Leaderboard

the 71 bronco has push-pull throtle & choke cables , the 72 bronco has up & down throtle & choke controls, check the hood 71s some had a racing stripe the same colors as the hood decals. the differences between cs & broncos are the cs use the later tatch-a- matic with forward mule-drive. but these are very easy to re fit to these tractors. they are my favorite tractor & i will post pictures of my 72 bronco soon. you picked up a nice unit & i hope you enjoy it. Jay

I have noticed the idea here seems to be only 2 choices...Rattle Cans or Powder Coat... There are a whole lot of options in between and above! A quality tractor paint can be sprayed from an inexpensive gun which will leave a much better finish, be decades more durable and even less expensive than rattle cans and a fraction of the cost of PC.

Picked up two Lawn Rangers, one Lawn Ranger Plow, and this Bronco 14 yesterday as a package deal. Charged the battery, checked fluids, cleaned spark plug, and shot a little gas in the carburetor....away she went. Will start cleaning tomorrow and get better pictures.

Before anyone gets too carried away with making these things, you can buy one from your Toro dealer for about $18. A couple of my tractors have homemade pins in them, but I think they probably cost me that much to make them if you take into account the cost of the lathe , the bandsaw, the welder, the 3/4" round bar, the 3/16" falt bar, the argon for the welder and the electricity to run the machines. You'll pay more than that for a drive belt. I actually dont think its a very good arrangement either, the forward-most hole in the frame that the pin locates in is almost always flogged out to some degree, so the pin flexes as you drive your tractor around causing the plate to break on the back of the pin. The earlier system (pre 1963) with the 5/8" bolt seems to be a much better idea to me, at least you can tighten the thing up a little. On my 1276 that I'm playing around at the moment I am using a 3/4" shoulder bolt as an axle pivot. I'm hoping to find an arrangement I like better than the OEM set-up.

I like it, hopefully you actually keep this one I like the look with the rounded fenders.

Although I have my wheels powder coated, I paint my tractor with a single-stage acrylic urethane automotive paint from PPG. The finish is durable, and it has the high gloss that I like for my show horses. Total cost to paint my Commando 8 was under $200.00

I find it very hard to believe that oil will stay the same temperature, regardless of the engine operating temperature. Brian Miller will have to prove that to me.

Hmm, I need to do some negotiating with my powder coat guy or move with my hobby to indiana. :scratchead:

I have a cultivator just like that one, only has 5 drag arms instead of 6 like yours. I was told when I purchased it, that it was a wheel horse brand but no ID tag could be found. I am bead blasting , priming and painting mine at this time. Going to take it to Scotts meet n greet in Oct. if any one is interested in it. Thank.

Wow I guess it is that time of the week again to post some wrong picks! Well here is hoping to a much better showing. I need to really get back in the game! NORTHERN IOWA AT IOWA .....IOWA MASSACHUSETTS AT MICHIGAN.....MICHIGAN NOTRE DAME AT MICHIGAN ST.....MICHIGAN STATE. WESTERN MICHIGAN AT MINNESOTA.....MINNESOTA ARKANSAS ST. AT NEBRASKA.....NEBRASKA. BOSTON COLLEGE AT NORTHWESTERN.....BOSTON COLLEGE CHARLESTON SOUTHERN AT ILLINOIS.....ILLINOIS BALL ST. AT INDIANA.....INDIANA CALIFORNIA AT OHIO ST......OHIO ST. NAVY AT PENN ST......NAVY EASTERN MICHIGAN AT PURDUE.....PURDUE UTAH ST. AT WISCONSIN.....WISCONSIN

Florence And The Machine - Dog Days Are Over: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNNrGbs2GIo

I had 2 1276 hydro.s here like that Kelly. Big axles and that style tow valve on them both.

it can be done without removing the engine mount blocks. wedge the engine plate up off the frame after removing the center bolts on the mounts. i did the fronts first and then the backs. i guess you could do them all at once, but i felt better still having the motor held in place a little while working on them. i did them on my c125 after painting and assembling everything and managed to not scratch or damage the paint. it was easy enough to do..... oh, i thought about doing it on the cheap, trying to fix the old ones, or finding alternative mounts, but in the end it was just easier to purchase them new. i got them for $20 something each, so even with tax was still under $90. and they work exactly as they should work......

Looks like a decent tractor....even if it is a Joo, Joooohn...Deeeeee....John Deere! There, I said it!

Although that does sound like fun and could present the type of limb-loss danger I like, I would have to think just removing the cylinder head and inspecting would be a bit easier. -Mark-

Well I ( and my 8 yr old daughter) tried the aluminum foil on rusty chrome ...well I'll be, it actually worked fairly well. I am posting 4 photos , the first two are the hubcaps before cleaning and the other two are after cleaning. Also I should mention that my daughter(did I mention she is 8) did one of them and I did the other. What a lil helper she is(sometimes) LOL. One other thing to add, we only spent about 10 - 15 min on each one and these have NO polish on them.

When it comes to timing it all depends on how rusty the metal is. I like to soak parts for 24 hours minimum no matter how rusty. So long as the e-tank's electrical leads are hooked up correctly you will not eat through your parts. Only the rust with be removed and attached to the outer rods. After pulling parts from the solution I wash off them in luke warm water while wire brushing off the black'n rust. I like to sand the parts next, some will say sand blasting is not needed, but the blasting process goes super fast now. Etch-prime and paint.

Thanks Guys! Mike Ill look at the bag they came in closer and see what it says. Ok here is a few more pics kinda going slow at it Useing as much SS hardware as I can and putting neverseeeze on all shafts for pullys and wheel hubs. Torqueing everything down like it should be. Heres some Pics and ck out the decals! Cheers ~Duke

also, one of the reasons we keep seeing WH's on CL or Fleabay is the Zero turn. they have been around for quite some years but slick TV commericals and away we go. I agree they cut fast and wide, so you can get back to the TV but it lacks the "tractor" style. I guess I'm a old school...like a new Camaro or my long gone 69 RS Camaro. no question about which I would want!