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I built a hub puller a couple of weeks ago, which worked great (see below), but I thought I could improve upon it, so I fabbed up a new version, which has two advantages over the first one: It has a cavity for the hub spigot, so it can be bolted flat against the hub flange, which can add some rigidity to the flange, and it can be used with hubs that have been retrofitted with studs, as well as those that are still using lug bolts. Mine still has lug bolts, but I used a separate set of bolts and washers with the puller, rather than the lug bolts, in order to prevent any damage to the puller plate or to the tapered part of the lug bolts. The center bolt is longer than it needs to be, but that's what I had on hand. I put a dab of anti-seize on the center bolt threads. Previous version of hub puller: New version: Back of puller (I dressed the weld a bit, just for the heck of it): Front of puller:

I figured I should get in a ride while the getting is good because of the uncertain weather conditions nowadays. I used the Side x Side to pack roughly 6 '' of snow on the ground. The 418-A is my mowing tractor and it's nice to get behind the wheel with no mower deck and wind it up some. This was on Thursday after lunch.

Picked up an early Raider 12 just before Christmas. Seller said he had rebuilt the trans but it stopped moving while he was plowing snow and he thought he snapped the input shaft. That didn't sound quite right to me and I suspected the key for the drive pulley was a more likely suspect. We agreed on a price delivered. The tractor came with a 42" snow blade mounted, a 42" mower deck with only one small rust hole, and extra pair of rear wheels and tires and tire chains. He also threw in a Harbor Freight 20 Ton press. He dropped it off and while I was pushing it to the shed the left rear wheel and hub came off. I immediately thought that might be its mobility issue. I got the wheel back on and pushed it in the shed. I finally got to work on it today after work. I picked up a couple Woodruff keys and stuck one in, it also needed a battery. It starts easy, runs pretty good with no smoke or obnoxious noises AND it moves in all gears. It's seeping a little where the case halves meet and it has a catch going into reverse so I'll open it back up and take care of those items. The drive belt is in pretty rough shape too and when I put a load on it, it stopped moving until I let it sit for a minute for the belt to cool so I have a new one on the way. Plan is for this one to be my new mower and the blade will go on my old Raider 9 after an engine transplant. This is the seller's pic from the ad, not much to look at but it's all there and functional....

I ran into DJ this morning, and he even bought me lunch and a coffee! Thanks @hcminis, it was great to run into a familiar face after a 4 hour drive for some car parts!

Finished transaxle drain and refill on the 12hp-8 No Name today. New shifter boot, magnetic drain plug and swapped the 8.50’s for some 10.50’s on back. Oh yeah installed bolts/studs on back wheels. Made mounting the loaded Carlisle alot easier.

A buddy who is a scrapper called about this hood he picked up with some other scrap metal. Thankfully he called to see if we wanted it. I don't have a use for it but couldn't see letting it get crushed. Pretty straight, no latch or wiring.

When I got the 312-8, I searched for Wheel Horse forums. I picked this one & I'm glad I did! Lots of great folks here and there must be a couple hundred years of combined knowledge, I greatly appreciate all the help & guidance I am receiving. Thank you!

Here ya go EB ... I ain't gonna tell ya some bozo threw this one on the scrap pile at my old shop...

So as may of you know in September I bought a 1257. We fully rebuilt the transmission. I got a new ignition switch a few weeks ago and put that in. Then we got snow so it got pushed to the back. Today we finally brought it back in. Cleaned the points and it fired right up. More to come later today. IMG_1453.mov

Santa Claus dropped this set off for me, but I haven't had a chance to use it yet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FD2MGBZV/?coliid=I2OHFXC6N18XC2&colid=E9BKT8EPBLKD&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

January 10, 1899, The invention of the dry cell battery and miniature incandescent electric light bulbs made the first battery-powered flashlights possible. Patented by David Misell the first flashlight was powered by “D” batteries laid front to back in a paper tube with the light bulb and a rough brass reflector at the end. The company donated some of these devices to the New York City police, who responded well to them. Keep shining a beam of light into the history of this bright idea. If a flashlight malfunctions it is known as a @Sparky

Hey folks , I haven't been as active here as I once was ( apologies ) . I have been busy . This happened to me this week and I remembered there are "birders" on this forum . Last Wednesday while at work , myself and two coworkers were just shooting the breeze out in our drop lot when something caught our eyes . It was a seemingly injured bird hopping along the fence line. Birds of prey are very common in the city . They hunt the pigeons that nest nearby. We decided to call the SPCA and they forwarded us to the DEC. About 1/2 hour later a woman from the DEC shows up and she can't catch him. My 2 coworkers had left and I decided to help her as she was about to give up . She threw a blanket to me over the fence and told me what to do . I managed to toss the blanket over him and get ahold of both his feet .I carried the bundled injured little guy over to her Jeep and slid it into a pet carrier. He looked in pretty rough shape to my untrained eye . I gave the woman my info and asked if she would keep me updated. This afternoon I get a call . The bird was taken to our SPCA and is doing "quite well". She sent me a pic . He's about a 1 year old Coopers Hawk. He's gorgeous.

I’m not opposed to either the pincer or hammer style, but I’ve gone to the soldered on style of lug for the relatively few times I need to make new heavy cables. And, by the way, keep an eye out at tag and garage sales for jumper cables. A good set (heavy, flexible, stranded copper wire) can yield some great battery/starter cables.

About 2 years ago, I was informed that I had a cataract, and it was time i should start considering getting it taken care of. We'll, at the time that didn't really fit in with what all we had going on. Well, last year's eye exam showed a big degradation in my left eye. Last summer, I noticed that my short range depth preseption was off - the finish nails I drove to flush were actually standing about 1/4" proud. Bolts on machinery i was working on were farther away than where my eyes told me to put the wrench. I was having trouble getting a good sight picture of the pop can target when shooting my Daisy Red Ryder. Bunch of little things, but enough was enough. 3 weeks ago, I had my left (dominant) eye operated on, as it was the worst. Wonderful improvement! Yesterday, I had my right eye operated on. It is still dilated and not focusing quite right at reading range, but a noticable improvement in distance sight. The most impressive thing is how sharp and vivid the colors are now. If anybody out there is considering cataract surgery, I'll encourage you to go get it done. The procedure (outpatient) itself is a breeze, involving just enough knock out drugs to relax and enjoy the 'light show'. I think my reply to the "how are you doing?" question in recovery was "that was a pretty cool trip". Had a special lens installed yesterday that corrected an astigmatism. While discussing this with the surgeon pre-op, I asked him if the lens also had a .010" eyecrometer scale - he got a chuckle out of that one.

The other brothers story. Pretty cool history and always good reading.

I still like a 16 Oz hammer for framing. Going in tomorrow for a rebuild on my right hand eyeball tomorrow. Opted for the de-luxe replacement lens with astigmatism correction. If it turns out as well as the left eye rebuild, it will make my accuracy much better when using the 16 Oz framing hammer.

Small improvement: I made a very simple 'thrust bearing' for the end of the puller's center bolt. I bored a 5/16"+ hole in the end of the 3/4-16 grade 8 center bolt, squared off the end of the bolt, cut the threads off of a partially-threaded grade 8 5/16 bolt, and added two 5/16 SAE washers. If I wanted to get fancier, I could have cut a groove in the shank of the 5/16 bolt for a small O-ring to retain it in the center bolt, but I figure enough is enough. A dab of grease will hold the 5/16" bolt in the end of the center bolt while the puller is being set up, and a bit of grease or anti-seize or other EP lube (ZX1?) on and between the washers would be a good idea when using the puller.

I purchase a 20ft wheel horse hauler been busy putting electrical in the inside that I can run a generator for power so I can sleep in it and working on tie downs so I can secure my wheel horse tractors

I made a similar one that I considered marketing but the material cost and hours were high and I doubt that it would sell for the price I would need.

January 7, 1968, U.S. space probe Surveyor 7 was launched and, a few days later, made a soft landing on the Moon.

Started transaxle change after pressure washing all the garden dust off the 12hp no name. Going to let her drain overnight. New shifter boot, Engine oil and brake drum seal next on the list..

I never did care much for the look of the plastic seat pan/fenders, although this one is flawless no cracks or breaks. I put the wheels and tires of a 520 and I gotta say it makes the plastic look pretty good now. Lol!! I might keep it for a while this way before I throw a metal seat pan on it.

I'd like to add I'm one of those liars at the restaurant table ...

I'll chip in 82.

Not only is there a wealth of information available and freely given. There is also the friendly bantering and camaraderie. it's not unlike sitting around the liars table at the local restaurant. Good group and well run organization.

Some of us might bump that estimate up another hundred or so - individually!!

Prowling around somewhere or another I saw this seat mentioned. Looked like something I wanted to try so I bought one. Got it in the mail yesterday and I like it so much I ordered two more. At or just below freezing in the shop and the material feels reasonably soft and supple. Will it last? I have no idea. We will see what it does at 0° or below. On a low back versus high back seat I could go either way as far as looks. For a practical nature however, I prefer a low back seat. Two reasons: 1. It's easier for me to get on and off the tractor without the seat back being in the way. 2. I've said it before and I'll repeat it here. Your entire muscle and bone and tendon structure is literally, use it or lose it. One of the biggest reasons, if not THE biggest reason, that most of us experience injuries is because we have failed over the years to use our people chassis correctly. Engage. Your. Core. Muscles. As often as possible. I'm talking as close to 100% of the time as possible. Yes it takes training. Just do it. That's another reason why I prefer a low back seat. It forces me to use my core muscles to hold my body upright while driving. Here's some pics. This particular one I got off of Wally World but it looks like they're available from multiple sources. It was just under $54 shipped.

Installed some seat springs on the 73 12hp-8 today No Name. Robbed these off a 73 14hp-H No Name. Rob Peter to pay Paul . The 14hp-H is/was a running mochine when I drove it in the shed, smoked a little but ran and had strong Hydro.

Today I plowed off what my nephew didn't get last night off my driveway with the 308. While I was at it took out the C-141 for a ride and got it mildly stuck on slush/ice. I also figured I'd stretch the legs on my ATV as well and in the process of plowing moved my Snowmobile to plow around it. Then took that for a spin.

Here is one:

I would suggest putting a shut off valve on it so that you can run the carb dry when you park it for extended times. A battery tender would also be a good idea. They do help extend battery life.

I’d like to add 42 years owning, using, fixing, restoring, and collecting Wheel Horse tractors and implements 👍🏻🙂

More sheet metal repair. The bolt hole in the seat was busted out, fact it was so big the the head of a 1/2 carriage bolt would drop right through it. I used a hole saw to make a washer out of 10ga sheet metal. Welded this washer in place plus took care of a couple of stress cracks. Ground all the welds smooth, Squared the hole to fit a 1/2" carriage bolt. The seat and front rims then made a trip through the blast cabinet. Moved on to the hood which had some cracks around the front mounting hole, plus plenty of dents. Spent a couple hours with a hammer in my hand bouncing back & forth between the anvil, a sand bag, and some hand dollies to get it as straight as I could. It will still need some minor body filler work to be perfect. After it was straitened out I drilled some holes at the end of the cracks, beveled the cracks out, weld & grind. Other than that all I have to show is a bucket full of sand blasted parts.

All: Inspired by the lengthy thread started by @Blue Chips, and not desiring to hijack it..... Several folks showed versions of Hub Pullers of their own design. Others commented that they should fabricate more and sell them. The common consensus was that there was not enough "Meat on the Bone" to do so and still cover expenses, never mind generate a healthy profit.... I recently posted about machining a C Series front axle to receive Flanged and Straight Bushings. I have offered this service for over 5 years at a flat shop fee of $100. Let's break down what you get for your crisp Benjamin..... The terms are as follows: You supply a rebuildable axle and spindles. An axle with holes wallowed out more than 1/16" will require a different one be supplied. Spindles with moderate wear can be welded up & recut. You purchase the six Bushings / Thrust Washers of your choice first. Shipping the axle assembly both ways is on you. There are three different setups required to renew the axle; Center Pivot, Right Spindle Bore, and Left Spindle Bore. The last two are referenced off the finished Pivot... Fixturing the axle casting is tedious. Most of the machined reference surfaces are either worn or being cut. About as adventuresome as trying to clamp down a Fire Axe. Each setup required about an hour to define the original centerline, clamp in at least 3 places and recheck. THEN you turn on the Milling Machine. And remember you need to mill the underside of the spindle bosses to allow room for the thrust flange so the upper Snap ring fits... All told, complete machining and assembly requires 4 to 5 hours. I still need to pay the Electric Bill for the lights & 2HP Miller. Ditto, I buy any expendable tooling (drills, reamers, new grease fittings, steel shims). And the filler rod, shield gas and electric to TIG weld the worn spindles.. As mentioned, I get a flat $100.... for 4 or more hours of Shop Time. My Electric Bill has close to doubled in 5 years without me adjusting the price. To put it in real world perspective - The Machine Shop where I last worked charged $120 PER HOUR. That is for setup and cutting time, or time on the phone if a problem with the supplied parts comes up. At 2019 prices. So???

Ahhh the nut cracker suit... I just always ground off that lilttle flare & soldered & shrink with no issues so far. If I need a nice set for a cherry resto I just put in a job order at Dan's work. Trolling motor wire works good too... very flexible. They say many small conductors carry current better as the electron flow is greatest on the perimeter of the conductor.

What, you don't attach it to a dedicated "Mule" engine to set the mix screws while running too?? You hack!!!!!

Pulled the trigger on this one from HFT. Was surprised how many dies came with it. Crimps 14 to 0 gauge Will be proud to be able to make my own cables. I hate haveing extra long cabels and to big ol lug holes when not needed and has to be easier on electrical systems.

Beautiful!! You should sell those.

Hydro tranny with foot pedal motion control and hydraulic lift...only way to plow when you have 5 driveways to clear. My 312 H at work last year .312H snow plowing - Wheel Horse Tractors - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

I worked in the oil patch & refineries my entire career. When I started trying to take it apart, that little guy inside said you're peein' in the wind. When I had Liquid Wrench comin' out the bottom of the nut and it wasn't turnin' I KNEW I was in trouble. Two 18inch pipe wrenches and a 4lb hammer later, it's apart. Threads in nut are flat. Useless, but it's apart. I listened to you guys and feel good!

So kinda funny story. I've been working/playing with the C160-8 and 12hp-6 tractors last couple a days. Keep in mind the 160 has separate clutch and brake pedals and the 12hp has clutch and brake on one pedal. I was going down steep grade on the 12hp and clutch spring broke. So, I essentially had a runaway horse going straight for the pond . I went a pretty good ways down the hill before I realized the brake was on the left foot instead of the right. Had to check my bloomers when I got stopped. Never had a clutch spring break before and they will not hold back if there is no spring on there, you can hold pedal back with the heel of your foot but still exciting trying to stop thinking the brake was on my right hand side foot. I was in 3rd on the high side so was moving along pretty good.

@Bill D I believe it was. Recommended tapping on to the positive side of the coil feed. That way the fuel pump is connected to any safety switches that may be in play also, it gets power during the starting and running phases of the ignition switch.

I just wanna say you guys made a believer outta me! Look at the head bolts, they have Liquid wrench the entire length. That spray, hammer every time you walk by a wait a few days really works! Head bolts all seemed to be the same tightness. 2 whacks with the heel of my hand and they came loose. Put a pick under the head gasket & it popped right off. Exhaust valve has a lot of debris around it. Cylinder walls are smooth, no nicks or gouges. The mule pulley guard nut came off with the same technic. Pulleys spin freely. I don't understand why the belt wouldn't come thru them. Haven't tried the tension adjuster yet. Found the regulator mounting bolts are loose.

I vote out house .

Ed, quit exaggerating, you won't be 82 for a couple more days. I have only owned Wheel Horses for about 35 years. In 1957 we went to a lawn and garden show and I tried to convince my Dad we needed that RJ-35 so I could ride and mow. He ended up buying a walk behind mower and a walk behind tiller. I did a lot of walking.

Lots of runnin' today so it was a walk by, spray, hammer kinda day. I've been known to be abusive with hammers, so I got my little one.

January 5, 1933, In San Francisco construction began on the Golden Gate Bridge, a suspension bridge that once boasted the longest main span in the world and that has been celebrated for the magnificence of its setting.

January 4, 1847. Samuel Colt sells his first revolver pistol to the United States government. This marked a significant moment for his company, which was initially struggling. The first sale was for 1,000 of the newly developed .44 caliber Walker revolvers.