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I have always wanted a sickle mower to cut ditches and banks but only have attachomatic based machines so after a little modification I put an old 50" sickle bar on my low hour 417A . I'm impressed with how well it works.

It's a little early, but the first crabbing trip looks promising for a decent season.

Buy a box of 10 for less than the part will cost. Be fixed for life https://www.mcmaster.com/#external-retaining-rings/=183hazy

If the pto is driving a mower deck the belt is in the wrong groove. The inner groove will give a higher blade tip speed. Garry

It no longer amazes me that I learn something new everyday on this forum. I've never run across these things before. My first reaction when I saw the wide groove was but a closer look told me it was made that way. Paul is being so kind to fix me up for now but I need to keep McMaster Carr in mind. A big to Paul.

We have at least another 30 trees down like that. That is just the one that found some horses.

Yup! Heavy washers, snap rings, axle keys, funky headed bolts, McMaster-Carr is DA BOMB!

That's the 520 swept forward axle correct? It's for the mower/blower PTO belt clearance, or for tie rod clearance when turned full lock, Jeff.

Perfect!!! @stevebo it needs to be 6' plus wide and 12' long. If ya find one while I'm in Hawaii just pay for it....Ill pay ya when I get back, honest 🙄 ! When I pick it up try to have that 854 tied down secure enough to make it back to my place 😎 . Mike.....

The Lawn Ranger was just missed by the branches, but there is a Charger 10 under that tree. It appeared OK based on the best look I could get, but I will find out for sure when I cut that tree up.

We ate some and picked out about 2 lb. for crab cakes.

Pics of my L107 hubs. The studs are not original.

Forget the worry Tg...just introduce yourself to Brian (Buckrancher) and make some friends...I'm pretty sure he will have a nice fire to enjoy! You may have to put up with @squonk tho!

Well, I have lots but a few to mention are: Heavy duty rear hitch. Lifting rear hitch. Snow blade stabilizer. Front hitch made from old mule drive. Ball bearing steering shaft Newer style. Ball bearing steering shaft older style. Converting all of my 520's to the older maroon style and appearance. Of course Matt's foot control kits and all of Terry's great decals. Cleat

I wanted to be the first to tell you that I have launched a new website that is appealing to the eye, easy to navigate, has an easy checkout process, and is user friendly to everyone. My new online store is Wheel Horse Parts and More. This is a new adventure for me and my web designers are asking for individual feedback as we continue to tweak the new site. In case you did not notice, I have made a slight change to my username, which is now "wheelhorseman." I invite each one of you to visit my new website. Here is a http://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com

My 314-8 starts and runs great I cut the grass last week and parked it in garage. I went to move it today and it vibrates like it's not balanced even when the deck isnt ingaged. When i cut my grass and I could feel a vibration come and go like a bad out of balance wheel going down the road on a car.i started it today and I could feel in my feet a vibration that tingles after a long time and it's at all speeds. Could it be a crank bearing ? Is the timing fixed on these command engines or can they get out of time? I removed the flywheel and cleaned it good, All the magnets are fine and I pulled off PTO and checked and bearings looks and spins ok. It starts good on the second try. but I did notice that when it starts I hear 2 snaps like the sound of a spark plug makes when it's off the plug and arcs to metal. So my question is what else could make this vibration. Timing, out of balance rod bearing or something else ??? I know it's not the deck, flywheel looks great, I haven't taken the drive belt off yet to see if that is it (Monday for that). Like I said in my other post I don't know a lot about these command engines but I'm a quick learner. Ps I did get my $25.00 wheel weights on

I think I've figured it out. If you go out to your tractor and turn the wheel all the way left. Look on the flywheel side (left) and then look underneath, you should see where the part that holds the tie rod would bind on axle if not for the notch being there. Looks like it helps with turning radius. Cory

It's the flywheel side which has the notch. My 74 C-160, 87 414-8 and 94 416-H all have the notch as well. Great question, hope we can figure this out.

I have been able to sell everything that I wanted gone. Thanks to all that purchased parts or tractors.

I'll be darned, I just checked my '86 310-8, and sure enough that notch is there on my axle too. I never noticed that before, now you've got me curious.

It was originally next to the building, and fell away from it. Good thing too, because there were four more in there! There is a small shed under that tree as well, but it is ok. The Raider 10 is in there!

Lucky it missed the bldg.

Looking pretty ominous there... any 's get harmed during this event?

Sent you a pm with Terry Wolfes phone number. I have been able to sell everything that I wanted gone. Thanks to all that purchased parts or tractors.

Lookin' good! I'm trying to think if I've seen another sickle mounted to the later generation models.... maybe a Haban... but I don't recall ever seeing an original SMS adapted. Appears right at home there and looks good. Looking forward to seeing the video.

Looking for parts for my 1045: good carburetor, original metal body fuel pump, metal fuel line from pump to carb, and air filter assembly Also the brake shield and i think one off of any round hood tractor would work I will bring along the snowblower off of it to sell and I believe it is from the early 60's for a 701 or 702. Everything moves freely as it should so it will blow snow and it is in good shape cosmetically. It needs a new cable to spin the chute. Here is a pic of the blower on the tractor. I can get more pics if interested. 1045 IS NOT for sale lol Asking $200 or willing to work out trades for some attachments such as a wheel horse plow, cultivator, disc, etc Have any questions shoot me a PM. I will be arriving at the show Thursday evening.

Thats a great idea, I would feel better doing that! budman2 Got to thinking about it and decided not to do that as I would have to swap out the hour meter also to be honest! By the way I have my tractor up for sale on this site, the 1993 520-H it is a nice tractor and everything works as it should, hate to let it go but it is happy doctor time$$$$$$$$$$$ Thanks again budman2.

Now is the time to check the oil pressure...... once that is done you will be 1/2 way there. Either you have good pressure and you have rod wear or the pressure/ volume is low and you have pump problems. Solve this problem first and then its time to put the engine on the bench if the pump is good and you have good volume. I would suggest that if you have to go into the engine that you drain the oil and keep it provided you can drain it without getting dirt with it. Pull the pan and take a rod cap off and examine it and the crank. Look for any aluminum on the crank's rod journals. Look at the oil passage in the crank. If everything looks good purchase some plastigauge and use it following its directions to determine the clearance. Your either going to come up with excessive rod to crank clearance or the pump simply isn't putting out enough volume to lubricate properly.

Here you go. The power hook up will be different if you have electronic ignition but everything else is the same.

Tonight the engine made it's way back on the frame, and got the fuel tank cleaned and painted. Working on the generator now. New carb suppossed to be here tomorrow or Saturday.

depending on how big you want it you can cut the center out of a old steel rim.

My version of the lifting rear hitch that is reversible for pin type hitches as well. It's nice because you can back up to a trailer, raise the hitch to hook on to the trailer, and off you go without getting off the tractor.

This manual will give you the wiring information you need. The "L" terminal on your ignition switch will give you key on power. Be sure to put a fuse in the line, 10 amp should do the trick.

Don't worry Mike I have been looking for you... I lovehelping other people spend they're money...

I just received my tie-rods from @wheelhorseman and couldn't wait to put them on. First I took the broken one and removed the old non-adjustable tie rod. Using it as a template, I adjusted the new adjustable tie rod and installed, then did the same for the other side. My steering wheel seemed to have been a tooth out, so while I was doing this I moved the steering wheel one tooth which corrected that. Then I did my measuring tape alignment, and gave it a very slight tow in for easier steering. Hopefully it doesn't wander, but if it does, the tie-rods are adjustable I can fix it. These tie-rods are very good quality and really tightened up the steering. I haven't painted them yet, but I suspect that the rod itself should be painted to prevent rust. Thank you to Lowell for making such a good product, and for the added bonus in the box. I gave it a good test fit and it's perfect, thank you so much that's the last missing part and I had a snowball's chance of finding it! If anyone is interested you can visit his new store at https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com and pick up a set of tie rods or other very heavy duty reproduction parts!

One in every crowd

I'll try it on a steering wheel roll pin. If it works on that , it will work on anything. Jim

Tonight I mounted the SMS425 to my 855. Seems a little noisy, I think in need to make a new pin to connect the wobble box to the sickle knives. Hoping to go and try it out tomorrow.

In the years prior to Toro what models of Wheel Horse tractors were not made by Wheel Horse? I know Dixie Chopper made the larger zero turn. I think I heard someone (maybe MTD) made some rear engine riders? I tried searching the forums but didn't pull up anything. This is all stemming from a Facebook conversation where a guy is claiming a 200 series wasn't made by Wheel Horse, which I know is of course not true. I'm just trying to find a definitive list of what wasn't made by them.

Steve, just to clarify the nomenclature: The term DD or double D refers to the two flats on the spindle ends and the matching shape of the hole in the pulleys and blades. The single outboard pulleys and the two sheave center pulley will have this shape. You can see this shape in Dave's picture above. Having said that, according to the manual that Garry posted above, your deck does not have the DD type spindles. I am not sure if your spindles have the replaceable bearings Some of the spindles require a bearing/shaft assembly. Here is another picture of a DD type spindle and pulley.

Mine were like that one time after re-assembly. I had em on the wrong side.....Worth checking before ordering.

Without the return spring, the pedal and it's portion of the linkage will be resting its weight against the combined brake and drive control linkages. For either, the system is designed to have the spring pull the pedal and it's linkages away from the rest of the mechanical action so there's no opposing input. Best to put the correct spring tension on it. It'll at least remove one of the variable factors from troubleshooting it. (Operate the motion control while holding the pedal all the way up with your toe, or maybe a bungee cord. Does the motion control behave better?)

Pretty sure the 1973 8hp no name used 10" rear wheels with that type hub. There is a dog point screw that holds the shifter. Here's a pic, you can see where the screw goes at the front of the shifter. The screw is laying on top of the transmission.

Your way out of our league Cleat ... I never get tired of seeing your work.....nice!

E-141 was made by Wheel Horse as were the electric rear engine riders. The other electric Wheel Horse models were just GE Electraks painted red.

I never thought about that being misunderstood but there it is clear as day! Sorry. Meant to say using it, sitting on it, when it's subzero cracks it. Not just the cold but asking it to flex when I plop my toush on it when it's Not ready to flex cracks it. Using it when it's cold cracks it. Not just the cold cracks it.

Answer to a question I have had for a long time.

Hose raceways welded in the tool box. Made the patch for the fender and got it tacked in place. Still more metal pecking to do.

Fit test of the bumper/ hydraulic tank before making the pump bracket and hood support. Then on to the hose connections.

Seems this old ad campaign... will have a whole new meaning now.