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Today: NEED TO COVER UP THE FLYWHEEL!!!!! Already had a few close calls and at some point there won't be any forgivness. Charlie

Decided to finish this thing so I can enjoy it a little more and then sell it to ZEEK. Still needs engine guard, electric cooling fan, different shifter and a wheelie bar. I'm afraid to try to launch it for the risk of it driving out from under me.... Here's a video of the beast running in the NEW SHOP!!!! It is only the side building to the BIG SHOP!!! 6000sq feet of man cave! Will get a video of it driving tomorrow! http://s393.photobucket.com/albums/pp19/desertkart340/wheel%20horse/?action=view&current=CF8B96F5-2CA8-474E-AEE6-2D37992D8361-2846-0000030FD639EAB1.mp4 Charlie

I followed a lead i got over the weekend and found a l157 lawn ranger that i have been looking for for my daughter. I plan on restoring it for her for here birthday. Heres hoping i get it done in time

It's a true nutroaster....That valvecover is a little close to...you know what..... It will do a quart of fuel in 20 mins of run time. Not too too bad but it is quite a guzzler for just a garden tractor. I need to dial in a couple little things and refine it some more and then it will be good to go.

That is a common problem I've ran in to working on these tractors, I cut some 3/4" bar stock to the right size and had a buddy machine the clip groove in them, then I made up a bunch of the tabs, I've been welding them together as I needed them.

Alright! I can now say with conviction...I do too know Jack. :)

Here she is. 1987 with 1605 Hours.

Yes it was complete with a tecky hh60 engine had it running and cutting grass in about 10 minutes after unloaded

powdercoat is much more durable, but if you want it to be pretty you can't do much prep work with powdercoat. Its pretty much however your metal is is how its coming back, just shinier. If its a worker, powdercoat is the way to go, but if you want it to be a show tractor you probably want to look into painting it with a spray can or taking it to a body shop. ~Jake

That looks like a brand new machine....Looks Good!

What you really need is a code expert for your area. Common sence points us to say 1/2" is fine, but sometimes the building inspector goes by the beat of his own drum and ignores even the local code. If you're getting it inspected, I'd ask him personally.

Hello RS people and special thanks to my brother here come movies i was with on denmark.... http://dl.dropbox.com/u/70643978/20120908_161308.mp4 http://dl.dropbox.com/u/70643978/20120908_164221.mp4 http://dl.dropbox.com/u/70643978/20120909_120942.mp4 http://dl.dropbox.com/u/70643978/20120909_123826.mp4 http://dl.dropbox.com/u/70643978/20120909_124006.mp4 i love it!!! oh.. that was ATV tire.. that is 25x10.5x12 at108 hehe.. other of peopler in denmark have biggers an me!! hehe

I'm really enjoying this thing, Frank. I don't have a manual yet and I'm ready for a snow plow just about anytime. I will have one by winter for sure. Hopefully it will actually snow this winter. I changed the oil in the engine and transmission and I have a new shifter boot on order. I think there was some water in the trans so I want to make sure that doesn't happen again. I'm pretty happy with it.

I second what Scott said.

I always find that there are pro's and cons with all this hub removal/woodruff key thing. I guess it comes down to whether you are are a glass half full kind of guy or a glass half empty... If the hub just falls off, then I always think "Oh crap the axle is worn and the bore in the hub is oversize, and its always going to keep coming loose on me" Whereas if the hub fights you every step of the way, at least you know there is a decent chance that the parts arent flogged out, and they'll be fine with a clean up and reassembly.

Really liked the jumper box too Charlie.

Wood Bleach You wont believe it. I gotta disagree with brother zeek, never use steel wool on chrome because it scratches the chrome use brass wool or something softer than the chrome. Here is a link How I do it. ~Duke

and that sums it up very well - we are all "restorers" of old iron and very, very rarely buyers of $10K tractors (new or used). We have sandblasted and E tanked away our voice and influence over the years and are no longer taken seriously when we ask anyone to produce an inexpensive. long lasting machine with great capabilities. Every feature asked for in the above posts already exists and is easily obtained on used Deere ,Ford, Kubota and Yanmar equipment. If you aren't willing to spend $8 - $10K for that type of equipment, you most likely do not REALLY need CUT capabilities. No pay - no play. And just wait until genetically engineered grass hits the market. Only having to cut your lawn twice a year will be a game changer. 312H - great topic you started - but I'm afraid the answer to what WH would look like is really quite simple - just like everyone else!! But in red. They all have that same "happy to be anywhere" look. One bright ray of hope exists for lawn enthusiast. The design engineers at SOI U are busy perfecting our new "Eco" line of lawn maintenance products. Once they get the bearing lube specs down, we give the girls scissors and we go to market ! Our marketing slogan - "If you smell gas - don't look at us!"

I have been buying auto dust covers for our 1054's and I figured out they would also work on the B-80's front wheels. This information may assist othe Red Square membes with finding a reasonably priced alternative to wheel caps and hub caps. On the 1054's they go on the bearing wheel from the inside demensions. On the B-80 they go on the outside just like the original plastic wheel cap/cover. I have founf that the 1.798 sized cover works great. I only had to grind down the weld bead on one wheel of the B-80 (the other went on fine) to have a new set of wheel caps. I have been buying a set of chrome cap/dust covers for less than $4.00 a pair. Here is a photo of my B-80 cap: Here is a close up: This photo shows a 1054 wheel with a regualr cap - but the chrome cap works fine on it:

A few years back I had a couple of E-tanks going at the same time about 5 ft from a workbench, was doing some grinding with a angle grinder. Couldn't figure out for a couple of minutes what the popping noise was, but almost every time a hot spark hit the surface of the tank there was a mini explosion. Changed the direction of the spark trail and turned off the chargers till I was through grinding. I do think if you had a way of storing the gas you could make quite a mess of you work area and more. Mike