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Take LOTS of photos so you will know how it goes back together. Label bolts in bags or put them back into the holes they come out of so you don't loose them. Threaded holes you can insert them into the thread about 2 turns when you paint and then they get painted too and you don't have to hold them.

As the Christmas season is upon us it's time to be thinking about 1 thing and 1 thing only: THE BIG SHOW IN PA!!! Yes it's cold out and there's no snow to plow (unless your at Bob's or Richard's house) but it's time to start planning on where our night tailgating bull sessions are going to be. Some of may not know but the Comfort Inn we stayed at for years was switched to a Super 8 shortly before last years show. Needless to say it was not nearly as nice as before. The good news is, the new Comfort Inn is across the street from the MCdonalds on the corner. Last year "The Big Guy" sent me on a recon mission on Saturday to the new motel. It was under construction but the girl said it was going to be "just like the old Inn" They will even have waffles for breakfast. Looks like a nice big drive up roof for when we're out in the rain at 10:30 at night. I'm including a link and a few pics. Looking for opinions @stevasaurus @Racinbob @Vinylguy @857 horse @JPWH @stratostar250 @953 nut @Aldon @ACman I usually make my resi around the first of the year so I don't spend my money on foolish things like taxes, health care, toothpaste soap ect. https://www.choicehotels.com/pennsylvania/chambersburg/comfort-inn-hotels/pa785?brand=CI

Had to get the beast out and play in the snow!

We had a big snow storm the other day here in erie, pa and the 416h didn't miss a beat! Cleared about 10-12 inches of wet heavy snow. Also, thanks to the person that gave the great idea of using my 4 wheeler helmet and goggles. Great way to keep warm and keeping the snow out of my face!

When I got home from work today got the 1054 out to play in the snow. The ole Work Horse does a great job.

I put the 3/12 to work this afternoon pushing the first snow this winter. Also first winter at our new house. Last year I ran it with the cast iron wheel weights and chains on turfs. This year I have the ags on it and no chains. I'd like to keep it that way since I just put that drive way in a month ago. I have a 2" hitch that I made and a hanger that goes into it. I have 6 44' suitcase weights that I can load on if I need more traction but it pushed the snow up hill no problem today without them. Was too easy plowing my drive so I did most of the culdesac sidewalk and one neighbors driveway

i've seen some fire pits for sale at a tractor show last summer and thought hey i can make that too. so today i fired solidworks back up, had to get used to it again since i haven't used it in a while and was a tad rusty. but now 3 hours later i've got results! BEHOLD THE WHEEL HORSE FIRE PIT! this was the first rendering i did, look good but it didn't quite fit the look i was going for second one, better in blackish, still not completely right and the third at last, really happy with this one, now to find out how much it would cost and if a plasma cutter can do the details(i can have it cnc plasma cut at my saturday job) if nothing else i'd have it laser cut somewhere tadaaaa i also made some blank sides so i can put other logo's on it if need be(might start selling them if they're cheapish enough to produce) Koen

Subframe completed, waiting for paint to dry

Definitely start & continue lubricating all fasteners well in advance of any disassembly.

With the recent disturbing post I just read, I have determined Mike needs a young secretary that is familiar with using the currant internet and up to date windows version. As Glenn has bought his snow cab and I have removed the masking tape with "GET GLENN A CAB" on my piggie bank I have now installed a new piece of masking tape and written GET MIKE A SECRETARY on it with a new sharpy pen............. LET'S GET THIS TAKEN CARE OF ASAP........... WHO'S WITH ME!!!!!!!!

If you are going to use a spray can I highly recommend Premium Decor Fiesta Red from True Value. It goes on really flat and glossy. It dries very quickly and very hard. When I inherited Dad’s 161 it needed some touch up and this was a perfect match. The best part is it’s only $3.50/can. Here are are some before and after pics plus some items I added later and painted to match.

You can also mount your frame to an engine stand. Then you can clean, paint, rebuild the steering and mount up most of the parts for the axle, attach a matic plates, steering tower and work on your wiring while you are at it. And you can rotate it, plus its off the ground.

This is the beast we're up against: Definitely will do lots of pics. I like the "leave ' em where they go" idea... Hadn't thought of that before. For sure ! I have that on the PC desktop. I'll print all the exploded diagrams. Another good one. I actually have to make a harness from scratch when I reassemble. I'll likely use and modificationalize the colored schematic supplied by @BOB ELLISON

We can do this Mike.

I got this from a co-worker the other day. It's been in this form and in his possession for (25 - 30?) years, so he thinks. It appears to possibly be home-made from an implement type alternator from an old Sears GT. It hasn't run for at least 4 or 5 years until today. I tossed a bit of gas in it and it Wants to run. It does run with the choke mostly closed. It'll need to be cleaned out and likely will be fine. Can someone help me ID the engine?? It looks like it was originally Copper colored. I need to order parts for a carb rebuild. I took a few pics all the way around and would be glad to get a specific spot. I could not find any numbers but also don't know where to look. Look at the "muffler". I have no idea what that is but it sure does NOT muffle anything ! Also, Why the big housing and huge drive pulley attached to the engine instead of just 1:1 drive? The alternator is rated at 3600 RPM. Shouldn't the engine be more than able to do that?

My 48" blade is in good shape, but last winter I know the cutting edge was worn out and the paint was faded a bit. First I gave it a wire brushing and light sanding. Primed some bare spots and brushed on some regal red. The cutting edge was a little mre work. I had some leftover 3"x3/16" from my frame repair last winter. I cut it down to 48" then drilled out 5 3/8" holes for my new carrige bolts. The time consuming part was filing the holes square. Finally primed it and three coats of gloss black. Tried it tonight and what a difference

Just good old Yankee ingenuity at work, Had the motor from a pump or whatever in one corner of the barn and a generator in another, a heavy frame in yet another.

You're a very insensitive young whelp liking the fact an old retired truck mechanic living on an indian reservation in Iowa has to climb up a telephone pole to connect to the internet,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I'm SOOO mad at you.............

That's some funny stuff right there. I think you've been sleeping with the window open and your suspenders too tight for too long! I'd start a Go Fund Me page for Dougie for some new telephone poles, but I like the fact he has to climb up his only pole left so he can get on the internets and harass the Englanders.

@ebinmaine when I did my C160 i was not in any hurry. It took me about 2 months to do it. But the one thing I did do is I had a lot of cardboard and I'd draw a picture of the part I was taking apart. If it was the finder I'd take out a bolt and poke a hole in the cardboard and stick the bolt in it where it was in the picture. Never did have any extra bolts or nuts. And when it came time to rewire I tried to save the connector ends if I could and replaced with new whenever I could find the right one. The 5 post switch and the 3 post regulator plugs are not easy to find. The best part is the pride i got from seeing it run good and knowing I did it my way as Frank Sinatra would sing.

Ya better hurry Jay. We have about an 1/8" on the ground and it could get as deep as 3/4".

Before you ever touch it with sandpaper or paint scraper or anything sharp.....I know, I know,,,,kerosene, gas, etc....I was a car painter in a former life and I highly recommend prep-sol....does not leave a film that can be sanded into the metal that will ruin your paint job....that being said, I wouldn't go to the expense for a worker machine.. and do as 19richie66 said....on old cars, I used a notebook to make drawings of bolt and other items locations... have fun...

It must have had some other application where the gear reduction was required, before it was converted for the generator. Could have been for a water pump, or some industrial application. If they had removed the gear reduction, they would have had to find a pulley for a multi-spline shaft. Jim

If I had the chance to go back in time before I painted my first B-100, I would have investigated single-stage acrylic urethane paint rather than wasting time and money using aerosol cans. The labor used to paint, then remove all that junk paint and redo it correctly can't be calculated. Acrylics are extremely dangerous if not used correctly, but the end result is definitely worth the effort.

Bob is small and light weight, but he's wiry!

@ebinmaine, I'm loving the look of your tractor! I know I've read somewhere, but what size are those front tires? They give it one tough look! Loving squonk's suggestion about paint. I always take what's first on the shelf. Guess that's why I get so many runs. Gotta start being more careful when I choose cans.

I must not have done it right yesterday. The drive is covered again. Dang.....gotta go do it again before family members show up this afternoon...... They're saying 4-7" off the lake after this system passes

All very good advice from the contributors. One point on assembly is to ensure every bolted joint is cleaned to bare metal for electrical Ground (Earthing in UK) continuity as you go. It will avoid a lot of time trying to find out why you can't get a spark or the lights to work etc. I used Stainless Bolts/Setscrews on my project, which are not as good at conducting Leccy as Steel, but to ensure good conductivity and continuity, I cleaned the inside hole faces in panels and frame and bound clean copper wire into the threads under the heads so the copper would bind in the holes and so would form the connections. It meant I didn't have to chip the paint off around the holes where the bolts touched. You can also read or follow other Thread Projects on here for any pitfalls. here's a link to my offering, a few years ago now, but still being viewed as the visit count is nearly 19500 -LINK- . It is of similar age and type to your Tractor. Enjoy your project.

This is soooo important. Not just prior to sanding to bare metal but every time you perform any painting. Oils from your hands or contaminants from the atmosphere will come back to haunt you if you don't. Also check out @JPWH post from a couple years ago, lots of good painting tips in it. Pick up some "Brady Tags" from your friendly local electrician (or an electrical supply, HD or Lowe's) and use them on all of your wires and make corresponding notations on your electrical drawing.

I like using a 4 wheel dolly to hold the main frame. Allows moving the tractor out of the way to work on components. Also provides a working platform of right height. I used jack stands but would recommend a wooden frame screwed into the dolly deck.

Sometimes I'll use those small colored zip ties to mark the wiring and what it hooks to. Use different color combos then make a list of what combinations hook where. And pics of it in place with the zip ties on seem to help also.

Totally agree with lots of pics before taking anything apart and also with large clear bags so you can label nuts and bolts...I took so many pics just to remind myself where they went also replaced all my hardware with grade 8 bolts and lock nuts. Tractor supply here sells all there hardware by the pound...cuts cost

Well everyone, this is going to be the First time I've disassembled a Whole tractor to repaint and refresh a few things. My 74/75 B80 is running good and seems to be what I wanted in a tractor so I'm going to pretty it up a bit this winter. No implements, just the tractor. I'm going to do a general degrease and clean up and spray can finish. What are ALL the little things you DO, or wish you you were told, or things to look out for? I have waiting to be installed: New brake lining, rear wheel seals, some knobs and stickers...

A buddy was junking an old portable generator a while back and asked me if I wanted the motor/generator off of the engine. When I went to take it off I noticed this cover/kill switch over the spark plug, I've never seen one like this before so I took it off and put it in stock. Probably one more thing my kids will sell at the garage sale they're bound to have after I'm gone. lol...... Anybody see these back in the day?

I'm thinking...this is more his speed.

Fer sure a Briggs EB.... I have a later model like it on a vintage sno blower with looks to be the same reduction gear. mine doesn't have the up draft carb tho. Probaly a five hp but maybe an eight? Get a shot of that name plate on the genny if you would. I have one very simiilar that came with my 520 but mine does not have that 230vac outlet. Pretty sure that rig should be spinning at 3600. Dan @Achto can maybe tell me if I'm stupid or not on that. I'm thinkin you could hang that genny off the front of a tractor and make it work if so inclined. One of those brackets hangs it off the front attachamatic. Haven' played with it much tho yet. Ok so now looking at the similarities of the genny frame yours and mine are definitely kissing cousins

I did the same!

The engine numbers may be stamped at the very top of the blower housing along the edge where the plug wire comes out Or along that same vertical edge facing the air cleaner. Garry

Briggs used copper color paint for at least a few years on some equipment (including Montg Wards), and the shape of the engine sure looks like a big Briggs. Looks like an 8 or 10 hp that I once had. It has a gear ratio reduction on it. That's why the pulley is so big , to get the generator rpm's up. Interesting non-muffler. Always interesting to guess the history of some of these setups. Jim

I don't know if you want to camp Jay...it's supposed to rain most of the weekend.

It's still on 81 Jim. That's the only downfall. We could wheel a roundhood into your room and you could listen to a Kohler all night!

and there is a phone company cross connect box right there...I'll feel right at home. Love the handy-cap bar in the head.

I'm liking it Mike. The breakfast and the same nice drive to the fairgrounds.

I used to mix paint during my Napa days. I picked on customers all the time. (I know you guys are thinking NO WAY!) There was a guy who races modifieds. Nice guy but always acted like he lost his dog or something. He comes in to pick up a gallon of "7x" yellow. I said "I put the runs in it already so you don't have to bother." He looks at me and stares for like 10 seconds until I burst out laughing. He finally got it was a joke smiles and leaves. Calls me in a couple of days and is acting all mad. He says I gypped him because he couldn't find the runs I put in.

The bigger question....How is he staying in the seat....

Parts supplied are for 2 versions of pump. You wlll only need the items circled in your image copy to fit back into the main body. Plus the Gasket to fit the Pump of course.

Get a muffin tin or something similar to but bolts in. ( voltage reg bolts in this compartment, hood stand bolts in that compartment ect) Then when picking up the paint, sort through all the cans on the shelf and only take the ones that don't have runs already in them!

How is that hat staying on?

Click on the fuzzy pictures Garry