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Played around on the lathe today and turned out some dies for pressing bronze bushings into 3pc differentials and axle tubes. This way i minimize the amount of mushrooming when i press them in vs beating them in with a hammer and socket. Going to use them on my upcoming suburban transmission rebuild.

When I inherited my tractor after the death of one of my best friends it had front tires best described as balloons with groves in them. Since I don't work for a living I am able to stay on top of snow removal so the areas I cleared didn't tend to give me many issues when adjusting my path of travel and knowing how big of bite to take with the blade angled. I like to clear around 6 feet wide on both sides of my road where the city either doesn't get near the curb and traffic doesn't use till I clear it. Where I was having the sliding issues was when changing direction of travel and side of the roadway I was clearing. When crossing the snow packed down from traffic in middle of the road I had to either feather the clutch or drop to low range and or a lower gear depending on if snow pack had turned to ice. Last weekend I had finally had enough of that so started looking to replace my front tires. I ordered them from EBay on Monday evening and they arrived Wednesday. Thursday I pulled the wheels and ran them over to the former Wheelhorse dealer who sold me the NOS wheel weights and chains a couple of years back they charged 20.00 even to break down and mount the new tires. To me 20.00 was worth avoiding the headache of doing it myself. Friday was the first time with the new tires and it was like night and day I found I could even take bigger bites with the blade angled and switching directions across snow pack was done in high range 3rd gear. Just came back in from dressing up sides of street where the plow came through last night and pushed crap from middle of road to the sides that I keep clear and I'm kicking myself for not doing this a couple of years ago. I also bought a set of chains for the front. I mounted one and when I mounted the wheel I tested it and it hit the tie rod end so am not using them this year. I will see if I can figure out what needs to be done to get them to clear the tie rods next summer when its not in the low double digits outside. I have a couple of ideas and if I solve that issue I'll let ya know.

Hi my name is William Larsen and I live in Goldendale Washington. I just picked up a 72 GT-14. It needs a lot of work and I am sure I will need lots of advice from you guy's. I will also be taking advantage of all the information on here already. I am going to have lots of fun restoring tractor. It has a 3 point and a front blade. It is a privilege to be a part of the group. Photos to come. Thank you and God bless.

Just finished up the 4way hydraulic blade yesterday on the Kioti for my 80 year old dad to clear their long steep winding 4 tenths of a mile stone/dirt driveway, Jeff.

I did not get photos or video in which I wish I would have. But we got about 12 to 14 inchesof snow last night. So I went out this morning and fired up the old 60 suburban 400 to plow. Well she did her job amazingly as usual. But as I'm wrapping up my last couple swipes to the dog cage, I hear someone calling my name. So I turn to find a close by neighbor asking if I could help him quick. So I say sure and to my surprise he got his John deere stuck in the snow. He was so proud of this investment during the summer. It's a gt 235 I believe. Either way he's got a snowblower and weights on it and it was buried. Well instead of firing up another tractor. I hooked a pull strap to the back of his tractor and to mine. And the old girl pulled it out in first gear about half throttle. I was laughing inside pretty heavily. But he was amazed on the power of the wheel horse. I drove away smiling. I get inside and my better half says you enjoyed that way to much, I could see you grinning from three houses down.

12-16" of the white stuff. Had the 520 out first with the blower but no pics. Throttle froze after the first 5 min of blowing. Seems to be freezing where it loops under the engine. It froze on me last year too. going to have to try to figure out why. But got it knocked down enough to get the C-160 out to scrape it down. Lots of ice under it and it made it heavy. Had to move the piles with Elvis. This lovely couple hung out on my porch warming up from the dryer exhaust.

Here's a picture of my driveway looking from the house down to the road where it goes down the hill And this is the circle to all the buildings There was no snow last night at 5 pm and it was 50 degrees

I've already posted a picture of my 73 No Name (Ezra ) but this is a picture of the team I use for snow 68 Commando 8 this is a fun little guy to plow with, great in tight spots and it will move snow

Welcome to red square where you will find a world of knowledge about wheel horse tractor, as for the C160 with attachments, Running tractor W/ all them att. 800 to 1200, not running maybe 300 to 400.

Your GT-14 has a Radiator?

It depends on a few factors including where the transmission pulley is also. The best way is to place a straight edge across the face of all pulleys. Straight edge should be touching both edges of all pulleys in question. Now they are aligned. Check to see if they clear everything specially belt guard. If so you should be OK. If not you are going to have to move all pulleys in or out to achieve clearance. Pulley at engine probably got loose and moved inwards towards engine. That is known to happen. Make sure that set screws are tight once alignment is finished. Its a good idea to check that occasionally specially after extreme temperature changes. Here is an example on something else but same principle:

to the Hoop. Always room for another PeeAaaer. IMO, the C-160 was one of the best tractors made by WH and the implements listed are valuable. But condition is everything when determining value. Pictures will help.

Hello Carlos and Welcome. Like it was mentioned before your starter is probably OK.Try the following first: If your starter turns when power is applied to it,but will not engage engine the Bendix is most likely stuck or frozen.Its an item that needs occasional maintenance. When power is applied to starter ,the gear at end of starter moves forward on the threaded shaft therefor engaging flywheel. Most likely that is not happening on yours and starter just spins therefor the sound you hear. You need to lubricate shaft. You probably can get it unstuck by just applying a little pressure to that part of it with a screw driver's tip. Refer to photos below, and to video to see how it operates. IMG_0945.MOV

You can fix this problem by becoming a supporter and post all the you want....

I kept saying I'm going to change the oil, then put it off. So today I had time and drove it out let it get hot and changed the oil and greased it up. I couldn't remember how much oil it took but according to the info I found they take 2.5 quarts. More than I though but it sounds like around '85 kohler increased the oil capacity by half a quart.

Just finished up a “Lambo” style hood hinge assembly. Haven’t built the rest yet. Second photo is where I got the idea.

Crankcase breather???

@Carlos VB Others here have given good advise on the starter, so I won't add anything to their comments. Your English is just fine, and we know what you are talking about. As @rmaynard said, if you don't understand what we are trying to say, let us know and we will try harder to help you. We are one big, happy Wheel Horse family here and ready to help our neighbors.

Booked, Wed-Sat. Now hopefully I can sell my '97 416-8, down here to help finance the trip.

Huh... its that easy. I got my renewal notice and forgot. Ill get that fixed asap. Thanks Tony

Carlos, Welcome. I know that it is difficult to try to translate from Spanish to English and vice-versa, so if you don't understand what is being told, please don't give up. Keep asking. We will eventually get you an answer that you can understand. I wish that I had stayed awake in school during Spanish class. By the way, we have another member in Spain named Carlos. He is in Madrid. @carlosking450

Carlos: The starter may not be bad. On theses Kohler Magum motors I found that the Bendix (front part of the starter) with the teeth tends to stick and could use some lubrication. Getting the starter off is somewhat difficult on this motor. But you don't need to take the starter off the motor block. Two bolts are on right side near belt guard that hold the starter in place. You could also have a bad solenoid if lubing and freeing up movement of the stater head does not work. I have lubed with everything in place and freed up the Bendix using WD 40 . I have also removed the front motor cover (there are several bolts to do that and just remove bolts and loosen from the motor block to access the Bendix or head of the starter to get a view of what is happening when you turn on the motor from the key switch) New Starter if yours is bad or broken: https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/starter-for-kohler-10-12-14-16-hp-cub-cadet-toro-massey-ferguson.html?mrkgcl=1145&mrkgadid=3179573198&rkg_id=h-2063cad8fefb47952b6f60365e8012b2_t-1515946634&product_id=SAB0060&adpos=1o2&creative=196860178241&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KCQiAnOzSBRDGARIsAL-mUB170x63DOyMHrTpuQTdjojmNTxfa4WUH_mVWoduEzI5DT5U6KU0qKUaAoaeEALw_wcB

My other interests are probably too many to list, however besides family, the one that takes a hold of my life is my profession which is also my hobby and the main passion in my life. Somehow everything is interwoven with it and many of the other interests such as tool collecting emanate from if. Here is some of it:

If it has been operated for short periods and is below freezing it may be condensation frozen in the CC Breather.

how much goes the Hellow Kitty take?

Mine did this earlier this winter I found it was simply the cotter key had either came out of the trunion or had worn out and broke into pieces. If you remove the panel I am pointing to in the picture you will see the upper arm that the trunion goes into. I would look there first it is only 2 bolts to check it. There should be a diagram in the manuals and I'm sure one of our members will chime in with link to it in a few on this assembly.

Good luck and let us know. If you do need a starter they are very common here and not that expensive. Shipping will probably be more than the actual starter. We can steer you in the right direction if you need one. I will be joining you in the sixties in a few months too.

I am one of the least knowledgable members of the forum, but I like to do price speculation more than most. Wheel Horses are more plentiful in PA than MO. In MO, that setup could be listed $1200+ in good shape. Finding a WH tiller with correct hitch $300+, Blade $75-125, Good condition C-160 8spd $500+ w/deck, spreader... who knows. I would like a spreader if it was for salt!

All great advice above. I agree it is very possible the starter did not "explode" . The starter and solenoid should be checked separately by applying 12V power directly at the devices to determine if they are working properly. If the starter spins or whirrrllls., like stated above, the starter motor is probably OK ad the "Bendix" engagement gear is stuck and simply needs cleaned and lubricated.

You put the lime in the coconut and drink it all up and call me in the morning. Wooo woo. Anyway...it is supposed to warm up again this weekend. It probably means more snow, but it also means time to fix a few things. Get better my friend. I recomend rock & Rye cut with Vodka...doctor's orders.

@857 horse is alive and well. I get a text once in a while from him. Takes me a week to dechipher what's going down there but I figure he lives too close to @elcamino/wheelhorse Must be a local thing.

If you can post a pic you will get better input from folks...

After you have removed the water from inside the cable, and added some lube, try putting one of these cable seals on the end to keep water the out. Available on eBay and possibly your local motorcycle shop.

If yours is 1999 and on, you should have a key switch on the seat frame to override reverse.

Believe it, or not... I've have great results just using carb cleaner...applied generously to a clean cotton t-shirt. Trick is to not get it too hot(long exposure)...use quick wipes, and moderate pressure... turn the rag after each pass to a clean area, reapply carb cleaner...make another wipe. Best to try a small test.. first, in an inconspicuous area, before moving onto the entire hood surface.

Hello all... Well my 314-8 plow rig went to Russ (saltywright) and in exchange I got his Briggs Gt1800 hydro... Thanks Russ! Cool machine and I love the Briggs twin. So... that left me with no plow rig. The temps went up past 60 this week in CT and melted all the snow. This allowed me to roll the 312-8 I picked up into the shop---the trans is broke... it shifts hi/lo and the main shifter is shifting the "4" speeds... you can feel the resistance. But nothing happens with clutch out. Yes input shaft is spinning and by shifting hi/lo with clutch out you get grinding---so somethings going on. Pulled this 8 speed out of engineless carcass and im thawing it out to put in 312. I hate how these transaxles end up with water sitting outside... guess I have to cover my parts machines. Ill add pics later but seems i've clogged up the attachment section with too much "stuff". Ill get that cleaned up Happy Sunday Tony

If he just got it, could be the PO assembled the breather incorrectly. Clean the breather, but don't assume it was assembled correctly.

Could it hurt to add one at this point?

Knew I was going to catch flak over that.

A lot of guys would like to have a set of these. Great job.

Not today too dang cold . Needed to get some stuff straight in the shed , put on long johns , 2 pair of socks and had the a roaring fire in the stove , I made it for about hour and a half.

I need to do this too. But I'm going to replace with tri ribs. Some guys use a #40 bicycle chain around the middle of the tire. Deflate the tire and install the chain then inflate it to hold chain in place. But there not good for blacktop or concrete drives .

I’m getting stoked. Room booked, vacation days approved. Skittles should be wearing new colors soon. Everything is looking good.

@Hoopie I noticed in your post you said, "spreader" as an attachment....what kind of a spreader? Not sure but it may not be branded Wheel Horse....just asking.

I don't know if my eyes were deceiving me or what, but in the video, the idler does not appear to be rotating.

I saw this thread and I do it myself without a tool .Total is (maybe .50 cents ) for a small hose clamp which you probably already have. 1) Disconnect the cable from the Carburetor end so the cable is free from all connections on this end. 2) First I take a piece of some scrap gas line that is large enough to go on over the cable. 3) Then I and Cut off about 6" of this gas line preferably see through. 4) Slide about 1" of this line on over the cable, and Use a small hose clamp to clamp the line tight around the cable. 5) Fill the remaining empty portion of the gas line with Marvel Mystery oil . 6) Now get your compressor air gun and wedge the end of your gun nozzle into the line so it fits tightly, and hit it with compressed air. 7) This will force the oil into the cable, I do this a couple times till oil comes out the other end. This whole procedure takes about 10 min including removal and reinstallation of the affected cable. And It works wonders good luck with whatever you choose to do but this is easy and free.

Chris you know the saying go GREEN. But I think not in this case. Enjoy the ride.

Lacquer thinner works similar to carb cleaner at a lower cost

Update....hey guys thanks for the input....I pulled it all apart....I bought a new impeller, made a new impeller and auger shaft myself... I took the set screws out of impeller and wired it back so it wouldn't hit the augers when engaged....to check the main empeller shaft....it still wobbled....but not as bad. Took the auger shaft out and put it in v blocks and dial indicated it again....it was out .260....put it in press and got true with in.010. Since I commercially blow with this I decided to make two new shafts, new main bearing with lock collar and save the old impeller and shafts for replacements ( I have 2 blowers). I replaced all bushings and thrust bearings, and new bronze bevel gear on auger shaft( that's is a major pain in the a__)....she purrs like a kitten. I also made a auger gear box stabilizer like Kurt made to help keep it stable if one hits a trailer hub or some other foreign object😣will send photos after paint....thanks for the input guys !

Brain freeze. I stand corrected. Thanks for the correction @gwest_ca