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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/09/2016 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    I kept looking but didn't see any... http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/wooden-construction-equipment-models-53539#post78252
  2. 8 points
    Ok, there is no way that I'm the first guy to do this. I was looking for a replacement for my destroyed steering wheel. The options to fit the shaft were few and I thought a bit expensive. Thinking back to when I raced dirt track, I had a brain storm. Or a slight drizzle. A steering wheel quick connect is a 3/4" shaft. $25 for the quick connect and $32 for a Grant classic wheel. No modification made to the shaft. I drilled a hole in the coupler for a roll pin. I might rig a spot weld on it. Cool thing is if the wheel is in the way while doing maintenance, it takes half a second to rip it off. Mark.
  3. 5 points
    Two stage for 2 Franklins...I think I stole it . Model 79361 SN 6900607 so my guess would be 1997? Found out about it through my daily CL saved Wheel Horse search email blast. Immediately I recognized the seller as a local guy who awhile back had an implement package I SHOULD have bought... I had him in my contacts yet so a quick phone call held it for me. He had it on CL for 350, dropped it to 250 and when he recognized me 200. It's in pretty decent shape but down side all is not there ... missing the chute rotate crank & support & for sure the 117556 lift rod. Any chance you would have the rod Lowell ? @wheelhorseman1000 The crank & support I can easily make. Not quite sure what else might be missing. . Downloaded the manuals so will have to study them as well. Any help/tips from you 2 stg veterans is appreciated as always. More pics to come once I get into fitting it up to the 520.
  4. 4 points
    I've found power coating to have 2 virtues, it can coat areas hard to cover otherwise and it meets current VOC restrictions. I think it's popularity is mostly due to the latter and not because it is superior to high quality paint. I find it chips and once it does rust is happy to get under it and grow. Through the decades I've found Rustoleum 769 primer to be outstanding! I have a heavy wheel barrow that was rather rusty over 20 years ago that was only wirebrushed and only primed with Rustoleum 769 and today it has still not rusted any further after sitting outside every day since! Pretty good test I'd say! There are other newer and higher tech primers and metal preps but all I did was wire brush and prime! Rustoleum 769!
  5. 4 points
    http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/chainlink-extreme-4x4-53626#post78413
  6. 4 points
    11-9-1990 Willie Nelson’s assets are seized by the IRS “We try to work with taxpayers,” Internal Revenue Service spokeswoman Valerie Thornton told The New York Times in the autumn of 1991, “[a]nd if we have to come up with some creative payment plan, that’s what we’re going to do, because it’s in everyone’s best interest.” The creative payment plan to which Ms. Thornton was referring in her statement to the Times involved a unique revenue-sharing agreement negotiated between the IRS and the beloved country singer Willie Nelson, who was then struggling to repay a $16.7 million dollar tax debt that had led the federal government to seize all of his assets one year earlier, on this day in 1990 Willie Nelson landed himself in tax trouble as a result of investments he made in the early 1980s in a tax shelter later ruled illegal by the IRS. With interest and penalties on top of his original unpaid taxes, Nelson was facing a tax bill in excess of $16 million, and though his lawyers convinced the IRS to accept a $6 million cash payment to settle the entire debt, even this was more than Nelson was able to pay, despite being perhaps the most bankable country-music star of the day. “He didn’t have $1 million—he probably didn’t have $30,000,” his daughter, Lana Nelson, told Texas Monthly magazine of her famously generous and free-spending father. In anticipation of negotiations with the IRS breaking down, Willie Nelson had his daughter remove his beloved guitar, Trigger, from his Texas home and ship it to him in Hawaii, where he was golfing when the feds raided his home on November 9, 1990. “As long as I got my guitar,” Willie Nelson said, “I’ll be fine.” Ultimately, Nelson did get to keep his guitar and even got his Texas ranch back, but not before the government auctioned his home to the highest bidder in January 1991. That bidder, however, was a Nelson fan who purchased the ranch at the behest of a group of farmers who threw their support behind Nelson in thanks for his work in organizing the Farm Aid charitable concerts. In June 1991, Nelson released a compilation album entitled The IRS Tapes: Who’ll Buy My Memories?, the first and perhaps last major-label record album ever released under a strict revenue-sharing agreement with the Internal Revenue Service. While the revenues generated by The IRS Tapes did not come close to settling the debt on its own, Nelson did manage to retire his debt to the federal government by 1993.
  7. 3 points
    The crank rod is the same from a single stage tall chute I know that for sure (I made an extension to bring mine closer into the cab, did you get the frame mounted rear belt guard/sway bar support (1st pic) if not I have one available and sway bar (2cd pic) I don't have an extra 1 of those? Then you'll be chucking snow like the last pic,Jeff.
  8. 3 points
    Electric chute control is an option. Couple different ways to do them. Fairly simple and you can do the deflector too with small actuator
  9. 3 points
    Two pieces on that crank. If you need dimensions to make them let me know. Easy fab job.
  10. 3 points
    I will see what I got - I can get you some pictures if you need them of my 2 stage mounted up to my 520 with 72 hours on it!
  11. 3 points
    Whats in my trailer?? I always wanted one ...and this one fell in my lap... Missing parts tho
  12. 3 points
    Found this and just thought I'd share.. might be something a guy knows already but I thought it was interesting read...... Kohler made five different cylinder heads for the 10hp, 12hp and 14hp K-series and Magnum engines through the years - The First Generation Head - This cylinder head was manufactured by Kohler from the early 1960s until 1971 and was available only on engine model K241 (10hp) before engine serial number 3184999. It has a heart-shaped and wedge-contoured combustion chamber and is now known as the high compression, "LP head." The spark plug is centered in the combustion chamber. This particular head was originally made for and came on the very early K241 (10hp) engines. It'll also work on the Magnum engine model M10 (10hp), K301/M12 (12hp) engines and the early K321/M14 (14hp) engines with a 1-1/8" exhaust valve. But being the later 14hp engines have a larger exhaust valve (1-3/8"), the exhaust area in the head would need to be machined out for use with the bigger exhaust valve. And because of its high compression ratios, if this head is used on a 12 or 14hp engine, Premium, race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels must be used, or the engine will overheat and wear out too soon. The compression ratio is 7:1 when used on a 10hp and 8.6:1 when used on a 12hp. If this head was used on a 14hp, it would yield a 9:1 compression ratio. And LP heads did not come on nor will they fit the 16hp (K341) engines. This head requires 2-1/2" long bolts. And due to early technology and design of the combustion chamber, the majority of the expanding gases or combustion pressure is placed over the valves instead of the piston, resulting in lower engine performance. The number embossed on this head is 235461. Cub Cadet part # is IH-385303-R1. It is no longer available from Kohler or new from any other source. NOTE: This particular head was originally designed many years ago ONLY for the 10hp (K-241) engine because these engines have low compression due to their small bore and short stroke. The only reason anyone would put one of these heads on a bigger engine today is to attempt to get more power out of it. Also, people found that the LP head worked better than a newer low compression head on an engine burning liquefied petroleum (propane) gas. LP gas is a high octane fuel (about 110-115 octane). Therefore, it burns more thoroughly and produces more power in a high compression engine. That's why these heads are known today as the "LP head." Also, the LP head, when used on any size engine including the 10hp, have been known to cause detonation (pinging) nowadays even with 93 octane Premium gas. That's why Kohler stopped making them. They replaced them with the "dished" head. Ê However, high octane race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels can be safely used with the LP head. If you want to use an LP head on your engine, the genuine OEM Kohler LP head is no longer available from Kohler or any other source. They haven't been made since the early 1960s. They were discontinued when the 12hp engine came into production, because this engine require a lower compression head. So if you need an LP head, remember, they came only on the very early 10hp engines equipped with the starter/generator and no indention on the side of the block for the upper mount gear starter. But if you can't find an LP head at all or for a reasonable price, what you could do is cast an aluminum head just like the LP head. An LP head can be CNC-machined from billet aluminum, but if you prefer a head that's close to the genuine product, first, you'll need a good LP head to use as a mold or pattern. The Second Generation Head - The second type of head manufactured by Kohler has a heart-shaped and a depression area in the combustion chamber. It has improved technology over the earlier LP head. Kohler engineers made the depression area for a special reason and it helps engines to produce more torque and horsepower than the LP head at any RPM. This head was installed on Kohler's 10hp and 12hp engines, before the 14hp engine went into production. It's a good head. It flows good and with increased compression. The "hump" directs the incoming air/fuel toward the piston at higher RPM. Unlike the sought-after, but misunderstood LP head, the depression area places the majority of the expanding gases or combustion pressure over the piston instead over of the valves, which produces more engine power and torque. The spark plug is centered in the combustion chamber. It was lowered in compression and was made for both the 10hp and 12hp engines, but would not work on the 14hp engine because of its' larger exhaust valve (it was manufactured before the 14hp engine appeared) unless reduce the size of the exhaust valve on a 14hp to a 1.125" (same as a 10 & 12hp) This can be accomplished by installing a valve seat insert in the block for the smaller valve. By the way - this type of head is not officially a "high compression head" because it has a depression in the combustion chamber. It is however, 'slightly higher' in compression than the newer style heads, but it's not a "high compression" or even an "LP head," but the next best to it. The compression ratio is 5.4:1 when used on a 10hp and 6.6:1 when used on a 12hp. If this head was used on a14hp (the exhaust circumference area would need to be machined larger), it would yield a 7:1 compression ratio. By the way - Kohler no longer makes this type of head either. These early heads require 2-1/2" long bolts (OEM Kohler part # 236546-S; number embossed on head is 235461, but not an LP head), and the later ones require 1-1/2" long bolts (OEM Kohler part # 236675-S). Also, the reason Kohler redesigned the head with the low bosses for shorter head bolts is so more air flow can past over the head bolts to better efficiently cool the other parts of the head.
  13. 2 points
    I started talking about this in Stevebo's meet and greet thread, but decided to separate it out and not further hijack his thread, LOL. It's starting to look like I'll need some help at any rate. So I picked it up Sunday from the second owner who bought it nearly new around '66 and it had been sitting. I tried to start it but it had a hung valve. I put some ATF down the cylinder and lucked out, the valve unstuck by itself. I've gotten it to run a few seconds at a time on ether, but the fuel system is all gunked up, I've got the tank off to start cleaning it up, and there was a lot of gunk in the carb bowl. The pics aren't great, it's still in my covered stock trailer hiding from the other resident at my house. It's sometimes prudent to introduce new family members slowly. Here's the tractor: My first conundrum is the black "fur" in the gas tank. The pic below is of that same fur in the fuel strainer bowl. Is there an easy way to clean that? Will anything dissolve it? I scraped at it a little and it's soft for the most part. Thanks.
  14. 2 points
    I built a pulley setup for my new tiller. The two pulleys, spring and belt used are the Toro or equivalent. The shaft is 3/4 plain steel which I threaded the end. A few bushings and spacers to line it up the pulleys. The black 3/4 stop collar just lines up the belt as I just slide the shaft in from the drivers side. Tension seem to keep it there in use so I did not add not to the other side. The spring just slides over the stub as the setup is slid in. The eye bolt is left on the tractor and can be turned to adjust tension on the belt. I guessed on the spacing on the pulleys and it works well. Pics for those who build one. The tiller is setup on a 417-8 in the pics. Comments Welcome
  15. 2 points
    Ok, im new to Wheel Horses and I'm in love - I picked up a D-200 a few months ago for super cheap ($150) and sold it a week later when someone offered me a pile of cash. I regret selling it but after some research I found a 520h for sale (pic attached). It has 800 hours, looks like it has been taken care of, and comes with a box blade and wheel weights and a 42 inch deck. I'm told that it overheats a bit after 30 minutes but I'm thinking there is a fix for that. My questions are what all attachments will this thing take and is it really the beast that I've heard that it is? I know its not a D-200 but I want to be able to hook up about anything and be able to work. I wouldn't be working it daily - mostly just weekend stuff on my 8 acres. A little bit of everything, plowing, discing, tilling, grading, and mowing - thanks in advance for the advice!
  16. 2 points
    Another Wheel Horse followed me home! These horses sure are friendly, they just don't take "no" for an answer. This one is a 1975 C120A. These are good tractors, I hope! This one came with a 42" deck and a plow blade. If these Horses don't stop following me home, pretty soon my property is going to look like a Horse ranch! Any tips on persuading these Horses to not follow you home, or is it hopeless? Sorry for the dark pictures, I just unloaded it from the trailer.
  17. 2 points
    Now that is a plan, I need to find one of those oil pans... Well after a little moc-up it does look like I will be able to get the clearance I need to not cut the frame or hood. It does look as if I will need to modify the M10 blower cover a touch and relocate the battery to under the frame but that is nothing big in my mind... I believe it will still have the 857 look with the big block motor.
  18. 2 points
    I just finished up converting the model 79252 plow that was originally for the 26x series lawn tractor over to install/hook up on the "classic" B,C,3-4-500 series tractors by stripping the original lift linkage off and welding in the center lift point/bar and rear quick hitch,Jeff.
  19. 2 points
    @flatheadrich My great, great, great grandfather was born on a ship while his parents were coming from Wales to the US of A.
  20. 2 points
    Better hurry up and get that 2-stage thrower. It snows early in the Scranton area, and he might decide to keep it. If it's the seller I'm thinking of, I already got his tall chute 1-stage. And once you get there, you might find more things in his barn that you can't live without. Jim
  21. 2 points
    I just took another look at your pic. There are two pieces, one is a short tube and the other a rod bent into a crank. Looks like you have the tube. I'll get some dimension on that crank rod once the sun come up! Should be easy to make. Kurt
  22. 2 points
    Yes! I for one will be there and I'm sure others will be as well. There is new, used and reproduction parts for sale and lots of swapping of parts and stories going on! It's a great place to be and the new friends that you will meet that share the hobby with you are fantastic!
  23. 2 points
    Careful with the decals when cleaning. They are delicate and will wash off or peel. I hit mine with a power washer and removed some of the black lettering on the stickers. For a degreaser I like Gunk spray on. Let is soak and hose it off. For the paint, either leave it alone or wipe it down with oil once clean. That patina is too nice to repaint or clear coat. There are threads on this site about oil rubbing tractors....mostly in the restoration section. I wouldn't clear coat it. It's more original and natural the way it is. There are also reproduction seat covers available by a fellow member if you look in the vendors section.
  24. 2 points
    Easy to push the snow while I sip java and watch!
  25. 2 points
    His site is amazing in the knowledge that can be learned from it. I will say this though, read and re-read things carefully. There are one liners in there that are hid that can totally change the outcome of a rebuild. If I would have re-read some of the info I would have saved myself a lot of time and money. This site is full of good stuff. I just wasn't smart enough to absorb what I read the first time or just totally missed it. Take your time, there is a lot of good and tremendous information in there.
  26. 2 points
    My old Ford LGT165 had a hose washout on it. Made a mess wherever you used it and worse yet, I got to replace every spindle bearing after only one year of use. I would never use one again.
  27. 2 points
    The best thing to do is drop it off on Saturday AM in my barn and never come back.... we will take real good care of her... lol
  28. 2 points
    Absolutely. I hope this is not against the rules. Scroll down to the yellow highlighted box and you can open different informational sections. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm
  29. 2 points
    Brian Miller is a wealth of Kohler info. I use his sight a lot. Thanks.
  30. 1 point
    Hello all Richy in West Wales here. I collected my Wheel Horse today - bought from a classic car /automobilia auction a couple of weeks back. I'm new to this - can anyone tell me about this model please, as I'm clueless so far!
  31. 1 point
    That's what I like about this place, teamwork. Jim, nice grab on that blower. Glenn
  32. 1 point
    There may be a place where powder coating works. With my limited exposure to it I have found one. I think that the under side of a deck would be one of the worst places. It's hard and brittle and any impact is going to brake it and cause it to rust.
  33. 1 point
    Keep 's clean, oiled, adjusted and greased and they will last forever...
  34. 1 point
    I picked up another tractor today. Trying to decide if I should part out, save for a custom project, or if it is what I think it is (1045) restore. If I ignore the decals it looks to be a 1045. It could also be just something thrown together. I'm looking for opinions from this educated group. What do you guys think it is?
  35. 1 point
    Jelly, go to the manuals section. Look up your particular unit and it will show exactly where the grease points are. Of course you know to keep an eye on engine and trans oil levels. You'll do fine. Others will chime in. Best of luck. Glenn
  36. 1 point
    I don't have 26x series but yes they have a tiller option, the same 36" unit as other TORO/Wheel Horse with the exception of how the PTO belt is routed and the 260 series uses a specific rear quick(attach-a-matic) hitch...which I have available last 2 pics ,it is also used for the snow plow/blade,Jeff.
  37. 1 point
    I support Wales Rugby and Wales Wheel Horses. I like the looks of your purchase. The serial number should solve all of the confusion, but someone will post who knows.
  38. 1 point
    This is the motor I am using for electric shute rotation http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electric-Motors/DC-Gearmotors/DC-Gearmotors/100-RPM-12-VDC-GEARMOTOR-5-1649.axd
  39. 1 point
    I'm sure you will get the info your looking for shortly. If you find the tag with model and serial number that will help with year and model for down loading the correct manual.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Your welcome Van..... funny thing is in my daily perusing of for horse stuff I came across that in a for sale of the LP head. Kudos to @Wishin4a416 for pointing out the author.
  42. 1 point
    Thank you for starting this thread with some great information !
  43. 1 point
    Try using fluid film. http://www.fluid-film.com/ I use it on my commercial snow plow to aid in snow sticking to the blade. It's a popular coating in the agricultural market for use on equipment to aid in prevention of debris sticking to said equipment. It's avail from rattle can to 55g drum. I buy it by the gallon and use an electric paint sprayer to apply
  44. 1 point
    Those things are some marketing geniuses idea and don't do a darn thing.If it isn't on it don't waste your time.They do not work! They just make a mess like Cleat says and waste water.JAinVA
  45. 1 point
    Maybe but I think you have to make that call through trial. Me, I prefer gears. Oh and WVHillbilly did touch on something with the older Cub Cadets. You won't fry one of those but they're a whole different animal.
  46. 1 point
    Blower will make the driveway and front yard have a much cleaner look then piles of snow pushed way back to make room for the rest of the year. I have both and I have a gravel drive. My blower is set with the skids tall and that takes the deep stuff and moves it way back. Than I hop on the "V" blade tractor to clean off that last 3/4 " off to the side but not in the grass. This system works great for me and keeps the piles of snow to the minimum. If I do get a really wet deep snow, the loader tractor makes quick work of that heavy wet mess.
  47. 1 point
    WOW, I had NO IDEA about anything regarding Kohler heads. Unreal info. You only scratched the surface here in this thread however on Kohler heads. Here's a link to what appears to me to be the Bible of Kohler Heads: http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/cylhead.htm Amazing info! This is a knowledge base unto itself that I venture to imagine few know much about, even here at RS. Thanks for the heads up.
  48. 1 point
    Then you will need one more to mount the ice cream maker on, and another one to drive to the mailbox, and another one to restore, and another one to keep the garden tiller on, and on and on and on............
  49. 1 point
    quick check using your test light with the clip lead attached to battery POSITIVE. any place you touch with the probe and the probe lights, that spot will be grounded no light = no connection to ground (battery negative terminal)
  50. 1 point
    Last year after the WheelHorse Collectors club show in PA the club made the announcement that "Customs" would be the feature tractor for the 2016 show. Man was I bummed that I had sold the Rat Grenade. First thought was to build a copy of it or to buy it back. I really hate to duplicate some projects and ruin their originality though sometimes it happens. After some thought and a suggestion by my friend Terese Emmory LaPree- I formed a new plan. At first the suggestion didn't... interest me but the following day it sparked an idea. So thanks Terese!!! This idea of a project rolled around for a couple months and I bounced it off a couple friends and they seemed to like it so I decided it had merit. I have to give some serious credit to Kevin Townsend for his help in some of the chassis design. No doubt after a couple failures into the project he was most likely getting sick of my texts for help! He added his ideas to mine for the creation of this project so my Thanks goes out to him as well! Also Thanks to Michael Biser for supplying a custom built 8-speed that gave us some flexibility in the width of the tractor. Also Thanks to Lonny Eskridge for the D-series pcs involved.This is one of 3 custom projects that we will be bringing to PA in June. So I guess here it goes- Fellow WH enthusiasts here is what has been dubbed as D-Rod Its specs are as follows- 16hp Onan Performer, Biser WH 8-spd, 4 gpm pump,power steering,hyd 3 pt hitch,16in front rubber ,17 in rear rubber on BlackRock wheels. Chassis, body and driveline all 100% handmade with exception of the D-series grille shell and front inverted axle. D-Rod can also do a couple tricks-but I will show them in another post later
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