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To my knowledge the Indy 500 special was a promotion tractor and was never used there, there are promo shots of one at the track but none showing it being used. I own one of the tractors that was used at the 68 Indy 500, I don't have documentation but it is the correct tractor, with the orig. white wall tires, I know of one more tractor that is the correct model with the white wall tires and I've seen two other sets of the tires one set is in the top of my barn, the other set sold on ebay about 2 years ago for good money. Mine has had hyd lift added and a PTO set up, the wrong seat and the stripes on the hood have been removed but in one or two spots you can see where they were. Close up of one of the tires pics from the 68 indy 500

Wow that brings new meaning to $h!t hitting the fan

On our trip to Gettysburg a few weeks ago, I made a stop to pick this up. I had been watching this on Craig's List for a few weeks prior and hemmed and hawed about pulling the trigger on it. When we decided to go to Gettysburg, it was a no brainer as it was right on the way. Called the seller to see what his bottom line was on it and we struck a deal. He had it taken all apart for me when I arrived as I was towing the camper and space was at a premium. I sanded, primed and painted all the parts. Replaced all the hardware and rebuilt the winch. I added anti-slip strips to afford traction and not mess up the paint. The ramps adjust in and out to accommodate different width tractors etc. There is a safety that locks it in place once it's at the top and keeps the load off the winch. With my little mechanics rolling seat I can actually sit underneath and work from below if I need to. I also plan on leaving a tractor up there for storage. I'm contemplating adding some square plating and wheels underneath so it can be mobile. Wish the winch was 110 vac but for for now running it off a 12 vdc car battery will do.

Here's what I did to reduce the grass blades from blowing up from under the tractor (312-8): That piece of rubber is just a $2 48" x 4" piece of kitchen kick-wall, cut to 3' and bolted to the back of the deck. The square holes are already there (the WH factory did offer a metal plate to solve this problem in the 80's, discontinued). And an underside shot. When I scrape and clean the deck: (1) Rust converter, (2) Aluminum primer, (3) White gloss paint (easy to see). The black you see is after the first use, I was in a hurry to use it. The blades are: "Gator Blades" on first and then the original regular blades, at 90º to each other. The rubber extension is only about 2.5" out, but it does make a big difference in directing the grass down quickly, I get no blow-up inside or on me while cutting even dry grass. This thin cheap rubber will last me about 50 hours of cutting, got it from a box store (Menards), better quality rubber would certainly last longer. Comparing a RD (Rear discharge) deck to a SD (Side) deck (a very dirty one). I prefer the RD for a nice cut, not having to think which side the chute is on or having to allow for the wind direction, but the RD is not effective in very long moist grass, the SD works much better for that. The dual blade (6 blades = 12 cutting edges) gives me a much finer and shorter pieces on the cut grass, which disappear quicker and reduce the clumps, plus I like the even distribution look of the cut grass thrown out.

Gotta have chrome hub caps, baby moons!

Not worth the money....for certain. Quite a sales pitch..."own a peice of history". Don't take this bait.

Well Steve that might be a good plan........someone has to be in the cellar after 2 weeks. I am happy to have claimed that spot! .500 isn't acceptable unless you are in baseball!!!!!!!!!!!

Can you imagine cleaning a chicken pen with Dukes chucker?

Best way to tell when it's time to take it out is by using a battery charger with an amp (or load of any kind) guage. If the sacrificial metal (the one you connect the + to) is in good shape, you'll notice a significant load on the charger. As the process runs it's course, you'll see that load fall off. In short- if you're starting with clean solution, good sacrificial parts, and a decent charger, you'll know when it's done all it's going to by the current load. When it gets down to nearly nothing, the process is finished. You can clean the sacrificial parts and run it again, but the load should remain constant at basically nothing. Like VinsRJ said, cleaning the blackened rusty goo off is important. I used "purple power" in my last e-tank's solution just to see what difference it would make. It suds up quite a bit, but the detergent's effect makes a huge difference in the amount of post-cleaning I have to do. When cleaning cast parts, it greatly reduces the amount of "flash rust" just because I'm able to clean and dry them faster. A pressure washer works very well too... I should probably clarify- You don't have to wait until this happens to be finished cleaning a part. In most cases, 18-24 hours is more than enough to clean exposed rust away. But when using the process to free up parts that are rusted on or together (such as the dreaded steering shaft to steering wheels, or roll pins, or any such thing), when the load falls to zero or close to it, you've done all you can do with an E-tank. So far, I've never had a stuck item that would not free up with the process.

well if anyone needs one to move dirt I have a few beater dirt blowers for sale B)

Bring it home first, figure it out later.

PSY - Gangnam Style: !

Sorry Kent but what Mike said........ Well that is just too funny! Kinda goes along with the gas usage thingy! ~Duke

Here are some photos of my dad plowing on a 1964 Wheel Horse 1054 with a Wheel Horse 12 inch plow made special for the 1054. Here are two videos:

try this download from the super Files section of RS. your deck looks like 42 inch

I don't blame you, he does nice work.

No, mounted tight together without a washer; there is enough extra threads on the spindle bolt to easily hold both (using the thiner 3/4" nut). The blades tend to stay at 90º very well on a nice lawn, but thick moist clumpy grass, or dirt mounds (from moles), may skew the blades, but even so it seems to still cut the same. I always put a little white grease on the threads when remounting the blades, (that "grass juice" is a caustic acid that becomes a glue under the deck), the grease sure makes the blades easy to remove, the rotational direction of the blades keeps the nut on tight, so no problems. Gator Blades cost about the same as regular blades, but are much much better, they are also called "commercial blades" (your local Auto Parts Stores, like NAPA, can order them for you, at a very fair/lower price than eBay, and you don't have to pay the $10 shipping, don't 'rush' special order them, have them come in with their regular weekly shipments). In fact, ask to see their "Power Equipment Products" catalog, they have lots of stuff for our tractors (deck wheels, belts, idlers, etc....,) & everything for Kohlers, ask and they may even give you last year's book for free, otherwise about $10, but free to look at in there. If you look at the blades on the new 'better quality' mowers being sold now, they come with these Gator Blades as standard equipment now. And, another suggestion, check with your local Tire Store, like Discount Tire, for your tractor tires, they have a thick catalog with a lot of tires from all manufacturers, much much more than Miller offers, of tires to fit our Wheel Horses, you'll find many full pages of them and they will let you look at that catalog. If these special order tires come in on their regular weekly delivery truck, no charge for shipping, and their prices seem very fair. If I prepay for these tires, my local DT gives me a 10-20% discount, and then will mount for about $5/tire (and their tubes are better quality than TSC, plus less expensive), I just take my WH in to them, like you would a car), they actually act like they love to work on a Wheel Horse. Glen

It's usually caused from abuse when using the dozer blade. You know when your moving snow and you just need to push a little further? You back up and give it a little bump (more like ramming it with all it's got). The extra force is tranfered from the blade to the transmission assembly and so on and so forth. The weakest link is the frame mount (be thankful that it's the weak link). Reinforcing this area seems like a great idea, IF (and I emphasize IF) the tractor is used as intended and not as a bulldozer. If it's continued use is abusive, guess what will beak next....

If this turns out right it will be my brother ( gwgdog66 ) pulling a harrow around our friends ropeing arena. I didn't get the camera out in time to get him with my new / old brinly 12" breaking plow. This is him on his pride and joy, a 1976 C 160-8, that he has had and freshined up years ago. He wheeled and dealed with our Uncle in the late 80's or early 90's to get this horse and it is an awesome machine to boot. It has been in our family for quite a while.

Spring delivery!

Images taken and shared with me by Russ MacNeil... Truck photographer.