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Sorry you had to get cold Ryan. Did ya see anything? I Bow hunt so I got mine a few weeks ago while it was still nice out. I hope you got the "H" running and drained. You will miss this energizing weather if you go down to the swamp land. Plus, I don't ever remember a hurricane coming ashore here. We didn't get enough snow to plow but it sure looked pretty. Craig, sorry no pics. It was too darn cold to run back to the house to get a camera. The 165 is running once again (loose wire) and now has its winter oil change and greasing and is tucked away for its long winter nap as well. Ma came home about 5:00 pm and said, "You been out here all day"? "YUP", I said. I made all the tools get back in their places in the tool boxes ( I know they will sneak out again, when I leave). But for now, its all cleaned up. I even cleaned up the benches and put the torches and welders away. After all of that, I put the F-250 in (it blew a rear brake line). But, I didn't start on that. It was still nice and warm in there and the Busch lights started calling so I had to answer. I can definitely see this happening again on Saturday. :orcs-cheers:

The weather here in CT this weekend was great to get a few of them out and ready for the winter and of coarse my helper had hers out also.

One of my favorite old pics - but still have the tractor and blower, ready for the snow.

Picked up this old 520H in Ohio. She was pretty rough. The plan was to clean up and make a mini loader to use around the yard. I have a D series loader that works pretty well but it is just too big. After a bath, tuning, some sand blast and paint, It started to look good. Installed a Matt860 Hydro pedal kit, upgraded the front axles to 1", new tries, weights, and used plans from PF engineering as the starting point for the loader. I modified the plan to have more bucket roll back when in the lower positon. (This does sacrifice the dump side at the raised position), I found a happy medium between the two without fancy linkage. I still have some fine tuning, the hydraulics are way too fast, at least on the boom lower. Looking into a flow control now. Thanks for looking, Joe

What the heck, lose the other fin, looked alittle over built anyway. But thats not the worse part, I had an uncle who fell into a lens grinding machine and made a spectacle of himself.

For the record Mr. Craig, my Burban is the Anti-Rat. Now put that in yer pipe n smoke it.

Vernon Dalhart, I suppose. Wreck of the Old 97.

If you are rebuilding your snow thrower, many models from the 60's, 70's and 80's, use the same bearings for the chain drive shaft. ST-323, 6-0200, 6-0201, 6-0202, 6-6212, 6-6213, 6-6214, 6-6215, 6-42ST01, 66-42ST01, 76-42ST01, 86-42ST01, 86-48ST01, 98-42ST01, 06-37SB01, 06-37SX01, 06-42ST01, 06-42ST02, 06-42ST03, 06-42ST04, 06-42SY01, 06-42SY02 and others. The bearing part numbers are 107743, 100908, 101702, 101781, or 1968. If you have checked, you probably found that replacement bearings from Toro cost you around $60.00 each. These are the bearings that are inserted into the 3-bolt flanges that hold the shaft on either end. They look like this: The inside diameter is 3/4", and the outside diameter of the widest part of the outside is 52mm or 2-1/32" +/-. This is called an insert bearing, and the outer housing is curved so that when inserted into the flange, it's allowed to self-center. Here it is in the flange To replace both of these bearings will cost at least $100 with shipping if you buy them from Toro. If you search for this bearing online, you will find that a 3/4" inside diameter insert bearing is available, but with an outside diameter of only 47mm, or a little under 1-7/8", which is too small to properly fit into the flange. Here is my solution. I purchased insert bearings with a 7/8" inside diameter. This bearing has the proper outside diameter of 52mm. I also purchased bronze bushings with a 3/4" ID, and a 7/8" OD. I removed the 1/4-28 x 1/4" set screws, and pressed the bushing into the new bearing. Then I drilled and tapped the bushing, and inserted two new 1/4-28 x 5/16" set screws. My total cost for two new bearings, which now is a perfect fit for the flange, was $30.00 which included shipping. On my snow thrower, the outer bearing (closest to the chain) was attached to the shaft with a 1/4" roll pin. Since these bearings only come with set screws, I rotated the shaft so that the set screws avoided the holes in the shaft. There is really no need for a roll pin at that location. 7/8" Insert bearings - UC205-14, $5.63, Bearingson.com 3/4" x 7/8" x 1-1/4" SAE 863 Bronze Sleeve Bearings, #2868T172, $2.51, McMaster & Carr 1/4-28 x 5/16" Black Alloy Steel, Cup Point Set screws, $.11 each, McMaster & Carr All the prices are plus shipping. Hope this helps someone to get their snow thrower running quietly and smoothly again without having to spend an arm and a leg on Toro bearings.

Well this is looking a lot like Ken's custom Suburban (not near as pretty tho). Once my son (Brennan who is 5 years old) saw Cole's (Ken's Custom Burban) he has been asking me to build him a "hot rod". So.... here is the start. She is a strong runner and I may only paint the wheels. I think they will end up having black wheels and leaving the tractor paint as is... Brennan rat 1.bmp Brennan rat 2.bmp brennan rat 3.bmp

Hi I'm trying to date an early Wheel Horse pond rs-83 http://s1142.photobu.../n613/thedebma/ The magneto is WICO model y, spec, XH1995 Ser # 946874, impulse range 29 Engine Mfg# Y-62 This tractor came from the original owner that was 98, he used it until he was 97. His family wanted him to sell it because he was having trouble getting around. He was a great guy, this was his pride and joy. I purchased it 3 years ago. The first picture is of the original owner, he died 4 months after he sold it to me. His family sent me a brochure they found in the house when they were cleaning it out after he passed away. I don't know when/how he got it. The hood on mine has a pipe coming from it that isn't in the ad. He told me it was a Demo model that the dealer had it before they could be ordered? I'm not sure exactly how that worked. . (Picture 2) He told me he bought it around 1949? I'm not sure if he added the hood later or not.

HAHAHA Craig, thats funny! But you ain't seen my Son-In-Law yet. He's been lifting truck motors for 20years and built like a bulldozer! That boy has a butt that can hold down a whole team of Wheel Horses. He could drive that 312-8 around a skid pad till it pulls 1G and not slide off the seat!

:omg: You can stop cleaning now...at this point, SIL will need to mount chains on his butt to stay in that seat. :scared-eek:

browns and Cowboys???? I agree,I could see the Browns pulling it off. BUT,if you were talking the Bears ...there would be NO question. :handgestures-thumbupright:As far as Romo goes... please don't .

The Brownies get to play the Cowpukes. They might actually win. Romo is due for another Cutleresqe 4 INT game. Game is in Jerruh's house home of that obnoxious P.A. announcer. "FIRST DOWN COWBOYS!!" Followed by "Romo's pass intercepted by.......... :)

There is another thread going on about balance gears....toss them out is the consensus....so the engine is a little out of balance....never really know it. Now a flywheel has a fin broke and the engine will jump off the frame..... Thought I would just bring this up......

Well, let me tell you. I disassembled my K161 from my 701, and took the block, piston, crankshaft, and valves to the machine shop to have everything spec'd. This engine has never been serviced internally. All parts are original. The verdict: The shop owner recommended a simple ball-hone to the cylinder, new rings, and polishing the crankshaft journal. In other words, after 50 years of use, a simple shave and a haircut, and it's good to go. Another interesting thing that he said. After rebuilding literally 100's of K-Series engines, he is absolutely convinced that these engines should be lubricated with straight 30W oil only. In dynomometer tests, he found a discernible reduction in power using multi-viscosity oils. He is not sure what to attributes that to, but straight 30W had no such loss. He also feels that 30W lubricates better and offers more overall protection against premature wear. I did not ask about synthetics. Interesting food for thought and discussion.

Ya know were not talking about a expensive or hard to change part. I just don't understand the just use it mentality. Theres no way I'd use a broken flywheel or repair one.

Nate, is that your local branch of the Ct. DOT you have there on premises?

One fin is not going to throw the balance off that much, it looks to be a clean break and it doesn't sound as if the flywheel fell off the Empire State biulding. So long as there are no cracks or stress fractures in the key way it can be re-used.

Good Morning all. Its Monday morning 7:10 am (cst) and my dispatcher just called and put me on hold :greetings-clappingyellow: . Ma has to go to town and do her Eagles chores and then she is off to school. I am all alone today! On Saturday it got up to 68 degrees here and yesterday the bottom fell out of the thermometer. So today? Its too cold to pour concrete outside and everyone cancelled. I just lit the wood furnace in the Gerudge and in about an hour it will be perfect in there. On Saturday I did all the outside work. I got all the tractors ready for winter sleeping time, except the 165(it wouldn't start). It got a free Bobcat ride to the garage. So, guess who gets warm wood fire garage heat wrenching time :banana-wrench: ? ME, thats who.... After the tractor was in the garage, I dropped the forks off the Bobcat and on went the plow. And now its snowing . Is it my birthday? Christmas? All my presents at once? I hope you all have as good a day as I will....... Pat

NOW this is where the fun begins!!! In this corner we have Jumpin Jimmi' for Ohio State and in the other corner we have No buddy no more statistics than me the ever luving Dukester from Niles (Michigan fan). Wait a minute this match isn't until next week. Sorry guys your going to have to wait a week. Nah, what the heck, Have at boys let the games begin!!!

I think a set of tri ribs would be best myself.

Would love to have a 418!!! I've driven farther for less... :roll:

Hello all. I'm back and here is the latest configeration of the ole Wheel Horse. Enjoy!

i agree letting it idle a minute or two just to let it burn the fuel in the cylinder(16hp has a big bore to completely burn all the fuel) or you can just get ready look at the neighbors and smile.

Sorry about that I thought I was inserting the photos, not linking them. Here they are again. Old bearing New Bearing Lube Hole on New Bearing. Wyatt

On Saturday I was deer hunting in a t-shirt and my orange vest since it was in the 70's and Sunday I had to bundle up and freeze while I sat in my deer stand than I got home and remembered it was supposed to get down to 18 degrees and the Farmall H hadn't been winterized yet due to a leaking radiator so about 8pm I was trying to start it with no luck I needed to jump start it to get it to the garage than I went in the house to catch some football and fell asleep until 2am I woke up and remembered that I needed to get the wood stove fired up so tractor wouldn't freeze up needless to say I was wide awake after being out in the cold wind. Can't wait to move to Florida Hopefully the wife doesn't change her mind.

Horrendous call???...I thought that was the best call of the season The look on McCarthys face was PRICELESS No I am not a big Vikings fan I quit watching them after they picked up that washed up old quarterback from the Packers I still wish they would have not gotten their tax payer funded stadium and left Minnesota. I cheer for the team that is playing the Pack so I guess I will be a Lions, Giants, Vikings, Bears, Titans fan for the rest of the season.

REAL rats are all about that. :banana-rock:

Yep. Initially. just save 'em as a .jpg file instead of .bmp...then they'll upload here no problems. I'm thinking Steve, this one might even be cooler than Kens.

Looks like he was born with that lean. Priceless!

It's as though it was intentionally designed to be the sacrificial part ~ instead of something more expensive breaking and ultimately causing more damage and/or immobilizing the tractor. :confusion-shrug:

I got the blower on my 312-8, and filled the tires with RV antifreeze yesterday. I have chains to go on but may wait awhile for that. steve

Let it snow,let it snow .............. The blower is on the C-120 The blade is on the Yammy The wood is in The chimney is cleaned

Rita Hayworth: http://www.flixxy.co...tm#.UKBmJeTAfrI

At the risk of being stoned (which I believe is a bible term for "people ain't gonna like what yer say'in") I'm an MF fan because they make make a rock solid man look'in tractor worthy of any restoration or beating around just because they are cool. I personally love the giant sized farm editions that look like that would kick a JD in the a$$ on a bad day ( I love this pic because I guessing the guy at the helm is thinking the same thing) . Exhibit #1: Exhibit #2:

here is my 953 all ready for the snow

By the way, you remove it the opposite, with the lift all the way up, release the lever then lower the deck, otherwise you may catch your hand or foot in the crash.

When you slide the deck under the tractor, attach the lift bar and (with a hydro it's easier) lift the deck with the attachment lift. Carefully ensure that the v groove on the mounting bar engages the shaft on the attach-a-matic. Continue lifting until both sides are engaged in the attach-a-matic and close the latch. I would suspect that if the lift isn't lifting the deck fully, you will need to adjust the lift so it raises the deck fully. Proper adjustment is when the pads on the mower deck just touch the floor boards when fully raised. If they do not you need to adjust the lift so that occurs. Hope I explained okay? TT beat me to it again!

Once the deck is under the tractor and the pin on the "T bar" is in the slot of the deck carriage, raise the deck slowly with the attachment lift lever (manual of hydraulic) while carefully guiding the front hitch bar of the deck into the slots of the hitch mounted on the tractor frame. Once the deck is fully raised / locked in the "up" position, shake the deck or wiggle it side to side until the hitch can be latched.