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  1. 7 points
  2. 6 points
  3. 6 points
    10-16-1958 Chevrolet introduces the El Camino On October 16, 1958, Chevrolet begins to sell a car-truck hybrid that it calls the El Camino. Inspired by the Ford Ranchero, which had already been on the market for two years, the El Camino was a combination sedan-pickup truck built on the Impala body, with the same “cat’s eye” taillights and dramatic rear fins. It was, ads trilled, “the most beautiful thing that ever shouldered a load!” “It rides and handles like a convertible,” Chevy said, “yet hauls and hustles like the workingest thing on wheels.” Ford’s Ranchero was the first “car-truck” sold in the United States, but it was not a new idea. Since the 1930s, Australian farmers had been driving what they called “utes”—short for “coupé utility”—all around the outback. Legend has it that a farmer’s wife from rural Victoria had written a letter to Ford Australia, asking the company to build a car that could carry her to church on Sundays and her husband’s pigs to market on Mondays. In response, Ford engineer Lewis Brandt designed a low-slung sedan-based vehicle that was a ritzy passenger car in the front, with wind-up windows and comfortable seats and a rough-and-tumble pickup in back. The ute was a huge hit; eventually, virtually every company that sold cars Down Under made its own version. In the United States, however, ute-type vehicles were slower to catch on. Though the Ranchero was a steady seller, the first incarnation of the El Camino was not and Chevy discontinued it after just two years. In 1964, the company introduced a new version, this one built on the brawnier Chevelle platform. In 1968, the more powerful SS engine made the El Camino into one of the iconic muscle cars of the late 1960s and 1970s. In 1987, Chevrolet dropped the El Camino from its lineup for good. Today, the car is a cult classic.
  4. 5 points
    John has the answer. Yes, definitely use the square head cup point set screws with a lock nut. If my hubs do not all ready have the second set screw, I add them. The second set screw keeps more of the hub/shaft surface in contact preventing wobble in both directions. Also, make sure there is not a second set screw already in the hole. It is common practice for some mechanics to stack the set screws.
  5. 4 points
    I was impressed! If it was only red with the right emblem... https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/pn_5dMHsCPE?autoplay=1&hd=1&rel=0&showinfo=0&start=14&end=178
  6. 4 points
    As the past winter season ended, I found the twin in my plow tractor was starting to run like crap. So, with the new season approaching...I'm thinking it time to start going through the fuel system now. Thinking I've found its problem today...having pulled, and drained the tank. Can't imagine any of this stuff is supposed to be in there... so, I'm pretty sure it's time to start going through the carb now.
  7. 4 points
    Is that a challenge Dennis? I'll just change the tires!
  8. 4 points
    To beautiful not to take my niece and her pumpkin for a little joy ride today... IMG_0906.MOV
  9. 3 points
    But like I have read on here before, I can't get the Tecky carb adjusted to my liking. I do have it running good on the high end. Seems to be complete with only the clutch safety wiring molested. Running good enough for now as I might redo it in the future. Have to think about that one. 1971 Sears Suburban
  10. 3 points
    Hello....I will apologize now for any questions that I may ask in the future due to being a newbie not only to this forum but also to the world of Wheel Horse. These pictures are of my '72 Raider 10 that was bought new by my late Grandfather. I remember the day he taught me how to drive it and mowing the lawn. It has passed to a couple of members since his death and finally arrived back home with me where it belongs. Now I have had "The Tractor" (she was never given a proper name yet) for a short while and I will admit that I have used it hard these pass 2 summers until somethings literally started to fall off out of the blue. So this past Friday I decided to treat her more like she should be treated. She has been restored once by my Great Uncle at least 10 years ago......but now it my responsibility to help this old girl back to stardom. Any help on directing me to the right direction would be helpful. Some of my questions are; 1) What year decks interchange with mine? (the present on has blades of 2x12" and one 14")(Just finished sandblasting the deck and painted it black this July) 2) What years lights interchange if any? (never had any would like to add if possible) 3) Are the lug nuts still available? (One wheel fell off just put back on with SS bolts) 4) Are there any pulley drives that interchange with this model that are under the PTO instead of out in front of the wheels? 5) and anything else that anyone sees that I do not. Any help again would be appreciative.....I have quickly looked at some pics on this site and see a lot of pieces of art.
  11. 3 points
    I'm not ready to put a car engine in a but...Any thing worth doing is worth over doing.This is not my tractor but this is what happens when "Do I need it? " turns into "I want it." Usable? Practicable? Maybe not. Cool as heck? I sure think so!
  12. 3 points
    Looks like you should change your battery cable ends. They look kind of corroded to me.
  13. 3 points
    When I rebuilt my two-stage, most of it was straight forward. Lots of wire brushing, sanding, prep, and paint. It was a lot of work. The hard parts of the job were. 1. My impeller was badly bent and cracked. A couple of hours of torch and hammer work got it back in shape. Another couple of hours of TIG welding took care of the cracks. I later added paddle extensions to decrease the blade to frame clearance. I was worried about balance, but it seem OK. 2. My auger shaft gear box was trashed beyond use. I found out this is a common gear box used on larger Toro blowers. I found the case parts I needed on Ebay, along with some used bearings. The seals came from Toro. 3. I went with stock cam lock bearings on the auger shaft instead of the original bushing. The hard part of that is you will need a 1/4" spacer on the inside of the end plates. This moves the bearing inboard enough to clear the end of the shaft. That 1/4" spacer needs to be fabricated. I did mine on a milling machine with a DRO, that really helped, but I could have done it with hand tools. The hard part is the 2" diameter hole to clear the bearing. Also, a new set of holes will need to be drilled on the end plate. Here is a drawing of my bearing spacer. Hope that help someone.
  14. 3 points
    All of the above but if that doesn't work.... Drill and tap a second hole in the hubs, 90 degrees of the original and lock them down with a second set screw. Cheaper, than replacing the hubs.
  15. 3 points
    Some dimensions Glenn, Two stage mounted on a 520H - overall length - 98 inches, just over 8 ft. Length of the two stage alone - 53" Width of the two stage, skid to skid is 48" Height of the tow stage is 48" Kurt
  16. 3 points
    Glenn, I have lots of pictures of my two stage. Too many to post. I'll have to up load them to Photobucket and send you a link. Here is a picture of my 93 520H. Cab, and two stage when they followed me home. The trailer is the 6 X 12 I had to your place last year. I rebuilt the two stage and cab. Did a lot of work on the 93, but engine was shot - so I sold it. It had 2600 hours on the Hobbs meter and still mowed my lawn for a year. And that Hobbs meter had quit years ago. Once the sun gets up, I'll find a tape measure and get length measurement for you. If you need help when you come to Dallas for the pick up let me know. Happy to help
  17. 3 points
    Had a friend at work ask if I would like a generic dump cart that had seen it's better days? Sure !! Flange bearings in the wheels were shot, 2 flat and weather checked tires, weathered paint, bent axle, etc. Well after fixing all the major problems thought I would really perk it up with a paint job in Wheel Horse Red and the addition of a couple decals. And there you have it, a "faux" dump cart.
  18. 3 points
    "Chuck Berry is going to play a LIVE concert on his 90th birthday???!!!!!"
  19. 3 points
    I don't know if this been posted, but this was on a 704 in today's tractor show.
  20. 3 points
    Here is the Dealer decal from my recently purchased 502.
  21. 3 points
    This is the sticker from my tractor.
  22. 2 points
    Wheel Horse 604 with Dozer Blade plus Brinly Plow. Tractor is solid overall and it ran when I bought it last year. $425 for everything. I also have a new set of decals for the 604
  23. 2 points
    I came across this old wheel horse in a gentleman's yard he used it as a lawndecoration..Ian interested in buying it..I was wondering if you guys could tell me what year and model it is and how much it is worth in this condition there is no engine.. and transmission seems to be frozen but I think it will free up sheet metal is all in pretty good shape
  24. 2 points
    1075 runs good,hydro good,needs adjustment this is my current mowing tractor. Pick up in Medford Mn or possible delivery to southern WI, Chicago area if paid in advance
  25. 2 points
    Hi all, been a while since I've posted here, but some of the info here came in handy lately. Here's what me and my B80 have been up to, in pictures. The wiring harness was a mess of wire nuts, quick connects and other such ugliness. I wanted to put an electric fuel pump on to replace the dead mechanical one, but the wiring was too ugly, even for me. I labeled everything to prevent CRS issues later, tore it (almost) all off, and brought it in to the workbench. I made a bunch of new wires, all terminals soldered and heat shrunk. I checked out all connections as best I could on the bench. Mostly connected wiring back on the tractor: Harness tidied up a bit, not quite done but close. I ran into some other minor issues along the way, but it's back in the land of the living. Hope pics and video embed works. I have way more time and $ into this than it's worth, but I have enough leftovers to rewire my old M Farmall and any other projects that come along. Plus, the satisfaction of knowing that everything works and will continue to work for years to come is worth it.
  26. 2 points
    You think its cool,,,,,,and we think over kill is just words... and its not made in Japan,,,,,, Im way OK...with that !!!!
  27. 2 points
    When you install the new grommet, Start the barbed fitting in the grommet, but do not push it in past the first barb. Push the grommet all the way in to the tank, then push the barbed fitting all the way in. The barbs expand the grommet to make the seal to the tank.
  28. 2 points
    If you are looking for an argument, you need to pick another subject! I agree totally!
  29. 2 points
    Was running 1/2 choked... but, hard to believe it could run at all.
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    Very nice looking C175 there Craig. I see it is a 1982 model. Look to have some water and bits of varnish in your fuel. A carb. cleaning at the very least is in order here. Varnish is a problem, but the water is more of a concern. I hope you don't have corrosion starting in your float bowl and carburetor passages. By the way, I see you have tossed that old seat away on the ground. If you wish, I will dispose of it properly for you.
  32. 2 points
    JB Weld will not stick to the black poly tank. Everything in that area is a press fit. Pull straight down and wiggle the valve while pulling. After you remove the grommet, make sure the tank is not cracked at the hole. Get a new grommet and reinsert everything. A new supple grommet should seal the leak.
  33. 2 points
    RJ 58/59, id pay 250.00 for it not knowing about the trans.
  34. 2 points
    You got that right Jeff - Family first. Take care of Mom and Dad. Everything else can wait. Kurt I think I resemble that remark. Good talking to you Glenn, Kurt
  35. 2 points
    So this is what a Michigan Pep Rally looks like. Where's Waldo??
  36. 2 points
    It is a 1958/9 RJ with a #5003 transmission. Even thought the trans seems locked, it can be cleaned and become workable. Don't try to free up the trans by pushing it, you could break teeth in the differential. Better to just open it up and clean and fix it. Price is up to you...it does look to be in good shape.
  37. 2 points
    Yeah dad is 79 and still driving short trips and mows the yard ect but I don't know how much longer and mother doesn't get around to well and never has learned to drive so I do all I can for them when I have time, family first everything else later,Jeff.
  38. 2 points
    Great suggestion. A word of caution if you do this. Do not get over ambitious tightening the jam nut on the additional set screw. WH machined a flat surface around the set screw hole you will not have that for your new hole. You will be tightening down on a curved and sloped surface. If you get carried away it can cause the set screw to snap off flush with the hub. Do not ask me how I know this....
  39. 2 points
    Cleat, Quick sketch of the idler extension, from what I could measure. Holes were sized to fit.
  40. 2 points
    Cleat, I didn't record any measurements when I did the idler upgrade. I wish I had. I'll see what I can get using a tape measure and post that. Its really tight down there. I do remember that I got the idler sprocket and chain at TSC. I made a spacer to get the idler to line up, but a couple of washers would have worked. I remember just wrapping the chain around the sprockets, marking it, and cutting it at the mark. Not hard at all. BTW, I had to add the extension to get the sprocket to clear the frame. Kurt
  41. 2 points
    Kurt; Do you have any measurements or plans for the plate you used to mount the chain tension idler sprocket ? I assume the chain is now longer, do you happen to know the length ? I like the auger bearing upgrade idea and will be doing that to mine eventually. Thanks, Cleat
  42. 2 points
    Are they new cup point set screws?? If not what does the business end look like. It should be cupped with a clearly defined ridge around it. That actual should dig in to the woodruff key (Leaving a cut circle in the key) Bolts with their smooth end are not good substitutes. Also did you put the jam nut back on and snug it down??
  43. 2 points
    Kurt thanks for the measuring (I was in WV yesterday moving a freebie 14' 1965 Winnebago camper ) and not moving around to good today,but with my weight bracket/weights add another 12"-14" to the overall length so yep not gonna fit my "baby" trailer, was thinking of getting a 7'x16'-18' dual axle so I can haul the Kioti,Jeff.
  44. 2 points
  45. 2 points
    Hostess Deep Fried Twinkies are Soylent Green! 953 nut, Frumpy... new to me. The seduction of German engineering precision playing. Good listening!
  46. 2 points
    "We're going to the Chuck Berry Birthday Concert!!!"
  47. 2 points
    It...It...It...It's a NOS RJ 35...The Clinton Campaign says they just found it in a back room at Trump Tower and the Trump Campaign says it was in Hillary's deleted emails and they just printed it on a 3D printer as proof...OH what are we gonna do..???!!!
  48. 2 points
    Achto,,,,,,and the always reliable Garry.................thank-you both.... I DID find a replacement grill from Majestichardware.....and it is coming/// although i have only been here 3 1/2 yrs....you guys always have your finger on a hair trigger when help is needed...... Today i shot a flair into the sky and you guys saw it........a thousand humble thank-yous..... And ED,,,,,this thing is gonna be a beast 8hp,,,,8 speed short frame........ So its either the first of big machines coming......or the strongest small machine.... Either way.......i am hooked..... 857horse Howard in va,,,,on a mission !!!!!!
  49. 2 points
    Got some more work done on the RJ today, although I ran into bad news. I'll get to that shortly. Anyway, I got the frame all polished up and after running to the hardware store for more stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers, I was able to get it attached to the transmission. I also polished the front axle and spindles, so they were all assembled as well. After getting the idler arm, idler pulley, and the clutch arm all polished and ready for assembly, only then did I realize that the rear wheel needed to be removed. No big deal. However, when I went to slide the idler arm through the transmission covers, I couldn't get around from having the arm all scratched up. Frustration Number 1!!! So after calming down by walking away from the project for about an hour, I figured I'll install the front wheels. After putting the first wheel on, I found that I apparently grabbed the wrong set of rims for this tractor, as the hubs on these rims aren't wide enough for the spindles. Frustrating Number 2!!! So after digging through the garage, I found another set of wheels that I'm pretty sure are the original wheels for this tractor. Only trouble is, they are full of calcium and don't appear to be in the best of shape. I couldn't break the valve stems loose, however after spraying PB Blaster around the beads, I was amazed to find out how well the beads broke. I eventually cut the valve stems off with my Dremel and cutting wheel as the stems were brass. I got the tires removed and found that the calcium was contained inside an inner tube so the insides of the rims aren't bad at all. In fact, the sides that you see in the pictures below, are the only bad areas of the rims. The backsides are in good shape and should clean up well. After the tires were removed, I installed all of the grease zerks along with the zerk caps and spindle caps that I bought from Glenn. I sure hope tomorrow goes a lot better than today did!!!
  50. 2 points
    Slept in today, and did not get out of bed till a little after 11 AM. Had to rush to my local Toro jobber to pick up the new parts I ordered last weekend. Also went to my local tire shop to pick up the new rubber for the rears. Bad news is that everything together set me back over $250. The good news is that everything is genuine American made Toro/Wheel Horse parts, and Carlisle Tru-Power ag. tires. Tickled purple (beyond pink). Was VERY happy to find out that at least the rear Carlisle tires are still made over here. These things even have the American flag molded into the tire. Since this last Mississippi trip resolved all the lingering issues with Caterpillars new pallet system, I shouldn't have to go back. Would think I would have time to get into the C-175 big time now. Unfortunately, I have a charity event I have to help out with next Saturday, and in around two weeks, I have to run one of the local voting centers for the upcoming election. No rest for thew wicked I guess. Below are a few photos of my latest acquisitions. There are the two new Carlisle tires, along with the proper drive belt, new parts for the worn hydro shift, and a new ignition switch.
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