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The weather is going to be great this week so i figured I'd get a jump on spring cleaning and organizing. Now I can get back to my rj 35 resto and finish my daughters engine on her suburban. (Yes there are 2 off brands in the back) 7 are wheel horses.

Decided to take a couple pics of the 1257 on my lunch break of the horse. Idled it for 15 min.

Seems like the warm weather (70 degrees here in PA) has brought out some WH from the sheds. I've been watching a 418-A on CL for about a month now, but the seller was asking way too much. This weekend, I went to see it because the weather was good. I made him a reasonable offer on, much lower than he was asking. He said he'd consider it, then phoned me a few hours after I got home, and accepted my offer. Includes a nice 418-A with 680 hours, a 48" plow, weights & chains, 4 hub caps, a 48" rear-discharge deck, and a Craftsman garden cart for $800. The 418A came with owner's manual, sales brochure, and service records. It only needs some adjustments, no repairs. PO was an elderly gentleman who has his grandson cut his grass for him now (with a newer, yellow mower). I also noticed a rusty old B-100 with four flat tires sitting nearby, and they said I could have it for another $50. It will probably be just a 'parts tractor', but has some parts I need. Seems like people are taking advantage of the good weather to clean out their garages and barns, so there are deals to be found. A friend gave me a 1968 WH snow thrower just to get it out of his shed.

Added another Horse to the stable today. . 312-Hydro, just fresh off the truck, no cleaning or bath yet. The Kohler 12 HP Magnum starts right up.

Mrs K just walked by and saw your shop. Now, thanks to your pictures, I may have to get rid of a 50 year collection of treasures and clean up my shops.

Black Electrical tape over the light

I got my front and rear wheel weights on today and also my front weight mount. Then I decided to put the new stack on.

Found a pair of early narrow rims and tyres in my store and decided to clean them up for my C120 tractor for ploughing hoping they will give me more traction. ive cleaned them with a wire brush on a electric drill, i let the air out and put an old drive belt in the bead to stop getting paint on the tyre and a piece of hose in the other. theyve both had a heavy coat of red oxcide and will be left for a few days before primer and top colour.

In all fairness to our comrades here , let's keep the Google monster out of this . Rules : You must "quote" the question you're answering. The person with the correct answer gets to ask the next question . Questions should be "general" in nature ( sports,geography,music etc...) If you get the chance to post a question , you must be able to check in at least every 24 hours to see if there's an answer posted. If we keep this on a reasonable level , this could be a cool little game . What does NASA stand for ?

I'll be done with my 57 rj 35 this spring and can't decide if I should restore my 56 or keep it original. It's not that bad, but the recoil is a different color and the belt cover is in primer.

With the nice warm temps in upstate NY yesterday my son and I decided to see if the C-120 that was given to me last summer actually ran. After repairing a broken wire from key switch to the solenoid and cleaning and lubing the bendix drive it turned over fine. Checked for spark, that was nice and strong. Fuel took some creativity and we finally settled on a temporary gravity feed to see if the carb was leak free and was in any sort of working order. The throttle cable had been disconnected as the anchor bracket was not attached to the block. So, we just turned up the idle, added some gas and hit the key. Ten seconds of cranking and the slightest breath of starting fluid and it was running. Smiles all around ( 🍻 also). Encouraged by how well the engine ran and sounded we decided to jack up the rear end and see if the hydro worked, on the jacks the wheels had forward and reverse motion, more smiles. Off the jacks, on the ground, butt on the seat, ease the lever forward and away we went. Forward and reverse, smooth and quiet. Anyway, now it will be put back in storage until I come back from FL in April. Just knowing that the major parts are working is encouraging, and we are looking forward to getting into it in depth over the summer. Are rebuild kits available for the fuel pump? Seems as though I saw them somewhere when looking for carb kits for my chainsaws...can't seem to locate them now. Might just go for a new replacement, probably a better use of $ and time. Looks like they can be had for $30-40. Time for research. Will enjoy that while anticipating getting back into the machine when I return. Have to figure out how to post pics. Will keep you posted.

First thing is to make sure that you have good ground connections from the battery to the frame, frame to the engine, and regulator to the frame. Next, use your multi-meter to see what your charging voltage is. Connect your probes to the (+) and (-) of the battery. With the engine OFF, the battery voltage should be around 12VDC. With the engine running, you have have at least 13.5 VDC. If not, check the stator voltage. You should have 38 to 45 volts AC from the stator.

For those of you that opened this wondering what is a McLean, here is a link to some history on the tractor. It is also the most information that I have found on the McLean.http://www.tractorfriends.org/lawngardentractors/mccleangardentractors/mccleangardentractors.html Last year when I bought my Suburban 400 I also saw this strange little tractor sitting off to the side. I had no idea what it was but my interest was peaked. I took a couple pic's then kinda forgot about it for a while. Eventually it came back into my thoughts and I decided to do some research to find out what it was. I posted my pic's on here hoping some one would recognize it but I seemed to have every one stumped. After a few days of searching I finally found a picture of one on the net. Great! I thought, now I can find some info. Well there just isn't a lot of info out there on these thing, unfortunately. I did manage to find the owner of the one in the link that I posted above. He's a great guy, I spent some time on the phone with him and he was willing to send me some pic's to help me out with my project. Below are pics of when I brought my McLean home. Really rough shape, probably not worth fixing but it's a rare tractor so I was willing to give it a shot. A tractor needs an engine so I started there first. The K90 that was in the tractor was locked up of course, but after a month of dumping ATF down the plug hole two times a week it broke free. All of the tins and the bearing plate were junk so I started to look for parts. Then I found a K91 close buy and decided to go with that engine instead. I will tackle the K90 another time. There are many great engine rebuild posts on here so I'm going to keep mine real simple. 1 2 3 Next was the tear down on the rest of the tractor. Most of this went well, a PO had made a lot of changes that I had to cut out. I will share those as I go along on this resto. First thing that I tackled was the front end. The steering shaft had an aluminum pulley on one end and an aluminum steering wheel on the other, both of which were locked on to the shaft. i decided to cut the shaft in half so I could deal with removing the pulley & wheel on the bench. The steering wheel I did not remove because it is wrong anyway, but I needed the pulley. A little wax and some heat helped start to get things moving and then "Sha doobie Shattered Shattered". Well I have no way of casting aluminum but I did find a nice chunk of aluminum stock laying in my garage. It was 3 1/4" dia, I needed 2 1/8" dia. Time to make some shavings. Finished product next to original. A PO also cut part of the steering arms off that will be required for the differential to work. I made new pieces and reinforced the axle where it was worn. Then carefully measured and lined things up so I could weld every thing back together. Removing the old steering arm was great fun! Front end mocked up and looks ready for paint. Next it is on to the transmission. What to do with this mess?!

You do know...this trivia crap is all rigged... but, hopefully somebody learned something here today.

This is a big guess... Abbott and Costello?

Good tip on using a belt or hose! I have used a bunch of index cards overlapping one-another to keep paint off the tires, but this also allows some paint to go inside the lip of the rim.

FYI @stevasaurus with some other members did a nice job documenting the steps needed for working on that 3 piece transmission when you get to that. You came to the right place for everything Wheel Horse.

Give me a minute Digger. I'm cleaning the carburetor on the raffle tractor for the big WHCC show, while writing an example of fielders obstruction for John. Multi-tasking at it's finest. An example of fielders obstruction is this. A batter hits a fair ball grounder to the first baseman. Rather than tag the bag, he runs toward the batter (now runner) who is within the designated lines on the outside of the first base path. However, the fielder runs into the running lane, blocking the runner from advancing. The fielder is allowed to reach into that area to tag, but not block the runner. Batter/Runner takes first.

In most cases they really don't because they are so often changed. WH used calcium chloride to fill the front tires for weight so that rotted the majority of the early tractor rims. The rims are no big deal unless going for that complete factory restore. I just thought since you were down to the details about the tank, might as well put the other stuff out there too. Some people want it 100% exactly perfect, others don't care at all but most people fall somewhere in between those 2 . Even if you don't go to that extreme, it's still nice to have the info. @MikesRJ did a full blown factory correct RJ-58 restore and did a nice write up on many steps he took along the way. Plenty of good documented info for any RJ restore.

Mix up some Rustoleum Regal Red, about 15% Leather Brown, and just a pinch of White. Play with the mix until you get close to the original faded color. You have to let a sample of each trial mix dry completely to see how it will turn out. Good luck, Jim

Here's a shot of mine. The choke is connected with a rod. You pull back on the lever to choke it. That seems somewhat backwards to me but that's how it was done. The throttle cable is looped to come up to the linkage on the governor.

Yep, he's hooked... ...congratulations Grandpa, job well done.

Beautiful restoration right there.

Here's the rear end pic I took at same time had to delete a couple attachments so I had more room.

The first step in curing any electrical problem is to clean and tighten all electrical connections including grounds and the base of the voltage regulator where it is bolted. The magneto has nothing to do with charging, there is a separate set of coils for that. There are a couple of wires coming from the engine to the regulator, you should read about 36 volts AC between the two wires.

Can't get any better than that! You are one lucky Grandpa and he is one lucky Grandson!

Well, after owning and neglecting the tractor for a couple of decades, it looks like I have lost possession of it in a single day! Our 6 year old grandson actually skipped going to The Pizza Ranch so he could come out and clean his new tractor, lol He worked on it for at least 3 or 4 hours this afternoon! Doesnt run, but sure is clean!!!

5xi attachments are out there, especially in the Midwest. Also look for New Holland attachments that fit their GT20-GT22 series as they are a 5xi in blue paint.

One other thing, if you do any sanding or grinding be sure to wear a respirator, not a dust mask. Never heat or weld a galvanized piece without a supplied air respirator.

Here is what my father taught me over 50 years ago. He used to work with galvanized steel in the boiler trades. Galvanization is the process of coating metal with zinc, either hot dip or cold dip. If galvanized steel is just dirty, clean it as you would anything else. However, if it is has red oxide (rust) the zinc coating has been breached and it must be treated as any rusted steel by removing the rust, priming and painting. If it only has small white deposits, that is zinc oxide and it can be cleaned with acetic acid. If a significant portion of the item is covered with white deposits, it may not be possible to thoroughly clean it. After cleaning with acetic acid, thoroughly rinse with clean water and dry. If you are going to paint it, an etching primer must be used on the zinc before applying your regular primer and paint.

Hi gang I'd like to introduce myself as the proud owner of a '74 C100 and a Wheel Horse enthusiast overall. I think Wheel Horse machines are some of the most handsome and classic little tractors ever made. I'm new to this game and have a thousand things to ask and learn. My C100 is in great mechanical shape but there are a few cosmetic items I'd like to find. To tell you a little about myself I have spent a lot of time messing around with old Fords of the Flathead V8 era. I have a pretty nice '41 Coupe and lots of Ford parts squirreled around my shop and sheds. I have always loved tractors and especially the little ones and now I have one! In fact as much as I tried to resist I think I have been bitten by the bug I guess. Tomorrow I'm going to look at a 1967 857 that needs help. I'll try to post a pick of the C100. Fingers crossed......

Everything is available to make that little guy like brandy new again. Gotta say...that original "patina" is hard to replicate though.

...it's supposed to be fun.

I guess I'm gonna really stir the pot here,when you guys post those pics of your nicly rebuilt tractors I just smile,these arnt worth tens of thousands of dollars,so do what will make you hsppy,but I am talking about nice restorations,not sprayed paint over decals and grease,a proper job with nive new decals from terry and your good to go

I learned the date Epcot center opened and that a Charger can be a horse in a parade or one used in battle

Pulled from another post going on right now about a Suburban. Shynon says use boiled linseed oil. He was right it seems to dry after awhile and dust and stuff will wash right off. also; be safe! Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) is a common item in my shop and in a lot of woodworker’s shops. It is a great oil treatment for woods, leaving a smooth touch on the surface. It revitalizes old dried wood and gives it a new life. Copyright: / 123RF Stock Photo BLO is often mixed with other finishes and was once one of the main ingredients in most paints. There are still companies that make linseed oil paints like Allback if you’re interested. Boiled Linseed Oil is not actually “boiled” like the name suggests, rather it is chemically modified to encourage faster drying. Slow drying oils are a good thing, but regular linseed oil can take weeks or even months to fully cure in cold weather and that’s just too stinking long. Boiled Linseed Oil will dry in only a few days give or take depending on weather. As awesome as this product is for both wood and metal it has some dangers (specifically flammability) that need to be addressed in order to use it safely. Let’s talk about safety first. Boiled Linseed Oil Safety The hard truth is that Boiled Linseed Oil can spontaneously combust if stored or used improperly. “Why on earth would you use it then?” Well, gasoline is a lot more flammable than BLO and I don’t hear anyone calling their cars a death trap (except Corvair owners). Here’s what happens: BLO cures by a chemical reaction with the surrounding oxygen in the air not by evaporation like water based finishes. This reaction generates heat like most chemical reactions. The heat generated can be intense in certain circumstances and can lead to spontaneous combustion. Larger amounts of BLO create greater heat. Smaller quantities generate less heat. How to Avoid Fires Always store BLO in metal containers. You can pour it into plastic containers for temporary use, but for long term storage it should be in a metal container. Any rags soaked with BLO should be laid flat on a non-flammable surface away from flammable items until they are completely dry or they can be placed in a metal container with water. The most common source of BLO fires is from a wadded up rag that has been soaked in BLO. The rag is wadded up and thrown in the trash with wood dust, newspapers or other kindling. Since it is wadded up it generates more heat because there is no air to pass over it and cool it. It then heats up to the flash point of the surrounding materials and the fire starts.

Thanks for the pictures mike. They will definitely give me something to go by on comparing mine. You wouldn't happen to know the length of the gas tank would you? My tank looks like it might be longer compared to the one in your picture. I really do appreciate the detailed info. Half the fun of restoring a old tractor is learning about them to. I try to challenge myself to restore one as close to original as I can.

Some people have used the Carroll Stream diesels and didn't report issues. i would want to know if they have ball bearing on the crank shaft or at least some thrust bearing to take the end loading of a WH PTO. If not you cold use an electric PTO but I personally do not care for the sudden engagement of the electric PTO

If it were mine I would leave original and find the parts needed in correct color to make it all original. Sometimes it's the fun of the hunt.

1. A base on balls (walk) 2. Hit by pitch 3. Fielder's choice 4. Reach on error 5. Catchers interference 6. Fielders obstruction 7. Strike out and catcher drops ball, runner reaches safely

Little late to this thread, but just saw it. I tried using the 5/16x 3/4 bolts on the first 3 piece transmission I redid and they hit on something and caused it to lock up.

You can keep doing that... or, simply become a supporter here, then post all the picts you like. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/category/1-redsquare-support/

And I would only do it outside with a fan directly on it dissipating the fumes immediately...

We require pictures, it's a rule The rj 58's are fun!

I like the idea, but the "Honor System" may be a bit of a challenge around here. What the heck; give it a go!

That's Pretty bad. My serial was forever gone so I did this thanks to another decal from Terry.

btw,,, We have 4 grandsons total. Three of them are tractor nuts (pretty sure the 4 month old is going to be as well... he's just not talkin about it yet...lol) The 10 year old grandson was busy riding the Speedex S24 while the 6 year old and I dug the Wheel Horse out. Hope you dont mind a pic of it ... the Suburban is in background... first time it has seen daylight in the 25 years.

Yup. you've got a 1960 Suburban 400 there. I must say a very nice example too. The first thing to do, as Major mentioned, is to pull the shifter and check the shift forks. In neutral they should look like this: Simply use a screwdriver to reposition them if they don't. Put the shifter back on making sure the dog point setscrew hits the hole on the 'donut'. Tighten it just until you feel resistance as you shift it through the gears then back off just a fuzz and, while holding the set screw (1/8* allen wrench) in place tighten the lock nut. The 1/4-20 lock nut isn't shown in the picture. That should free up the transmission. If it doesn't or the forks are already in that position don't force things. Let us know what you find. These transmissions are really quite simple and you'll find all the help you need right here. The 400's originally had a Kohler K-91 on them but some had Clintons that could have been leftovers from the earlier RJ's. The Suburban 550's had Tecumseh's with electric start. Other than that they were identical. I'm not seeing any signs of ever having a battery mounted under the seat so I'd have to stick with saying a 400. OK, let's just leave it at that for now. There's much more but one step at a time. Keep us posted and most of all have fun with your grandpa/grandson project.

That's right on 953nut....it produces phosgene gas ( such as was used in WW 1)...you don't want to breathe that stuff...

I found this thread while searching for info on throttle cables, since I am starting from scratch with no idea. Thought I would share.. I have 2 sources for Suburban throttle reproduction assemblies. There is a guy in central Ohio who makes them - he is actually half an hour from me, but I had already ordered an assembly from the other source - so I do not know of the quality or price. The other guy, in Michigan, charges $90+shipping. The majority of the assembly is stainless steel, and he will engrave your serial number on the plate. I did not know my original serial number, so I went with my nephew's birthdate since I am building my Suburban for him. If anyone is ever interested in these, PM me for contact info. I did not ask either guy about sharing or passing their info on, so I will not post it publicly. How long of a piece of throttle cable do I need for my K91 throttle cable? Any suggestions on the choke rod?