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Showing most liked content on 03/30/2017 in all areas

  1. 18 likes
    The mere mention of those words have sent grown men scurrying to that popular auction site for sightings but I have found a real nice one here on another popular site for hunting for horses........enjoy! Well maybe not THEE original shower head ..... @wheelhorseman1000
  2. 12 likes
    Actually, that is for watering the corn row you just planted. You can always tell when a union plumber got paid by the piece.
  3. 9 likes
    Next came the frame. First thing to notice is the hood support is a little bent. Not sure how to straighten it yet, but I'll come up with something. As of right now, the steering shaft doesn't line up with the shaft support tube on the frame. There is also some added weld to the top edges of the frame, so I'll grind all of them away before applying a finish coat. It took a long time to strip the old paint off of this frame, especially since I'm using a grinder with a wire wheel, but each time I removed paint and got things down to bare metal, I'd apply a coat of primer to keep the rust to a minimum. It's finally completely stripped, primed, and ready for additional primer to fill in some small rust pits. I also worked at getting the toolbox completely stripped and primed, however this had a lot of small rust pits as well, mostly where the fenders mount up, but some on the front and back sides as well. So, this will get a couple of primer coats, then sanded smooth, and re-primered before getting any finish coats applied. Since I'm new here on the site, and don't know a whole lot of you guys yet, I thought I'd ask to see how the group feels about some minor customization? Nothing huge, just painting some minor parts different colors other than the red it was supposed to be? I don't want to offend anyone here, so that is why I'm asking. For instance, the brake drum should be painted red, but I elected to paint it black. The brake rod should be red as well, but I elected to paint it silver. The steering shaft and center hub will be red as it's supposed to be, but after cleaning up the spokes of the steering wheel, I was thinking about shining up the metal and keeping them their natural metal just as an added twist. Again, not major or drastic changes, but rather some that will set the tractor off a bit and maybe make it look a little more personal. When I do my restorations, I like to change things up a bit. In most cases, I try not to use more than three color variations to any brand, however with this being a Wheel Horse, my color selections are Red, White, Black, and Silver. All of which will combine rather nicely together when all is said and done.
  4. 9 likes
    A couple more parts first coated with finish: I started wire wheeling the front rims next, and have them stripped, primed, and first coated with finish: Since the front tires were original Wheel Horse marked tires, I wanted to do what I could to save them and reuse them on this tractor. After spending a few hours cleaning them up with a scrub brush, a tooth brush, and some Comet cleaner, I think they turned out pretty well. The one front tire however, has some broken cords showing, so I think a replacement tire will be in order when found.
  5. 8 likes
    I acquired this tractor a couple of years ago from a guy who thought it was a John Deere round fender. I currently have 31 lawn & garden tractors in my collection, all John Deere's, and nothing newer than 1973. I wasn't going to buy this tractor due to it being a Wheel Horse, however since it's an RJ and my youngest son's name is Ryan James, I figured I'd bring it home. Yes, this is the only "red" machine that I own. Anyway, once it was home, I took the tractor completely apart due to limited storage space in my garage, never thinking to snap a couple of pictures first, so sorry guys, I have nothing for you to compare it too when it's done. I'm slowly finding all of the parts and pieces, so as I do, I'll update as I go along. Here is what I started with July of last year. Each piece is getting completely stripped, primed, and first coated for now. I'll get to wet sanding and additional coats of finish later when all of the parts can be done together at the same time. As you can see, this RJ was repainted green at some point in it's life time, however I'm hoping to make it look as good as it would have been off of the showroom floor. I have the lift arm, front axle, rear wheel hubs, brake band, and a few other small little pieces stripped and primed. These pieces hung for a few days then were lightly sanded with a brown paper bag, and re-coated again with primer. I also spent the extra time tapping off the brake band.
  6. 8 likes
    Started on the transmission, getting it stripped and primed. I wasn't going to take it apart so I started applying a finish coat. However, after applying the first finish coat, I figured a restoration to actual factory specs wouldn't be accurate if everything wasn't gone through 100%, so I decided to disassemble the tranny. After getting it torn apart and could finally see what the inside looked like, I was quite surprised to find that all of the internal gears look really good with hardly any wear whatsoever. I thought I'd find at least a couple of broken teeth somewhere, but nothing. Even though the bearings all look good and spin freely, they will be getting replaced as well as the bushings and seals. Should be an easy fix Thanks to my Friend Jake Kuhn for getting me all of the parts. Started replacement of bearings, seals, and bushings:
  7. 8 likes
    Next will be stripping the gas tank, the fenders, and the seat pan. After being stripped, they were coated with two coats of primer. When the primer was cured, I started applying finish coats to the gas tank and fenders. Here is one fender and the gas tank after the first coat of finish: Then wet sanded with 320 grit: After a second coat of finish is applied: And now after being wet sanded with 1500 grit sandpaper, and another coat of finish applied: And the gas tank so far: Oh, here is the seat pan after being stripped and primed:
  8. 7 likes
    A fellow collector Friend of mine knew I was searching for Wheel Horse rear rims and tires, and came through for me big time! Nice original 6-12 Turf-Savers with minimal dry-rot and a good set of rims that don't have a lot of rust. The rims have been sanded, primed, and now have a couple coats of finish applied. I spent 3 1/2 hours cleaning up the tires, but I think it was well worth the effort as they turned out nice. I pondered the thought of white lettering the tires for a couple of days, and finally pulled the trigger and just did it. I think they'll look nice once mounted to the tractor. They'll look even better once they're all shined up. The only thing I noticed wrong so far is, the tires are mounted backwards on the rims, so now I'll have to dismount them and change them around!! Here I have to apologize, as I didn't take a before picture so you'll just have to take my word for it when I say the original seat cushion was bad. It had numerous stains on it and was very dirty. So much so, that I thought it was ruined. However due to it not being all torn up or having major splits in it, I had to try and clean it up. I scrubbed it with Comet powder cleaner for about a half hour, then hung it on the wash line the following day to see if it will bleach any, and sure enough it did! What a major difference. I couldn't believe my eyes when I came home from work and saw it. I have since scrubbed it a second time with Comet cleaner and bleached it on the line again, but I think it's bleached as far as it will go. I then rubbed it down real good with Armorall so that the vinyl will stay soft and won't dry out, so all I need to do now is buy some new string and string it through the hole and this is ready to be mounted.
  9. 6 likes
    Gotta hang your coat somewhere. This way it can be "pre heated"!
  10. 5 likes
    Duke, they say the Xi's are the way to go, but I'm still partial to my Onan powered 520s as I have a 520xi also, and my new SCUT isn't much bigger, good luck on your project, I bet those rear Kenda's are 10.5" wide, and lots of guys have went with the Kenda or Carlisle all trail treads for the Xi's, John @shallowwatersailor would be our resident xi "guru", Jeff.
  11. 5 likes
    I love the creativity of others when it comes to exhaust configuration!!!
  12. 5 likes
    I started working on the steering shaft/column. It has numerous cracks throughout the steering wheel, so I filled them with JB Weld, then I will sand and file down all of the areas in a couple of days. The shaft also had quite a bit of small rust pits, so I applied numerous coats of primer (letting dry between coats), as this is my way of filling in these little voids, as I don't use Bondo anymore than I have to. Once the primer is completely cured, I will sand down the entire shaft so that all of the pits are filled and smooth and un-noticeable once the finish coats are applied.
  13. 4 likes
    The barrel cart is really unique... very nicely done. A great idea for our big show.
  14. 4 likes
    So now on to the motor. Never had it or heard it running, so curious to see how the inside looks. drained the oil, removed the head and pan, and this is what I found. Hardly any carbon build up at all, and everything internally is clean and tight as it should be. Even the valves look good. No markings on the piston, so I have to assume this is the original piston and the motor was never rebuilt before. I'm thinking I may just put everything back together with new gaskets, and take my chances. So what would you guys do? Rebuild it or let it alone? Maybe just hone the cylinder wall and lap the valves? Looking for some advice here.
  15. 4 likes
    Welcome to the group. A plethora of knowledge resides among the members this group. Of course you know that when you get the RED one done, your other 31 will be GREEN with ENVY.
  16. 4 likes
    There is a max limit on non supporting members that runs out rather quick with big pictures. You can go two ways, become a supporter for a reasonable price which gets you unlimited downloads and unlimited pictures, or you can host pictures off site on photobucket or the like and link them here. I am looking forward to the restore, and I know that you will meet the nicest and most helpful fellows on here! There are no stupid questions... mostly. I can't guarantee that you wont get some good natured ribbing, but most people here have a few different brands themselves. We even have an "other color/brand" section that I am sure many on here would like to see some of your collection.
  17. 3 likes
    Good to see you back in prime form Jimmy D!
  18. 3 likes
    So here is what I have. As you know, the recoil was bought separately, the aluminum rope flywheel was attached to the motor, but the aluminum cup and black screen were laying on the seat when I bought the tractor. Do I have what I need? Another question guys. Are these lift handle grips still available, or will I need to clean this one up and reuse it? I can only assume it's original as hard as it was to get off. Looks almost identical to the old metal handled wheelbarrow grips from back in the day.
  19. 3 likes
    This is what I bought, not sure if it's correct or not, however it will bolt up. It does have the rubber handle, I just put it back in the box so that I could paint the recoil. I'll take a picture of the backside today and post it later this afternoon for you to check out. Thanks for the help!
  20. 3 likes
    Here's the pics I promised of the original K91 on my son's rj
  21. 2 likes
    Well you ain't seen nothing till you seen him shake a tree at midnight to try and stop TREE FROGS FROM HOLLERING!
  22. 2 likes
    This is very true. Tractors are also like potato chips. You can't have just one!!
  23. 2 likes
    Welcome Tractors are like Christmas lights The look great all in one color and great in many colors
  24. 2 likes
    Here's the front axle and brake band with two coats of finish applied. These will hang for a couple of days, then I'll wet sand them with 400 grit and re-coat them again. I just signed up to be a site supporter, so once my payment clears I'll post more pictures of my progress. I'm a lot further ahead then what it appears in these couple of photos with the restoration. As you can see on the date stamp of the photos, I started this restoration July of last year.
  25. 2 likes
    Glad you have added some "Red" to your shed!
  26. 1 like
    I have 523dxi with a Kwik Way loader. If you need any info just let me know - The pump mounts in a mule drive and is driven off the pto.I can get you dimensions if you want to build your own.
  27. 1 like
    No problem Duke, now you can repay me by just making two of everything you fab and ship it down to Cincinnati...
  28. 1 like
    I use nothing but rattle cans Jim. I use a brand called Tallman's Agricultural Paint. It is formulated just for main brand tractor manufacturers and with a little effort, it gives off a great finish. It's not sold in stores everywhere and is only available online or through certain distributorships. It goes on very nice and smooth, and is only $4.58 a can. As soon as I can upload more pictures, I'll show you some of my results, and will let you guys judge for yourselves. I'm not perfect by any means, and my finishes may not be quite as nice or as expensive as some out there, however I do the best I can and I'm very happy with my results.
  29. 1 like
    31 tractors in a guy's collection is ipressive regardless of color nonetheless nothing newer than '73!! I got a feeling you know as much about JD's as some guys here do about horses! What brand of paint/method are we using?? Looks nice! you better!
  30. 1 like
    If you don't mind, I'd appreciate it. Once my supporter membership goes through, I'll post pictures of the motor from mine. Unbelievable how clean this motor is. No carbon build up on the head or valves, in fact, the valves looks awesome! Dropped the oil pan and found the internals to be very clean and tight. No markings on the piston, so I have to assume that this motor was never rebuilt. I'm starting to lean towards just buttoning it back up and taking my chances with it.
  31. 1 like
    If you are going to keep the engine stop running it until you find the source of that knock. From the video I hope it is just a loose mount, or some loose accessories bolted to it. If that indeed is a rod / piston knock, the engine cannot be run any longer. As of now it is fully rebuildable, and quite cheap. If you run it and it blows, then it is just worth scrap. Not often do you get lucky when the rod breaks.
  32. 1 like
    Unless the block is damaged beyond repair, any engine is rebuildable. It just comes down to patience in obtaining useable parts, and how much you want to spend getting machine work done. The cast iron "HH" Tecs with roller bearings were very similar to Kohler K engines and are usually worth rebuilding. The standard aluminum block H engines though are a tough call to decide if they are worth putting the money in to. I suppose if its for a really nice old tractor and you want to have an original or correct engine in it, you end up starting the hunt for parts. There is nothing really different to rebuilding the older Tecs than with any other small engine. I've had good luck mechanically with Tec engines, other than their carbs are terrible. From the sounds in the video, I would say the crankpin bearing on the rod is definitely shot, and the piston is slapping against a well worn cylinder wall, throwing a lot of oil on the top end. Pretty much full rebuild required. -Mark-
  33. 1 like
    I've rebuilt two Tecumsehs. Some parts are hard to find, but they're out there if you thrash around enough. I bought a few old Tecs at auctions just to get one or two parts from them. Get to know the serial numbers of the early ones so that the parts are compatible. Check on ebay. Also try Jacks Parts and Small Engine Parts Warehouse online. The early Tecs were good engines, as good as the Kohlers, and not like the stuff Tecumseh built in their later years. Also, I heard a rumor that a remnant of the old Lauson Engine company is now producing parts for the old Tecs. Go online and google "Tecumseh dealers". You'll get some old obsolete listings, but you can call those old Tec dealers to see if they have any parts left in old inventory. Good luck. Just noticed that you're an experienced "Supporting Member" , so you probably already know most of the above. Sorry, I answered fast because I like old Tecumsehs.
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