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PTO all hooked up. Rear lift assembly installed. Muffler and heat shields installed. Welch plug for camshaft replaced. Proper dash installed. New battery tray installed then installed battery. Cleat

We had about six inches over night in Franklin N.C. Got a little seat time in this morning. It probably will have melted away by tomorrow, but with a steep driveway like ours you can't count on that; could be a sheet of ice!

It snowed again last night. We got 5 1/2 inches. Here are some pics from today. Oh the fun you can have with your family and a Wheel Horse!

I ended up getting it for 450 dollars!

thanks steve, i'll ask him if he still has the blue prints and if i can throw them on here

Just ordered a blast cabinet from Harbor Freight.....Now I have to get a BIGGER air compressor. Used my wife's debit card!! It's for my birthday.......shhhh

so i shot a couple pictures of my horse there ya go

Hello,I picked this up with 19richie66.It is a future restoration. It has a stamped frame which I believe is a 56.

Getting a little closer, engine is now complete other than oil drain and air cleaner, still have to paint the air cleaner, and pick up some screws for the carb elbow. I'm going to run the oil drain off to the side of the frame, its probably not original, but don't want to make a big mess on the frame when changing the oil. Also got the rear lift, and steering together and working good. exaust was painted with rustoleum high temp paint, have had good luck with this on several tractors.

What a Pud! Just rub some dirt in it, that's what a U.S. guy would do!

Mike, I have attached a page from the 5xi transmission service manual. Following the first paragraph there is a Note concerning noise from the lift valve on non-power steering units. I have 522xi which has power steering, and the lift is not very noisy. It looks like you are in a cold climate, which may also cause the hydro to be noisy. I always run Mobil 1 10W-30 in the hydro. Do you know what is in your hydro and when was the last time the hydro filter was changed. Have you checked the oil level in the hydro? At 400 hours, you shouldn't really be having valve problems, or hydro for that matter. Also note that the last paragraph on the page makes reference to running at full throttle. Are you at WOT when you get the noise. I'm sure some of the other 520 and 518xi owners will chime in and make reference to how noisy their lift valves are. Rick Trans.pdf

Scotty,,,,,,dont you feel like a thief stealing that beauty? I wouldnt..........lol. best of luck. Glenn

I think you forgot tot mention you LOVE the shed

here's some pics of the green machine and a round hood and now some of the round hood, this one wouldn't start today so we pulled it with the horse till it started

Very nice RJ35... its a double edge sword on the resto vs leave it alone IMO... restored RJ35s are nice but forget using it... all it does is spit grease and oil everywhere... at least in original condition the paint is already worn so a little more grease or oil doesn't matter.

On the up side, you type really well with just one thumb!

Nice pics! Looks like a fun day for all. I used my C-101 to clear my drive yesterday (and my neighbors) in Chesterfield, VA. We had about 8"-9".

Hi fellow Wheelers I just completed the fabrication of a Three Point Hitch for my 70"s GT14. Parts List include: 1. Used Wheel horse Rear Axle Bracket to which I added two Class One Hitch Pins with a steel bar welded across (bar was from an old shaft from a bad shock absorber) 2. Lower lift and Center lift bars and center lift arm (purchase from e-bay for $150) Note: One side was adjustable and the other solid, I changed the solid one so that is also adjust so that I could obviously adjust it and also make it fit better by removing a section and welding-in two threaded bolts 3. A twenty inch Class One tow bar from Tractor Supply for $139 Think you'll agree it came-out pretty good. Comments or suggestion appreciated As a side note might someone know what the rear pulley on the GT14 is for..... I assume perhaps the rototiller... but it looks so flimsy for that? Thanks

Sorry it took so long. Had other things going on. I really enjoyed the Flywheeler event. Richie, his wife, and Mike are a really great bunch. I have been planning on going to this for a few years, but now that I'm retired I actually have time to do it. It was well worth my 975 mile round trip. I picked up a nice 702 that I have been wanting for a while. After checking it out there is a lot of fresh red paint on everything which is usually not a good sign. However, I found everything to be in good shape and it runs and rides well. The throttle cable to the governor is not right, I think (see bottom pictures). If anyone has pictures of the right way it goes I would like some see them. Chris From Florida

As Mike (sorekiwi) said if you do the swap make sure you get the axles in the right side of the 10 pinion differential as they are different length's...you can see the offset in the 10-pinios differential end caps...and make sure you use the corresponding axle gears as the axle gears a different between the 2 differentials also...Easy swap just make sure you have everything in the right spots before final assembly...hate to see a short axle in the wrong side...3" sticking out one side and 1" on the other...Been there done it...

I went the other way on one of my tractors, from a 10 pinion to an 8 pinion. I need to think a bit about it, but I am thinking that I had to swap an axle too, I am thinking the 10 pinion used different lengths?? The problem with the 10 pinion diffs now ( 50 years after they were produced!!) is that the spring clip thingy in the middle wears out, and it is NLA from Toro. That severely reduces the locking ability of the diff. The one in my 1267 still locks up, but the other two that I have owned have lost their traction ability. My belief is the best traction is the spider gear diff, but it is also the weakest of the Wheel Horse differentials, and I have blown up all the ones I have had.

Yup. I was one of the callers. I was really curious on how well the cab fit as I'm looking for one for a C-160

Spending time with my little man plowing snow on the C-105. We got 7" in Cartersville, Va.

i see you added some wheel weights to your c, looks like you all had fun

Nice find! Auto or 8 speed? Mike........

X-2 ^

so glad others are getting some snow too

I like it.Especially for the price.Gotta put some duct tape or spray paint over those New Holland insignia.Have fun with your new toy. 12 horse Kohler,I presume??

Welcome to the forum! The same thing happened to me, with the same tractor, and it was the reason I joined here! When you remove the gear lever, MAKE SURE the collar that is on the gear shift comes with it, the roll pin that keeps the collar to the shifter may be sheared, and the gear lever has moved on the collar, which is why you cannot get it out of reverse(if this happens, the shifter cannot reach those square pieces that determine what gear you are in). When I did this, the collar dropped inside the transmission and I had to split the transmission to get it out, so just be careful!

New tires mounted. Rear wheels bolted on. Front wheels bearings greased and installed. Cleat

Man, I REALLY like that shed, even better knowing it's only a few years old, somebody did a really nice job designing and building that thing. Oh, and nice tractors too! Did I mention I LOVE that shed?

Looks nice but too rich for my blood.

hi, Jake, nice work! if I ever restore my rj like this, it will be parked in the living room, never see sun again!! what kind of plating or coating did you use on all that hardware? and where do you get it done? it really looks good! thanks - newt

I use the heads off of my still as carb cleaner, (spirit distillation). Works very well.

it looks classic, it wasn't there 4 years ago

Rustoldjunk is mostly correct until a customer factory ordered one and see's a Wheelhorse options list for each model. Then things sort of weird out on some models...lol As stated my 8sp 76 B-100 had the 23/8.50 AG tractor tires and headlights options like the C-120. The stickers & 10hp vs 12hp was the only difference. Seems parts availability as one went down the assembly line changed some into higher/lower graded models too since most parts easly interchanged. Why some report having 1" axle vs 1 1/8" axles, larger wheels ect.. on the same models when they're compared. This goes for all models from what I read. Didnt stop or switch over that assembly line to wait for parts unless they just had too. Best thing to do is get the parts manual for the model you have. Use the numbers from the metal tag on the tractor not just its stickers. Parts manuals can be found cheap on Ebay if a member here dont have one?

I got my mounting bar made tonight I went the simple route and just used a 2" × 30" piece of 1/4 " steel and broke it on the break press at work I think it will hold up fine I also noticed that I probably could hang a couple of these weights from a rear hitch if I wanted to add sum weight to the back of the horse

Got some parts back today, can finally start putting it together a little more.

Nope, old is when the grandkids have to drive you to the Outer Banks.

I hope you heal fast with little pain. We all make mistakes in judgement from time to time. Don't beat yourself up. Be glad it's still there and climb back in the saddle with renewed respect and focus.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klVkBFWvA3M

Not yet, can't see any obvious cracks, bolts appear tight, but I think you have nailed it. Will have to take the seat and pan off, it must be flexing up top somewhere. I had to use it for a while on Sunday, got really bad - lost almost all forward drive. Stopped, still wouldn't go all the way forward. Got off, instant full travel. Back on, reversing alongside shed, mower caught on footing, jerked tractor - instant full forward drive so there is definitely something moving around underneath. Will not be using it again until I work it out, going away this weekend so may not have time to pull down but will post my findings. thanks again, I am much happier knowing it isn't a transmission problem, don't have any problems with welding or fabrication if that is necessary.

We have a high end cub at work (They used to have a 520 with the 2 stage blower but now I have it ) and after 3 years it is now on it's second blower because the first one got so bent and twisted that we just replaced it. Blower is made of really light gage metal, seat pan and hinge assembly is plastic and has broken twice. Machine is shaft drive and where shaft connects to engine flywheel is a plastic coupler that has literally exploded. I can go on about how corners were cut on this machine. Unit was purchased from a Cub dealer for over $12,000.00 with blower, wheel weights, and chains. Plusses are hydro drive, shaft drive (supposedly), power steering, engine runs smoothly. I do not expect this machine to be around in 20 years. Cleat

Proof positive, Lars does bleed Wheelhorse.

Those little 4 horse Kohlers just seem so innocent. I had one upside down on me a few years ago no fun and they will run that way till someone grounds the points. Sure glad your OK. They are sure little monsters at times.

The A series were lawn tractors. The B-80 came with a shorter frame in 1974 and 1975, and had a 4 speed transmission with 1" axles. So I guess it was "lighter". But in 1976 and 1977 they had the longer frame and the 1-1/8" axles. The B-100 had the shorter frame in 1974 and 1975. In 1976 and 1977 both the B-80, B-100, C-120 and C-160 all were longer frames. The C-120 and C-160 were more powerful only because of the bigger engines, but the C-100 only had a 10HP. Now to make it more complicated, the B-60 with it's 7hp engine and non-electric start, also had the longer frame and 1-1/8" axles. So I guess the answer is not exactly true. Take a 1977 B-80 or B-100, replace the engine with a K301 or K341, add head lights and tail lights, replace the decals, and you have a C-120 or C-160.

I always thought the B was slightly smaller than lighter than the C.. My interpretation, might or might not be correct: A series was the small light-duty lawn tractor/mower. B series was the smallest "true garden tractor" in the lineup. C series was a slightly larger, heavier and more powerful tractor than the B. D series of course being the biggest and baddest.. true? not true? Scot