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I've had a couple members ask about my lift that's on a couple other posts. I told them I would make a thread to show the build, so here goes. I had seen similar lifts on a snowmobile forum, but it didn't move. When you put the snowmobile on it, it was where it was until you finished. I wanted something more like a kid's wagon, that I could move around in the shop, or even roll outside to paint a tractor on. So with that in mind... I took some small 6-inch wheels and front axle from a junk mower. Here's the front axle I made up: Using 2-inch channel, I made the frame up: Like the snowmobile lift, I used two parallel racks. this was the first mock up: Then I made the "carrier", so it would fit any front-engine wheel horse. Almost all of these tractors are the same size between the foot rest bar and the tranny plate. That's where the carrier would need to attach. I wanted it to positively hold the tractor frame, so I could take a tractor down to the bare frame, or start assembly of one the same way. The carrier locks onto the frame with a modified mid hitch: All the pivots are on 3/4 hardened bolts. A little red paint, and here we are: I used a $ 20 trailer tongue lift from TSC, and used it to raise the racks. It pushes from the back and passes through the braces on the racks. I had originally planned on using an electric motor to turn the cylinder, but never found one with the torque to do it. Unloaded was fine, but with 500lbs on it, it just wasn't enough. So I made it manual, and made a "floating support" for the crank. I used a UV joint from a Honda 4-wheeler at the crank: I made a sliding brace to catch the racks at full up. It holds the racks up even if the jack breaks, and has to be pulled up to lower the tractor: And I made full up stops so I never could go past the "push" side of the jack: I also wanted to be able to steer this around, so I took the steering parts from the junk mower too: I made a "t" handle, but wanted to be able to tow this with another tractor too. Just pop the pin and the hitch is ready, or stow it for pushing by hand: So, use a set of ramps like this to drive a tractor on, and raise the tractor. Then remove the ramps and you're all set: It raises the tractor about 30 inches, which was just right. No more broken back from tedious stuff: With the frame locked in, even rocking the stand over on it's side won't let the tractor fall off. It is VERY stable. And that's it. It works great, and I wouldn't sell it for anything as long as I'm restoring tractors. Patents pending... Hehe

Well started with a carb and no power problem than had no spark i have had this C120 for twelve years when i bought it it was in great shape Town of portland Ct owened it for draging a chain link fence around the infield of the baseball field but since i have joined red square and was asking questions aboutmy other problems decided to re do tractor coming to gether slowly here are so pics if anyone knows what color silver they used for the pto handle and the belt retainer on the pto just got to order few things like decals, shifter boot and new seat cusions

I may be crazy but I planted 2 rows of spinach today. The soil was perfect for tilling yesterday so I tilled the gardens just to get a jump on things when planting time does get here. Today I found some spinach seed left over from last year so I figured what the heck, I'm not out anything if it doesn't come up. It's 66 degrees here today and the 10 day forecast shows 42 as the lowest night time temperature, most nights are supposed to be in the 50's with high 50's to low 70's for daytime highs. I think it will be fine. It's the earliest I've ever planted anything in the garden by at least a month, heck it's usually still frozen and covered with snow this time of year.. I probably won't plant anything else for a while, but weather this nice sure gives you the itch.

I got the bright idea I would take the RD deck off the fine 314-8 and mount my grader blade. I could not get the rigid link attached. I must have spent two hours wrestling with it. I couldn't get the top of the link into the lift bracket - same one that lifts the mower deck. I tried it in the same lift bracket that the clevis hitch goes - very easy to install, but wouldn't lift the grader blade. I also tried to get the chain and attachment of it off the lift bracket - there is a hitch pin that pulls straight down. The #$%@ pin wouldn't come out no matter how hard I pulled. After many busted knuckles, some blood, lots of cursing - I've called it a day before douse gas on the tractor and burn it to the ground! Anyone got an easy method to attached the grader blade rigid link to the tractor? Any help would be much appreciated. OFF MY SOAPBOX!!!! Thanks! Bill

Hey everyone,got the 401 out and cleaned up for the first time this year. Thought everyone might enjoy some pictures. Jake

HELLO DUKE, I HAVE A LATE 88 520H. MT LIGHT FLASHES ON TEST. SOME OF MY GAGES ARE IN DIFFERENT LOCATION. I GOT 175.00 IN MINE WITH 1185 HOURS AND 48" DECK. THE HYDRAULIC WAS NOT ADJUSTED RIGHT AND PULLED THE FRONT MOUNTS OUT OF DECK, IT IS REPAIRED NOW. SEND ME PM AND I WILL SEND YOU PICTURES OF MY DASH. DO ALL 520's HAVE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS IN FUSE BOX? BOWTIE IN OHIO

Definetly keep the 312-8. 8 speeds are much better for tilling than a hydro and 12 horsepower is more than enough to run a tiller. I till with a 308-8 and it does just fine, it's never lacked for power and sips gas. Put it in 1st low, wind it up and go.

Ever think about building a few of these to sell ? They look awesome ! Jack..

Just as I suspected. NO one knows governors because they run on voodoo magic! For what it's worth, I've adjusted, readjusted and adjusted again, and no matter what I do, I basically have either "idle" or "overspeed". I've just about come to the conclusion that the governor gear must be bad. That's great news, 'cause the one thing I've been wanting to do is take the motor off the tractor and tear it down for a third time.

That's really impressive!

Thanks for the compliments everyone. I'm a bit of a purist, so I'm disappointed that I couldn't find the "right" hardware, but a hitch that works is a good start. Here's a link to the ones that I found: Single shank swage balls

Got some parts back from the plating shop last week, it took four months to get them back but was well worth the wait. The hub caps and a few other parts I had chrome plated, the other parts are polished nickle. The hub caps had several dings and scratches and some were pitted, now they look new. Most of these parts will go on the "701" and the rest are for my "857".