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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/27/2018 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Set the D-200 out in the sun today 98 degrees to help bake the paint, been in shop for 3 months. Need to get some tail lights yet.
  2. 8 points
    Skonk had to get into the act and carry the flag today. 520 as Honor Guard.
  3. 8 points
    Waterloo N.Y. is the "Official Birthplace of Memorial Day" It all started in 1865 when a group of villagers decided to honor their Civil War dead. In keeping up with this solemn occasion we have a 'Wheels on Main St. show on the Sunday before Memorial Day. There's a parade on Saturday, a Parade on Monday, a parade on the 30th which is the Official Memorial Day (at least around here), fireworks a few feet from my house, YOU NAME IT! Well today rain is threatening and turnout is way down but I managed to sneek my 701 into the IH space. Their turnout is so small this year they didn't move my tractor without my knowledge
  4. 6 points
    Probably had a crack in it where it mounts. And the crack on it too
  5. 6 points
    I've posted in other threads about this rig in the past. It was most likely a commercially sold splitter when new. It was rebuilt and upgraded by the previous owner. He is a professional logger and the wood he burned is the bottom stumps of the tree after the feller comes through... He cut them off and took them home. Free wood but big and hard to handle and split. Our machine has a 20 ton or larger ram, and the push head and splitting wedge have both been added on to for splitting larger pieces. Well it still had the little 4.00/4.80 x 8 tires and rims and we knew when we got it that both wheel bearing sets were beyond trash. Also, the height of the work beam was just at the wrong level... Several inches below where your back is bent just a little too much. I pulled off the wheels and bearings and discovered that the axle stub fit a set of hubs I had here so I replaced the assembly on both sides with 15" trailer tires.... Just fit!!! Before Middle After
  6. 6 points
    Spent most of the day in the shop yesterday cleaning, organizing, moving some things around. All in an effort to get the B80 in there to be worked on. I've been to a few shows over the years but never brought anything of my own. This year I've decided to bring my future "Patriot Horse". To at least one or two. The painting project was put on hold last year so I could work on the Cinnamon C160. Well late yesterday... My honey, not me.... ... Peeled all the sheet metal off the B and we ground off the rust and she washed the parts and primed them. Here is a whole tractor pic with the splitter I took yesterday... "Before" Couple other before pics. (This is the blue we'll be using.) And some primed parts. Steps will also be blue. They just didn't make it in to the photo shoot. Engine and wheels will be antique white. I already have a full set of stickers from @Vinylguy that will be installed as well. When we get more time to completely disassemble the tractor the frame, seat base/tool box and steering tower will likely be repainted red.
  7. 6 points
    1st.. check the fluid level. DO NOT OVERFILL. (if pinkish = ATF, otherwise use 30w oil). 2nd... drive it around for 10 minutes or so to bring the oil up to normal operating temp. 3rd...try to drive it FORWARD up a steep hill, turn around and BACKWARD up the hill. (If it doesn't pass this test, the hydro pump and/or hydro motor are in need of rebuild .) 4th...use chain to tie off to a tree to see if rear wheel(s) spin. If it passes all these tests, taake it home. If it has hydraulic lift, work that up/dow too. Also...after the 'testing' If you see oil drips on the floor, it will probably need seals somewhere.
  8. 5 points
    Helping out a local Shrine with some new property they just picked up. It needed a bit of weed "whipping"... C-105 did the job with no complaints. Amazing power...
  9. 5 points
    only one more thing needed! for that ugly seat!
  10. 4 points
  11. 4 points
    I can't believe it's been over a month since I've touched this rig but we've been Sooooo busy!!!! Just a quick one today. I put the hubs and wheels on using a kit from @rmaynard. I need to be able to reposition it in the shop a bit. Next project is to tear apart the 8 speed and clean it from inside to eliminate a grinder style wheel bearing.
  12. 3 points
    Today's update on the B80 sheet metal painting project
  13. 3 points
    So last night i was browsing facebook and see a 701 for 125 bucks. i looked at it and i was hmmm doesnt have original hood or belt guard. i thought about it for a bit and then it hit me. hoods are not cheap and i needed one for 753. so i asked guy if it was available and then called my friend because i do not do city driving much. so we went this morning and traveled just north of chicago and i bought it. and i got a little extra guy threw in. come to find out he bought a new dash peice for it and it was in his garage lol. so its not perfect. but it will provide parts if needed for my 701. i already am going to pull the front rims and the toolbox for my 701. so it cost me about 175 bucks in all to get it home so not bad. once home i put the hood on the 753 and seat too. and i noticed frame was busted on this 701 so not a lost at all.
  14. 3 points
  15. 3 points
  16. 3 points
    Beautiful tractor. great Work!! I would strongly recommend you put a filter on the FEL. Never understood why Wheel Horse thought a suction screen was adequate.
  17. 3 points
    I use lots of old equipment. Wheel Horses are mostly in the 40-50 yr old range my farm tractors are 65-74 years old my M37 is 67. They all work....but if one of them develops a problem its not like I have to have it because I have to get to work or the grass is growing snow pileing up etc.... If you only have one unit and have "must do's" get something new....
  18. 3 points
    I'm ok with that ..... IF ...... I can get another....
  19. 3 points
    As long as the K-341 isn't off a shaker mount. For all practical purposes a 10, 12, 14 and 16hp models are the same size on the exterior. I put a 16 on a 76 B-80 and it was bolt in but in 76 and 77 the B's were the same frame, tranny, etc. as the C's.
  20. 3 points
    Well, two things here...either someone spent a lot of time messing up a good horse...or somebody spent a lot of time messing up a good horse. it is a Wheel Horse frame. Front tires are from a Lawn Ranger. The hood is from 1960, but has been heavily modified. Not sure where the seat is from. The fenders look like they were from a horse, but have been modified. Wheel Horse never used Wisconsin engines. The Ponds used Wisconsin's on their Senior horses. I don't mean to be picking it apart...the Seniors were a one of a kind also. Does it run?? Somebody loved it enough to keep it running. Interesting for sure.
  21. 3 points
    I bought a 1973 16 automatic, so I no longer need the 1973 12-8 speed. It will come with an extra set of running boards, tire chains and a replacement belt for the snow thrower. I'm asking $750 for everything.
  22. 3 points
    OK, let's nip this post before we get TMI.
  23. 3 points
    Well that's what I thought Ritchie but there isn't a crack in the metal it just flexes. The other crack flexes all the time.
  24. 3 points
    Here is a picture of it just below the axle. It is 1/2" wide, 1" long and 1/4" stock and is flat.. The bolts that hold the side plates on are 1/2"...the bolt that holds on this piece is 3/4". It has a 1/4" hole for the end of the spring. They are easy to make.
  25. 3 points
    Always a good day just hanging out and relaxing with friends at a local engine show. Not sure what the button thing is either but did see people walking around with button ribbon thingys pinned to their shirts. I know Sparky deserved a first place blue ribbon for putt'n up with my jokes and BS all day!
  26. 3 points
    The op has been told numerous times about why he shouldn't use his username as a subject title....for some reason, he won't comply. Oh well, some people won't learn, I guess. I edited the title to a more appropriate title. I also merged his two threads.
  27. 3 points
    Happy Memorial Day weekend, And thanks to all--both here and gone. Picked up a Johnny bucket laat week from @snowhound. Decided today to clean the carb on my 310 and get it running... then decided the Johnny bucket should go on it... then decided the 25" atv tires that were on a GT2500 I again got from Snowhound (Ed) should go on it... then decided the 6" fronts had to go and found a set of 18" ones. Put it all together and adjusted travel on bucket so it would scrape if I wanted. Need threaded rod and nuts / bolts for the weights--off to hardware store tomorrow. Im impressed with the huge ground clearence. Im going to use it alot for moving small things around. I also think my father is going to want to use it to move some loam / mulch around. Tony
  28. 3 points
    Air conditioned headlights, what will you Floridians come up with next?
  29. 3 points
    Decided I’d rather finish the turning brakes and add hydraulics before I do complete tear down and paint. I made some headway this afternoon. It’s a bit difficult to see but the calipers are mechanical and the engagement lever is normally low and when pulled in upward direction will brake. I fabbed up brackets, threaded rod and pulleys to route the brake cable today.
  30. 2 points
    I've been using this stuff for the last 8 years, PRI/G. I ran across it at the local JD tractor dealer, the guy said they had been selling the PRI/D (for diesel) for years. The farmers use it in their large diesel storage tanks, he said it works great so they started carrying the gas formula. Supposed to keep gas fresh for up to a year, and then you can retreat it every year, also heard it will freshen up old gas. I don't know about all that, but have used treated gas that was at least a year old and it looked and worked fine. At the beginning of hurricane seasoning I treat 60 gallons of gas with it. It's cheaper than StA-Bil,1oz treats 16 gallons of gas, a bottle on Amazon costs $29.99 and treats 250 gallons. It also supposedly does more the StA-BIL does for your engine, top end, and carb stuff, again I don't know about all that. I can say in the last 8 years I've had no carb issues with any of my stuff. Now, I only use non ethanol gas in my equipment so maybe this is over kill, I am a bit anal, but it's cheap and I want my stuff to work when I need it. I have used it in my truck, and when I do I get a mile more per gallon. 2015-PRI-G-Flyer.pdf
  31. 2 points
    Good morning all, Saw the 1960 movie "Sink the Bismarck" on tv... watched it then was googling and reading about the two biggest battleships of the day... the HMS Hood and the Bismarck. Hard to imagine that we as humans can build such powerful stuff and yet in one weeks time completly destroy all of it and kill 3500 men while doing it. R.I.P all involved Tony
  32. 2 points
    Across the battery is between 12.5 to 13.5 volts never lower. I’ll post a pic . I ran it today for a long time and the battery didn’t drop any voltage like it did before. I’m certain it’s charging
  33. 2 points
    Looks cool and you have dual toolboxes.
  34. 2 points
    Sue....eeet, that's quite the tractor
  35. 2 points
    Thanks. @DennisThornton Pretty sure i detailed the basic brake parts I started with. The calipers are mechanical Cub calipers which I modified. The discs themselves I made from eBay blank steel discs. There are dozens of ways to skin the proverbial cat. If I were to do again, I’d likely go hydraulic. But once I get these mocked up and built, they should be bullit proof.
  36. 2 points
    seafoam and 93 octane, no issues
  37. 2 points
    We have an appreciation for customs as well as pure stock around here. The important thing is that you love it and will make it something to be proud of. I must say the running board/belt covers are a good safety feature.
  38. 2 points
    With all the modifications it's pretty much impossible to nail it down. Either a 400, 550 or 401. You might be able to determine the year of the transmission by the numbers on it.
  39. 2 points
    It'll fit. The only thing may be the spec of the replacement engine. Wheel Horse spec Kohler engines have threaded holes in the bottom of the oil pan for mounting bolts to go through the frame and into those threaded holes. You should see these threaded holes in your 10hp oil pan
  40. 2 points
    Some heavy high grass to get through and a nice job doing it. Glenn
  41. 2 points
    Information About the Kohler Engine Models KT17, KT19, KT21, and KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II Oiling Systems - Kohler engine models KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, and KT21 (snowmobile engine) all have a gear-driven gerotor oil pump, and use one of two types of pressurized lubrication systems. The first design KT17, KT19 and KT21 engines use a pressurized SPRAY lubrication system. The oil pump delivers oil to the main bearings and camshaft bearings at approximately 5 PSI. Lubrication for the connecting rod journals is provided by oil sprayed from two small holes drilled in the camshaft in alignment with the connecting rods. The main bearings are under pressurized oil, but the connecting rod journals receive oil that's constantly sprayed through drilled holes in an oil passageway in the camshaft. These are very well-designed engines, but have gained a bad reputation because either the wrong velocity of oil is used and/or the crankcase oil was not changed on a regular basis. If the wrong velocity of oil is used, or if the main bearings are worn due to the oil not being changed, this will lower the oil pressure in the camshaft, and the pressurized spray lubrication system will cause insufficient oiling to the connecting rod journals, especially the #1 rod (one closest to the flywheel, which receives less oil than the #2 rod with worn main bearings), which will eventually lead to connecting rod failure. What causes the rod failure is if the motor oil isn't changed on a regular basis (once a year or every 25 hours of run time) and/or using non-detergent motor oil, being there's no oil filter for these engines, normal metallic wear fragments in the oil grind away at the main bearings and crankshaft main journals, especially the rear main bearing and journal. This increases the oil clearance between the bearing and journal (oil clearance should be .0013"-.0033"), resulting in excessive oil drainback into the crankcase and providing insufficient oil flow and pressure through the camshaft (again, there is only 5 PSI oil pressure in these engines), which allows less oil sprayed on the connecting rods. This is why the design was changed to a full pressure lubrication system as explained below Ê. When rebuilding either engine, the main bearings should replaced with new ones and the crankshaft main journals (and perhaps rod journals, too) should be reground if worn beyond OEM Kohler specifications. If the crankshaft main journals are worn beyond specifications, the main journals can be reground to .010" or .020" undersize, and matching undersize main bearings will need to be installed. The rod journals can only be reground to .010" undersize, and .010" undersize rods will need to be used. In most cases, it's cost-prohibitive to have a worn or heavily scored crank journal welded up and reground back to STD size. Also, on these engines, one main journal can be reground undersize if it's worn beyond specifications (mostly likely the PTO end), and the other (most likely the flywheel end) can remain STD size if it's within specifications. But if the engine has an oil filter and if the oil is changed regularly, it's less likely that the crankshaft main journals and main bearings will not wear beyond specifications. The reason Kohler didn't provide provisions for an oil filter on the first design KT17 and KT19 engines is because again, being these engines only produce 5 PSI oil pressure, there wouldn't be enough oil pressure to pump through the filter and then to the main bearings and spray on the rods. Also, being there's no provision (port) on the engine block for an oil filter to filter out contaminants from the crankcase oil, it'll be a good idea to install either an oil drain plug with a very strong rare earth/neodymium magnet, or glue a very strong rare earth/neodymium magnet to the inside bottom of the oil pan or engine base to attract steel or cast iron metal wear fragments for continued full oil pressure and longer engine life. Sometimes some of the wear fragments do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. The crankcase oil should be changed once a year or every 25 hours of run time. Be sure to use high quality 10W30 or 10W40 motor oil, too. The first design KT17 and KT19 are a very good engines and should last a long time, only if high quality motor oil is used, and the crankcase oil is changed on a regular basis and/or using non-detergent motor oil! Fresh high detergent motor oil containing a high zinc content anti-wear additive, such as ZDDP (Zinc dithiophosphate) is cheaper than a new engine or an engine rebuild. The redesigned KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II (including all Magnum twin cylinder engines) have a full pressure lubrication system, much like in a modern-day automobile engine. The Full Pressure Lubrication System delivers oil to the crankshaft bearings, camshaft journals, and connecting rod journals at approximately 25-50 PSI. A spring-loaded pressure relief valve, located in the engine crankcase, behind the closure plate, regulates and limits the maximum oil pressure in the system. The crankshaft is cross-drilled for oil passages from the main journals to the connecting rod journals, and both the main bearings and connecting rod bearing surfaces receive full lubrication from an oil passageway in the block through the crankshaft. Oil does not spray out of the camshaft onto the connecting rods in the KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II and all Magnum twin cylinder engines. If there's no oil filter on a KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II or any Magnum twin cylinder engine (oil adapter port blocked off), it's still important to change the oil on a regular basis with these engines, too. Again, fresh oil is cheaper than an engine or engine rebuild. The first design KT17 and KT19, and the KT17 Series II and KT19 Series II engines look pretty much the same on the outside, except the first design KT17 and KT19 engine blocks have no provision (port) for an oil filter and no port to connect an oil pressure light or mechanical oil gauge. Another way to tell which engine is which (without completely disassembling the engine to see the crankshaft and camshaft for oil holes) is by the engine specification numbers. The specification numbers follows the engine model number on the affixed sticker or label. The specification numbers for the first design KT17 engines are 24299 and lower. The specification numbers for the KT17 Series II engines are 24300 and higher. The specification numbers for the first design KT19 are 49199 and lower. The specification numbers for the KT19 Series II are 49200 and higher. KT21 engines - All specification numbers (32120-32148).
  42. 2 points
    Try wiggling the PTO lever while turning the key to "start" position. May just need to find the sweet spot for the PTO safety switch.
  43. 2 points
    I've often wondered - those commercial-sized walk behind wheeled weed wackers.... Why couldn't a guy use one of those heads/frame and mount it on a carrier off of the front mule drive mount and use the pto from the engine to drive it for knocking down such problem areas? Wouldn't be any more dangerous than the front mounted sickle mower, plus a lot less prone to damage/breakage. Sarge
  44. 2 points
    That makes it sooo much easier dealing with tires. Replacing all my lugs eventually with lug studs and nuts. Actually one of the best upgrades you can make on any garden tractor.
  45. 2 points
    I would like a front deck carrier but not for AC. Would be handy mowing around bushes. 👍
  46. 2 points
    All Ritchie needs is a front deck carrier and he could mount that portable AC on that!
  47. 2 points
    A nice collectable Wheel Horse toy
  48. 2 points
  49. 2 points
    A couple pics from today. It was hot and the humidity was up but NO RAIN! I didn’t buy anything and didn’t need anything but there was plenty of stuff for sale. Best part was just hanging with John @wallfish and his wife and Russ @SALTYWRIGHT
  50. 2 points
    Yep, I went through everything once again and then attached the clutch to the circuit and started it up right, hit the pto switch and "viola"! New pto switch and need a 30@mpfuse, running a 25@mp temporary..It's been good so far, glad I didn't jump on a clutch, glad it's a Holiday Week end! Lol Tractor Factory Tractor Custom Oldman
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