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Mounted the grader blade on the C195 yesterday. it works good in the back driveway for gravel.

If you are a Marine you know what today is. On your person you see a stamp of two yellow footprints with the inscription "Property of USMC" Born on 10 November, 1775. This is the day every Marine was made. So here to you and are Corps Happy Birthday.

One of the biggest points of wear are those front steering spindles . I've rebuilt many front axles and it's the same issue every time - the bottom section of the spindle never receives enough grease to go all the way around the shank and it becomes galled over time . Dealing with my D series right now which also uses roller thrust bearings . One is so bad it galled the destroyed bearing onto the spindle so it must be replaced . Most front axles at minimum have to be bored and sleeved with bronze sleeve bearings which can be a pain and gets expensive . My advice - spend an extra minute or two and jack up the front axle to take the weight off those spindles , then grease and cycle the steering with it unloaded . Be careful to avoid putting the jack on the grease zerk that feeds the axle center pin . Best way is to pick it up by the frame with a spreader beam fitted to the jack so the weight is off that center pin as well . I dealt with heavy equipment and trucks for years replacing spring bushings and kin pins - you could tell which ones were jacked up before greasing since they lasted far longer before any wear developed . Sarge

I am getting out of the changing implements business. This C120 (formerly C160) is now permanently married to a 50In midmount. added ag tires and weights she should do well at grading. and for the 2-3 hours use a year she should last a long time. The Elcectro 12 in the back ground will be permanent backup plow tractor.

Ok, there is no way that I'm the first guy to do this. I was looking for a replacement for my destroyed steering wheel. The options to fit the shaft were few and I thought a bit expensive. Thinking back to when I raced dirt track, I had a brain storm. Or a slight drizzle. A steering wheel quick connect is a 3/4" shaft. $25 for the quick connect and $32 for a Grant classic wheel. No modification made to the shaft. I drilled a hole in the coupler for a roll pin. I might rig a spot weld on it. Cool thing is if the wheel is in the way while doing maintenance, it takes half a second to rip it off. Mark.

My wife and I spent the day at "Flywheeler Park" at Avon Park Florida, Got to hang out with old friends and saw some neat stuff; enjoy. This is a "Fromall" which was built with parts From All Sorts of Stuff !

Old age starting to get me. An excellent excuse to have more Horses! 1 or 2 for mowin'. 2 for snow removal. 3 or 4 for grandsons; wagon rides, leaf sweeping, races, rolling the lawns. 2 automatics for granddaughters, mailbox runs and keeping tabs on the boys. Simple enough.

Looks and bet it is an excellent implement. I use my Allis-Chamers blade on my stone 'n millings driveways.

mmmmmdonuts very good advice but be carefull about the amount of grease you put into the pto bearings, too much and it will creep out and get on the friction surface and cause the pto to slip don't ask how I know this.

My problem would be........Now where did I leave my steering wheel.....

Hello all Richy in West Wales here. I collected my Wheel Horse today - bought from a classic car /automobilia auction a couple of weeks back. I'm new to this - can anyone tell me about this model please, as I'm clueless so far!

For the first time in my 40 year old life, I changed oil, gear oil, a fuel filter, and an air filter. Woot! Now I am looking to rewire my headlights and apply some grease. I was just going to grease the spindles, but I noticed some grease plugs on each side of the back axle. Is there anywhere else that I should think about greasing? Is there any other maintenance that I should learn? Thanks guys!

I saw the comment that the two stage and single stage used the same cranks. Here is a picture of my two. Top (silver) is from my two stage and the bottom (Black) is from my single stage. Same dimensions but the single stage has a rotating handle. Here are the dimensions Also, my two stage has a longer connection tube so that the crank can be used with a cab. Kurt My two stage was missing the sway bar also, so I made my own. I used some 1/2" HMW Poly for the rub block. It works just fine, but limits the opening of the hood. Kurt

I just got finished making up a crank rod to turn the snow thrower chute on my 520-HC with a Ber-Vac snow thrower. Here are some pics of how I did it. I am very pleased with the results. I used a 3/8 drive universal and a 3/8 drive extension. My neighbor welded the extension into a piece of 1/2 inch conduit and the universal into a piece of 3/4 inch conduit. Then he welded the original crank handle in the other end of the 1/2 inch conduit. The universal snaps into the extension giving me the flexible joint I need for the angle and also it's easy to remove when I remove the snow thrower with no tools. I can let the universal attached to the snow thrower. The 3/4 conduit has a 3/8 hole drilled in it for a bolt to fasten it to the chute gear on the snow thrower. The 1/2 inch conduit fits perfectly in the hole on the support bracket attached to the tractor. All I need to do now is make an attachment for the lift assist springs on the front quick hitch bracket.

With all the talk about snow plows of late and winter on the way I thought I would share a few parts I decided try and make and I think they turned out pretty nice...the adjustable skid shoes for keeping the cutting edge/wear bar up out of gravels or grinding off on asphalt/concrete the factory O.E. are sand blasted black the ones I made still raw steel then painted black on the plow ,and the rear axle quick hitch black factory and raw steel I made the locking keys if you look close enough the pitted one's are original and non pitted I made, Jeff.

Package deal like that around here in VA would go for $2500+/-, I just got one with a bagger with 560 hrs for $1000 another in the spring with just a deck $1200 the 2stage blower $250 last fall and my tiller (which BTW will leak from the gearbox perpetually) $300 5-6 years ago but that depends on the shape of the tines so let's say $1200 tractor with deck + $300 blower + $300 tiller and a cab another $200 so depending on your area $2000+ would be fair for the whole package, then ask yourself what would $2000 get you at Lowe's or Home Depot just my opinion,. Oh I just saw the rear clevis hitch and disc and turnover moldboard plow an aerator and front mount dethatcher and yard cart HOPEFULLY you get all that (anything that fits or for use with that wheel horse) too!!!, great find,Jeff.

Sorry about the Cubs but seriously, I believe there is a (other brands) section if you wish to discuss them. Oh and by the way to and don't be afraid to ask for any help with your 520 it is a nice machine and there is lots of information and good people here on Redsquare to answer any questions you might have.

Does luck follow you! Don't mess around asking a bunch of questions about the C160 or it won't follow you for long! Go get it! Ask questions later!

Just an update. Finally got all the pieces blasted, primed and painted. Now the real challenge sets in....Waiting for the paint to cure before starting to put it back together. Also, any suggestions on seats is appreciated. The recipient of this tractor, my son-in-law, is about 6'4 and 240 lbs, so I need to find a seat with good suspension and one that can be mounted far enough back so he won't be too cramped. I have a stack coming from @jimkemp so that decision is made. I was going to add more white accents but the SIL wanted all red, except the wheels of course. It seems that the disassembly and reassembly are the fun parts. The blasting, grinding and priming is monotonous...Painting isn't bad because you know the reassembly is getting near, but then that impatience gene kicks in.... Tempted to start tearing down the 856, but wisdom says not to have two tractors torn apart at the same time..... Oh...and...the pics. Rough count is about 200 individual pieces to blast, prime and paint, for the tractor alone......

No Dennis. I dont know for sure what years but I parted out a 90 that had swept axle and no gear reduction.

#40 roller chain works very well on my plow tractor

11-10-1969 Sesame Street debuts On this day in 1969, “Sesame Street,” a pioneering TV show that would teach generations of young children the alphabet and how to count, makes its broadcast debut. “Sesame Street,” with its memorable theme song (“Can you tell me how to get/How to get to Sesame Street”), went on to become the most widely viewed children’s program in the world. It has aired in more than 120 countries. The show was the brainchild of Joan Ganz Cooney, a former documentary producer for public television. Cooney’s goal was to create programming for preschoolers that was both entertaining and educational. She also wanted to use TV as a way to help underprivileged 3- to 5- year-olds prepare for kindergarten. “Sesame Street” was set in a fictional New York neighborhood and included ethnically diverse characters and positive social messages. Taking a cue from “Rowan and Martin’s Laugh-In,” a popular 1960s variety show, “Sesame Street” was built around short, often funny segments featuring puppets, animation and live actors. This format was hugely successful, although over the years some critics have blamed the show and its use of brief segments for shrinking children’s attention spans. From the show’s inception, one of its most-loved aspects has been a family of puppets known as Muppets. Joan Ganz Cooney hired puppeteer Jim Henson (1936-1990) to create a cast of characters that became Sesame Street institutions, including Bert and Ernie, Cookie Monster, Oscar the Grouch, Grover and Big Bird

Got another good spark plug you can try? I always keep a spare new one for times like this. Try it and if it works leave it there. If it still doesn't run I remove the new plug and save it for the next time. Weak plugs will fire out of the head but can fail under compression. Garry

I don't have one either, but my 520H is just fine with out it.

Welcome to Red Square - Looks like you found a great deal on a nice 520H. I agree with some others. If it overheating, I would you pull the engine shrouds and clean the cylinders and heads. Most likely it packed with oil, dirt, and grass. Especially the rear cylinder. Even if it wasn't overheating, I would suggest you do that. Lots of help here if you decide to get it. Kurt

The lift assist spring is important with hydro lift as well as it allows the blower to float more and helps it from digging down into the ground on gravel and should actually help with steering to a point as it is pulling up on the blower. Also without it the blower lifts crooked with the right side barely lifting off the ground.

One of the more desirable WHs. I really don't need it but I DO desire it. Most all C, 300,400 and 500 series attachments will fit, though as already noted the dozer blade will need extension. This is because it has a forward swept axle that will also accommodate the 60" deck. I'm guessing you'll have to spend some time pulling the engine tin off and blowing out fins. My 2 cents from mowing with my 416 Onan is that there are better engine choices for mowing. Mine is however a great leaf and grass cutting collector! Seems they all try to gather on the engine shroud! Won't help with engine cooling! And if I might interject a question, guys, does the swept axle also mean steering gear reduction? Either way I'm pretty sure I'd have to buy it! Hubcaps, weights and if that was a 48" deck? Yep! Silly match up IMHO to put a 42" on that 20 hp beast!

Nice Horse! Yes, 48" SD deck, height adjustment on the right. Be sure to clean all the engine and trans fan. Post your progress, we Horses' need updates!

mr washington, Glenn you were a great president

Certain case of Wheel Horse Addiction. A good thing! Does the Ms. believe the, "Followed me home." story thingy?

Hey guys, I've started the restoration of my 1968 Raider 10. I originally found that they didn't make a Raider 10 in 1968 but through discussion with the experts here, we determined that my tractor was a 1968 that was badged a Raider 10 with the 10 HP Tecumseh. Here's the starting point picture. It was in better shape a few years ago but it was a slight casualty to hurricane Sandy. Nothing is rusted through, thankfully. It's unfortunate that it happened and I never expected it to get wet where it was. We were at least a 1/4 mile from the water -- probably more -- but, I came to work (where it was stored) the following day and we had a garbage dumpster from the business across the street and a boat dock in out parking lot...It was insane and very unexpected. Anyway, I've disassembled a bunch of it and will e-tank the crap out of everything.

Ok, im new to Wheel Horses and I'm in love - I picked up a D-200 a few months ago for super cheap ($150) and sold it a week later when someone offered me a pile of cash. I regret selling it but after some research I found a 520h for sale (pic attached). It has 800 hours, looks like it has been taken care of, and comes with a box blade and wheel weights and a 42 inch deck. I'm told that it overheats a bit after 30 minutes but I'm thinking there is a fix for that. My questions are what all attachments will this thing take and is it really the beast that I've heard that it is? I know its not a D-200 but I want to be able to hook up about anything and be able to work. I wouldn't be working it daily - mostly just weekend stuff on my 8 acres. A little bit of everything, plowing, discing, tilling, grading, and mowing - thanks in advance for the advice!

Fix a flat is nasty when you do go to replace tires. I would echo Tankman's comment and get new tires with tubes...I just did it this past year and am very glad I did...

Mine didn't come w a lift rod or sway bar and bumper. I was able to borrow a lift bar to copy. Works great! I finally found a sway bar, bumper & belt guard assembly. Haven't ever installed any of them. It's one less thing to mess around with. It's been a few years now and I haven't had any problems without those pieces. im open to suggestions for installing the lift spring. I use a hydro and thought it unnecessary.

They're likely a common size still available since a lot of walk behind snowblowers use them too. As for turning on snow (or ice), they're pretty much useless like that since the front wheels have no drive... no bite. It's like chaining up trailer tires. Looks tough and agressive, but doesn't do anything. A better solution is to take a single piece of roller chain around the circumference of the tire... makes it act more like the runner of a snowmobile.

I'm going to pick it up 2morrow in the AM, will post some pics..!

Today I came across a true barn find. these were offered to me, not cheap, havent run in years. what would you fellas do and consider? one rj, 4 lawn rangers, one commando 8, one GT 2500. and possibly a tall shoot single stage. you will see by the dust. I didnt take many pictures, but will go back for more. Enjoy the pictures I took, and please advise. like I said, pricey to. Glenn

Very nice work! Great! I often think, "Wish I was still in the shop." Fab'd a lot of WH parts using (under the Rustoleum Regal Red paint) 316 SS.

John I can see you building this for the show.

Jelly, go to the manuals section. Look up your particular unit and it will show exactly where the grease points are. Of course you know to keep an eye on engine and trans oil levels. You'll do fine. Others will chime in. Best of luck. Glenn

The crank rod is the same from a single stage tall chute I know that for sure (I made an extension to bring mine closer into the cab, did you get the frame mounted rear belt guard/sway bar support (1st pic) if not I have one available and sway bar (2cd pic) I don't have an extra 1 of those? Then you'll be chucking snow like the last pic,Jeff.

This is the motor I am using for electric shute rotation http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electric-Motors/DC-Gearmotors/DC-Gearmotors/100-RPM-12-VDC-GEARMOTOR-5-1649.axd

Phil, Can you take a close up of the hood decal close to the front? Looking to see where that shop is/was

Welcome to the forum. You have a nice project tractor there. Looks to be in nice shape.

It came with a deck, snow thrower, a rear blade (I think that's what it is - no numbers) and here are the pics. The deck is in really good shape -- no rust through anywhere and it's very solid. All of the wheels are there and work. The snowblower/thrower is in great shape as well. A little bit of surface rust but that's it. The cable is there and properly installed so the chute works great. The blade is a rear blade, I think. There are no numbers on it so I can't really tell. Any ideas? Just a really small front blade? I think I'm missing the mount for it. It looks like it is a manual angle adjustment type of thing. Thanks! Sounds good! I'll be sure to record this resto as best I can. I'm going to clean it up and see what the deck looks like. I think I probably will, though. I'm going to be using the electrolysis tank on the rear fender this week. I'll have before and after pics.

Imagine what this guy... could accomplish using a comfy chair. 2017 BIG SHOW or BUST!!!

I agree with Dave. My 88 520H was doing the same thing. I pulled to top off the carb and cleaned everything with carb cleaner and the problem went away. You can pull one of the jets out from the top and clean that too. Watch out for that needle valve and the link that connects to the choke, both go missing easily. Kurt

Deck assembled, decals installed, blades balanced and installed. Installed deck onto 520-HC. Still need to test out bagger whenever grass starts to grow.

Well I finally finished the project . My brother and I moved the bracket holding the actuator to the outside of the seat tower on the left side which created a 1/2 inch of room so the actuator lined up with the hitch. Attached the actuator to the hitch with a grade 8 bolt which was cut to length and hole drilled in it to accept pin. Replaced the dust cover on the shiftier and scraped a boatload of dirt and grim off the trans and rear. The seat bucket/fenders needed a lot of TLC. Using raddle cans put on three coats of primper to both sides. Applied 2 coats of enamel red to the under side and went crazy waiting. The top side has 2 coats of primer and 4 coats of GM 81 red and 5 coats of clear coat. Installed the switch and tested. Lifted the plow without and problems. Left plow in the up position for 2 1/2 hours and it never moved. Bottom rear of plow is 14 inches off the ground. I lowered plow to see if it would lift rear off ground . As you can see I have an easy way to put my chains on rear tires. Plan on attached snow blade on this unit 310-8 permanently and use the recently acquired C 120-A for mowing. Hope I have attached the pictures correctly.

Looks good, I like your idea. Don't forget to replace the shifter boot as you clean up the rest of the tractor.