of WH spindles vary by model so you'd have to use your own judement on the proper sleeve length for your application. I carefully spot welded the end of the sleeve to the spindle so I could reverse it if I needed to. If I have an issue with the spot weld breaking, I'll cross drill the sleeves like Don1977did and weld them solid to the spindles. I thought about using 3/4" sealed ball bearings in the hubs like dbartlett1958 did instead of the tapered rollers that came with them, but I didn't want to spend more $$ for bearings and I would have had to weld up and refinish my original spindles where they appear to have gone years without grease. Finally, the steering. I used 8 x 3.75 rims - same as original. The new hub/tire assembly sits about a 1/4" wider per side giving me a 1/2" wider track. The turning radius might be slightly wider but nothing hits or rubs.

I did something similar to my 416, but I found a set of hubs with 3/4 bearings that slip right over the original front spindles. The wheels are a 4 on 4 standard trailer wheel. Tires are 165/65 x 8. The hub is by Azusa manufacturing, part #2296

You need to start up a TV show simular to " Overhaulin" it's where they steal someones car and completly restore it in a week for them. This is the show with Chip Foose! By the way I can leave my shed unlock any time you might want to try this! A job well done! Denver