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Its prolly not much but it will be fun to restore. I got it with a deck and extra rear wheels and tires. She runs like a champ! Not bad for less than a $100

Hey all on the Forum, Today I met Tom - tomwh1971, I didn't realize he only lives 25 minutes from me. He had a fender I was looking for and I went to pick it up. I found out during conversation that he is the gentleman who ended up with Max's tractor. He has memorial stickers on his truck, and is very passionate about helping raise the extra money in Max's name when Max fell short before he passed away. He brought up something that I had noticed myself, there are 6200 current members on Redsquare, 360 of which were on the site today alone. But yet only 120 or so of us have signed up and pledged $10 to Max's charity, even with the chance of winning the signed book. I was also one that hadn't pledged any money, times were tough, and I had other more important things that the money needed to go to. But one night a week ago I saw the link and clicked on it. I pledged my $10 even if it meant I couldn't eat lunch the next two days. I also went on to donate an additional amount of money, we all should do what we can. I know its $10, but it's ONLY $10. After a couple days you won't miss the money, but forever you will remember how you helped this boy finalize his dream. Lets have a big push before the Indiana show, that Tom will be attending, to show our support. Thanks John Chady

I have a '71 Raider 12 that I love and use constantly. I had the Kohler engine completely redone this summer, lots of new parts, etc. so it runs very strong.. but I have a large yard and could really use a bigger deck. What types / brands of decks will fit and how big can I / should I go with a 12 horse tractor? Thanks!

I live in the area too.

jack, i looked into this by searching the service bulletins i have. the only reference to what you have mentioned concerned the eaton transmission in the c series and not the sundstrand. it would be worth a look though to see if it makes any difference with the problem. ive been doing a little research and i think it maybe an acceleration valve issue, but im still looking into it. the bulletin concerning the cold oil level is below... WH61-90 #366 Eaton Transmission Oil Level.pdf thanks for your input....

it's not hard to put rings in, pull the engine out, that tractor may be one of the ones the oil pan is welded to the frame, remove the head, and oil pan if you didn't leave in the frame, in the bore will be carbon build up at the top you need to remove most or all of it, if you don't you could mess up the piston ring lands when removing the piston, take note of what way the rod is on the crank, and mark the rod cap so it goes back on the same way it came off, remove the piston and rod, be careful not to scratch the crank, now if your doing this on the cheap this is a bandaid and may not last a long time, figure out what size rings you need and get them coming, the engine may have been rebuilt at some time so you need to check the bore size, clean the piston up, take note on the rings how they are on the piston, I use a broken piece of ring to clean the ring groves out they need to be clean for the new rings to fit right, now cover the crank and make a plug to fit the bottom of the cyl. a cardboard circle, a plastic lid off a butter dish something to keep crud out of the bottom of the engine, you will need a hone to ruff up the cyl. most auto parts stores have them, there are 2 main styles the 3 blade/stone type and a dingle berry hone, it looks like a bottle brush with ball stones all over it, that style is pretty cheap and the easiest to use if you have never used one, I dip mine in a can of ATF and have it in my drill, you want to run it up and down the bore so it puts a cross hatch pattern in the bore, you want the pattern to have about a 30deg angle to it, X pattern this you will get by going up and down faster or slower, when you have that, clean the bore out good and wipe with a coat of motor oil, so no rust starts, with a clean piston and rod, carefully install the rings they will break, oh and for a cheap re-ring buy cast rings not moly rings cast will wear to a out of round bore faster, and I'm sure your bore is not round any more, do not line the ends of the rings up put the open ends on opposite sides of the piston, you will now need a ring compresor to compress the rings so the piston will slide in the bore, before putting the compressor on I dip the head of the piston just past the rings in oil, to aid in going in to the bore and sliding out of the compressor, remember what way the rod goes on the crank and install the piston, I use the handle of a rubber hammer to tap the piston in the bore, line the rod up and install the cap, there are specs for used rods, you will have to look up that info, there are other little tricks I do with out thinking about them, but you get the idea, this should get you started or not.

I feel like I read a number somewhere in this forum (from Wheel Horse) about 500 lbs... somebody else will surely know. I think it was related mostly to the safety aspects (going downhill w/ a load). I personally have towed more than that with the C-160 Auto... but the tranmission died shortly thereafter.... coincidence? (I don't know!) This was actually the main motivator for me buying the C-100 8-speed... hard to go wrong with {lubricated} metal on metal gears for heavy hauling. Cheers to you on the new business!

Well I drove a ways to pick this up yesterday. It was purchased off Ebay a couple weeks ago and I got it for the initial bid of $295, don't guess anyone else wanted it. I think I done pretty well.

It's a tractor, so it's an automatic winner. He's a little too small for it (he's only 2), but that just means that I get to ride it as he co-pilots for a year or two. I'm sure grandaddy will take him for some rides as well. I posted picts in the other post: Just need the belt guards and an exhaust cover. I think we have a couple Harley exhaust shields laying around to use for that. I'll get a picture of the hood progress this weekend.

you old romantic you. I bet she was amazed when you said to her ......Honey ive bought you a horse. she has a real nice tractor great find

Good job at finding your girl friend that tractor ! That's a sign of true love :eusa-think:

and that sums it up very well - we are all "restorers" of old iron and very, very rarely buyers of $10K tractors (new or used). We have sandblasted and E tanked away our voice and influence over the years and are no longer taken seriously when we ask anyone to produce an inexpensive. long lasting machine with great capabilities. Every feature asked for in the above posts already exists and is easily obtained on used Deere ,Ford, Kubota and Yanmar equipment. If you aren't willing to spend $8 - $10K for that type of equipment, you most likely do not REALLY need CUT capabilities. No pay - no play. And just wait until genetically engineered grass hits the market. Only having to cut your lawn twice a year will be a game changer. 312H - great topic you started - but I'm afraid the answer to what WH would look like is really quite simple - just like everyone else!! But in red. They all have that same "happy to be anywhere" look. One bright ray of hope exists for lawn enthusiast. The design engineers at SOI U are busy perfecting our new "Eco" line of lawn maintenance products. Once they get the bearing lube specs down, we give the girls scissors and we go to market ! Our marketing slogan - "If you smell gas - don't look at us!"

Happy Birthday Steve. Hope you have many more. You probably will if you stay out of trees.

OH, that's how you do it, note to self...get the wife a tractor. Pronto!

If you keep this up, they'll be shooting an episode of Horders about you pretty soon Jake.

That one doesn't look anything like my reel mower, but mine is a front mounted unit...so...it's hard tellin' not knowin'.

Squonk, maybe it was operator error. The way you're talking I am just waiting for mine to explode in a giant fireball! Kelly, nice find it looks barn fresh.

As promised, here is the pictorial on installing a new PTO needle bearing. As I stated, I don't have a press, so with common hand tools, a piece of all-thread, and few large washers and nuts, I will install the new bearing. Pictured below is my set up. PTO housing, new bearing, and tools. I had a piece of 5/16" all-thread, so that is what I used. The large washers are 1-3/4" diameter. I started by seating the bearing squarely into the hole. Then I placed one small washer and one large washer on the end of the all-thread with a nut already in place. The all-thread was passed through the housing and bearing where another large washer and a small washer were placed on top of the bearing. A nut was run down the all-thread and snugged against the washers. I centered everything and began to tighten. Once the bearing was flush with the surface, I removed the nut and washers. I found a combination of washers that equaled 9/32", and placed them on top of the bearing. I continued to turn the nut until they were flush. This pushed the bearing to a depth of 9/32" below the surface to allow enough room to install the 1/4" thick oil seal. Job complete.