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Showing most liked content on 05/31/2015 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    could not pass this up for $10 bucks,the seat alone was worth it.
  2. 3 points
    I tilled and groomed the Atv trails on our property with the Big D. The 50" tiller works great for this. Check it out
  3. 3 points
    Went over to the Nittany Antique Machinery Assoc Spring Show outside Centre Hall, PA yesterday. Hung around for the consignment sale and checked out the venders. I was looking for a decent seat for the 417 project and whatever. The consignment sale had a few Wheelhorse tractors on the block including an Onan 416-8 Speed and an 853 with an H60 or H70 repower and an old WH Suburban that needed work . (The Onan fired and ran decent). Also on the block was a C101, a C110 with a K181 repower in it plus some WH lawn tractors and attachments. I bid on the 853 up to $105 bucks. I think it sold for 180. It was straight and all there but as much as I want a round hood, I need to make room for it before getting one so my mantra of "no rain or snow shall fall on any I own" isn't thrown out the window. Nice crowds, steam engines, hit and miss and a ton of flea market stuff. And it was hotter than.............................usual! I never even thought of taking pics so I already know that: It's OK. It isn't the first time I've done something worthless and it won't be the last!
  4. 2 points
    Finally got around to working on this again, and I am happy to say my 702 seems to be back in business! Today I worked on the Wheel Horse agaon and tackled the original problem of the tranny grinding gears after installing a new drive belt. The problem was the missing guide on the belt guard. User "Big Show or Bust", posted a picture of his belt guard, and sure enough my guard was missing the guide/ belt brake on the guard. (THANKS AGAIN BIG SHOW OR BUST!) So today I fabricated a bracket and installed it on my belt guard, and it worked perfect! (I'm still not sure why the old worn out belt worked without this guide) So the 702 is back in business, although I had a big detour with repairing and welding the rear frame . As mentioned in my original first post, my grandfather was the original owner of this 702, so I really want to keep her going so I will be able to pass her on to my son. (He's only 1.5 now- so we got a long time to go!) My grandfather was a Wheel Horse guy, he started with the 702, and later upgraded to the C-165. He bought them both new, and they are both mine now. The C-165 is in awesome original condition, and is my work horse. Anyways I want to thank everyone who posted on this thread for help, I greatly appreciate it!
  5. 2 points
    Thaddeus maintaining the drive. Pushing limestone. Blade and grader box.
  6. 2 points
    ​Not to hijack the thread, but what you said is a good subject for the "Forum Upgrade: I think I found a problem" thread. I too am not happy with the way pictures are inserted into the text. ​I hesitated to add to Karls problems Bob, thinking this was a problem with my poor PC skills. I have posted the problem as you suggested in the "Forum Upgrade". ​Where ever you set the cursor, the picture you select will go when you click the little "+" button for "insert into post". You will see this button once you upload an image or file and there will be one on each attachment. Set the cursor to the place you want the image to go BEFORE you hit the "+" button. If you do NOT add them to your post with this button, they will just appear as they were uploaded. You can go back an easily edit your post to have the pics show where you want them to be.
  7. 2 points
  8. 1 point
    I can not count how many times I've been asked about will this engine fit, or will this oil pan fit?? most times the first question I ask is what style block do you have ?? large or small base ?? BUT there is one exception to that rule I will cover that later. I'm writing this post to help clear up that question, first this only applies to 10, 12, 14 and 16 HP Kohlers, they used two style blocks commonly referred to as large or small base blocks. We will start with the large base or eared block used on most WH tractors from 1967 to the last Magnum about 1987, these blocks use the bigger oil pan, and the pan bolts on from the top side through ears on the block, this style oil pan is the one that bolts directly to the frame, the two bolts on the right side that hold it to the frame go from under the frame into blind bolt holes in the bottom of the pan, the pan will hang over the frame some on that side, with the mounting ears on the pan NOT being used. This is a large base block and pan, note how long the pan is and where it bolts to the block Here you can see where the pan hangs over the frame, at this point under the frame is where the bolts go from the bottom in to the blind holes in the pan. The holes outlined in red are the blind holes used to bolt the pan to the frame from the bottom, the holes in green are the ones that hang over the frame. Here you can see the bolts that hold the pan on, going through the ears in the block. That pretty much covers the large base blocks. Next is the small base block used on the shaker plate engines, and some of the mid 60's 10hp engines in WH tractors, this style block is also common in Cub tractors, and others but we are talking WH here. The small base block the oil pan bolts on from the bottom of the engine, it does not have ears on the block, the pan is closer to a square in shape than the large base block, here is a pic of a small base block and oil pan. There are many many styles of oil pans to fit the small base block, other brands of tractors use pans in all shapes, and depths so when swapping this style pan you have to watch how long the oil dipper is on the bottom of the connecting rod, it can be cut to fit a shallower pan, WH used two basic pans on this engine a very shallow pan on the early 10 hp and a mid depth on the shaker plate engines. This pan is a shaker style pan used in the late 70's early 80's on the shaker engines This pan is the flat bottom style used on the 1045, 1055, 1075 and 1046 also used on many Cub engines and other brands, the dipper on the connecting rod is very short on the engines that use this pan. This is a deep pan on a Cub engine, I do beleive it uses the same dipper as the large base blocks with the big oil pan. Here is a shot of both styles together, to give you a idea of how the blocks look side by side, note on the large base block the cut outs at each end, I will be talking about them and the 4 holes you see where a small base oil pan could fit with a few mods. Here are the pan gaskets side by side and over top of each other. Ok now we will talk about how a small base oil pan can be used on a large base block, note the red circles they point out the cut outs in the block where the small oil pan will not seal, this area can be filled up with JB weld or other compound that will stick to metal and take the heat, then note the green circles they show the holes that will need to be tapped to bolt the pan to, so far all blocks I have seen have the holes but are not tapped, with these mods a small pan can be used on this block, also if needed you could cut most of the ears off the block. Now some blocks (very few) are set up from the factory to except both style oil pans, most common found on JD tractors as they use a shaker mount set up that uses the ears on the block to mount it but still uses a small oil pan, here is a duel pan style block note is does not have the cut outs in the block like a normal large base block does. Just remember to check the dipper on the rod, to long and it will hit the pan, to short and it may not splash lube properly. I hope this helps clear up a few questions about block styles and how they differ
  9. 1 point
    I just want everyone to know that there is a whirled of hurt coming to the show this year.
  10. 1 point
    Would a WH 244H Headlight Assembly fit on a WH 212-6? They look just about identical to me. Thanks.
  11. 1 point
    So I just purchased a nicely running WH 212-6 (32-12 K601) and I am in the process of performing some maintenance on the tractor as there were a few TLC issues. The carb is leaking some gas and I suspected it would be the main O-ring for the bowl and indeed when I opened it the gasket simply was not there. My main question is in reference to the float. The float is not level when removing the bowl rather it is tilted downward at an angle from the pin. Should the float be level once the bowl is removed? If so what is the best way to remove the pin and the relevel the float. There is a great diagram for the carburetor here: http://www.mowerpartpros.com/p/wheel-horse-parts/#/Toro_Consumer/32-12K602%2c_212-6_Tractor%2c_1988/CARBURETOR/32-12K602-2664-1988/810543R1-43R10027-00012 Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  12. 1 point
    Slovonski, the dash is scrubbed and cleaned with a bristle brush and dawn dish detergent. The vinyl is recolored using VHT Gloss Black Vinyl Dye in a spray can. The white lettering is acrylic paint pens. I use two sizes, 1/8" and 1/16". Once the two or three coats of white are applied and thoroughly dry, I buff the face with a paper towel. That's it. I did a step-by-step article on how to do it a few years ago ... http://www.mywheelhorse.com/modules.php?name=docs2&do=show_doc&id=1
  13. 1 point
    A bit more progress today before the rain threatened to open up the skies. Got almost everything blasted and in paint, all the painting that's left are the running boards and belt guards. Dash tower and steering back in, as is the seat forward cross-member and amp meter. Let these parts dry for five days and I'll wet-sand the hood and fender pan and apply clear-coat. The rest of the painted parts will be re-installed as-is. Also got the dash cleaned and re-colored, and have the first coat of white added to the lettering. The dash should only need one more coat I think. Everything moving along nicely. Might even have this ready for the BIG Show. We'll see.
  14. 1 point
    Model number is written with a dash 1-0380. The 9 on the end is not used but if you subtract 5 from that 6th digit you get the model year. 9-5=4=1974. You will see 6, 7, 8 and 9 on the attachments at the time also representing 1971, 1972, 1973 and 1974. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/3341-tractor-1974-c-160-8-speed-da-tiplpdf/ Garry
  15. 1 point
    This is Erin digging with the backhoe
  16. 1 point
    We have 3 acres of woods and 1.5 acres for the cabin and yard. The Big D's take care of it all. From mowing plowing snowblowing stump removal and of coarse trail grooming.
  17. 1 point
    ​ ​Good job driving that Wheel Horse Kevin, I would like to watch you at a tractor pull,if I was a bit closer than Idaho. Good luck,Idaho Jim
  18. 1 point
    My first wheel horse was my 1964 ,, 854. One week later to the day I bought a 1988 ,, 416-8. Now I am up to 5. I am new to the hobby, a little over a year and a half. But we just put our home for sale, I have a very large 2 car garage, my safe haven. For now I stopped buying and shudder to think about selling. Sadly, that might happen. A few might go. Dam, I hate even typing that. Genn
  19. 1 point
    ​Wife has to install picture and so far she has had no luck doing it. she will try again soon. Thank's Idaho Jim
  20. 1 point
    I wish they would play the Canadian Anthem as well I thought the girl last night eyes were going to pop out of her skull She really tried to over sing it There's always fights in hockey. Now are we going to have opera singer wars too?
  21. 1 point
    First, check your fuses. If it is the same setup as my 416-H, the oil pressure switch has two circuits. One is closed when the engine is off and until the oil pressure reaches 5 psi. That causes the oil light on the dash to flash when the key is turned on, and until the engine is started and oil pressure builds up. When it reaches 5 lbs, it opens turning off the light. At the same time, when the oil pressure reaches 5 lbs, the other circuit closes. This connects the ground side of the hour meter. If the oil light does not come on with the key on and engine not running, I would suspect that the switch has gone bad.
  22. 1 point
    ​Thanks Koen, she will look even better by the end of next week ​I'm not sure yet until I get all the front end together and have a look... I think something will be needed to hide a space under the front of the hood, buy we shall see. ​Thanks dude. Most of Friday was spent dealing with Nigel's latest Fleabay purchase (Pic's coming soon in a new thread ) but I did manage to get some WN time in.. Right side foot plate and handbrake lever bolted on. The 90 degree steering box thingy was cracked open and filled with grease before being attacked with some red oxide... It will be getting a proper clean-up before the top coat goes on, but as I had a can near my hand it seemed rude not to spray it The rear axle is back in and assembled.. I had forgot just how much I hate drum brakes, getting the springs and shoes in is a right pain... It's a shame the new brake shoes were the wrong ones (I'm starting to get quite good at ordering the wrong parts now!), but the old ones still have plenty of life in them so they will do for now... The new brake cylinders I ordered were the right ones so they went in.. And that's things up to date again, things are looking good for a test drive next week
  23. 1 point
    Welcome tp Red Square! Only problem with 4beers is that it soon turns to 6beers!
  24. 1 point
    Really nice condition 416-8 (Kohler Magnum engine) was at an auction yesterday. Tractor had only 185 hours on it and came with an absolutely unused 42" side discharge deck. (Wrong Mule drive however) went for $1,475.00. if only I wasn't so cheap
  25. 1 point
    ​Not to hijack the thread, but what you said is a good subject for the "Forum Upgrade: I think I found a problem" thread. I too am not happy with the way pictures are inserted into the text. ​I hesitated to add to Karls problems Bob, thinking this was a problem with my poor PC skills. I have posted the problem as you suggested in the "Forum Upgrade".
  26. 1 point
    i had a 312-A that use to do that also or something very similar but only when the tractor got hot so the hotter out it was the faster it happened. i swapped out the magneto but did not help. finally talked to my dad's old dealer and he told me it was the valve sticking. so i took the tractor to him and he pulled the valves and sure enough it had carbon build up on it and the in the valve guide so he opened up the valve guides and did a valve job and sure enough it cured my problems with the tractor. he said that he had valves so tight he has had to cut the head off and then drive the stem down and cut it off till he got it all out. so from what he told me it will only get worse if you leave it alone and do nothing. good luck but i would look at the valves eric j
  27. 1 point
    See, there's the problem. My world is upside down so to everyone else it looks right side up... Lol... You're welcome, man. Nice old tractors
  28. 1 point
    No RJ-25, 35, Senior, or Super C's yet... but, the day is young.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Yes, you can dig out that seal and replace it without dropping the trans. I think the 5060 has 1 1/8" axles...that seal would be SKF 11050. If, by chance, the axle is 1" use SKF 9815. The seal is only about 1/8" thick, just use an ice pick or small screw driver to dig it out. As Bob hinted, if you have a bad bearing...a new seal is not going to fix your problem. Check for up/down and side/side movement in the axle when you get the seal out. Slop in the axle would indicate a bad bearing.
  31. 1 point
    Deck bent? Blade tapping a baffle? Idler pulley arm loose and thumping? Just a thought.
  32. 1 point
    I have one of those tubs on stilts too... always assumed it was home made.
  33. 1 point
    Kind of ironic that the knocks occur on two different engines with the s a m e deck . I'd be checking the deck pulleys / spindles out for smooth operation
  34. 1 point
    Wheel Horse tractor with stack, 16HP Kohler, Mac Truck hood ornament, a very focused 7 year old with camo pants and good looking pair of brogans hooked up to a weight sled! If Norman Rockwell was alive he'd be painting this! -Chris in Florida. ​
  35. 1 point
    My first is documented in this forum. I got it almost 2 years ago...It's the C-161 Twin Briggs in my avatar. Spent the first year doing repairs rather than restoration. It runs great and cuts well. Decided to hold off on restoration and work on my 3 GT-14's I gathered in the meantime. Along the way I also picked up a tiller and large snow plow. Made it to the big show last year. I definitely have a mild addiction:-)
  36. 1 point
    That is going to be one mean little tractor. Love it.
  37. 1 point
    Are you still going with the leaf spring looking front?
  38. 1 point
    Dad, that's a slick setup for the pedals for Kevin.
  39. 1 point
    My first WH was a 257H with many implements and used it for 15 years to mow and plow snow. Then I was at a dealer getting parts and picked up a derelict C145 Hydro with a 42in deck and a snowblower for $100. Then I found a C165 8sd for a bit more. Well you know ….
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    The man who owned it previous to me had taken great care of this machine and was the original owner. I have the original loan document as well as the original manuals and bill of sale. I bought to in 2007 after he'd passed away in 2002, and it sat untouched for over four years in his shed. The day I went to see his wife and look at the tractor, a neighbor had installed a new battery, we fueled it up, and it fired immediately. To say the least I was quite pleased and have been ever since. It's simply an honor for me to return this machine to its original glory.
  43. 1 point
    New arrival here today.
  44. 1 point
    Well, here's what I'm starting with. The first 4 pics were taken 7 years ago (when the machine was 34 y/o) when I first picked up the machine from a local seller. Been cutting with it every weekend in the summer, and throwing snow every winter. Time to refresh this baby. And the last 5 are as of this afternoon ... More to follow soon.
  45. 1 point
    homework time for you google "335hz 12v hella horn" find the manufacture's data for power consumption if power consumption is in watts, divide that number by 13.8 to give amps drawn when vehicle is powered up. double that amp draw (for a generous safety margin) and select a switch for the doubled amperage.
  46. 1 point
    My first was a 701.....it was a freebie and it was a runner! I sold it a few years ago at the WH show and have regretted it ever since. Mike.....
  47. 1 point
    I believe it was a commando 800. It had a 36" RD deck and a 8 HP B&S. I think I bought it in 1979. I was 15 and mowed about 10-12 yards with it. It had a electric clutch. It was under powered. It always had troubles on grades. After that, I didn't buy a Wheel Horse or any garden tractor for 30 years.....I was looking for a tractor with a RD mower deck. Wheel Horse was the only one that I knew of.Then the addiction started!!
  48. 1 point
    My family had obtained an '88 211-5 with a bagger from my aunt when she moved to California and didn't want to bring it with her. I was about 8, and I'd ride it for hours and hours. And then my wheel horse gene hid dormant for a few years up until two years ago. And well.....since then.....we all know :)
  49. 1 point
    The one that started the lunacy for me was a little 656.The rest is history.
  50. 1 point
    If you do end up with another brand that doesn't have a negative enough offset you can do wheel spacers to make up the difference. I got some Jeep 5x4.5 spacers off of eBay and used threaded 7/8" rod to make studs. These off-white painted JD 23x8.5" wide rims work nicely with this arrangement -- if I didn't have the spacers, I'd have rubbing issues for sure:
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