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Showing most liked content on 04/09/2015 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Just put gas in her today and she fired right up. It's been a labor of love, when I first got her everything was shot.Thanks to everyone on the forum for all the help. Looking forward to the next round hood project.
  2. 6 points
    Just a little more melting and I can try her out on the lawn. The last time I mowed with this tractor was over 40 years ago. It has been in my dad garage all that time. I cleaned it up put a new plug and gas runs great.
  3. 4 points
    JUST PICK UP A 1976 C120 AUTO TONIGHT 4 MILES FROM HOME. I GAVE A $100 FOR IT. PO SAID IT RUNS BUT NEEDS A FUEL PUMP. DECALS AND METAL TAG SAYS 76 C120 AUTO, BUT MOTOR TAG READS K341S AND IT DOES HAVE 10 HEAD BOLTS. WILL TRY TO GET IT RUNNING TOMORROW.HERE ARE SOME PICTURES FOR NOW MORE INFO LATER.
  4. 2 points
    Nothing got in my eyes but I had the strangest situation with a wire wheel strand. I was cleaning some screw threads using a wire wheel in my drill press. Didn't think anything of it. When I was finished working on the project, I went to take a shower and all of a sudden there is something that I can't see sticking in the top of my left shoulder. It actually was facing towards the outside. I got my wife to look and she took a 3/4" piece of wire from the wire wheel out of my shoulder. I can not figure out how it got there as I was wearing a jacket, flannel shirt, and T-shirt while cleaning the screws. I just can't stress enough to wear goggles or wrap-around safety glasses while using anything that rotates.
  5. 2 points
    it was a fairly nice day and the horses wanted out i will have to let all the rjs out real soon because they are a little restless now that some of the other horses are being led outside.
  6. 2 points
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5kkcOvPW6Y
  7. 2 points
    I have purchased two 857's over the last two years. Both have come from the Maryland or south central Pennsylvania area. I will tell you that in my opinion, a nice 857 with accessories, that has been maintained and garage kept, should be valued at a price not unlike those mentioned in the first two responses. If you can get it for less, all the better. My method has always been to take (in cash) the most money you are willing to pay, offer less, and settle somewhere in-between if possible.
  8. 2 points
    Awesome that it's still in the family... hopefully it'll always stay that way too. .
  9. 1 point
    Paid a visit again to the first home of my Raider 12 down in Billingshurst Sussex today to meet up with the Daughter and Son-In-Law of the Lady I bought the Tractor from back in 2008. The Lady (no longer with us) fortunately she was able to see pictures of how it looked after I got it cleaned up and working. It looked like this after it laid derelict for at least 18 years - Most you know what it looks like now, but to digress. Today, I was given a DVD that has been compiled from old Super 8 film they had found in the Attic when preparing to move out which told the story of their Home they had made and the Smallholding (Miniature Farm) over the years between 1969- 2005. To my surprise, there is some footage of the Day the Raider 12 was delivered in 1972 and is shown being driven cutting the grass. Quality is not good and I had to take a screen shot from it- You may notice the Deck is the 2 Blade shaft drive type...... What they never mentioned was that they also had a little Lawn Ranger earlier back in 1969 and is seen in this screen shot also from Super 8 footage- And I didn't know this type of Ranger had the bright plated Lift Lever !. It was also a very pleasant first warm day of the year for me as well
  10. 1 point
    Picked up a nice 96' 314-8. Has been well cared for and was in very nice shape. Photo is a little "grainy" since it was dark and there was a reflection from the water (rained all the way home) while I was refueling at the gas station tonight. Thad (Crossed State-Lines and brought back to OH)
  11. 1 point
    I thank you very much. I am really bad about finding those manuals on here!!! I'm sure if it were a snake it would have bit me! lol!
  12. 1 point
    I got mine from tractor supply only 60 bucks and more comfortable than original.
  13. 1 point
    I just bought one from Northern tool for my 310-8. $52 shipped. Very nice seat IMO. Will see how it holds up. Nothing fancy, just a low back similar to original. Bolted right up. MU
  14. 1 point
    Here are a few pictures of my All Original 312-8 with PECO Vac. Came outfitted from dealer just how you see it. I bought it from original owner a bit over a year ago. I only use it late fall for clean up. I modded the bag system so removing when full is easier. I also did freshen up the deck with a few patch welds, complete strip and re-paint. Tractor is how it came back in the day. Hope you all like pictures. MU
  15. 1 point
    Awesome. Thanks Craig Alan!
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Steve thanks for the lead, talked to sandblast Joe yesterday, will be seeing him soon. Will be taking to the paint guy today, try to coordinate everything so it all comes together as seamlessly as possible... That said, picked up an OEM Kohler carb kit and points from my long time friends at Newtown Power Equipment yesterday, got the old girl up off her hoops once I got Home and started the dissassembly process. Took a few pics along the way, enjoy.
  21. 1 point
    A few more pics: I'm certain that the scarring on your parts is primarily from the chewed up filter screen. It is also likely that some of it got into relief and flow valves on the base, accessible from the external ports. You should have a look at them for broken springs and/or valves. Here is what I found on the last one that I rebuilt.
  22. 1 point
    Make sure you soak it good for a couple of days with PB Blaster. Also use a Roll Pin Punch. you find it will stay on the pin a lot easier and will allow for a more solid blow from your hammer.
  23. 1 point
    It will fit if it's of the newer style with the plastic top. If it has a Fiberglas top it is of the older design and the cab is smaller, it was made for the older C series. It will fit but might need some tweaking here and there.
  24. 1 point
    Thanks for all the answers! The C-160 is back together again and happy with the turn out. Sorry if the post has been confusing. Its hard explaining things sometimes. I ended up using the original keyway in the axle. The tolerance was only a few thousands off so red Loctite did the job for me. Also, used some Loctite on the hub itself. It will have to be heated to remove but I hope I don't have to for a long time. Apparently , the nicest of the two keyways was the one machined by the previous owner. However, it was machined to close to the axle end and was useless as far as getting the set screw tightened down on it without the hub hanging off the axle. So all this work that the previous owner did was useless. As said earlier, not sure if they put much thought into it but sure put a lot of work into it. I also put a double seal on the axle , in hopes to be sure it wont leak again with the hub being Loctite down. Kyle
  25. 1 point
    @857 horse, There ARE Horses for sale in Virginia! You gotta be quick and have cash. Picked up a near mint 1972 Charger 10 auto with a deck and blower Monday. Solid searching and quick response get some pretty good results.
  26. 1 point
    I thought about using my chipper. Just tow it behind a wagon load of manure. Then bribe the Wifey to ride the wagon and shovel it in the chipper.
  27. 1 point
    I did a short capture of the stator pulses and the charge pulses coming from the RR unit I repaired. The upper 'scope trace (orange) shows the stator AC into the regulator. The lower trace (white) indicates the battery voltage and the charge pulses the regulator "lets thru" to charge the battery. In the first 40+ seconds, few pulses are seen in the lower trace as the battery is fully charged. At 43 seconds, I placed a drain on the battery and the lower trace fills up with charge pulses. As the battery charges back to 14 volts, the pulses become fewer in number until they virtually disappear when the battery voltage reaches full charge. In this case, I have re-calibrated the RR unit for summer use by lowering the set point to 13.8 volts instead of the previous 14.5 v set point. My theory is the battery will last longer when not subjected to aggressive charging in hot weather. I usually have 2 - 3 hour seat time per cutting session and 13.8 volts to the battery is plenty to maintain proper charge in the summer. In the winter, I will switch over to 15.5 volts to compensate for the shorter use sessions in colder weather. Enjoy
  28. 1 point
    Quick calculations show we may need to put between 20 - 30 ohms of resistance in series with the voltmeter gauge leads. Essentially we are asking the added resistor to drop approximately 3 volts outside the meter. The meter indication SHOULD drop by 3 volts and be in agreement with actual battery voltage. I'm not sure what Radio Shack carries anymore as far as resistors. I have all the values you may need and can send them to you in the post. PM me with your address if you would like to pursue the recalibration of the gauge. It might be worth a shot. I have never seen one that far off. The gauge may be damaged and ultimately may need to be replaced.
  29. 1 point
    Your VAC is fine, No need to troubleshoot that aspect any further. The RR unit converts AC from the stator to pulsating DC to charge the battery. The RR "chops off" half the VAC.In your case, 38 VAC gets cut into just the positive half of 38 VAC or 19 VDC pulsating DC. Bottom line, if your VAC was too low, you would never have enough VAC to be chopped in half to create and regulate to 14.5 VDC. The RR allows the 19 VDC pulses to pass into battery until the RR senses VDC at the battery to be at the set point - or around 14.5 VDC. When the battery VDC reaches the set point of the RR - the charging pulses are stopped.
  30. 1 point
    30 x 60 condensate pan fits pretty good! Got it up off the floor this afternoon, Suppertime comin' then head off to Lodge for a meeting. Will give her a quick look over later this evening. Trying to figure out where I can take everything to be sandblasted, one more cabinet I just never had room for... Enjoy the new pics
  31. 1 point
    That would have been an awesome deal! Here's what we've been dealing with on our CL around here lately: Yep, they are asking $2600 for an unknown wheel horse with no hood that "runs and Mowes perfect"
  32. 1 point
    What I don't get is how the calibration gets off. I've put about 30 hours on the 520H and it seemed to be accurate. As far as the voltage reading. I took the gauge out. This morning, I also tested the VAC on the 520H at 3/4 throttle. It read 35.9 I also tested my truck. Not running it was 12.3 volts. running, it was 14.8 volts. I did not test the VAC on the truck, because the alternator was hard to get at.
  33. 1 point
    I till with 8hp This is a case where teh 8 spd tranny is better than hydros. Put her in low low and till away.
  34. 1 point
    Is the voltmeter a Toro labelled gauge? I thought they only go to 16 volts? If the gauge is worth saving, and is functional but just out of calibration, "recalibration" of the gauge is possible by adding common resistors in line with the gauge's sense terminal.. The resistor steals power from the gauge mechanism, making it read a lower value. I did had an older thread on RS about doing the recal but darned if I can find it now. I was successful in recalibrating the meter reading to agree with the 14 volts produced by the RR unit. From that cal point, the gauge was no more than 1/4 volt off at the 15 volt "overcharge" point and the 10 volt "battery dead" meter indication.
  35. 1 point
    also - check the on tractor voltmeter reading without the engine running. The reading should be close to the 12.8 volts seen by your multimeter. If it reads 14 -15 volts, then the pointer is off in the mechanics of the gauge.
  36. 1 point
    Concerning the starter re-engaging, there appears to be an issue with the wiring harness. Visually inspect the harness near the ignition switch. Somehow, the starter BLUE wire is being powered on at the wrong time. Flexing the harness repositioned either the wiring or the connections in the starter circuit. Inspect the TAN wiring at the back of the ignition switch and along its run thru the wiring harness down to the safety relays.
  37. 1 point
    Start another thread in the ENGINES section so you get the most eyes on your new (most likely) mechanical issue. You may need to pull the starter and dry lube the "bendix" assy. If the starter is re-engaging as the engine is running, we would then have another electrical issue. If the small blue wire going to the starter motor suddenly gets 12 volts on it and engages the bendix, then that would be an electrical issue, possibly a bad ignition switch. I would address the starter issue before continuing on with the overcharge issue. Your AC from the stator is good. Recheck the DC VOLTS DIRECTLY ACROSS THE BATTERY TERMINALS with the engine off and then again with the engine running 3/4 throttle Ignore the tractor voltmeter for the moment and see what the multimeter reads at the battery terminals at 3/4 throttle.
  38. 1 point
    from your image the position for volts AC and DC that manual leaves much to be desired if you are new to multimeter use. there are many good "how to use a multimeter" videos on youtube good luck
  39. 1 point
    The AC reading from the stator should be made with the selector switch pointing toward 200 V~ ironically, 180 degrees opposite of where it is in the image above. You may also want to paint the scribe line on the selector switch to make it more obvious the function the selector is pointing toward. With the selector in the V~ (AC) position. meter should show greater than 32 Volts AC at full engine throttle.
  40. 1 point
    Battery voltage appears fine. You are probably making the AC reading incorrectly. To measure AC stator voltage, multimeter should be set on the AC function and one lead placed on one AC terminal of the reg and the other meter lead placed on the second AC terminal of the reg. You appear to be using the 12v ground as reference ground forthe AC measurements.
  41. 1 point
    Normal wear and tear, but nothing serious at this point, just determining the best way to replace/rebuild/refit the front sprockets, and keeping notes.
  42. 1 point
    I would pay $500 for any well maintained 50 year old Wheel Horse tractor any day before I'd pay more than twice that much for the new crap they sell at the big box stores today. I'd say you got a darn good deal.
  43. 1 point
    Done and done. A 30 Hz calibrator from nearly the same components needed to build the tach circuit. If need be, I can mail this out to you, you can calibrate your tach (or compare this to your own tach calibrator) and then you can forward it on to the next person to use.
  44. 1 point
    Wire up a small 12 volt transformer with a "clipper circuit" on the secondary windings. If you construct a simple 5 volt power supply off the same secondary windings, you can power a flip flop to cut the 60 Hz line frequency into 30Hz - perfect for an accurate 3600 RPM cal standard. A second flip flop in series would yield 15Hz to use as a check for 1800 RPM idle speed on the engine. Be extremely cautious building and working with any device connected directly to the 120 VAC mains in your home.
  45. 1 point
    This depends on a few factors. The most significant factor is the mechanical "liveliness" of the meter movement itself. Some meters are quick to respond and overshoot their target (under-dampened) and some are sluggish and slowly crawl up to their final position (over-dampened). And some hit the Goldilock's spot - just right. If you have a slow. over-dampened meter, there is not much that can be done electronically to liven it up. A lively meter movement can be tamed by placing a capacitor across its input terminals. This will slow down the meter movement somewhat but still provide an accurate reading when the pointer does come to rest.. This is the method I have chosen in the schematic above. The 100ufd capacitor across the meter movement removes any jumpiness of the meter movement at very slow RPM's. This particular circuit can read down to the 500 - 600 RPM range without becoming too jumpy or having the meter movement "pump".. This feature is very helpful to confirm good cranking speeds with reasonable accuracy. Remember, at 500 RPM on a 1 cylinder engine, the points are only opening and closing less than 5 times per second. Take your finger and wag it 5 times per second - back and forth. This is what an analog meter pointer would do if it were not for the 100 ufd capacitor across the meter leads.
  46. 1 point
    Remember, I used a Simpson 260 meter on the 50uA current scale for the initial testing. The readout meter can be any analog meter with a 50uA current scale. The other option is to build the circuit, place it in a small case with leads that plug into an analog meter. Set your meter to the 50uA scale and read the RPM off the handheld meter. This is an inexpensive analog (~15$ off eBay) using the 50uA current range and reading off the 0 - 50 scale.
  47. 1 point
    shhhhhh! I'm surprised no one has asked for Bluetooth to an IPhone app yet.
  48. 1 point
    It shouldn't be too hard to find a 520 with a wasted motor!!
  49. 1 point
    Best of luck to you in the future. Though some may disagree, there are bigger things in life than Wheel Horses. Follow your dreams and stop back to visit us once in a while.
  50. 1 point
    Hey Cre, good luck with the move. I was born and raised in Freehold. You've probably seen Strickland Road on 9, that road is named after my family. I was up there a few times in the past few months, went to lunch with Glenn (Jerseyhawg) the first time. If I knew you were 10 minutes down the road we could have gone out to Jersey Freeze or Federici's!
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