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Hi , I'm new here just signed up a minute ago. I just got my first Workhorse Gt 1800. I've been waiting for that phone call since 1984 (I was born in 1983) and it finally came. My uncle said it was all mine if I wanted to make the 700 mile trip. An hour after that I was hooked up to my trailer and heading north. He hardly ever used it and it never spent a night outside. He gave me a mower deck , rototiller and a snow plow with it. It had sat in his garage untouched for 22 years. When I got to his house he said "I'm giving this to you under one condition, send me a video of you driving it someday when you get it running. The tractor meant a lot to him and to me. So I drove straight home and the next day I had it running like new. Sent him the video and he was as excited as an 80 year old can get. He has every piece of paper and manual that came with it since new in a binder. What I'm wondering is what other attachments are there for it and what model tractor would use the same attachments. Any information is greatly appreciated. Since I got this one I've been looking for more. I've always been in to tractors and the like but never could afford much more than old craftsmans. But now I got the bug for these. Thanks.

Although my C-121, commonly known as the Black Horse, has ag tyres fitted, these are 8-50's. They do tend to be a bit wide for ploughing. Narrower tyres, like 600x12's, would be better. The main problem to fitting narrow rear wheels over here in Merry England, is their scarcity. At the end of last year, I acquired a pair of 700x12's plus tubes, as new, for the bargain price of £80. Roughly a saving of £140. So what to do with them? The answer to that question? Well, widening wheels is very common, I'll just go he opposite way. Took a couple of spare wheels to an engineering shop and in exchange for a few beer tokens, I ended up with six wheel parts. The pieces cut out from the centre, I cut once so they could be sprung out to fit round the two wheel parts, to locate them. Then they were tack welded to form a band. A G clamp was used to hold the band in place while welding. Moving it round for every weld. A sash clamp held the two halves together. The welds were ground down level with the band top, then filler was applied and smoothed so no sharp edges. Finally tape was wrapped round. The next job was to clean up the wheels ready for painting. Unfortunately the damp weather and lack of capacity of my compressor for big jobs, rendered my blast cabinet useless. So out with electric drill and rotary wire brushes. Not a bad result. Onward and upward and applied two coats of primer followed by one of grey top. No way was I going to struggle fitting the tyres and tubes, so off to a tyre fitters I went this morning. OOOH! Chunky. Final job is to mask the tyres and apply more coats of silver top coat. BTW. I forgot to mention. I drilled out the valve holes to accept the tubes valve stems.

I took a couple of the drawings floating around here on RS, and made some 3D models. From that I made 2D drawings. I enjoy making the 3D models, the 2D drawings not so much, but from the 3D models , it isn't too bad to create the 2D drawings. The fun part is creating the 3D models though. These were pretty basic and simple. Below are the Front Blade Lift Link drawing, the second one is of the clevis hitch, and the third is the dual wheel adapter. Keep in mind, these are my drawings, but they're based on what was floating around here on RS for quite some time. Front Blade Lift Links.pdf Clevis Hitch.pdf Dual Wheel Adapter.pdf

One other thing, if you do any sanding or grinding be sure to wear a respirator, not a dust mask. Never heat or weld a galvanized piece without a supplied air respirator.

I'm going to be the wet blanket here....but I think $3600 is a bit steep. The '88 520's don't have the swept axle and are not as sought after nor worth what the swept axle models are. Are you sure about the snow-plow size? The biggest offered with a 520 was 48" unless someone made their own. My method of pricing out tractor packages is to assign a value to each piece. Here's what I came up with...keep in mind I have not seen pictures nor spoke to the owner to get the "story" on this tractor, only going by what you posted. Bare "straight axle" 520-H --- $600 48"deck ----$500 Blower -----$600 Plow w/axle bracket -- (55"??) --$300 Chains ---$60 Weights (rear, plastic) ----$80 Weights (front, plastic) ---$60 That's puts the package at $2200...if the weights are all official WH cast iron weights and not plastic the package is closer to $2400. If the guy has records (proof) of any services it has had AND is the original owner I think that ups the value as well. He does state "Or Best offer" so I would start with an offer of $2500. Just my opinion....Mike.......

Even waiting at the pearly gates of the scrap yard the Horse refuses to die .

I think this is a rather interesting topic to many.....so for now, lets keep the political side of it in check. Thanks, Terry

The other day on "the News", the wife & I listened to "officials" from the California Sheriff's dept say... "we can't release any evacuation plans to the public... because, doing so would be considered a threat to homeland security".

I know a few members are following the breach in the spillway and resulting evacuation. I have a personal interest having worked for the hydro power industry for 50 years. In fact, in 1967, I was involved in the R & D of the Pump / Turbine runners that were installed in this new power Plant. Ironically, exactly 50 years later, my son Mark (Manager of Field Service for Voith Hydro) is currently responsible for the installation of new replacement runners. Mark did evacuate his team, last week, but depending on the rainfall forecast for this weekend, they may return to the site next week

to the Bryant, and Just so you know, there is no know inoculation or cure for the dreaded WHA. Make plans now for additional storage buildings.

Wouldn`t it be common sence, cents, since, not to build a house below a dam, damn, darn ???

You are going to love that tractor. I bought mine BRANDNEW in August of 1984 and still have it to this day. I'm currently giving it a down to the bare frame restoration. Your tractor will handle all kinds of attachments with ease. Welcome to Red Square this place is the best with the nicest and most knowledgeable people you can imagine. One thing we all love is PICTURES!!! So please post them, we want to see your Work Horse!

Here is what my father taught me over 50 years ago. He used to work with galvanized steel in the boiler trades. Galvanization is the process of coating metal with zinc, either hot dip or cold dip. If galvanized steel is just dirty, clean it as you would anything else. However, if it is has red oxide (rust) the zinc coating has been breached and it must be treated as any rusted steel by removing the rust, priming and painting. If it only has small white deposits, that is zinc oxide and it can be cleaned with acetic acid. If a significant portion of the item is covered with white deposits, it may not be possible to thoroughly clean it. After cleaning with acetic acid, thoroughly rinse with clean water and dry. If you are going to paint it, an etching primer must be used on the zinc before applying your regular primer and paint.

My ... Many of these dams , bridges , power lines , roads were built during the "New Deal" era . For you young people that's Franklin Delano Roosevelt (F.D.R) starting in 1933 I believe . Unfortunately many of these projects have been neglected for years and need updating badly . Sometime in the near future these things need fixing or there's going to be more catastrophic events like this .

Sadly, whenever we hear of catastrophic events where evacuations are required it is primarily because of a lack of routine maintenance. Also, were it not for the dam or levee or bridge or whatever "failure" has occurred, the population being evacuated wouldn't have ever built there in the first place.

Whaaaat?

Thanks guys. The current owner stated that he doesn't actually use the tractor, as he owns other ones also. I guess he's more of a collector so to speak. As far as the plow not measuring up, I'm not real sure about it as he didn't have any pics posted of the plow. Guess I'll have to see for myself when I got to look at it. Also, thank you "sparky" for the breakdown in estimates on the pieces of the deal. I may use that as a reference when I go to meet this guy. I'm always open to any and all input from anyone with knowledge To Maynard: I take it you've found the post I was looking at? Lol

Oroville Dam The breach in the spillway and resulting evacuation, is just "MOTHER NATURE"S" way of reclaiming the land, from the fruits,nuts and flakes that is California. The California officials had years of prior warning but much like the crooked politicians in Louisianian, used the money for other, more politically sexy projects.

for the compliments. We all know how helpful the folks here are.........especially when it comes to storage. No worries though, that issue will be resolved when we get back to Indiana. I'll even have room to let them breed. Craig, I can't wait until the first snowfall next winter. It's been too many years since I've had the fun of pushing snow around.

Some hubs only have one and some will have two set screws. When I have a hub off, I always add a second set screw 90 degrees from the first. Like Jim said, use the hardened square head cup point set screws with a locking nut.

From looking at what you posted the right axle may have been moving around so to keep it from contacting the housing someone put a spacer on the axle.Not a standard item.The left axle hub may have been installed to replace a bad hub.It obviously is not tight on the axle.Replace the seals and clean the axles and hubs.Reinstall the hubs with Loctite and new screws like what can be sourced from McMaster Carr.Keep an eye out for hub migration.These machines have some age obviously and have been rigged by previuos owners to get one more season out of them.This is not a new thing if you have any experience with antique tractors.JAinVA

Well my friends, this will probably be the last update and the last of the work on the 500 Special until we are officially Hoosiers again. We are scheduled to close on our new place up there March 10. We will then close on this place a week or two later. But......you all know the potential pitfalls in real estate. But so far everything is moving along quite nicely. I was already working on the hood so I decided to finish and install it before the move. I think it will travel better. I made a modification at the hood hinge so it doesn't tip too far when open. I installed Terry's beautiful decals this morning and noticed something when I put the hood ornament on. The back hole was about 1/4" off center. This hood was originally on a 657 and of course it didn't have a hood stripe and it wasn't noticeable.. With the 500 Special stripe you've got a perfect reference to see it. I would have been compelled to fix it had I noticed it before painting the hood. Now it stays as is. This one is going to be a worker. You can see the axle bracket on it. Yup, this will be my snow pusher. I'll be looking for a blower for my 2005.

So far i got the light switch bracket made. (had to leave and go somewhere for a bit) but heres what i did. i seen a picture on this site of someone who replied to one my threads had a clear picture of the bracket. so i looked around at metal laying around yard everything was too thin or too thick lol, then i remembered the 2016 yard cart a friend gave me that was bent to non repair. so i looked at the axle support brackets and said to dad here we go correct thickness steel. so looking at picture bracket seemed to be tilted. i the free handed what i thought was close to the bracket. dad cut it out. i bent the bend in the bracket then i took it to the bench grinder and smoothed it out fixed the sides and rounded the corners. i know its probably not exact but custom fab work is what i like and turned out pretty good. i have this habbit of reusing metal lol. i made side panels for sears custom tractors out of oven sides and doors, now the light bar will be made up probably sunday but i am going to do a little custom work to it and make it special. i already fixed up my lights. i am reusing the lights that were attached to hood by a previous owner. but i rewired them and put 35w bulbs in instead of the 60w that was in them.

Hi folks been a while. I saved another wheel horse today. I couldn't believe my eyes a C195 headed for the shredder. Its ruff but probably 99% complete. I don't have the time right now so watch for it in the classifieds. But i couldn't see it go to the junk and be shredded.

My local salvage yard has a Ranger 800, fiberglass hood and fender, 8hp vertical Tecy, painted black. Engine is not frozen, and seems to have some compression, but not running. They would probably take $50 for it. It's been sitting for a month. Send me a PM if you're interested, and I'll tell you where it is south of Lancaster, PA. I have no skin in the game; just hate to see even the most lowly of WHs go to scrap. Jim

I'd be tempted if I didn't already have six WH projects lined up and waiting for warmer weather. I can't save them all. Hope someone else likes it. Jim

I have 12 acres. I'm ready.

around here most 520's worth thier salt start at $ 800.00 and go up from there. I have paid up to $ 300.00 for ones with blown motors on them, but that also included some attachments. I know some dealers around here get $ 3600.00 for just a tractor and deck. that's usually the 90 and newer forward swept axles tractors though. with that being said I personally would not give that much for one becuase I'm too cheap. I would bet if most guys had a tractor in that condition and could back up the info on it, would being asking a higher price then what they say they would pay for it. good luck and let us know what you decide to do eric j

This list should help you out.

Sorry Mods, there was no intent to start a political thread....just relating my personal interest in this event. Please feel free to close and/or delete this topic if needed.

Just, wear some socks... and be careful what you wish for Bob.

Yes. I frequently travel (with my utility trailer) out to Western Maryland (Deep Creek Lake area), so I am always looking within a 2 hour drive of my destination to see if there is anything I need to bring home with me. I was looking at the 1993 520-H for $1850 with 750 hours, two-stage blower, and 42" deck.

I never thought of that. But I think you may have solved a problem for my rat 702 build!

Sounds like the guys above got the bases covered so I will just . Tons of info here on 520's as most of us have or had one at one time or another..... just search away. Oh yes good luck on your possible score!

@Wheelman817 to Keep us posted about your possible purchase!

I usually keep out of "what's the value" type discussions, as not all things are equal. Value depends on condition, location, time of year, how much a buyer wants it, how bad a seller wants to sell, etc. 600 hours for a 29 year old machine isn't too realistic, unless the hour meter was disconnected, nor working, or just wasn't used that much. With the implements like the blade and blower, plus a deck,that, to me, would indicate that quite possibly the tractor was in used most of the year, which then would mean a lot more hours per year. Of course, the owner could have had another machine or two, and I'm not saying 600 hours isn't true, but does push the realm of realism a bit. I know I wouldn't pay that much for that package, but then again, as I said part of a tractor's value depends on how much a buyer wants it, and I just wouldn't want it at that price. Just my 2 cents worth, here, so it may not be worth much, especially if you really want this package deal.

Onans are commercial grade engines, and very good ones at that. But they do have their quirks, and parts can be pricey. Onan is now owned by Cummins. Onans appeared in Case garden tractors, as well as Sears GTs in 1970s, and possibly a few other manufacturers. In the '80s, John Deere started using them in their 316, 318, and 420 garden tractors. Cub Cadet has used them, as well as Wheel Horse. I don't know all manufacturers who used Onans, but they're good engines, and in the case of the John Deere 318, which was first introduced in 1983, the Onan B43 was used and a lot of those 318s with the original engines are still working today.

Apparently what you paid for it was a good price or you wouldn't have bought it! I'm not positive, but I think the 857 was still a short frame and the 1257 was a long frame. Most of the sheet metal will work, but the hood could be too short.

You mentioned a new pump. If internal clearances go to negative (with use & getting warmer as it runs) this could be disastrous also (factory defect).

Well, good news, I have gotten the brake drum off but the hub is stuck there until I can get back to work on it some more.

I love it when a plan comes together!

Thanks Richard. I definitely prefer Kohlers. That motor used to spend it's time running a pump at Mickey Mouse World. They retired them because they were too loud.

The original poster hasn't been logged into the site in over a year, so I'm not sure if he finished this or not. But, I have been playing around with a 3D version of my 551. A lot of things aren't right, i.e. the engine, wheels, hubs, seat, steering wheel etc., and I measured a few things like the frame and foot rests, and I still have to measure the hood and some other things. I found a few things, those which are incorrect, on the internet and used them as representations. I still have a long way to go and may never finish this project, as time constraints sometimes get in the way, as do priorities. But here is what I have so far. Again, some things are incorrect, but scaled pretty close to what they need to be. I still need the front axle, lift lever, transmission and axles, etc., and a few other things, plus I need to correct some things as well.

Yes that is a mod that i have seen a few people with 854's make out of desperation when they cant find a good hood. I personally of working it too hard with the small filter, as I assume they made the air cleaner bigger for a reason, but maybe the air filters in the 60's had less flow than they do now... And if you dont plan on really working it then there should be no troubles.

I like the Kohler in place of the Techie. The workmanship is outstanding, look forward to seeing it in June. Have a safe trip and hope both closings go well.

Cold oil will make everything work harder. I have a home-made loader on my Power King. When it's super cold, I let the engine run a bit turning the pump. Still everything works slow and the belt slips. A lot depends on your pump size and pulley size. I run std. R & O hyd. oil and a 5" pump pulley and a .5 cu. in. pump. If I had it to do over again, I'd run a 6" pulley and maybe a lighter oil like snow plow oil for example. My loader is primarily for snow removal so it never gets super hot and worked hard in the summer. I put 2 magnetic engine heaters on the tank with timers to help things out.

Believe you may have answered your own question. BUT, has it been fine in prior years and previous cold spells doing this? I'm no expert but my guess is that pump has got to be working extra overtime just moving the oil when it's very cold, let alone adding the pressure of working it that cold. OILUJ52 makes a good point about the oil viscosity. What is in there for oil? Could the pulley on the pump be too small? Another good question

If you have one, tee in a pressure gauge on the inlet side of the valve unit. Might tell a story. On the loader I have, the applied horse power to operate the pump is not all that much. I use Dextron III ATF in the loaders I built and have had great results, hot and cold. At 32 degrees dynamic viscosity of ATF is around 220, 10w40 oil would be 740.

ABSOLUTELY frickin gorgeous Bob...absolutely Where did you get the tie rods from ...Lowell? Think they would work on my 1067 build?