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Showing most liked content on 06/02/2015 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Here's an excerpt from one of the engine builder guys: The 12 and 13 fin 16hp Kohler blocks - The 12 fin Kohler K-series and Magnum engine block models K341/M16 (16hp) have an indentation in the cooling fins (clearance for a straight oil fill/dipstick tube) and a threaded hole towards the bottom of the cylinder. This block have a thinner cylinder wall than the 13 fin block. This block is most common, and used mainly for light duty lawn and garden equipment applications, and can be safely bored up to a 3.825" [pulling] piston without danger of seriously weakening the integrity of the cylinder wall.But the 13 fin Kohler engine block model K341 (16hp) have a thicker cylinder wall. This block is somewhat rare, and used mainly for heavy duty industrial applications and can be bored for a much bigger [pulling] piston, up to 4-1/8". Both blocks originally have a STD cylinder bore of 3.750
  2. 3 points
    I have been watching craigslist for a while now and there has not been any decent priced tractors in my area. I saw this one and sent the guy a email about it and immediately got a response back. I Hitched the trailer to the truck and went out to get it! only paid $350! It is a 416-H with hydraulic and a 16hp kohler magnum and it came with a side discharge and rear discharge deck and a snow plow. I think the hood has been replaced because it has 416-8 on it but it is a hydro. Any idea on what year it is? mod# 311k803 and ser#21522.
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    I think if I were you I would just buy another wh and make one into a narrow front and keep the other original. But be careful 1 turns into 2 pretty soon you have 20.
  5. 2 points
    ​Ummm...my latest truck aint got em (but my next one will!) Mike......... Is your latest truck really a "truck"
  6. 2 points
    Kind of a shame to drive all that way just to turn it over that fast. What'd it take, a week?
  7. 2 points
    To get the 1533 bearings out of the case halves, I use a slide hammer with a small 2 legged puller attached to the bottom. I have in the past used a long drift from the end of the axle tube to knock them out. Both of these methods are not ideal - in both cases you are impacting on the inner race while the outer race is being held in the case. This can cause a small impact mark on one of the races or the balls themselves. But in this case you dont have much option. I've never hurt a bearing doing this, but it is possible that you can. The slide hammer is the safest method in my opinion.
  8. 2 points
    I never expected this thread would evolve in the way it has and in a way I got the answer I was looking for from Paul in terms of the NLA status of one of the cap bearings for a Sundstrand so decided I'd better remove it from the casing along with the famous (or should I say infamous) 1533 bearings to keep as spares. The 'holy grail' challenge to find a replacement for the 1533 bearings never ceases to inspire guys to try and there is an element of this here in that sometime the chances are that Sundstrand owners are going to need a suitable replacement for the needle bearing in question.. Summing up all that's been said so far and filling in some gaps it would appear that.. The original WH #8049 bearing was a Torrington M-16101 or equivalent being 5/8" deep (or width I believe they call it) This was fine and dandy until the bearing became obsolete from the manufacturers standard range. Rather than having a batch custom made ToroWH substituted a bearing designated WH #5960 which was a Torrington M-1681. The bearing had the same ID and OD but was 1/2" width instead of 5/8". (I have now found other references including on this forum to the 5960 being a Torrington M-1681). One must assume that engineers decided that despite the smaller area of contact with the shaft, the bearing was capable of withstanding the loads put on it by the transmission. Again all was fine and dandy until this bearing was also discontinued so the search for a replacement becomes of considerable interest to D owners and also C Auto owners with the future in mind. A possible answer can be found in this thread http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/34389-thinking-of-giving-up-rebuilding-my-two-wheelhorse-tractors/?page=1 where a BCE168 bearing by INA is suggested if you read far enough down the thread. It means putting up with a 1/2" width rather than 5/8". So to my next and hopefully final question - having split the old case and seen the infamous 1533 bearings for the first time, what's the best type of puller to get them out without damage?
  9. 1 point
    I'm looking at picking up a 418-8 low hours good price etc. I believe these were only made in 1987. On the unit I'm looking at the hood has "engine cooling vents" . I've never seen these before on a 400 series tractor. Or a 300 for that matter. Why does the 418-8 have them? They don't have Onan engines do they? The engine in the photos doesn't look like my Kohler in the 414-8. Any known issues to look for/ be aware of, other then the obvious... black smoke, oil caked on engine. It has ridiculously low hours - 287 - how difficult are those meters to alter? That being said, the seller, at first glance, appears to be straight up. Thanks John
  10. 1 point
    ​Woo Hoo! I've been thinking about that Raider all morning, Thank you Ed
  11. 1 point
    Yeah, I see his tail out there on a limb on the right. I haven't checked them since this morning...Too busy getting the Raider 14 running for Van. That nest still looks skimpy on snacks. I wonder if this is part of the parents plan to encourage them to leave the nest and feed themselves.
  12. 1 point
    I don't know Ritchie I probaly would have saved it......looks like most of the parts are there, then again I have been known to make some real stupid decisions when it comes to Wine, Women & Wheels Horses......guess I am just a glutton for punishment.......nice find anyway.
  13. 1 point
    Thanks 312Hydro, found a piece of angle iron at work today just about that size. Just drill some holes and I am all set.
  14. 1 point
    Very nice deal you got there! And I think the hood and motor might have came from a 416-8? As far as I know from the research ive done the 416-H's all came with onan motors and the 416-8's that came with the kohler magnum's are not very common. Ive often thought that would be the ideal tractor for power, fuel efficiency, and reliability. Ive never had the experience to be around the 16hp thumper but I sure hope to get the chance someday.
  15. 1 point
    The fuel pump lever need to be on the correct side of the cam. I'm not sure if it goes on top or underneath. Some models will allow the pump to be installed incorrectly.
  16. 1 point
    Well I pressure washed it and this is all that was left. Trust me it was a lot worse than the pictures led on. It would take too much elbow grease and a lot of sheet metal to get this one back to life. However, there are mechanical parts on this one that I was missing on some of my others. Now I have a spare tranny to rebuild,two good back tires and a decent hood should I need one.
  17. 1 point
    for the 1533 I use a long brass drift pin through the axle tube and tap them out
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    ​Well, I was looking at the pictures way too early in the morning without coffee, and I agree that it is not a '73 8 4, or B-80. I now notice that it has tach-a-matic hitches, a tach-a-matic mule drive, clutch/brake combo, missing the old style PTO rod assembly. The 10" rear and 6" front rims were standard on the Commando 800. I think @scotty hit the nail on the head.
  20. 1 point
    I will have some room down or back from the show. Not a lot on the way down but some. As long as you meet me on my way or it gets dropped off here I should be able to haul it down. Coming back no stops pick up here. Also have to run to Kentucky after the show for one empty on the way out as of now
  21. 1 point
    i would check gct tire they have a cheap set of tri ribs that work well for about 60$ for the pair shipped to ur front door
  22. 1 point
    Had a little job for my puller today. Mrs K wanted a shrub removed. The Commando 8 was up to the task.
  23. 1 point
    Here's the easiest way I know how to. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/category/1-redsquare-support/
  24. 1 point
    I left a few of the little mares, the big stallions, and some old nags out for some air today. The big old 160 dually and the 953 were a little cranky and wouldn't come out for the pic.
  25. 1 point
    I might have a change of plans in the opposite direction! It looks like I will be able to attend now.... working on the details. Am I still invited to the fire?
  26. 1 point
    You need a round hood, Ed! At least one! You have everything thing else in body style represented in the pic or in the barn! It's time I get a round hood too! And another shed, garage or bank barn! Nice looking horses!
  27. 1 point
    1st...if you are going to try to save that needle bearing, use a good arbor,or socket that fits good and tap the bearing through from the outside toward the inside...less chance of ruining the bearing. 2nd...there is now a couple of threads on doing a little machining (either on the differential carriage or on the case half) to make it so another bearing other then the #1533 will work. 3rd...I think you are correct in thinking that the 5/8" thick bearing is NLA, and people have been going to the 1/2" thick bearing...just tap the new bearing in 1/8" past flush. Good thread and a great discussion.
  28. 1 point
    I think I'm going to check it out tonight, just for fun (and more pictures) to see what it really is. I couldn't get a price from the gentleman over the phone...
  29. 1 point
    Can't say I have ever seen one "bass ackwards" on a GT.
  30. 1 point
    ​Actually Steve, A thunder storm blew in and I had to herd them back to the barn in a hurry.
  31. 1 point
    My guess is that it is a 1973 8HP 4-Speed.
  32. 1 point
    600 hours on it. Not too bad for a 87. ​i got around 901 and still doesn't burn oil and runs great. I think they will go around 2,000 hours.
  33. 1 point
    John. Brings up another question.... can we no longer THANK a member for their reply?
  34. 1 point
    ​Thanks Koen, she will look even better by the end of next week ​I'm not sure yet until I get all the front end together and have a look... I think something will be needed to hide a space under the front of the hood, buy we shall see. ​Thanks dude. Most of Friday was spent dealing with Nigel's latest Fleabay purchase (Pic's coming soon in a new thread ) but I did manage to get some WN time in.. Right side foot plate and handbrake lever bolted on. The 90 degree steering box thingy was cracked open and filled with grease before being attacked with some red oxide... It will be getting a proper clean-up before the top coat goes on, but as I had a can near my hand it seemed rude not to spray it The rear axle is back in and assembled.. I had forgot just how much I hate drum brakes, getting the springs and shoes in is a right pain... It's a shame the new brake shoes were the wrong ones (I'm starting to get quite good at ordering the wrong parts now!), but the old ones still have plenty of life in them so they will do for now... The new brake cylinders I ordered were the right ones so they went in.. And that's things up to date again, things are looking good for a test drive next week
  35. 1 point
    It's already on Ebay. I'd be tempted to buy it just to mow with it. That tractor is beggin' to be worked.
  36. 1 point
    I'll be looking for a few 1276 parts like a stock seat (or close to it), the clutch assembly for the end of the crankshaft and a stock muffler. I will have several sets of these floor mats for sale - $20 set. The attached pictures show them on a Radier 12. Can't wait, I'm starting to get giddy . . .
  37. 1 point
    I'm far from knowing anything about the value in $$ of such a machine.........But If I had to....I would guess $3500- $4000.... But it's also nice just to stare at you pics for free.. Nice Tractor!!
  38. 1 point
    Chances are that's not what is rattling. You are probably correct about the pto pin.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Just tighten it and keep an eye on it. Even if it fell out, you would be okay because the cross shaft would probably keep the gear from coming off. If you want to, you can remove it and replace the copper washer, but it's only purpose is to seal it from leaking oil. As I said, I'd just tighten it and keep an eye on it.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Planning to be there again (three years in a row) with Jay and James. Gonna try the camping thing this time to get the full effect of the Big show. Difinetly looking forward to seeing all my Red Square friends! Planning to arrive Thursday as usual. Looking to buy maintenance items like fuel tank caps and shifter boots. I would like to see one of Bob's wheel stud conversion kits. Also would like to find some AG tires at a good price, and of course anything else I can't live without LOL
  43. 1 point
    Guess I am a little late to the party. Sorry, I had some things going on this winter that may have kept me from being there this year. The path has cleared up (some good and some not so good) so Mrs Dino and I will be there again this year. Tuna...I will miss you at the show. I am looking forward to the show again.
  44. 1 point
    I was finishing up servicing my 418-A When I checked the hydro fluid, I am almost certain it is filled with Automatic tranny fluid When I looked up what it takes, (thanks Gwest for the excellent manuals) it says 10w30 or 10w40 Is that correct? I am going to change the filter and fluid, but as the guy said to Dirty Harry,"I gots to know"
  45. 1 point

    Version

    910 downloads

    Operator manual IPL 8 pages 847.19KB IPL #A-7136 12 pages 981.18KB Tractor drive belt for 400 and 550 #1569 - (4L x 28.95" or 1/2" x 28.95") Wheel Horse # 1014 clutch pedal spring replaced by 83-2730 4.500" between hooks, .070" wire, .520" coil OD, .380 coil ID, 3.570" coil length, 52 + 2 half coils Ignition switch with 3 terminals for 550 is 3656 and nla. See PSB #069 Lube chart SS Details and attachments 2 pages 05.19KB 1960 model 400 1960 serial numbers that have shown up for the 400 21900 - First 400 built 22502 22928 23343 23374 23443 2428x 24500 24910 - May be a 550 25921 - May be a 550 26637 - May be a 550 27385 27405 28166 29023 30253 30929 - May be a 550 30931 or 40931 - May be a 550 401 or 551 32506 - May be a 550 33007 33022 33190 33445 33536 - May be a 550 34016 34233 34478 36064 37875 40241 - May be a 550 42383 --------------------------------------------------------------------- Details and attachments 2 pages 104.70KB 1960 model 550 1960 serial numbers that have shown up for the 550 24750 - First 550 built 24910 - May be a 400 25921 - May be a 400 26026 26637 - May be a 400 27956 28676 28886 29255 30929 - May be a 400 30931 or 40931 - May be a 400 401 or 551 31170 32352 32506 - May be a 400 33536 - May be a 400 35952 36536 40241 - May be a 400 41345

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