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Why use a wheelbarrow? A horse idling in the yard makes any job a little easier. After putting her in the garage last evening I went over to Lowes to pick up some shelving. In the parking lot there were three rows of Troy-Bilt Red Pony's waiting to be sold. Couldn't help stare at them ... really makes you appreciate the old horse in the garage ... no comparison!

So giddie as a school girl i go to get my new 520 today ,,and arrive at the gentlmans house , and in our first 5 minites of talking come to find out we have both spoke on here ,, and he actually sent me a message about getting that 520 up for sale,,, what a pleasent suprise he was chev0545 ,, we sat and B.S. About wheel horses and before ya knew it a cpl of hours passed by ,, he is one of the nicest guys ya ever wanna meet... Had a great day and got one hell of a tractor ,, thx david !! Your a great guy thanks for everything !!!

have you tried filling the plug with new sparks?

I understand that brand of battery hold down comes in different lengths.

John, had a stroke yesterday (Thursday)...left side paralyzed. I know prayers work...please remember John in yours. He is in the hospital and is OK. The condition is thought to be temporary...but will take some time and therapy. I don't know much more then that. I talked with him, but only for a few minutes. Please keep him in your prayers.

Well I've seen a lot of you guys doing it and I kept forgetting to get ethanol free gas to get mine going and out.. Well finally got some and today as me and the wife cleaned shed out more and condensed stuff up getting ready to move I found the time to get my two horses out to stretch there legs. They are the only tractors I'm taking with me on my move south so my other two I got out and sent to my parents garage until later date..

Nothing if the neighbor does not guard the clothes line.

thanks guys! I would have more horses but being that I'm trying to move I have had to hold myself from buying them until I get down there.. o and tankman its still similar priced, I think its 25,000 now

So true Jim, I am only 30 myself, and am happy to carry the torch!!

SOI: Yes that came to me about 2:30 this morning..when I do my best thinking.

I often think the same thing. But is it a "quality" issue, or an issue of "optimization"? Today's lawn machines are optimized for a single purpose - mowing a pre-established 1/2 acre lawn for five to ten years while complying with federal EPA regulations. Engineers of the old Wheel Horses were less constrained and thinking more broadly of many more uses than just mowing when they designed the Classics. So, maybe it's not just a quality issue ... just a thought.

According to this service bulletin the H60-75063b was only used in the 1964 34E Lawn Ranger and model 654. The fenders may be bolted on the wrong sides and be the reason they look odd. Garry

No need Steve, regulators do not require polarization and the SG would not "motor" if the field shoes did not have residual magnetism. When you hook an SG up onto the tractor, you are forced to ground the SG body (thru the tractor frame). With the ignition switch wired to the A terminal, turning the ignition switch to the START position, you force "flashing" of the armature and the field to the correct polarity every time you start the tractor. Self flashing does not happen on type B generators, Ford type generators or AC based home generators. You end up hearing success stories about how someone's uncle Mo had to flash his tractor regulator and generator, and this means uncle Mo probably had a Ford with a B style generator. Uncle Mo may have had to flash his home generator also to get it to produce AC but that is an entirely different story. The Delco type A gens on WH tractors are "self flashing" in the sense they are connected thru the ignition switch and the regulator to steer themselves in the right direction in regards to output polarity. As far as output from the generator, as long as the pole shoes have the least bit of residual magnetism and the fields are functional, the gen will spin up and produce a charge current in the right polarity and strength. Pole shoes are not likely to loose residual magnetism. How often do you find it necessary to re-magnitize a magnetic screwdriver? Look closely at a wiring diagram for WH SG based tractors. Does this not happen by default every single time you turn the ignition switch to START? The only time flashing may be required is if a rebuilder slaps in a new armature and field shoes (both having no significant residual magnetism when they are new) and hands you the SG without testing it after the repair.

Lord, please be with John and his family, give them strength to continue his recovery and remove the sudden fear they are suffering. Grant them strength and courage in the struggle to recover what has been lost. Guide the doctors and therapists who are attending to John and restore him to be able to resume living fully. We ask this in the name of Jesus Christ; Amen.

Hello everyone. Finally came across a good condition Xi tractor. I couldn't pass it up. Never owned one and curious to hear the pros and cons. I'm thinking about mowing with this and put the zero turn on the chopping block?

I purchased a mtd ranch king make 18 hp 46" cut hydro back in 1996 got to say I got my money's worth out off that one . Only thing I had to replace was belt and blades . Gave a super great cut even in tall wet grass . Still use it with the bagger for clean ups . I always keep it greased , oiled , and kept out of the weather . I consider my self lucky , but I took care of it . Before my accident I was in the HVAC trade . When replacing some old 30-40 year old furnaces the home owners would ask me if the new furnace will last that long . Then I break the news to them that the new one might last 15 if your lucky and thats why that old furnace company is out off business now cause it was made to last . It's sad to make a good product then to go out of business because you don't sell parts because it's made so well .

I drilled the hood hinges and front tach bracket where they attach to 1/2". Then make up a new 1/2" rod with a couple of cotter keys to hold them (I don't have a lathe to cut a groove for an e clip). Hood is now nice and tight and the 1/2" rod will wear longer than the original smaller rod.

We`ll be watching ! Seriously I`ve seen some good deals at the big show. I bought a C160 auto. with 42in. deck and a parts tractor for $350 three years ago. The engine wasn`t original, it was a newer 16 magnum. Been mowing with it ever since.

Napa 1410 hydro filter

How much does the hold down cost per foot?

Mike knows....1410 Napa/WIX I believe for the Hydro....don't listen to the guy's at auto zone lest they be members here....check here.... there are guys here that forgot more than what I'll ever know about a 520 I was a Fram dude till Sqounk educated me...

That filter crosses to a Napa 1348 which is about 8 bucks. Do yourself self a favor. Next oil change cut that filter open and see if it's really a good filter. You can't get much better than a Napa gold which is actually a Wix. You might be able to save some money next time.

Cleaning the points would be my first step. Also, put a test light or meter on the coil + to see if you are getting 12 volts. Good luck.

VICTORY! Unit is polarized, 13.6 volts at the battery when running at about 2/3 throttle! Engine starts and runs strong without issue. Next on the list is some wire brushing, De-greasing and a tune up (plug, coil, capacitor, points, oil change) to get her set for spring (and maybe even a show or two). Gentlemen, what an incredible learning experience - thank you all (SQUONK, PFREDERI, STEVASAURUS, SAVEOLDIRON - and any one I may have inadvertently missed), for sharing your your time, experience and knowledge with me. My best to you and I hope our paths cross again (but not too soon!)

I raised the seat bracket the gas tank and the fender pan 1 3/4" to clear 25x900x12 Carlisle All Trails. If you look close I added 1/8"x 1 1/2" steel flat between the shifter plate and the hood stand as both side were broken at the fender mount. They are just bolted in place with the shiftier plate I plan to weld them if I ever take it back apart. I also added 1/8" x 1 1/2" across to help stiffen it, it's on top as I was raising every thing up. I also added a few braces at some other points as this is my dirt machine. You can also see the 3/8" rod I spot welded under the outside edge of the foot pads as the were warped and gave every time I stepped on them.

Got to finally work the RJ58. Just a quick trial run and I think this was the perfect WH for my twice a year dethatching and sweeping. I gave the lawn a quick sweeping.

Theirs no such thing as a yard to small for a WH

This topic pops up here from time to time. I think you have to look at it from different point of views and without blinders on. We all on here are Wheel Horse fans for obvious reasons. Now out of all the members on here how many really need a heavy duty garden tractor? How many just mow with a Wheel Horse? Then I am sure there are some that don't have a yard big enough to justify a garden tractor let alone a rider, or a drive that a small walk behind snow blower could handle. That does not mean they don't enjoy the restoring or collecting part. So if you take the whole Wheel Horse crowd we are actually very few. People in today's world don't garden like they once did. The overall need for the well build garden tractor is not there. I like many of you shake my head when I look at that junk at the big box stores. Then again I have to open my mind and quit comparing it to a Wheel Horse. They were never design to plow heavy snow or pull a ground engaging piece of equipment. Design to fill the need of the city dweller that needs to mow his 1 acre or less and do it efficiently for 1 to 5 years. They were never designed to last. As said many times before they are disposable. So if you take the blinders off those junk tractors are just like Wheel Horse's, they are doing what they are design to do. It's just the world we live in now. Wheel Horse's are just a connection to what once was. If it weren't for people like here on the site the Wheel Horse would have started to dissapear a lot faster then it is.

$2,122.00

Steering wheel almost finished I need to do a little more plastic welding.

Another update

Ran into the seller, got his shed key. The NOS 520H is heading to Eastern PA along with the snow cab, 2-stage blower, FEL, cat 0 3-point hitch, 54" blade, tiller, 60" deck, more. Seller was upset, one headlamp out. Dropped his price to two hundred bucks since I promised to take care of the Stallion. And then my alarm clock woke me up.

Just what I was gonna say Richard.!!!!! but i get to see the following posts....those would look really good as duals....i've never seen them that narrow... Now i haffta do a little shop time.to be ready for June......Yep !!!!!! Pie time !!!!! um......The BIG SHOW !!!!

if the regulator terminals are corroded or oxidized, chances are the terminals of the ignition switch are suspect also the battery voltage has to pass thru the ignition switch to the regulator compromise electrical connection anywhere along this pathway and you will loose the charge function

Wheel Horse B/C/D Tractor Dash Panel Restoration Tutorial How to properly restore a Tractor Dash Panel Wheel Horse Dash Panel Restoration Tutorial Originally posted by: MikesRJ - 03/06/2010 Click any picture in this article to view a larger version of the image Restoring old tractors (garden type or full-size farming equipment) presents the restorer with many challenges. Not so different from automotive or aircraft restorations, certain little tricks-of-the-trade are learned along the way which every restorer should have in their basket of tricks. The older a restoration subject is, the harder at times it is to locate a suitable "show-quality" part to complete the restoration. Sometimes you simply don't have a choice but to restore the part you have in hand because a replacement just simply does not exist. This how-to presents one of those tricks. The best part about this particular restoration technique it that it can be used on any part made of plastic, PVC, vinyl, leather, cloth or wood. The images above are of the Dash Panel before it was removed from a Wheel Horse C-160 Tractor, and after this restoration process was performed. Yes, boys and girls, that is in fact the same dash panel shown in both pictures. Excellent results can be achieved if you remind yourself to be patient, take your time, and follow the process presented here. Practicing the method on anything with raised letters beforehand also greatly enhances your chances of success. Simply follow this process on a "scrap" item and you should be ready for the actual piece in no time. PROCESS OVERVIEW: As restoration quality and New Old-Stock (NOS) Wheel Horse Dash Panels are harder to come by, it becomes necessary to restore what you have rather than replace the part entirely. This page is dedicated specifically to the restoration of an otherwise "good condition" dash panel that has been time-weathered, and return it to its original luster. Before moving on to restore your tractor restoration Dash Plate, it is HIGHLY SUGGESTED that you read through this entire article and perhaps try this method on a spare or "sacrificial" part beforehand. You only have one chance to do it right on your final piece, and a million ways to do it wrong along the way. As a side-note: This process can be used with very little variation on any tractor part which is made of vinyl, plastic, PVC, cloth, leather, or rubber. The VHT line of products is extensively used in the automotive/aircraft restoration worlds for returning anything made of these materials back to near original appearance. See more details concerning VHT Vinyl Dye products at this website: http://www.vhtpaint.com TOOLS REQUIRED: 1. Small bristle brush and Dawn Dish Detergent 2. 1/8" Metal punch and heating source (if making repairs) 3. 800 grit Wet/Dry Sand Paper 4. 0000 (fine) Steel Wool 5. Common Automotive Brake Fluid 6. Paper Towels 7. VHT Vinyl Dye, Gloss Jet Black (p/n: SP941) 8. Elmer's "Painter's" Opaque Paint Marker (fine & wide tip) 9. Dental Picks, Tooth Picks, and/or Exact-O Knife PAINTING TECHNIQUE: The white borders, letters, and symbols on the dash panels were originally manufactured using a screen printing roller technique. This method produces an extremely thin, opaque layer of material which is extremely strong and relatively long lasting. Since reproducing this technique is far more difficult for the "home restorer", the method presented here is relatively easy, and mimics the original process quite well. The technique I use is pretty straight forward and quite simple to do at home. In order to apply the thinnest coat of paint the tip of the paint marker should be as "dry" as possible, but still contain enough material to deposit on the surface. This technique is called "Dry Brushing" and is used by painters and modelers as a method for adding subtle details to whatever they are painting. For the purpose presented here we are using this method to apply the thinnest coat of material we can, in each successive pass over the surface. Once the paint marker is prepared for use per the package directions, the tip of the marker should be touched to a paper towel and dried off as much as possible before touching it to the part to be painted. When moving to the next paint area on your subject piece, re-load and re-dry the tip, then proceed. When painting with the white paint markers, insure the tip is about as wet as when using an artists "dry-brush" technique before touching it to the part. Apply the paint so it thinly "flows" over the surface, and use a paper towel to keep the tip "almost dry" of wet, runny paint between individual characters on the plate. Apply the paint with a very light touch in single passes only. Don't cover any more than a single pass at a time, building layer thickness with each additional coat. As always, follow the package directions for all of the products used in this process. When applying the paint, you are NOT wiping it onto the surface like a paint bush. You are also NOT trying to cover the surface completely in a single pass, rather you want to build successive layers, allowing each layer to completely dry, until an even and completely opaque coverage is achieved. If you attempt to wipe the paint onto the surface, you will produce "edge roll-over" and the paint will either bulge over the side edge of the surface, or run down the side, both of which conditions are undesirable. You should apply the paint in a very light tapping, or patting, manner where the tip is ever so lightly tapped onto the surface, moved over half of the width of the paint marker tip and tapped again; and the process continues from one end of the detail to the other. The only exception to this is when you are applying paint to long, continuous details such as the two border lines around the Dash Panel. These features should be lightly glided over using the dry brush method, from one end to the other end, and the tapping method is applied to finish the strokes at the very tips of these details. Aside from the method of application, the most important factor to keep in mind is that you are NOT trying to completely cover the underlying black dye color in a single pass. What you ARE trying to do is build-up multiple, very thin layers of paint until the white completely masks the black underneath. If done in this manner you are left with very sharp, crisp edges and an overall very thin opaque paint coverage of these raised dash panel details. The second most important aspect is that you insure your panel is well supported, i.e.: will not move during the painting process, while the heel of you painting hand is firmly planted on the work surface as you apply paint. This will insure the steadiest hand, and you will therefore have better control of the paint marker tip and where it touches while you apply the paint. Of third importance, as in any paint application process, starting off with a well prepared surface ALWAYS results in a higher quality final appearance. Complete and thorough cleaning, drying, repairs, and re-cleaning are all painstaking and necessary steps before applying any dye or paint to the surface. The instructions below go into greater detail where necessary, and if followed closely will result in a "better than new" looking part for your tractor restoration. Step 1: Thoroughly Clean the Dash Panel Here's where it started! Once removed from the machine, the entire dash panel should be thoroughly cleaned of all dirt, grease, oil, and old marking paint on all sides. Automotive Brake Fluid is a good paint and marking ink softener, but care must be taken to insure the brake fluid does not "melt" the plastic. I normally test the brake fluid method on the back side of the part, or on any surface which will not be seen when the part is re-installed, in order to insure the brake fluid will not attack the plastic material. Use the brake fluid sparingly, and allow it to sit on the surface at least 1/2 hour, to "loosen" any foreign materials (paint, ink, or hard stains) from the surfaces. Then with a combination of 0000 steel wool (try not to scratch the plastic), gentry scraping using the edge of an exact-o knife, and/or dental picks and tooth picks, you can easily remove all of the unwanted debris. Once all of the foreign matter is removed, the plate should be thoroughly scrubbed with a small plastic bristle brush and Dawn Dish Detergent. This will remove any remaining oil and dirt from the plate, the corners, and the edges. Rinse with warm water and allow the piece to thoroughly dry before continuing. Once it is completely cleaned it should look similar to the image below. Starting Point Step 2: Repairing Surface Blemishes This is the tricky part. If any surface blemishes exist, you need to make a choice whether to make a repair or leaving it as-is. Obviously, starting with a high quality unblemished panel is more desirable, but you may not have a choice but to use a "less than desirable" piece due to replacement part availability. Attempting to repair any surface issue may only result in a far worse appearance than leaving it alone. Choose wisely based on your abilities. Only one surface blemish was corrected on this example (the second "N" in "IGNITION"), the second blemish (the "wiggle" in upper left corner of the Electric Clutch "OFF" arrow-bracket) was left alone as it was too dangerous to attempt repair without further damage. The right side of the "N" was smashed down and the right "leg" of the "N" was partially split in two. A small round punch was used to "re-form" the letters edge by heating the punch tip to just below the melt point of the plastic, and "pushing" the letter back into shape. The split essentially closed up and re-bonded to the adjacent part. Care must be taken to not overheat the punch as you do not want to melt the plastic, only make it soft so it will "move". Once repairs are completed, re-clean the part as you did in Step 1. Step 3: Restore Plastic Color and Shine Many products exist which are designed to restore vinyl and plastic to their original luster. I have used many of them with varying results. VHT (A division of Dupli•Color, Inc., a Sherwin-Williams Company) produces a vinyl dye which comes in several colors, and in Gloss and Flat finishes. The product is NOT A PAINT, it truly is a dye designed for vinyl, plastic, cloth, leather, and wood. The vinyl dye, when applied to plastic, forms a polymer on the surface which actually transforms the plastic material surface into a new material matrix. I prefer the look of the hi-gloss finish as it makes plastic parts look more realistically like a "new part" than does the satin finished dye. VHT Vinyl Dye, Gloss Jet Black (p/n: SP941) in the 11 oz. aerosol was used to treat this Dash Panel, which only required a single, light coat to restore the dash panel to its original appearance. NOTE: Allow the dye to absorb and surface-dry at least 4 hours before proceeding to the white painting process. Step 4: Applying the First Coat of White Paint Applying the white paint is rather easy, but does require a little technique and a steady hand. For this step I used Elmer's "Painter's" Opaque Paint Markers (available in most craft and hobby shops). The markers come in several tip-sizes, I used the fine and wide tips here, and is composed of an opaque acrylic paint. The acrylic paint bonds extremely well to the dyed plastic, and holds up to temperature variations and the weather quite well too. LARGE PANEL DETAILS: When using the paint markers, do not press down with any significant force while painting. The driest tip (artists "dry-brush" technique) and the lightest touch (the least amount of downward force) on the plastic produces the best results. Using the wide tipped marker, dry the tip on paper towel and very lightly cover the large borders with a single pass. DO NOT go over them a second time, as doing so will leave "brush marks" in the paint. The result should be an almost see-through appearance of the white paint. Several coats will be necessary, so if the black shows through, leave it alone. Also, "paint" any large details on the face area; such as the choke symbol, large letters, rabbit and turtle; using the wide tip paint marker, but use the "PATTING" paint method described below for these smaller details. SMALL PANEL DETAILS: As before, you are applying a very thin coat, so make sure the marker tip is almost dry and apply only a very thin coat on the first pass. Using the fine-tip paint marker for lettering and small details, use a patting (or tapping) technique to apply paint to the tops of the letters. Begin at one end of the letter and overlap your taps, moving toward the other end of the letter. Don't wipe the paint on, PAT it on! Especially at the ends of the letters. This keeps the paint from "rolling over" the edges of the raised detail. Dry the tip on your paper towel frequently, and between every new detail painted. NOTE: Notice the black showing through the white in the image below. Keep the first coat VERY, VERY light. Step 5: Apply Additional Coats of White Paint ALLOW AT LEAST 4 HOURS BETWEEN COATS The application of paint continues as described in Step 4 until all of the painted areas are completely opaque and covered well. With each pass you will see the paint begin to almost "pool" on the top of the surface. As the paint dries it will flatten out to a nice even coat. The desired result is normally accomplished in just two to three coats of white paint. If you have blotchy or spotty coverage, you can use 800 grit wet-dry sand paper to lightly sand the white faces flat and even the paint coverage, then apply a final top coat after re-clean and dry the part. Make sure you allow the paint to dry thoroughly before sanding, and re-clean the part before applying the next coat of paint. Make sure all surfaces are evenly covered without brush strokes. The image below shows good coverage with very little over-painting or edge "rolling" after only two coats have been applied. Some letters and small details will need to be scraped and cleaned up prior to applying the last coat of white paint. Step 6: Finishing Up The final step in the process is to clean up any mistakes or over-painting (edge-rolling). This step is normally done BEFORE the last coat of white paint is applied, so that any scrape marks or edges can be covered on the final pass. I normally use dental picks, tooth picks and/or the tip of an Exact-O Knife to clean any edges which were over-painted or where errant paint has been deposited between letter lines. Any over-paint on the panels surface can be covered up by spraying some of the VHT dye into a small cup and using a fine tipped artists brush to "dry-brush" the paint drip into oblivion. Once the final coat of white marker paint has dried for at least 24 hours, crumble-up a piece of regular kitchen paper towel and buff all of the white painted details. The paper towel material is just course enough to polish the top surfaces and burnish the edges of the white details, giving your panel a "finished" look. The polishing will also remove any specs of dust which may have settled on the surface during drying time. Your piece will now be remarkably similar to an original new part, and is ready for installation on your pride and joy machine. The completed piece is now "Show-Ready" and looks like the images below. My thanks go out to Bob Maynard ("RMaynard"on the Red-Square forum) for the use of his B-80 dash panel in the creation of this How-To. Bob mentioned somewhere on the bulletin board that he was in the market for a NOS Dash Panel for his B-80 restoration. He also mentioned that he had an old usable one in-hand, but did not think it was show-quality enough for his restoration. I offered to restore his old panel for this tutorial, with the thought that he could perhaps use the result on his B-80 should he not find a suitable replacement. I hope you enjoy the tutorial, and Bob; Thank You for allowing me to use your panel for this example.

I honestly don't have any idea. I'm afraid if I soldered it up that it would break again due to vibration. Almost looks discolored from heat?

Dennis, I'll try to post more pictures as I continue to work on it. I also have the harbor freight electric plastic welder. I bought the rods as well but so far have not been able to use them effectively. I repared a Rubbermaid tank and a drone landing rail for a co-worker so far. I have found that Rubbermaid storage tote lids that I have been saving work very well and i have an assortment of colors to choose from. I cut strips to whatever size I need. This material blends better than any of the rods I have tried. I make the repair by building up material a little high then use various files for rough shaping. When th shape is close i use sandpaper for final finish. I have to do this about 3 times to achieve acceptable results. My wife doesn't ask that any more after I showed her a couple of Craig's list ads. Now she wants to know when I will finish it and what will I use it for or do I plan on selling it.

3/12/2003 must have really been a slow day in the US of A!

I couldn't find them either, your '75 Deck should take #100202. Actually measure your original blades; the length is a diagonal measurement from one corner, thru the center of the center hole to the opposite/diagonal corner, allowing for the worn corners. I think you'll find that the "Gator Blades" will be the most close in size, and if they are short a 1/4" is really no problem, I feel that Gator Blades are a much better choice than regular blades, in most cases, and will cost about the same (often Auto Stores can order them and you save on shipping if on regular deliveries, which is almost every day via their own trucks). Good Luck, and let us know how you come out.

More than one picture is required when plastic welding a steering wheel. I've learned a few things over the decades, and plastic welding is included, but I can't say it's become one of my skills. I can heat it and push it around and sometimes get by and I have a Harbor Freight electric/hot air plastic rod welder but I hope there are others better than I! So please share more info on how to fix chew toys! Oh! And some further thoughts on removal. Indeed you had issues with heat and perhaps there was no "heat" solution to your stuck steering wheel, but for others tough removals, quickly heating one part with the high heat of a cutting torch tip while cooling the endangered parts with a wet rag can be a very handy technique. And man! I keep looking at where the tooth marks were and I'm impressed! More info please! Your wife still asking if it would have been cheaper to buy a brand new one? Whole tractor I mean? If so, tell her you are going to sell the screen rights!

I saw this pic on Facebook

Something wrong here. The wire for the ignition that comes from the ignition switch needs to go to an ignition coil. Check the back of the ignition switch to see what letter that ignition terminal is identified as. Should be an I (eye) for battery ignition or M for magneto ignition. Where does the spark plug wire come from? It should be a coil and what does it look like? Garry

When you jump start the tractor, where EXACTLY do you put the jumper cable plus and minus clamps? both at the battery on the battery cable terminals? (this is the right answer by the way) minus to the tractor frame, plus to the SG? minus to the tractor frame, plus to the battery? minus right on the SG case and "A" terminal? EXACTLY where you place the jumper cables can tell us a great deal about what works and what is still questionable in the electrical system. And yes, an SG can work perfectly fine as a starter and not function properly as a generator. Quick sanity check - place a jumper wire from the SG mounting bolt (ground) to the SG "F" terminal. This mimics the startup default electrical status of the regulator assembly Place the voltmeter leads DIRECTLY ON THE BATTERY POSTS - NOT THE CABLE TERMINALS. Try to crank the engine. If the battery voltage dives down below 9 volts, bad battery. If the battery voltage does not change at all, bad wiring or ignition switch. Of course, remove the F terminal to mounting bolt jumper after this test as with this jumper in place, the SG will be producing over 15 volts output. I'll be in and out this weekend, will check in when I can. Chuck

I could be wrong, but other than HP, the only other difference I am aware of is power steering was optional My New Holland doesn't have PS either, I am looking into adding it. If I do, I'll probably use it for the front end loader instead of the 522xi

Fully charged Battery should be 12.6 volts at rest. What is yours reading. Secondly what is voltage while machine is running. Should be around 13.5-14 volts.

I think there a least one of them guys... in everybody's neighborhood. After installing my rock collection a couple years ago... the issues on my bank have pretty much all gone away.