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It looks like this Two Owner 1994 520H with 729 hrs will be coming home to THE Duke"O" minium. This will end up being my Loader Tractor when a ARK 500 will be fitted to her. What I need a loader for with a 100' X 150' City Lot is beyond me? Maybe unloading the groceries or salt for the softener!

Getting my brand new mid mount grader blade painted so it can be mounted soon!

It is with a heavy heart I write this post, and I was undecided which forum to use. I decided to use this one hoping it may help prevent another tragic accident. I am not looking for sympathy and I will not relate details. Last week I lost a friend and neighbor in a tragic accident. He was the active 79 year old owner/ operator of a one man excavating business that would do anything for anyone at any time. He was similar to many on this forum, A devout Christian, Sunday School teacher, Inventor, and capable of building anything that he wanted or needed. Including a flying machine, a snowmobile, and was presently building a snow thrower for his skid steer. He made several visits to my shop recently collecting information from my throwers. He will be missed by me and hundreds of others in Southern York Co. Pa. Rest peacefully my friend. For all my friends on Red Square, Please use care and respect when working around flammables in your shops.

Just another day at the lake in South Central Pa.

If you have it welded, the heat MAY make the repair itself brittle and subject to further cracking. If the weld repair involves adding on a thicker reinforcement plate, don't weld the plate to the back side as that will alter the required belt length. Better to weld a plate on the inside if that's how you intend to repair it. HOWEVER.... here is a BULLET PROOF method that requires no welding. Use 2 bits of 1 /4 " 2x2 angle iron about 6" long. Cut away the top edge of one piece and fit it into place as in 3rd pic. Transfer hole locations of the transmission case to the angle iron...then drill the two 3/8 holes in angle iron. Test fit to trans case and bolt in using 2 bolts, about 3/8 longer than original. Once in plate and bolted tight, drill 1/8 pilot holes from outside edge...open the up to 3/8. Using 4 bolts with Nylok nuts, bolt the outside corner of the trans plate to the angle iron. Repeat on other side... When done and all bolted together TIGHT,, then you can trim off the excess angle iron with a sawzall....or notl An important part of this is the location of the 2x4 wood block. Jack up the rear of the tractor and let it down again onto this block, just at the front edge of the transmission case. This 'leverage' will 'pinch' closed the broken frame plate, forcing it back to original position.

May as well put a ho on the back. Then you can dig holes and fill em up.

Someone on here said the other day, "If you need it you probably wouldn't want it." & that new loader will look better on that 520 than sitting on your shop floor! Very nice scores, both of them!!!!

1/4 20 x 1/2 inch work. i tend to use flange head versions they are less like likely to loosen up (I use 5/8" long)

For years I have gone to the Wheel Horse show where everyone is of course biased toward that make. But going to a show such as Olde Tyme Days, or Steam-O-Rama where many makes are represented, gives you a whole different perspective. Owners of Cubs, AC's, Deere's, Bolens, etc., will tell you what is best about their machines. You will walk away with a lot of information. Though we all love our horses, many of us have other makes in the shed as well.

Just guessing Jim....female powered trolling motor.

Found this over the weekend, L-157, Everything works great, rearend supper quite, Just needa Hood and decide how I want it to look

You could have a truckload of play sand delivered to the front yard and move oi to the back yard; and then reverse the process. nice find, you will have fun with it, that is the NEED that will be fulfilled!

Egbert arrived yesterday.

Today's stamped steel big box store disposable junk is what we don't think of as a quality garden tractor. A lot of them are made by MTD. They are built to last a few years and be replaced. The MTD brand is much maligned in the garden tractor collection world, yet at one time they too built some good quality equipment. I just happen to prefer .

http://www.rubbertirechains.com/ Keep in mind that Mr. Esh is Amish and, I believe, he has someone else handle the phone calls. Here is the information from the website: ADDRESS J Esh Manufacturing 557 Sawmill Rd New Providence, PA 17560 PHONE (717) 983-0123 (Retail orders & questions) (717) 786-6063 (Wholesale/dealer orders) FAX (717) 786-7221

These are the knurled thumb screws that are used to mount the hoods on the early 60s wheel horse tractors. The part number 1346 is the longer screw that was used to mount the hood at the front of the tractor to the frame. The part number 1345 was used to mount the hood to the fuel tank. On the 953 and 1054 there was 4 of the part number 1345 used to mount the hood. I have these for sale they are made of Stainless Steel they will not rust and they will not seize in the aluminum fuel tank. I am selling them individually for $8.50. A set of 3 screws for $20.00 , 2 of part number 1345 the shorter one and 1 of 1346 the longer one for the round hood tractors. A set of 4 screws for $25.00, these are 4 of part number 1346 the shorter ones for the 953 and 1054. If you would like to order these email me at aztractor255@gmail.com or you can call me at 1-717-821-2542. I will need your full name and address for shipping thank you. The cost of shipping is $3 in the us. I can ship internationally also.

Washing wheel horse's that's what! Lol they actually begged me to scrub the grime off the 520! Doing a great job I might add! Haha

Traded a cub cadet for these two yesterday. The rj58 is all complete and runs. The guy said the seat cover was the original to. The rj35 has seen some neglect, but think the cast iron steering wheel is pretty neat.

SEEMS LIKE THE HORSES HAD THING FIGURED OUT, THE PEOPLE WERE ALONG FOR THE RIDE. Sorry about the all caps, wasn't shouting, just fat finger caps lock.

Ditto all of the above posts of the Guy's principles and methods. I also tend to be meticulous with checking fit/wear or Go/No go on any engine etc. I also set myself challenges and measure by 'Feel' with inside/outside calipers, then take measurements from those. I then compare with Hole Gauges and Mic's etc to see how close I can discern accuracy by feel. I have a number of items I use regularly for many jobs (Hobby), some of which are shown below. The Lever type Dial Indicator is 69 years old and still good for 5/10,000ths of an inch, or better. I also use it for setting Techy Timing BTDC of the Piston. The Engineer's Blue (paste) assists with highlighting High spots or wear points on Bearing/Crank Journals etc. Nothing in this pic is less than 30 years old- Like most Tools, you get what you pay for and it depends how often you will have a use for them that will dictate what you pay. If you know the source, you could also buy secondhand and obtain high quality measurement tooling for less money. Whatever you get, enjoy using them and get those engines running smooth and sweet.

Takes a fair amount of practice to be accurate with any precision measuring device. I can get a general idea of the condition of a cylinder by using an old piston ring and checking the end gap and looking for light getting by the side of the ring at various points down thy cylinder. Push it down an inch at a time using the old piston so you know it is square to the cylinder. If the bore seems to be needing attention then the machine shop will have to measure it anyway. The caliper will give you a good indication for cranks, but if you use a bit of plastigage that will tell you how well the rod is fitting.

Is interesting to see all the fancy rigs , 2 stage , Cabs lights etc 20 hp units.. Some of it looks to be overkill for the driveways involved. But these two simple old horses no cabs stock lights, a blade and short chute single stage blower did all this. Mind you the snow was much deeper on Wednesday (26 inches). I just took these. They cleared from the road all the way down to the barn with the snow on the roof and in front of the workshop. still had to work today as the snow slid of the workshop roof. Only real issues were the belt broke on the blower, I had to tight up the PTO clutch. and the hydro lift handle fell of the plow tractor (cotter pin failure)

Rearranged the garage after I got all the tractors out this weekend. Needed the couch in the back. I kinda like it this way.. for now! Ha and we built a shelf for my toy tractors so my wife could stop complaining they were taking up the DVD shelves in the house lol

Good to see you back on here Duke. Good looking 520 for your loader project. Wayne

You need to buy a bigger place so you have more room to play...a.. I mean work..

Just picked these two up this afternoon. A few fixed wires, carb cleaning, couple fresh batteries and they're up and running. 1973 8 4speed and 1975 b100 8speed....900 for the pair.

!! AND...... nobody got sued!!

God I hope so. I've got a lot of work to do. Some involving tractors.

I would recommend going to tractor shows that have garden tractors there. Talk to the owners, get a close look at each brand, look at the features and construction of each. Visit the various brand specific websites, i.e. www.wfmachines.com for John Deere, and Only Cub Cadets for Cubs, or Simple Tractors for Simplicitys, Case/Colt/Ingersol website(s), etc. I'm a John Deere and Wheel Horse guy, but I can appreciate all brands as each has their pros and cons. I can tell you what I like about each, but it's best to check them out your self so you can get a first hand knowledge of each. One thing you will noticed is that the older GTs are built to last with more steel, heavier construction, etc. than the newer GTS which have more plastic, more aluminum, etc.

I have used several single stage throwers on my horses over the years, mostly on C120 or C125 and never had any good luck. It would only throw it just past the end of the blower. Then I bought my 2 stage blower and around the same time got my first 520 and never looked back. It will throw wet slush up to 8 foot and wet snow 20 foot plus. Then several years ago I inherited my dad's low shoot single stage blower. I put it on a 416-H and it did a pretty good job on a 12" snow fall we had. I then found a tall shoot set up and converted it over. Last year I had it mounted on a 520-H for the blizzard we had but unfortunately I did not have chains on it and the tractor was worthless with out the chains. So I bought chains but never got to use it again till this past week. It performed real good on the driveway till I hit the slush at the end of the driveway. Then it clogged up several times, so I put it away and got the 2 stage out. the snow was so wet that on occasion when I forced to much snow in to it to fast, it even clogged up once or twice. So while the single stage will get the job done, the 2 stage will get it done faster and easier. Another personal observation is with the single stage blower the more snow and the faster you can push it into it the further you will throw it. with that being said that takes horse power, the more horse power the better off you are. last year with the blizzard my 2 stage cut through that like a hot knife through butter eric j

When it comes to GT's they all have their features that make them desirable in one way or another. I grew up with Cub Cadets, they are quality tractors with some very good features. Bolens had their tube frames and shaft drive implements, Wheel Horse with their strong frame, trans and serviceability, John Deere's had their name & green paint. One thing you'll notice is that with all the brands of tractors, you'll only see a few different engines. I am a Kohler engine fan, so I tend to lean towards tractors that have a Kohler in them.

The only thing I see better about the 2stage is in my limited experience with it was that my chute "never" clogged in the DOT plow banks or the wet sleet topped 24"+ we got last January, other than that my tall chute single always came through in several 2' snowfalls over the 15+ years before especially on dirt/gravel driveways (that I doubt I would ever run my rebuilt 2stage over), again just my personal experiences, and as for the cab it really is more "pleasant" to blow snow as you don't wear what your chucking vs without it, mine is still all manually controlled and no extra lighting, just a dry comfortable shelter doing a not so pleasant job, Jeff.

So the C-121 I picked up a few weeks ago has patiently been waiting for some attention. First order of business was to check out the drive belt idler pulley ( it's a wee-bit loud) . Good grief!! How long do ya think it was going bad!! Second thing was to get rid of the plastic wheel weights.....check out the mouse nest that was inside a rear rim ....can you image how the mouse felt after going round and round for an hour while the tractor operator mowed their lawn! Mike....

Glad to see the kids enjoying the ! Today was my little guy's first time on mine!

Nice score.Gotta ask about the quick growing corn in the back ground ,pretty good height for March corn

Those new factory replacement shaft seals were not much better than the original seals I removed, I found some industrial "flat" o-rings (on the right) that were firmer and snugger fitting and have not seen any sign of leakage yet, Jeff.

Well my hopes for a simple repair were answered as soon as I had the case open a half an inch . Dry as a bone and ground to a pulp . This is my own fault and I can't believe I did something this stupid . I replaced sprockets , chains and auger bushings and did not check the gear case . Dry as a bone and I don't like the looks of one thing inside including the case . Well I found all the parts I need to do the whole thing . A case off Ebay along with gears ,bushings and seals for the auger shaft . The impeller shaft worm gear comes with the other gears set everything else on that shaft was ordered new . The only parts that will not be replaced are the big shaft and the two thrust washers on either side of the bronze gear . The whole thing cost me $ 260.00 . Today I got my truck out of the snow thanks to my 518XI with the plow . Kurt if you read this I was looking at the pictures you sent me and it looks like you cleaned up the mating surfaces of the gear box on a flat surface . Am I right ?

Gonna be nice!

I just love winter...I wish it was all year long. Hibernation is the key word here...and less then 12 hours of day light. I hate going to bed when it still light out. Don't ask me what you can do with the time change.

Spring is around the corner here in Pa. Or several corners. Wed, 3/15/17 Thur. 3/17/17 Mon, 3/20/17

My uncle use to say, young'uns if you ain't got none, get you some.

This is the one to attend! http://www.wheelhorsecc.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=2

and a cig lighter right in back of it?!?!?

Thanks All! Its all original Mike it has some road rash here and there but not bad overall for a 23 year old machine.

Ceramic flap disks on the 4-1/2" Metabo - goes quickly and the ceramic doesn't create nearly as much heat . If you decide to try these wheels do not use a lot of down pressure or you'll burn it and they won't cut . Best performance I've found so far is from CGW (Camel Grinding Wheels) . For polishing/cleaning they now make a non-woven surface conditioning flap disks in 3 grades - love those things ! Sarge

Nice machine,,, awaiting the build thread!

My Pal Ray Baker called me today. He said he was digging out from the 2' of snow in SHENANDOAH, PA and he got to thinking of the King of Snow Chuckers! Its always nice to catch up with Tractor Bud's. Since I am into doing a Ark 500 Loader Project Ray sent me more Pictures of his and asked me to post them for him here on Red Square. Ray Said " Duke could post a couple of my tractor pics on Redsquare and let them know I'm still alive. See Ya, Ray" So here we go Ray;s GT14 and Ark 500 LOADER This was purchased from his Bosses Wife after he passed away last year Ray worked for many many years for him and they were good friends. ~Duke

I can't find the sales receipt, but I still have it somewhere. I payed $2200 for The C-120 8 speed with a 48" deck and tub cart was a special deal. Had to get a bank loan, I think the payments were $78 a month. All the bearing and bushings have been replaced even add oilite bushings on the PTO shaft and the clutch shaft. 3500# trailer wheels and hubs with heims joints on the tie rods. The fan gear shaft has been changed to one with a nut and carter key. I have also added a 2" receiver and a front bumper. The deck has been rebuilt three time had Double Ds then 3/4" keyed, and now metric spindles. The pressed steel deck pulleys I have worn out two sets. The last set got so bad it wouldn't cut high grass. I took the Double D cast Iron pulleys had the board out and sleeved down to 5/8" had to face off some of the top. Had a drawing of what was required but that computer is dead. Added dogwood rollers with oillite bushings. It's still mowing 2 acres after 40 years.

You would have to have the pump up to some minimum RPM to build enough pressure to turn the wheels. I am not sure what that minimum is. I test non running hydro tractors by chaining them to a tree and driving the hydro with a long belt and a running tractor positioned behind the non runner.