Leaderboard
-
in all areas
- All areas
- Markers
- Marker Comments
- Marker Reviews
- Articles
- Article Comments
- Article Reviews
- Classfieds
- Classified Comments
- Classified Reviews
- Wiki's
- Wiki Comments
- Wiki Reviews
- Blog Entries
- Blog Comments
- Images
- Image Comments
- Image Reviews
- Albums
- Album Comments
- Album Reviews
- Files
- File Comments
- File Reviews
- Posts
-
Custom Date
-
All time
November 28 2011 - April 26 2024
-
Year
April 26 2023 - April 26 2024
-
Month
March 26 2024 - April 26 2024
-
Week
April 19 2024 - April 26 2024
-
Today
April 26 2024
-
Custom Date
05/11/2016 - 05/11/2016
-
All time
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/11/2016 in all areas
-
17 pointsGood day. The tractor was purchased on Ebay , in New Jersey. my friend took it and sent by sea to Leningrad (St. Petersburg ) . I was there and it was taken away and home. Custom made exhaust from an old washing machine made front axles and hubs for the wheels 25 inch ATV , make snow plow . It is like a tractor to me , I go into the woods for mushrooms and berries , for the trees (later I will make photos and videos ) . Now I'm doing a front axle with hydraulic motors . And very want to lock the rear axle.
-
10 pointsMany thanks,have had the blades off to check and they have a 3/4" round hole,I have sharpened what was left of them an put them back,I am not a new member,it`s just that I have changed my internet provider,don`t forget,red not yellow,Cheers! Phil.
-
8 points
-
5 pointsGot my Craftsman GT out of this shed this past weekend, gave it an oil-n-filter change, a new fuel filter and of course a bath. They get no respect but this one is about to take on its 16 season mowing for me. It was a Father's Day gift for me 16 years ago and it's never let me down, very comfy and not to loud. It came with a 46" deck and a triple bagger which it's a perfect combo for my yard and we all know mowing with a hydro is faster and easier than a gear driven tractor. Other than the basic maintenance I have never had to wrench on it. Pics of course; Mike........
-
5 points
-
5 points
-
5 pointsAnd last but not least.. Me and my son took a break of puttin around on our tractors together to have my wife take this picture.
-
4 pointsTo be sure it's working again.......send me $20.....I'll let ya know if it made it to my account. For testing purposes of course . Mike......
-
4 pointsFeel ashamed at being seduced by the swedish stiga! the wheel horse has been a loyal friend for many years.Moving trailers,pulling boats up the slipway and of course cutting the grass.She seems to have forgiven me.
-
4 points
-
4 points5-11-1947 B.F. Goodrich Co. announces development of tubeless tire On this day in 1947, the B.F. Goodrich Company of Akron, Ohio, announces it has developed a tubeless tire, a technological innovation that would make automobiles safer and more efficient. Pneumatic tires–or tires filled with pressurized air–were used on motor vehicles beginning in the late 1800s, when the French rubber manufacturer Michelin & Cie became the first company to develop them. For the first 60 years of their use, pneumatic tires generally relied on an inner tube containing the compressed air and an outer casing that protected the tube and provided traction. The disadvantage of this design was that if the inner tube failed–which was always a risk due to excess heat generated by friction between the tube and the tire wall–the tire would blow out immediately, causing the driver to lose control of the vehicle. The culmination of more than three years of engineering, Goodrich’s tubeless tire effectively eliminated the inner tube, trapping the pressurized air within the tire walls themselves. By reinforcing those walls, the company claimed, they were able to combine the puncture-sealing features of inner tubes with an improved ease of riding, high resistance to bruising and superior retention of air pressure. While Goodrich awaited approval from the U.S. Patent Office, the tubeless tires underwent high-speed road testing, were put in service on a fleet of taxis and were used by Ohio state police cars and a number of privately owned passenger cars.
-
4 points
-
3 pointsJust joined a few days ago. Live in Bellefontaine Ohio. Thanks for the forum. Great place Save me a few bucks already.
-
3 pointsI guess we cannot post replies to photo gallery postings so I am posting here Just saw we have a Russian Wheel Horse member -- There are new pictures in 'Horses at Work' in the Photo Gallery -- Would love to know how that tractor got to northern Russia -- Maybe thru some of our Scandinavian owners? Just noticed his "custom tail pipes" on his muffler
-
3 pointsGot my 2nd horse home, picked up this 310-8 from the woman's grandparents, needs a lil TLC but it'll be a good worker. Next his getting his 753 home to work on.
-
3 points
-
3 pointsI looked at the diagram of the deck . I got this diagram off the Toro parts site in 2012 when I needed belt and idler pulley. It shows to holes in the tension bar which could be used for the idler pulley . The holes are about an inch apart, I wonder if the idler could be in the wrong hole. The holes are so close to each other that the idler would cover up the incorrect hole. The diagram is for a 36 inch RD ,but it is the same for the 37 inch SD . Ed , I checked my deck today and my bar does move , the tension is very tight ,I am going to get so new sliders . I hope this diagram is attached. Scan0014.pdf
-
3 points
-
3 pointsI never use OEM because of the cost. I have used imported parts from BBT Power Parts and other eBay sellers with much success. The last OEM part that I purchased was a set of points, and they were made in Mexico, so I would guess that connecting rods are imported now as well. That being said, I have heard many members talk about buying OEM Kohler parts from OPEengines.com. In any case, if the connecting rod is worn, you might want to check the crankshaft journal as well.
-
3 pointsit's funny how these tractor,s bring out the kid in all off us WH junkies . If that's not a calendar shot ,I don't know what is ?
-
3 pointsThat "Legacy" add is very cool, I've never seen it before. Guess you and the wife and kids could stage a similar shot.
-
3 points
-
3 pointsI think we're gonna need a new emoji flag now. Hey Igor, welcome to our version of
-
3 pointsWelcome to Red Square! Pleased to hear from Russia's 1st Horse enthusiastic member!
-
2 pointsAfter watching a church groundsman mowing around the tombstones with a Stiga mower and talking to him it looked as if I NEEDED a Stiga mower.After bidding for a few on ebay I finally got one.Yes it did get into corners but even though it was meant to be 13.5 HP it would not cut long grass like my C101 which has a 10HP Kohler,it was unstable on slopes and the wheels spun on inclines.Luckily my C101 has not been sold so I am now giving it a bit of care before putting it back into use.I really need a set of new blades but as I have welded and painted the deck I do not have a part number for them.The deck is a 36" tachamatic rear discharge type and the blades are two at 12" long and one at 14" long,I have not been able to find the number in the manuals section,does anyone know which blades I need?.And the Stiga? sold on ebay and only lost £10,an expensive error,learn by my mistake,red mowers NOT yellow!.
-
2 pointsPut a Kohler on it. That engine is rebuild able though. Marvin
-
2 pointsJim : Your scan of the idler piece is a good reference. Both of those holes that you point out for the idler pulley are threaded, Not sure why there are two holes but putting that pulley in one or the other is going to change the tension on the idler arm -with whatever belt is on it! I bought a 312 tractor with a recycler deck two years ago and the deck needed several parts replaced. One of the parts that was worn badly was the idler arm. As you can see the idler arm holes for the slides are egg shaped and the idler arm has cuts in it where the idler pulley skipped and cut into the arm surface. The telltale sign of the problem however is the ring around the hole where the idler pulley was placed and it is apparently the wrong hole for installing the idler pulley based on the scanned drawing Ed posted above. I replaced the idler arm with a new one from Toro which was about $40 but it was needed to make this mower function correctly. Also I had to change the center lift piece in the mower rack as it was damaged with an egg-shaped /oblong hole worn it it also!
-
2 pointsCheck these links out Mr. T. http://www.wheelhorseman1000.com/category-s/126.htm
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
2 pointsMy experience is that they are standard sizes. I needed a few in my C141 restoration. Brought the old ones to the hardware store and matched them to the ones in the box. As I recall, the clips are sized by the shaft, not the groove diameter. If my memory is correct, you want one for a 1/2 inch shaft
-
2 pointsLooking good. Can't wait but at the same time dreading getting to that point. But...... Once its done it will be nice. Nice job Aldon!
-
2 points
-
2 pointsGot the muffler I plan to use today. And made some headway in laying down the paint. Gonna be a lot of rework to do:-) The muffler is same as was on the 416-8 series Kohler 16hp set up. Mounts horizontally. Anyone know the part number for a heat shield to protect the hood?
-
2 pointsI've looked at his site for parts in my other tractor, but didn't see any cables listed, figured I'd just hafta pm him when I get the 310 running right. I've been working on this 310-8 since December, came with deck and blade. he's also giving me a 753 with deck and blade as well. Too many projects not enough time but I like keeping busy.
-
2 points
-
2 pointsThese three pictures clear up the problem. The first picture shows the spring is stretched about the correct amount. The second picture shows the guide bolt to be where it should be...centered in the slot to allow the bar to slide. The third picture clearly shows the guide bolt is bottomed out in the slot preventing the the bar and pulley from moving to the right and therefore it is not putting any tension on the belt. I see two two possible fixes... move the bolt in the third picture to the right one inch or use a one inch shorter belt. With the bar bottomed out against the guide bolt, a stronger spring will do nothing to increase the tension on the belt.
-
2 points8969 3-blade set is correct if the blades require a 5/8" x 3/4" double-D center hole to mount them. Has to be perhaps the only set with this type of center hole that are still available from Toro. They eventually went to a blade with a 3/4" round hole for later decks. Garry
-
2 pointsIt's actually the back of the brochure from the 260/300/5xi series brochure. Buts it's cool that it's a 753
-
2 pointsEither will work fine. As far as speed, simply don't rev the motor up. Most PTO attachments are intended to run at full throttle but the sickle bar mower isn't. I used my sickle mower with the motor at about 1/4th throttle for many years. Won't hurt a thing and you're getting plenty of splashing going on. They will work fine at a 45 degree angle. I did exactly as you are wanting to do, trim briers from the paths in the woods. I simply put an eyelet in one of the existing holes in the steering tower and one about in the middle of the bar. A short piece of chain held it in place at the 45 degree angle. Just be careful.
-
2 pointscheck out @wheelhorseman1000 Lowell is a vendor here and has a great selection of lift cables and other great add ons. He is great to deal with too!
-
2 pointsWelcome to REDSQUARE Igor , not quite your Redsquare that you have in Russia here but I'm sure wil find some interesting stories. ENJOY
-
2 pointsTry these 7.6x15 from stop&go for $88. I believe they will fit pretty well tho they are close on a 1054 & 953 https://www.stopandgotires.com/tire/industrial/industrial?sku=FA5J1&name=American%20Farmer%20Traction%20Implement%20I-3 This is them on my D-160 - theyre nice tires for a very good price
-
2 pointsThanks elcamino! I had a blast cruising on the new 753 with my son. Gonna get all the horses out to have them in a family photo soon. Doesn't get any prettier then these old horses!!
-
2 pointsHere are some before and after pictures of my freshly restored 1969 Work Horse 700. My dad bought this tractor new when I was 2 years old. I started driving it when I was 6, and mowing when I was 8. My son will be 6 this fall. It will be his turn to drive it soon! Let me know what you all think! Thanks, Eric.
-
2 pointsWell the good news is I was able to get most of the parts initially painted with Rustoleum Implement paint "Troy Bilt" red. And the paint adhered with no issues like the initial effort. Closest match I could get on short notice today to the Massey Red I painted parts of frame. It looks decent enough in my opinion.
-
2 pointsIf your spring is not keeping tension on the belt. Three things could cause this. 1. the spring is too weak 2 ,the belt is too long 3. the sliding bar is not sliding due to the end of one of the slots hitting a bolt. In the above picture, you can see the spring is stretched approx. 2X its relaxed length which puts quite a bit of tension on the belt. It should be noted this spring loaded constant belt tensioning system will automatically make adjustments for varying belt length due to elongation from heat and wear and pulley runout. The tension system is also the slip clutch if a blade strikes an object.
-
2 points
-
2 pointsJim, you must be missing the location of the attachment point of the ends of the spring. In this photo, the bottom end of the spring is attached to the sliding bar and the top end is fixed to the deck. Therefore the spring is pulling the sliding bar and pulley up and tightening the belt.
-
2 points