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Showing most liked content on 07/16/2015 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Just in case you don't regularly check the club section, there is a big announcement posted there. The WHCC now accepts Paypal and all major credit cards via Paypal for membership dues. You can visit the site at: http://www.wheelhorsecc.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=4 Your membership package will be mailed to you via USPS. On behalf of the WHCC, thank you for your continued support !
  2. 7 points
    I have seen that there are some changes at the Wheel Horse Collectors Club and the show. One of the changes is that ALL vendors will be required to be Club members! This makes perfect sense to me, however filling out the form and mailing it in is a hassle so that is the next change..... Wheel Horse Collectors Club NOW accepts PayPal (and credit cards through PayPal) to join or renew your membership! I have already tried it out and it is so easy and fast! In addition to supporting RedSquare, supporting WHCC is a great way to insure that our favorite show continues, so what are you waiting for, JOIN or RENEW today, I did! If you're planning on selling at the show, save your e-mail receipt as proof of club membership, you will be asked!
  3. 5 points
    Awesome! Thanks Eldon! @kj4kicks I don't know who got this pushed through, but I bet you'll see the rewards with a bump in membership!
  4. 4 points
    I was hoping to put an 8 speed transmission on my 854 mostly for the limited slip diff, but it would be nice to have low range every once in a while. Before I knew anything about the differences in transmissions (input shaft/pulley size especially) i happened upon a pretty trashed 867. The transmission shifted smoothly into all the gears and I got it for a song (was at the persons house 3 hours after listed on CL!) so the adventure began. I learned after the fact that this was an excellent bit of luck as it was the only year of 8 speed to have the right input pulley to match up to the engine pulley on my 854! Got the rest of the 867 dealt with a few months back and never had a chance to really take a look at the transmission until tonight. I knew that one hub was welded on the axle and the other was busted up so I preemptively bought good used replacement axles and I have hubs from a C-165 I can use. Ground off quite a bit of really ugly weld, had to bite into the hub and axle a fair amount. Broken hub (with a leaky seal behind it, maybe an early attempt to replace?) Got both hubs off without too much effort... Well the axle keyways look... perfect.. what!? Lets check the hub... WTH!? Keyway is also nearly perfect... whoever welded this was a nutcase. I had to ruin the hub and axle to remove it. Was this a setscrew originally? Looks a bit cobbled. I had mixed in a bit of pure methanol to clean out the oil... Dumped out a gallon of mostly water. No oil to be found. All setup on my 'work station' ready to be torn into. To Be Continued...
  5. 3 points
    1970 GT-14 with the 36" tiller, turns the dirt into brown sugar! Pic is before the restoration of the GT.
  6. 3 points
    I'll pass that request along to the board
  7. 3 points
    Maybe you should get Terry to make you some new decals saying 520-HF. please.
  8. 3 points
    This was a long time needed! Maybe will help get some Chocolate Chip Ice Cream
  9. 2 points
    Did the HF Predator repower. Pretty easy. Sleeve for shaft, Spacers under motor plate, modify PTO mount, modify exhaust. Ignition switch, circuit breaker, throttle, fuel lines, all easy to hook up.(eliminated all gauges and crazy old wiring) Best thing $600. Would have had much more than that in my P220 rebuild. (valve seats) Might not last long might not be able to get parts. But, fun project, and the 520 is ALIVE again!
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    Instead of the bolt, I like to keep the new filter loose/cracked open. It will help speed the fill until it reaches that point. I also always pre-fill the filter before installing it to help as well. Second, on the Napa 1410.
  13. 2 points
    Always wanted to be a member, but never got my act together enough to do the old fashioned payments. Love this!
  14. 2 points
    Can you post some pictures. Sounds very interesting.
  15. 2 points
    You bet. Go to the Instructional Threads & Videos category on the Wheel Horses References section from the home page and you'll find all sorts of good stuff to help you out. You can also download the repair manual here. Then start a thread on your problem and you'll get a ton of help,
  16. 2 points
    I gotta think about that one. I may save it for show and try to get one to work with. This NOS one I got at the Show has a gage wheel which is something I have no experience with. Looks like a good idea though!
  17. 1 point
    Well it's been a while SINCE The Squonk has posted anything much about the Skonkfest 1267. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/52230-ist-annual-sqonkfest/ After arriving back here to Wheel Horse Plaza from The big show, I was armed with a few needed goodies. Skonk is a cantankerous old dude and was loud and rough around the edges like an old sailor at a SpongeBob film festival so some upgradin was needed. I put skinny ag's on by the way to fit Skonk through a door into my rear shop. Plus I added fine 7/16 bolts and lug nuts for easier tire changes. First big issue was how loud he was. Plowin snow at work with the K 301 echoing off the brick and glass was rather obnoxious. So the First order of business was a different exhaust. It started out with a pancake unit, I got a Gravely style muffler from Napa. I was a bit disappointed. These Napa units used to be a lot heavier construction but now they are light and flimsy like every other mower supplier has. I added a stainless stack from a bathroom handicap rail. Still too loud I had my welder friend billy Bob add a baffle into the stack. Much quieter and with some carb tinkering, quieter yet. Next order of business was adding a mid tach-a-matic so I can use my grader blade Hood hit the steering wheel when opened so the steering shaft was lengthened. Next was the seat. The seat on it looked good but wasn't a WH seat and I hate seats sittin right on the fender pan. Plus it was mounted with wood. So off to TSC on Father's day! Next was the battery box. The L & G battery was bouncing all over.. A block of wood was used to take up space in the battery box. The large box was also hitting the steering gear Used a smaller box. Wil get a better one someday. While I was in there, added a fuse holder to the always hot lighter/light circuit Found a neato front Tach-a-matic adapter for the early tractors at the show so I had to put it on. Now if I put the PTO back on I can run a deck blower or hook up my Generator! As you can see, the hood hinge holes were wallowed out and the shaft was shot along with the hood holes Billy Bob and the welder to the rescue What good are all these changes with out doing the lights? Added new reflectors and LED's from Wally World Gotta bee seen at night plowin so Napa supplied the rear LED tail Multi hitch capability Finally driving it It. With the quieter exhaust You could hear Skonk rattle like that sailor, So back to Billy where he reapaired a missing belt guard mount Don't know what the future will hold for Skonk. Right now it's going to be my primary mode of transport at the Steam Pageant. Still on the fence about a restore. There is about 50 lbs. of Industrial red/ Pink on this tractor. Like it got dropped into a vat. Maybe on it's 50th birthday I 'll do it up for the big show in 17
  18. 1 point
    For the 1977 model long frame tractors like a C-120 42" rear discharge model 75-42MR01 Drive belt #102741 is 1/2" x 96.6" --- Spindle belt #6738 is 1/2" x 86" 42" side discharge model 75-42MS01 Drive belt #102742 is 1/2" x 103" --- Spindle belt #1594 is 1/2" x 107.21" Garry
  19. 1 point
    Probably not so much draining as filling - removing the dip stick should facilitate getting air for draining, but filling can be a pain. Bobs method of removing one of those bolts works great, but if for some reason its difficult to get to then scrounge around and find a small piece of tubing 10-12" long and feed it down the fill tube and put your funnel in to hold it in place. This allows air to get into the case and allows the fluid to flow with out 'burping' constantly.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    I mailed them this morning. Weight...7 1/2 lbs Cost...$60.85 Holy Cow Craig...guess there are some collections out there...
  22. 1 point
    Guys, I don't normally reside in the WH world (although I like them a lot), rather the JD world. I have over the years owned a lot of JD's with Onan engines. The Onans are famous for developing "surging" problems via two issues. First the idle jet column inside the carburetor (especially after having sat for long periods of time) tends to get plugged up. It is a tube that is about 2.5-3" long and has several very small holes along it's side and one hole on the bottom. i have and use a set of welding tip cleaning wires to clear these holes. This tube has to have all holes clear to avoid the surging issue. Secondly the intake manifold on these Onans is made in two pieces. The gasket OEM material used to seal both halves deteriorates with age and can cause the surging by allowing the system to suck air thus the need to run with the choke partially closed. This is not difficult to repair, rather it is time consuming. The manifold must be removed, split apart, cleaned thoroughly, and resealed with a suitable sealer that is impervious to gasoline. Now for the starter issue. On the JD's, John Deere changed the later tractor circuits on Onan powered tractors to a system that got rid of the separate solenoid that was used to latch in the starter bendix. This new system used the contacts of the ignition switch to pull in the new starter mounted solenoid. With time it was learned that these ignition switch contacts to prematurely fail. The result was for the starter mounted solenoid was only partially pulled in which resulted in the "clicking" sound when the key was turned. JD then offered a separate relay kit that could be installed on the tractors that relieved the load on the ignition switches by latching in this relay (and carries the current load) allowing the starter solenoid to be adequately pulled in as the tractors were being started. You can view the idler jet within the carb (ref: Item number 5 that I referred to above) by this link. jd carb.pdf .......................Hope all this helps..................Gary H.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Could you add a picture of gear(s), I've got some unidentified bevel gears, definitely not for WH tran or tiller.
  25. 1 point
    The easier the better for the host. You don't want to get too much involved and spend too much money and only 10 guys show up. Not that the 10 guys wouldn't have a good time, but it just doesn't seem worth all the money and time. Moving something from AtoB is something Vince and I are pretty good at. If anyone needs something brought back from the Portland IN show, I can help out there.
  26. 1 point
    Mobile One, yes.
  27. 1 point
    I was thinking 520 PREDATOR
  28. 1 point
    Harbor Freight is pretty good on support of their products so I wouldn't worry too much. Yes, pictures please!
  29. 1 point
    I'm joining because of it, and I saw one other above so it increased by at least two!
  30. 1 point
    I just joined, Karl. I'm glad they finally take paypal. Just a couple of clicks is all it takes.
  31. 1 point
    Glad you have it running now.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Hey you! Yea you, in the peanut gallery. Shut yer pie hole! LOL Pay no attention to the Maynard behind the curtain.
  34. 1 point
    I sure do like the kohler commands. I think they are one of the smoothest engines out there. I did have a sovergn with the OHC 18 hp. It was a 2000 very nice, had power steering as well
  35. 1 point
    I gotta think about that one. I may save it for show and try to get one to work with. This NOS one I got at the Show has a gage wheel which is something I have no experience with. Looks like a good idea though!
  36. 1 point
    I've seen bad condensors cause poor running at higher rpms. Cheap fix if that's the problem.
  37. 1 point
    she said it is a 414,so if it isi orig then it is the 11/8 8 pinion,but as steve said check the axle size,if its a tractor u bought used then it could have a transplant tranny,because other than the hubs being different a 1 inch 4 pinion will bolt up also
  38. 1 point
    Well i havent looked at the one i have but i have ordered the correct keyswitch off amazon matching the part number. Hoping it works. Would jumping it from the solenoid turn it on if the safety switches dont work? Im appreciating all the help. Ill have to try testing the new keyswitch if it doesnt fix it
  39. 1 point
    Brandon, Bill cut the stack and had some stainless metal. Drilled some holes into it, cut it the dia. of the pipe and welded it in.
  40. 1 point
    Thanks, just realized that as well. On closer inspection of the sheared piece, it is a part of that roll pin and not the set screw. Either way, those are easy fixes and its all good news to me!
  41. 1 point
    Got the rest of the plates from Shallowwatersailor and KC9KAS and a Midwest Vans plate that I've had since the 1970's...8 more plates. Total...26 plates No. of States...12 Weight of plates (on my scale)...7 lbs...before packaging I'll wrap them up and mail them either Thursday or Friday. Koen, I hope you have room for all these plates.
  42. 1 point
    Gee Mike, I remember when you bought (stole) those hubcaps. I'll give you what you paid for them.
  43. 1 point
    Really nice work on the upgrades Ian. I would like another video of you driving bad boy.
  44. 1 point
    The shorter foot rest were for the 27" tires. Has D type 6 lug hubs. Needs at least a 2" spacer to raise the seat pan to clear the tires. I put 25" diameter tires on a 312- 8 and just cleared the foot rest by bending the out side forward. I raised the seat pan, bracket and gas tank 1 3/4". I'll add some pictures later Photobucket is not working right now.
  45. 1 point
    Interesting observation as they are both #79365 5xi snowthrowers! On mine, it was just the outer bearing by the chain. I wish that the 5xi version had a removable chain sprocket like the #79360/79362 instead of being welded to the shaft. The replacement shaft is $$$. It probably is due to the additional torque available with the 5xi different engine designs.
  46. 1 point
    Purchased from a Red Square member a few months ago then hauled all the way from the big show by another Red Square member this 1045 serial #21858 is now making it's home in Minnesota. She looks tough but will get the full treatment, new heart is already awaiting to bring this one back to life.
  47. 1 point
    I thought it look really cool with The Duke's blower sittin in front of it!
  48. 1 point
    Jim, i suppose what I consider a cross between a work and show tractor is one that isn't restored to factory spec because it's been personalized with other stuff. I'm not talking like a guy bought everything they have at Auto Zone and threw it on there or anything. But the tractor would also still be used to cut grass. I've love to upgrade the floor mats to the newer style on my 312-8 and also add a cup holder among some other things. I've already upgraded to LED tail lamps and priced out LED 2x3 work lamps that would mount ahead of the pedals and point to the area along side the hood on each side. It'd be a couple hundred bucks though. shame, I had some re-purposed insecticide tube brackets from planters at work that would work great for mounting work lamps. Not in the budget to finish the project right now. that makes me wonder if we offer a thrust washer kit. We have a lot of other kits for heat shrink, cotter pins, electrical ends etc.
  49. 1 point
    Never underestimate the power of a rattle can ... Just saying ...
  50. 1 point
    Here are some pictures of the Wheel Horse representation at the Little Guys Show today., Friday 5/15 In no particular order.
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