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Showing most liked content on 07/24/2017 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Spent some quality time with the kiddos. The 1045 got a chance to stretch her legs out. It was a good day today
  2. 5 points
    We are now making reproduction fenders to replace the cracked and broken plastic originals. These are made of fiberglass and are good construction. I do not have a picture of the exact fender yet, the picture i posted is the same fender just with the C195 lever placement. All you have to do is drill the mounting bolt holes you need(the holes are marked just not drilled). Pm me with any questions. Can deliver to Portland Indiana show in Aug.
  3. 5 points
    I had started this on the tractor forum. Then realized it should be on this one. (New Guy) The 704 is coming along nicely. Not near as many parts and smaller too, as the big tractors I have refurbished. I have most of the chassis painted and back to gather. Sheet metal is going to the sand blasters tomorrow. Today I have contacted the decal guy here. Those tires are the originals. I still have the engine to go through. Don't expect to find to much wrong there. It runs good and has good compression. Probably touch up the valves and seats and a good cleaning. Already found a old mud dauber nest in the shroud.
  4. 5 points
    Hi everyone. I've been a little delayed getting my updated pics to you. Took these pics about a week ago. I will include pics of how the tractor was when I retrieved it, as well. I read a post from someone who named their tractors after the original owners, or the previous if the original was unknown. I would like to introduce everyone to Edward (original owner) . Funny what a good power wash and replacing tires can do. Picked up a blade a week ago, so have to get the bracket painted and mounted.
  5. 5 points
    Not a big deal. The 1 bend shifter is probably correct for both horses. You can put it all together and change the shifter anytime you feel like it or find another 1 bend shifter. I may have one for you...I'd have to look. Build the horses and make sure the 1 bend works in both...I'll look and see if I have one. I would trade for the 2 bend if I have the 1 bend for you. I don't need the 1 bend, but I do need to have a spare shifter.
  6. 4 points
    I can fully attest to that!! This wheelie is from moving the throttle from idle to wide open, no need to dump the clutch to get the front end in the air. 6.5 predator with a lil work done to it.
  7. 4 points
    I am just East of Meadville and I have a REPLACEMENT lift handle.... call me at 814-763-5700. (have several of them actually). Dave
  8. 4 points
    Have these on my C195, Never have traction issues discin,plowing or pushing snow with the 54" front blade. Only place it will have trouble is pure ice. Any other time it is unstoppable. Will leave a little bit of an imprint in your yard if it is soft.
  9. 4 points
    1962 serial 62-02856 and on have a bent shifter to clear the hydraulic pump Garry
  10. 4 points
    So since my dad passed yesterday. i got to thinking about expanding the working pad i put in earlier this year. i pulled up all the blocks from infront of my shed. i been having rain getting into my shed anyway because it basically funnels it in. so i got dads second favorite tractor out and went to work removing the dirt that needed to be moved. then i started laying down the blocks. it turned out pretty good. they are not level but that doesnt matter. its better than laying on the sand. i got the tractor stuck twice today lol This was the most work this tractor seen in months. partially due to a good winter. and then when dad got sick it was not used.
  11. 4 points
    Try adjusting the depth limiter (# 40 in diagram), turn it counterclockwise and see if that will allow the deck to lower.
  12. 3 points
    A friend of mine built this little beauty...
  13. 3 points
    I had a couple hours after work today so I made a little progress. After modifying the pump bracket to allow access to the motor mount bolt I tacked it in place. A couple pictures of the double drive pulley. This motor is not tapped for the pto lever bracket so I had to fab one up.
  14. 3 points
    Usually not as expensive either In case I have not already done so Progress looks nice ...keep us posted
  15. 3 points
    Look at it thi9s way: It isn't putting money 'at risk'. It is making an investment. Blowing $500 at Disney in a day or two is 'at risk'. $500 for a 520-HC will get you a whole lot more fun, for a much longer time..... just sayin'
  16. 3 points
    I'm not the best guy to advise you on this, but if the Onan is truly rebuilt, why would he only want 500??....a rebuild would cost way more than that... hmm .. for a 1000 you can pick up a known quality from our members....
  17. 3 points
    Yes the 48" does the job as the 54-56" is actually for the big "D" series, and you will also need the "frame extension kit" because of the swept forward front axle and the rear axle hitch, Jeff.
  18. 3 points
    Great pics , love to see the kids having fun
  19. 3 points
    I have one off of a grasshopper I plan on putting on a 520.. Just got it about 3 years ago...
  20. 3 points
    Thanks, they really do have a love for tractors, and i hope to keep that going with memories
  21. 3 points
    This is a keepsake if there ever was one!
  22. 3 points
    The real. Work starts after the deck is together
  23. 3 points
    If you can't get them to "clean" up, I had a set powder coated close to polished aluminum then hand painted the embossing, Jeff.
  24. 3 points
  25. 2 points
    Hello to all -I recently bought a '75 C-160 8speed and found this forum-what a great resource for the new to me wheel horse needing some TLC. It came with a deck with spindle ripped out of the middle and a box of spare parts- $200 for all. It started and drove on the trailer and when we got it home would barely start as raw gas was pouring out of the air cleaner . After lots of scrubbing and soaking with diesel fuel and simple green most ft he grime came off- Next was flush and fill engine and trans oil and replacing carb with similar carter from a cub cadet waiting to get some love Now its running well and not as grimy so next is plan to put a plow on her-found a 48" and brackets to mount to rear axle, so far so good -BUT- now I realize that my lift lever is roached It came out easy enough-but it looks like the PO at some point broke it and welded it back together -and it doesn't look like it will go back together as parts don't line up well . Does anyone know if there should have been a groove and clip to attach this at the end of the shaft ? Any opinions on try to fix this one or look for new one ? Thanks !
  26. 2 points
    Hello all, I am from the Mill Hall,Pa area.Been reading forums for a few days and like the friendliness of the people here and all the good info.I have had a wheel horse 210-5 mower with a 36 inch deck for years and like it but needed an upgrade. Looked at a 414-8 with a "I think" a 44 inch rear discharge deck. Man, what a difference; great machine and a pleasure to mow.Will try to get pictures,but too hot out for a 72 year old guy for now. Mal
  27. 2 points
    I have a fraind that is a major wheel horse collector, I went to his house this morning for some parts for my 753. I saw these hub caps laying out side I picked them up to look at them and he said "you want them you can have them". They are my first pair of wheel horse hub caps, they have a coat of green paint on them and black but I think I can get that off to get them back to there original glory.
  28. 2 points
    The answer to that is a resounding Y E S .. that being said, the comments about speed changing with an auto tranny on hilly ground is true...auto/manual - just a matter of preference... I like the ability to change my speed infinitely because of all the obstacles I have in my yard...and for plowing snow - auto is great - especially the reverse gear, which on mine ( I have a 516 that I switched to eaton 1100 that was a donor from a 418A.).reverse is as fast as forward - which is fast.I'm real happy with it and it was a breeze to change.
  29. 2 points
    I have one also! I picked it up and looked at it ..... looks like it's been welded also. Then I saw the vise marks on it ... yep welded!
  30. 2 points
    Click AMC/TDF5G's link above (RedSquare-support) best $20/yr to share unlimited pics of your handy work, Jeff.
  31. 2 points
    I'm rebuilding two transmissions, a 5003 for an RJ58 and a 5010 for a Suburban 400. They are going together pretty well (thanks to Steve), but they came with different shifter sticks. Most pictures I've seen show the stick with one bend in it, but it seems that would be a knuckle buster since it's so close to the hot engine block. I've also seen a few pictures with a shifter with TWO bends in it, but don't know if that would clear the seat when shifting into reverse or first gear. The 400 is in pieces (full restoration), so I can't try it out first. WHAT WORKS BEST ? I'm leaning toward putting the 1-bend shifter on the 400, since that will be an authentic restoration. I've looked for a 1-bend stick for the RJ58, but have had no luck, so if the 2-bend stick works, I'll probable use it on the RJ58. Jim
  32. 2 points
    Mowers are fun to work on, but not as much fun as workin' on tractors.
  33. 2 points
    Dealer digging so far and more to come enjoy . http://pho.to/AlZHU
  34. 2 points
    Looks like Ghost Rider handled that with no problem. It's good that your getting rid of that stuff, It can turn into a real mess in a hurry. Grows & spreads faster than box elder.
  35. 2 points
    You're very welcome. I love seeing all the pics everyone has. You get to see different things people have done. Love to see all the work people have put into restoring some of these gems.
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    Never assume battery cables and other connections are sound at the terminal - it's quite common for moisture to get inside the crimped area and rot the copper wire out , which will lead to a serious drop in voltage/amps . First thing I do with a new acquisition is to make new battery cables that are fully crimped/soldered/sealed with high quality solid copper ends . It eliminates headaches later and helps keep them reliable . The 520 and it's wiring issues is all down to connections that are far too light to carry the load and low-quality connectors , which is not uncommon . Due to the number of safety switches and gauges , it just makes the whole thing more complicated but by breaking down the various circuits it can be repaired . I fixed a lot of the connections in one of these a guy in town had years before owning my first Horse - that tractor was less than 3yrs old and already had wiring issues from hard use . The folks here more familiar with them have the knowledge you need and sure are a great asset to our forum....would love to own a 520HC one of these days myself . Sarge
  38. 2 points
    Here are the specs again, seems photobucket no longer lets me share them.
  39. 2 points
    54" works great on my c195 i love it
  40. 2 points
    The chains on the 1277 are the HD Peerless version in 2-link spacing . In other words , ever other side chain link there is a cross chain - it's a tighter pattern and I like that they prevent the tire from slipping between the cross chains with the 4 link spacing versions , as that shock load can damage driveline parts . The tensioners I've been using are the ATV versions sold at Tractor Supply - it's just a ring with 4 heavy duty springs with hook ends and they do work quite well . Single pattern cross chains of this style will always walk around on the tread , tensioners or not but they find their way into a pattern and stay put pretty well . Never had an issue with them other than when one of the latches broke on a cheaper set and the chain wrapped itself around the axle housing - that was a mess . I'd love to try a set of the Euro pattern and bet they would ride better on pavement than the standard single pattern version but at the time they weren't available .My newest tractor is a '74 and all those older ones had better clearance to the fenders - I know some folks have used rubber spacers to gain clearance on the newer models , especially those with the fiberglass fenders . I'll say this - I have yet to buy a set that fits the tires dead-on the first try . Tires vary so much in diameter vs brand vs tread style and the chain sets tend to be longer than needed . Angle grinder and cutting wheel or a bolt cutter fixes that to remove the excess length - I set mine pretty tight and sometimes have to alter where the ends land to keep the 2-link spacing consistent to the very ends of the pattern at the latch hooks . Not very hard to do as I bought one of the HD tire chain tools designed for 5/16" chains which fit the HD Peerless pretty well . I've had to modify the jaw tips slight by filing the teeth deeper to make them hook the chain links better to prevent slipping - it's a common issue shown on YouTube and elsewhere - the more professional line of tools such as the HK Porter brand are a better design but come with a much higher price tag . I spent a lot of time researching these tools and those big pro style tools are nice but won't fit onto the smaller class chains used on garden tractors , hence buying the blue Medium #7304 http://www.tirechain.com/Tire-Chains-Repair-Tools.htm HK Porter HD 3/8" chain version , USA made tool - https://www.amazon.com/Porter-0390MLN-Linkmaster-Repair-Tool/dp/B001FOQH5C#nav-top I've seen links to how folks have modified this tool to work on 1/4"-3/8" chains , just fyi . Without the tensioners , they just sort of "float" on the tire - but beware as said before , they can catch on some fenders . Some folks have used the method of letting the air out of the tire to an extent , installing the chain pretty tight and airing the tire back up - this sets them really tight but over time and use the chain links will stretch out some . The set on the 1277 is almost wore out but they have been in year round use for almost 10yrs now and survived a lot of hard service . A good HD set of chains in the common length to fit a 23x8.50/10.50-12 tire is pushing a $100 bill , but well worth the traction in my opinion if you deal with hills , using a blade or blower in the winter/summer and generally just need the extra traction . Hope all this helps - Sarge
  41. 2 points
    Bahmi You will find help here as you can see already. Just a note try taking pictures that always helps. Enjoy the site.
  42. 2 points
    As near as I can tell, there are basically 2 different hoops for many of the B, C, and GT Tractors, no matter the engine. Both hoops have a top leg is about 1" long. The diameter of the hoop is about 7 1/4". The bottom leg is either 3" long (for the non-cradle engines) or 1 3/4" long (for the cradle mount and plate mounted twins). Basically, it comes down to tractors made 1977 and earlier and tractors made 1978 and later. I could be wrong on this, and if I am I hope one of the more knowledgeable members will chime in. If you get ahold of the longer lower leg hoop, all you have to do is cut it off and re-drill the hole in the lower leg. If you can't find the exact one you are looking for, I have one of the long lower leg hoops that I would sell cheaply. I would only have to find the cheapest way to ship it. Hopefully for $5 or $6. Jim
  43. 2 points
    Here is a thread on doing the repair.
  44. 2 points
    The parts to raise, and lower your deck are shown here in this diagram.
  45. 2 points
    80w90 gear oil . It takes about a quart, or until it comes out of the hole on the right side of the trans case.
  46. 2 points
    You can't ride on a Mower Deck ! ........that's why it has taken me nearly a year to refurbish my Deck here in the UK ........ Progress LINK
  47. 2 points
    So good news, the pump and Hydro work great! Bad news, while the leak was indeed more noteworthy at the cam, after installing and testing the pump for functionality, it became obvious that the bottom was leaking. This area acts as reservoir for the pump and doubles as and I'm not sure this is correct terminology but what I call the transaxle. The axles and limited slip gears that mate up to the pump assembly. Not sure how long it's going to take me to accomplish this as I have a few things I need to do on other projects while I still have some summer left. I want to have it ready by the Fall. But that's more of a mini goal to keep me focused than a real need. I'm learning so that good but it is a royal PITA. Very frustrating. A couple pics of the removal surgery. Definitely would have been smarter and easier to do as part of the initial resto. But at that point I was too intimidated by the hydro.
  48. 2 points
    Sporting the big apple licence plate, no less... of course, I'm digging it James.
  49. 2 points
    $80 for media blasting and powdercoating plus the paint markers I used, I have a set that cleaned really well too second pic shows the difference between chrome and powder, Jeff.
  50. 2 points
    Some time ago, a one time Horse lover, gave me a set of hub caps. Love the baby moons!
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